Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

gator72 · August 2001

I have an '01, QC, SLT+, 4.7, T&H.

You know the little round button on the dash with the snow flake in it? {controls the A/C}

Well, for about a week, mine flashes on and off by itself when travelling at highway speeds (75~80 mph). Does OK around town.

While I was at the Dodge dealer today (see post above), I mentioned it to him.

Dealer calls back this afternoon and tells me it is a defective A/C Controller Head Unit. He put it on order and will be in next week. I'll keep you posted.

Anyone have any thoughts on this.

GATOR72

FYI: Just for the record, I love my QC. I wouldn't trade it for anything else.

ayrow · August 2001

Gator,

I had the same problem with my AC light. The reason that it was happening was because I had the sunroof cracked open while I was using the AC. What happened was the vacuum from the outside air pulled enough to cause the intake flap for the climate control to shut (fyi, flap is located under dash above passenger feet). Only happened when I was moving fast, like on the interstate.

As a result, the AC would turn off and on depending on the speed I was traveling.

The same thing could happen if there was a window that was cracked open I suppose.

Just a thought for you to ponder.

Ayrow

http://www.ayrow.com/truck.html

mtrialsm · August 2001

I have 5000 miles on my Dakota quad, 3.55LSR
I get 16 average. The best I've gotten
on a trip was 17. I hope to get at least
19 when I get more miles on the quad.
I'm using sythetic 5w-30 oil.
I doubt that anyone gets over 19 hwy with
a 4.7 auto or stick.
mm

rjay · August 2001

I'm in the market for a Quad, 4x4 SLT-plus, leather, 4.7.

Can anyone tell me what you're paying compared to invoice for a 2001???

I understand that the dealers are offering $2000 back on 2001's and $1000 back on a 2002 order.

Thanks for any info.

mtrialsm · August 2001

I order my quad and received it back in Mar.
Made the deal at $100.00 over invoice.
Was lucky that I got $2000.00 rebate and $500.00
farm bureau rebate.
We have two Dodge dealers in Macon/Warner Robins,
Ga. area. Both dealers offered the same deal.
Dealer in Perry,Ga. wouldn't go less than $800.00
over,,,,dumb. I made the deal in WR because
of convenance.

bobs5 · August 2001

When I ordered the truck it was for $400 over invoice. When the truck arrived the invoice increased in price from the order date. The dealer ate the increase and the final was about $160 over invoice. I also had the $1000 rebate so it was $840 below invoice. If I had the farm bureau discount it would have saved another $500.
Good luck,
Bob

slr9589 · August 2001

dear mtrialsm,
as i posted earlier my 4.7/5 spd is doing 20 with no problem...it appeared to improve after 25k.
will have a 2,000 mile trip soon and will update performance then.
slr9589

ayrow · August 2001

Hi everybody,

As many of you know, I have done a few unique modifications to my QC. I have received a lot of questions on things like my sunroof and the bedliner and I always appreciate the compliments and input.

I put some more pictures up with the new things I have added to my truck so you guys can check them out.

One of the things added is a front brushguard. I can't decide if I like it or not and thought I would ask for your opinion on the matter. Please let me know what you think.

You can find pics of the brush guard here:

http://www.ayrow.com/brushguard.html

All of the other mods are here:

http://www.ayrow.com/truck.html

Thanks,

Ayrow

gtownguy · August 2001

One thing I could never understand on this board is why when someone asks of price everything is related to "invoice price" or "over invoice price". Beleive me, whatever the invoice price you think is or have been told/shown is not the price the dealer pays. Now, isn't that what we want to know when we buy a vehicle. Personally I refuse to look at a so-called invoice as the "market price" means more to me to formulate a fair price. The only true way is to know what others are paying in actual cash. That is without a trade-in, because there is much leeway when a trade is added into the equation. Most dealers "win" trades for a favorable price. This is why most salespeople who work for dealers usually drive a traded in car (sorry-another story). So to get back to RJAY 's original question; It depends on what part of the country you live in as the local economys vary. I live in the Northeast and paid $22k even, for a 2001 4x4 QC,sport, with 4.7,auto, pwrconv.,A/C, tire/handling pkg,fogs,flr mats,.Everything else pretty much standard. Good luck RJAY. Hope this helps. And to anyone else- please let me know why no one talks price here??
Thanks, sorry for the long winded message,
Tom.

