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Comments
There was a "improved" oil-fill cap and a "baffle" that fits inside the oil-fill tube that attempts to insulate and direct the water vapor that comes off of the oil so the PCV system can remove it.
Make no mistake... ALL ENGINES HAVE THIS, just the design of the 4.7L v8 hemi is more efficent at concentrating it on the inside of the oil-fill-tube than most other engines.
Has anyone put a good set of seatcovers on all four of the QC seats? The vehicle that I ordered has the cloth high back buckets in the front and I am considering the dealer seat covers all the way around. (assuming they would fit the best) I've seen those neoprene covers, but have no idea if they are any good.
Basically, just looking to protect all the fabric from mud, dogs, greasy mechanic friends, etc. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the info, you saved me a big headache by telling me this now...
Chad
WinstonSalem NC
'00 Quadcab SLT+ Garnet Red 4x4 (AWD) 5.9L 46RE 3.55 LSD. For list of modifications to my QC, see my profile:
http://www.twistedbits.net/WWWProfile/dakota/Vof5jrNb0pR1M/
For pictures of my QC & Accessories: http://www.geocities.com/txqc2000
Thanks!
Where did you get your seat covers from....my dealer says they don't have them in there accessory catalog for Dodge
I'm not able to get my hands on the 2001 accessories brochure I have @ home right now. But if you still have problems with your dealership, e-mail me and I'll reply with the part number for the covers and also my dealer's phone number in case you want to order it from them. It only took me 1 day to get.
1) determine the o.d. of the tire
for example: P265-70-R16 tire size
265mm divided by 25.4mm/inch = 10.433"
10.433" times 70% aspect ratio = 7.303"
(7.303 times 2) + 16" = 30.61" O.D.
note: the times 2 above is for the top plus the
bottom of the tire and the 16" is the wheel
dia.
The formula for rpm is:
rpm = (mph x tire rev/mile x axle r. x trans gear)
/ 60
tire rev/mile = (5280 x 12)/(pi x tire O.D.)
= 63,360 / (3.1416 x 30.61)
= 658.9 rev/mile
note: 5280=ft/mile; 12"/ft; pi x O.D. = cir.
Now to fill in the equation with my axle ratio = 3.92, the overdrive's manual 5th gear is 0.73 and my mph will be 60 mph. The 60 in the denominator is a constant.
rpm = (60mph x 658.9 x 3.92 x 0.73) / 60
= 1885
Hope this helps someone. As you can see, the tire size, axle ratio, trans-x ratio are all part of the equation.
KarenS "Dodge Dakota Owners: Events" Sep 24, 2001 8:16am
(If you read the door sticker carefully... it is NOT talking about the 31 inch tires.)
noise when turning?
Has any dealership corrected the noise?
mick
Brett
Thank-You for advice on seat covers I found them at another dealer
FYI: I have a 2001 QC SLT+, 4.7 V-8, auto., tire and handling package, security pack, Sentry Key system and Power Overhead Convenience Group.
The upshot is, after 4~5 trips to the dealer, they stopped the creaking/popping noises by replacing the bushings on the front torsion bars (ie. anti-sway bars). If you have torsion bars, this might be the fix. If you don't ... well ...
Be sure to see my next post about replacing the A/C "Control Head".
Best of Luck,
GATOR72
A while back, I noticed the A/C button light would blink on/off when driving highway speeds (70~75). When it blinked off, the A/C would blow warm air.
I never would have believed it, but my dealer was able to actually DUPLICATE the problem!!!
So, they ordered something called an A/C Control Head to fix the problem. It's the oblong component below the radio that contains the A/C fan controls and air-flow directional control knob.
Well, the part finally came in and the dealer installed it. Problem is, it blows even less air than the original. When the knob is put on the first setting, you can barely feel ANY air whatsover;
The new fan knob sometimes gets stuck when switching from off to the first fan speed. It feels like something is catching it; or, like it has made it to the 1st fan speed position (which it has not).
I'm debating on whether to take it BACK to the dealer to hear what they have to say about this. Problem is, it's a "minor" problem at this point. I'm afraid if the dealer keeps tinkering with it, it might make things worse!
Also, I work for a living and can't keep taking off time from work for this. I thought about waiting a while to see if the problem gets any worse.
ANY SUGGESTIONS???