ferous · August 2001

Invoice is the simplest term to equal out the possible differences in options between trucks. In Jan 2000, I went to my local Dodge dealer and told them I had done my homework (Edmunds)and they told me I could get what ever I wanted for invoice. I agreed and handed them a print out with all the option codes I wanted. Twenty minutes later I was out the door with a copy of the paper work on the Quad I just ordered. Eight weeks later I spent another 45 minutes completing the paper work and I drove my new Quad home. How simple this purchase was.

slickwilliedj · August 2001

had truck into dealer last week for this issue among others.fyi 01/qc7000k 2wd sport plus 3.55lsd 4.7 auto t& pkg,tow grp etc.. truck leans to the left and right rear seems higher dealer had already replaced left front spring/shock assem but didnot correct prob thus were looking at the next possible cause the rear leaf springs turns out according the foreman at the dealer there are several heights avail for the leaf springs. the last number in the part number indicates the height in 1/2 increaments...... also had the popping/snapping sound in the front end while turning and braking looked into. dealer performed the tsb thats out on it. however noise still is there! new leaf springs are on order will adv noise is still there wheni return for springs to be installed later. dealer also did the seat belt recall( retorqued the seat belt anchors)....

mtrialsm · August 2001

In March received my 2001 Quad (6weeks delivery)
Quad Cab/2wd/4.7/auto/slt-plus/26G/two-tone/
anti-spin axle/fog lights/leather wheel/heavy duty
group/radio,cd,cass,equal/
$100 over invoice + $179.00 dealer fees + 6% tax.
$21 title/tag fee.
minus $2000 Dodge rebate
minus $500 Farm rebate.
Drive out price $22503.00

I think I got a good deal, when I ordered my truck
the rebate was only $1000, then was $2000 when it
came in!!!!

bobs5 · August 2001

That brushguard look great.
The only thing I find concernable is the lower horizontal bar blocks the license plate. I bet my local police would have objections to this. Which brand of brushguard is it?

Looking at the latest pictures, What happened to the front tow hooks? Did they have to be removed to accommindate the brushguard? Perhaps the picture doesn't show them clearly.

Good luck,
Bob

slr9589 · August 2001

I was setting the back seat of my QC for the dog today prior to my journey south.I happenned to look forward to the area under the front seat when i noticed a chrome plated cylindrically shaped object covering the rear bolt for the front seat.
There to my surprise was a shiny Snap On socket. I've had the truck 18 months and i guess this was the first time i saw things from that perspective.could one of DC's finest fallen asleep?Or was he/she/it to busy to care?!!!
i guess i'll keep it as a momento and pray nothing else got missed!
slr9589

ayrow · August 2001

Anyone know where the best place to get bedrail caps is? Also, what are the best kind to get? I have been tearing the heck out of my bare rails from hauling lumber, etc...

Thanks for the compliment Bob.

As far as the license plate, I have had no complaints as of yet from our wonderful law-enforcement. Not sure if they will give me a hard time or not.

As far as the Tow hooks are concerned, I took them off not knowing whether or not I really needed to. Turns out, I didn't need to remove them. I just have not had a chance to put them back on since I have been so busy working on the new house.

I'll get them on soon, however, since I need to tear down a fence and some bushes.

Ayrow

gtownguy · August 2001

I have the Bushwacker bed rail caps, cost about $65.00 and stick on with foam tape (provided). They come in black plastic, but can be painted. They have a diamond plate finish. I like them fine, except I have the plastic bedliner tailgate cover that covers the top tailgate rail. I recommend the optional bushwacker tailgate rail cap as well, to make it all match. I'm thinking of cutting my tailgate cover to make it fit.
Hope this helps.
Tom.

jebsdaddy · August 2001

I bought bed caps and tailgate cap from a company called "Wade" products. You can find them on the internet. They have double sided 3-m tape and have a factory look to them.

jebsdaddy · August 2001

This is for anyone that is going to buy from dealer stock or order a new Dakota. I highly recommend the optional 3.92 axle ratio. I have a 4wd quad cab with the 4.7 liter engine and a 5 spd. man. The truck has great pickup at the lights. The over-drive gear in 5th keeps revs low on the highway for about the same mileage as the stock axle ratio. I have the large tire package so at 60 mph, the tach is reading 1900 rpm. This gives the best of both worlds: good acceleration, more towing and the same mileage. Go with the limited slip too!

ferous · August 2001

The comments from above are based on 3.92 with the LARGER tires. I have the 4.7 5spd with 3.55 rear end and there is no way I would go with a 3.92 ratio. I have the standard P215-75-15 tires which are a lot smaller than what "jebsdaddy" has. At 60 MPH I'm turning around 1950 RPMs. Can you fathom what RPMs I would be turning with the small tires and the 3.92 rear end???

rockymtn4x4 · August 2001

I am having trouble locating the plug for the engine block heater. Hopefully it is hiding rather than not being installed. Any hints to where I should be looking would be appreciated.

Rich

bpeebles · August 2001

(rockymtn4x4) The "plug" for the engine block heater is actually a "freeze plug" that is press-fit into ALL engine blocks. The intent of the "freeze plugs" is to pop out and save the block from cracking if the antifreeze actually does freeze.

Assuming that you are are inquiring about the 4.7L V8 HEMI engine. The proper freeze plug to remove to make room for the block heater is the one all the way towards the firewall on the passenger side. It is easily seen while looking behind the front-passenger tire at the engine block. (ACTUALLY LOOK OVER THE TIRE INTO THE WHEELWELL OPENING! Stick your head in there if you have to. Somtimes turing the steering all the way to one side first helps.)

If you are actually asking about the 120vac (household current) "plug" that you hook your 10-gauge extension cord to.... Just follow the wire coming out of the freeze plug area I pointed out above. This wire is typically laid along the top of the framerail just behind the front-passenger tire and terminates (has a 3-prong plug) up near the radiator. It is usually stuffed behind something (like the bumper) to protect it from the weather when not in use. (There is also a rubber "sheath" on the 3-prong plug to protect it)

If you DO NOT have a wire connected to the above-mentioned freeze-plug hole.... then you DO NOT have a block heater installed.

saskquad · August 2001

On my 2001 4.7L 4x2 the plug is right beside ( Inside edge) the passenger side headlight assembly . It can be seen easily with the hood open.

skylerk · August 2001

ferous, 1950*3.92/3.55=2153, so the 3.92 ratio would only bump your 60mph RPM up by 200 RPM to 2150 RPM.

I ordered my QC with the 3.55 for "better mileage", but now we are planning to upgrade our pop-up trailer to a regular travel trailer and I am really regretting that I didn't get the 3.92 which has an extra 1200 lbs of towing capacity. It would have been a $40 option when I ordered, now it's gonna cost me $850 to switch. ($675 if I use aftermarket gears, but the shop says they may be a bit noiser than OEM 3.92 gears.)

mk39 · September 2001

I have a 2001 QC 4.7l 5 spd with 3.92 axle and "small" tires. Plenty of power, and fun to drive. The tach is right around 2000 at 60mph and we're averaging 18.5mpg with mixed driving. Have found that interstate driving (over 60mph) pulls the average down significantly, but absolutely love this truck and am very pleased by the mileage to date - and with 5000 miles, I'm still looking for improvement.

Now for the question - one very minor "challenge" - every time I go over a bump, or even release the emergency brake, the ash tray pops down. Not a big problem, more of an annoyance but I'd like info anyone has on adjusting whatever the mechanism is that is supposed to keep this thing shut.

Thanks again for such an informative forum!

bobs5 · September 2001

I ordered the truck with the block heater, and the plug hangs on the passenger side of of the truck in the front; have not used it yet.
Axle ratio...I regret not getting the 3.92 ratio with the larger tires in the T&H package. I have the 3.55 ratio currently, and on the highway, I wish the RPM were at bit higher at highway speeds. It seems to lug a bit at times. Don't take me wrong, this truck hauls as is. It could use more RPM'S on a STEEP grade, but pulls great anyway.
The higher ratio axle will burn more gas on the everyday commute.
It is up to you as what fits your needs!
Good luck,
Bob

victx · September 2001

I've got a '01 QC 4.7 5spd with the 3.55. I've upgraded to 32" tires. The truck has lots of power, but at 50-60mph I don't get much passing power. There are occasions where I wish I had ordered the 3.92, but then I downshift and forget about it.

bgbdquadcb · September 2001

About 3 weeks ago a stumbeled upon a group buy for leather interior for our quad cabs, I took a chance and got in on it! I wasnt sure if I had made a wise choice. But the guy who organized the buy really knewe what he was talking about so I gave it a try.

After some decision as to colors, option, etc I ordered, about 10 days later the leather came, when I opened that box...WOW!!! I have to say, I feel sorry for the guys who paid to get leather from the factory, this stuff is incredable, soft, and very well made.

I chose dark graphite to match my door panels and dash (matches perfectly). I got bone color centers two-tone and the rams head logo with shield stitched in the headrest in dark graphite thread. It took me about 6.5 hours to install and it looks great!

It also came with a 3yr/36,000 mile warrenty (peace of mind).

Anyway..just wanted to thank the guy who organized the group buy. I asked if any of my buddies could still get this kit at the same price if they wanted to, and he said as long as they mention edmunds they should be able to get the discount. He told me that if anyone else is interested just to have them email him directly, his email address is:

KatzkinLeather@aol.com

Just keeping you informed
JJJJJJFOX@AOL.COM

rjay · September 2001

I am about to order a new quad cab and not sure about full time AWD. I assume that full time AWD means worse gas mileage and perhaps more repair expense down the road. Therefore, I'm leaning toward part time 4wd (it's also cheaper)

Anyone have any input?

I won't be towing much, but do live in the mountain (9000ft) so there's a lot of winter driving.

Thanks for any input!

drdakota · September 2001

I have an 01 QC with AWD (or full-time 4WD depending on which definition one uses). So far I've had no problems with the AWD. The gas mileage appears to be about 10% to 15% lower than the part-time 4WD trucks, based on observations of other owners and reading this board. I do some towing and I do believe the AWD handles better with a load. (I had a part-time 4WD before) The AWD handles better without a load on the twisting mountain roads I often drive. However, If I had to do it over again, I would have purchased the part-time 4WD truck due to the mileage and acceleration that configuration gives. Both are great trucks however.

deckdog1 · September 2001

I looked at an 02 silver slt quad today on a dealers lot. It seems they have lumped together a new package for this year. All in one option package now is pwr. win and locks, tire & handling, cruise, fog lamps, wheel flares, and a few other goodies for a list cost of $2325. Overall it didn't seem that there was much of a price increase. Maybe a percent or two.

Rick

bobs5 · September 2001

All I can say is, look up the invoice prices on all the seperate options of this package and see if it makes a monetary sense. I got a 2001 model and picked the options which were useful to me.
It's up to you if this package is what you want.

Are you looking at a 4x4? If so, they have come with the flares as standard. I don't know what the 2002 specs are.

Be careful, and good luck with your purchase.

If you have read during this topic, the farm bureau discount is available for members of that association.

deckdog1 · September 2001

bobs5 - I guess I wasn't clear enough in my previous post. The quad was a 2wd and the options were all grouped together in an option package. This option package did include the wheel flares with the other items I mentioned as well as the radio/cd player. This particular truck had a cassette/cd player which added $100 to the cost. Only the radio/cd was included in this option package. Sorry for any confusion.

Rick

rjay · September 2001

I am about to order an 02 Quad Cab, 4.7, auto, whl pkg, and am deciding between the two axle ratios. I don't plan to haul or tow much, but I do live in the mountains (9000ft) and do a lot of mountain winter driving. I'm concerned about fuel economy but have read that there isn't much difference between the two (less than 1mpg) in that respect. I'm also considering the ltd slip diff. ANy input from this group is appreciated.

Thnaks

average_joe · September 2001

Hello,
I have a '01 QC 4.7 4x4, and recently when i get in stop and go traffic, (everyday in Los Angeles) my AC seems to loose all its power... It is still blowing, but very weakly, no matter how high I set it, and the air isn't all that cool. When I am driving normally, not in traffic, it works fine... I don't remember it doing this when I first got the truck back in march, but then i didn't run the AC all that much back then either. Is this a normal thing, or should i be taking it in to the dealer? Any help would be greatly appreciated...

slickwilliedj · September 2001

I have a 01 q/c sport plus, 2wd,auto 3.55 lsd T&H PKG etc.. the truck has about
a 1/2 lean in the left front end. the dealer has replaced the left front
spring/shock assem a few months ago however that didnot correct the problem.this past fri 8/31 dealer replaced both rear leaf springs and the left front end is still lower then the right. the dealer called d/c tech line and they adv them that the
tolarace for the industry is within 1/2 in from side to side. i don't know where
else to look any suggestions? dealer and I looked at others on the lot and they
seem to all sit the same way...what else could be causing this lean? does any body else have this same lean? ******** i also noticed while looking around under the front end that i have torn dust boot that cover the bushing on the upper control arm. when i did my first oil chg months ago i noticed it looked different from the right. sort of looked pinched or had a rib in the middle and was pushed in. anyways showed dealer and they will order new upper control arm assem instead of just a new boot. the bushings in this truck are nylon. is this good or bad?

slr9589 · September 2001

hey all,
just compleed an 1800 mile trip from boston to texas....pulled a loaded 8'u-haul trailer(1000 lb plus).had to downshift plenty on first half through mountains....but from tn.ssouthwest i was able to use cruise at 68mph....truck ran great...did see 11 hours of rain on day two.truck and trailr wanted to hydroplane once or twice.
Got 13 miles/gallon in hills.....and 15 miles/gallon on the coastal plain.
the a/c worked fine as did the defroster....
all for now,
slr

zidctlr · September 2001

Does any one know where all the grease fittings are located under the 2001 quad. Would like to make sure I lube the chassis when I change the oil.

mopar67 · September 2001

There are not grease fittings due to the permanenant sealed joints which are "lubed for life" during assembly.

gator72 · September 2001

A few weeks ago, something happened to this website that makes it difficult to access. If anyone has noticed, we've lost many of the "regulars". I'd wager that they can't find their way back here.

Before the change, I had Edmund's Quad Cab club programmed into my "Favorites" in MS Internet Explorer. One click and I was here.

Now, I have to go thru an Act of Congress to get to this part of Edmund's site.

IS THERE A QUICK WAY (LINK) TO GET TO THE QUAD CAB SECTION OF EDMUND'S SITE???

GATOR72

ayrow · September 2001

Ok, I am going to post this in a couple places in hopes that somebody out there knows the answer to this.

I bought a nice car alarm for my truck which should arrive any day.

It comes with a key fob that will take the place of my existing one and unlock and lock my existing automatic locks (no factory alarm).

Here are my questions..

1.) Does the 2001 QC have positive locks, or negative?

2.) Where is the best/easiest place to tap into these wires to activate them?

3.) What color are the wires?

Thank you guys! I hope somebody out there has the answer so I don't have to go wire-hunting for hours.

Ayrow

http://www.ayrow.com/truck.html

skylerk · September 2001

rjay, sorry about the slow response -- I just got back from a 5 day camping trip. Anyways, I recommend getting the 3.92 rear axle. It won't increase your cruising RPM more than about 200 or 250 RPM, and it won't decrease your MPG much, but it will add 1200 lbs to your towing capacity (you never know when you might need it). I goofed and ordered my Dakota with the 3.55 rear axle last year. This year we decided to start shopping for a travel trailer, and the 3.55 is really hampering our selection, so I'm looking at an $850 bill to change my 3.55 axle to 3.92 to comfortably tow the trailer we're interested in.

Bottom line: If you have any doubt at all, I advise erring on the "safe" side and choosing the 3.92 rear axle. Get all the "heavy duty" and "tow package" options while you're at it.

tvay · September 2001

try this.../direct/view/.eea1a94

badassbob · September 2001

Before you start this, Let me share what i learned when i installed a complete alarm/motion-detector/proximity sensor/remotestart/truck-release into a 1999 TransAm.

(1)If your truck has the factory alarm do yourself a favor and send back the one you have and buy the MOPAR one out of the acc catalog which comes with harnesses that plug straight up with no cutting or tapping into wires required.

The OEM alarm interfaces are VERY difficult to bypass which you MUST do in order to keep the factory alarm from going off when you unlock and open the doors with the aftermarket keyfob.

(2) Contact the alarm manufacturer because some of them offer pre-made wiring T-Harnesses that make the aftermarket install just as easy as the MOPAR one... You just unplug the lock, interior light Harness(s) and away you go...

(3) If these are not available, I strongly suggest that you get a hold of the service manual(sometimes referred to the B.O.B. --Big Orange-Book here). I have one for a 2000 model and can look up and scan the wiring diagrams and email them to you. Just email me @ gchadsmith@cs.com if you want these

(4) If you plan on using the starter disable on the alarm, be ready to sever the starter wire under the steering column... This was probably the most nerve racking part of the install for me at least. This is another plus for the MOPAR one which includes this and plugs up with the supplied harnesses.

(5) Whatever amount of time you THINK it is going to ake you to do the install, DOUBLE it...

(6) Make you own wiring schematic BEFORE you start and make sure you know what you are looking for, and where its at before you start cutting and tapping... The computer modules are very sensitive and EASY to Fry.

I researched car alarms for 3 months before i undertook the TransAm project and accumulated ALOT of good material on the subject, so if i havent scared you out of doing it, email me @ gchadsmith@cs.com and ill dig it up, scan it, and email it to you...

BTW...I will be doing the same set up on my '00 dodge as i did with the TransAm minus the trunk release shortly

GOOD LUCK

Chad
Winston-Salem NC

enfurio · September 2001

Although this has been a terrible week, I needed to get the ball rolling on my new quad cab (2002 4.7L, 4X4, Sport plus package, Graphite metallic, Manual trans., all heavy duty stuff, 3:92 axle, and all the goodies). We closed the deal, but it was really bizzare standing in the dealership watching the carnage of this week's events. The '88 S-10 that I am driving right now has a finite number of days (perhaps hours) left, so I made the decision to get going. Plus, it got my mind off of current events and gave me resolve to push forward with normal life.

I would like to thank all the people that have contributed to this great forum (I've read over 3000 entries in the last few weeks). By this time, you all sound like old friends (except for a few nutjobs out there!) I had a lot of questions that were answered and then some by everyone here. The dealer, of course, was clueless when I asked about pro's and con's of rear end ratios, shift on the fly, posi (LSD), swaybars, etc. Although I basically knew what I wanted (no Amber Fire this year though, DAMN!) your comments helped in making the final decisions.

I am looking forward to receiving my new truck, but am glad it won't be ready for a few weeks. Hopefully, by then we will all be closer to coming out of this black cloud.

I do have a few questions that I would appreciate help with:

1 How long does it usually take to receive your vehicles when they are ordered through the dealership? (I live just outside of Detroit, dangerously close to the birthplace of all Quad cabs, DC Warren Truck)

2 There was talk of a "new vehicle checklist" that many people used when taking possession of their new trucks. What should I be looking for when I pick this vehicle up? (except for the obvious scratches, dents, etc.)

Thanks, and sorry about the long first message, It wont' happen that often.

skylerk · September 2001

1. How long does the order take? My custom order in October 2000 took 28 days from order placement to delivery at my dealer in Seattle, WA. Yours ought to be at least a week less since yours won't have to ride a train anywhere.

2. Here's a copy of my post #65 in the Dodge Dakota FAQ forum (ref skylerk "Dodge Dakota Owners - FAQs" Feb 25, 2001 1:38am):

Here's the link: http://dodgeram.org/buying_info/Inspect.htm

There are a few items on this list which are specific to Dodge Ram problems, but most of the list is pretty generic and works just fine for the Dodge Dakota too. Happy Inspecting!

livnlrn · September 2001

I was thinking of adding the front tow hooks as ayrow had done. Since he did not have any dimensions for me to cheat with I went to crawl under my truck to figure out the dimensions to make the steel plates myself. Well, wasn't I surprised when I found I did not have the openings for the tow hooks in my front valance. I looked in the picture gallery and it seems most of the trucks do. Any idea when they switched or if the 2001's have the openings. My truck was a late 2000 model. 4x4 w/towing ect...

namfflow · September 2001

I believe the change in the valance to include tow hook openings was a 2001 change. Of couse I don't understand why they put these holes there if they didn't include mounting holes for tow hooks. Oh well....

johnbigbootie · September 2001

I just installed a MOPAR "factory" EVS II alarm system from the acc catalog and found out the hard way that it is NOT a plug in system!
When you order this alarm it comes in two boxes, one containing the module, horn, motion sensor switch, Etc. and the other containing the wiring harness for your specific vehicle.
Not a single connection was a plug in to the vehicles wiring. The only plug ins were from the purchased harness to the alarm module, horn, indicator light, hidden switch and motion sensor.
Every connection to the vehicle involved cutting, splicing and soldering into the vehicles existing wiring. (Approximately eight different solder joints, two crimp joints). This involved unwrapping plenty of the harness tape, locating the proper wires by doing voltage checks and re-wrapping when your done.
Not a real technical job, but certainly not a "plug in" either.
Very nice system (with starter interlock) when the job is complete.

enfurio · September 2001

I'll show up to pick up my new truck with Vaseline in hand! (insert your own Bookitty type remark!)
Really, thanks. The new vehicle checklist will be very handy and I just love grilling greasy salesmen. (mmmmmm...) I'm not going to be too worried about the air filter seal though, I plan on installing a K&N system from Air raid or Intense performance after about 10K.

One thing I remember reading about was the "sludge" that people were finding on the oil filler caps or something. Do you remember what that discussion was about?

enfurio · September 2001

Has anyone out there installed the Hurst shifter yet? Brings back high school memories of doin' doughnuts in crappy old muscle cars.

http://www.mrgasket.com/hurstnew.htm#Anchor-QUICK-35882

I guess the throws are supposed to be less and, you know, its a HURST shifter. The stickers alone will cut 2 seconds off the 1/4 mile time.

Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

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