GATOR72
Suprised no one has commented on it however I am sure many have read it.
service bulletin number: 1900900
talks about "popping sensation/sound felt
and heard in the steering column,,,,,,,"
I wonder what "they do about it"?
mick
That site was:
http://carrola.home.texas.net/dodge/dakotamain.html
The word is that the bulk of the power comes from different cams and other internal (Piston / con-rod) changes... Nothing I can do in my drivway standing in a snowbank.
I got my 2001 QC last March. I now have over 11,000 miles on it. (Thanks to a honeymoon trip to the Black Hills of South Dakota) I am averaging about 12 MPG in town, 17-18 MPG highway.
I love this truck. I have added a line-X bedliner and a roll-n-lock cover. I have been satisfied with both.
I have only had a couple problems. My check engine light come on just as I was headed out of town for the weekend. I made a quick trip to the dealer and they hooked up the computer. They took my gas cap off and put it back on and sent me on my way. I remember reading that in the manual but forgot to check.
While reading back through the messages I missed in the last few months I noticed several people have the same problem that I do with my truck wanting to stall on cold starts. I have taken my truck in twice for this and they have not fixed it. Once the changed my idle settings and the next time they told me Dodge was aware of the problem but had not came out with an update to fix it. However, reading the messages on the board it sounds like some of you have gotten this problem fixed. What do I need to tell my dealership to lead them in the right direction? Is there a certain PCM update number?
One last item. I know ayrow had gotten custom tow hook brackets made previously. However, I was just wondering if anyone had seen these on the market yet? If not, does ayrow have any dimension he could post or do I have to do my own dirty work? :-)
Thanks, and I hope to keep up to date on the board now.
A couple of interesting things I noticed on the 2002 QC SLT 4X4 quad cab I was drooling on in the showroom:
Hood insulator - NO
Full alloy spare - NO! just full size stamped steel one!
I am also told that if you order the HD towing package for 2002, synthetic fluid comes stock in the diff. I am going to get this in writing because I know it has been an issue in the past.
Does anybody know if there is a web site to track the build? I have the build number and I thought that there was a way to check on it without calling the dealer.
I also noticed on the Dodge website a couple other changes for 2002:
1) The 136 amp alternator is now standard. Use to come with the
HD service group. Price of the HD service group did not change
from 2001 to 2002.
2) Brake shift interlock now comes with the auto transmission -
Dodge finally gives in to the safety [non-permissible content removed].
In regards to the synthetic fluid in the differential, does that come with the HD service group or the towing package? Also, is it just the rear diff or front as well (in case of the 4x4s). Just curious.
Like you, I ordered my 2002 QC mid-September expecting a late October delivery. I don't have a build number yet. Maybe I'll bug my dealer next week.
That's all for now.
http://www.dakota-truck.net/order_status.html
be good,
slr9589
As far as the alternator goes, I am not sure if the 136 amp is standard. Maybe it is for the QC (ot tow pkg) because I recall seeing the small one listed while building Dakotas several times on the Dodge website and elsewhere. If you order the tow package, you automatically get the HD package, so you get the synth diff oil included in the rear (or so they say). There is no front differential (like on the rear) and I am not sure what kind of oil they put in the transfer case (there was a couple of postings where someone put synthetic oil in EVERYTHING, but I can't remember who).
I sure hope my truck gets here before the middle of Nov.; I live North of Detroit and the winter's here are savage. My old 4X4 S-10 is running off of sheer willpower and McGuyverin', so I am afraid to throw the 4X4 lever fearing a transfer case explosion.
Have you compared your dealer pricing vs. the Dodge website pricing vs. the Carsdirect.com pricing? At carsdirect.com it says about $25,000 for a loaded vehicle similar to mine.
Has anyone else used or bought their Dakota at an online site?
I didn't get the trailer towing package. I didn't feel like paying $275 for a hitch and wiring, especially since I have no current need. Also, a local truck accessory place will put on a hitch (from any manufacturer they carry) and wiring for $150.
I called my dealer today, but haven't heard back on an estimated arrival date. Since I'm in the process of refinancing my house, mid-Nov to end of Nov wouldn't bother me a whole lot right now.
We'll see how it goes.
This is why I decided that the HD servicegroup was WAAAYY to expensive for just a powersteering cooler.
Admittidtly, I am excited, but my farm bureau membership rebate won't take effect until the 26th and I don't have the down payment yet that I was planning on. I just hope they don't let everybody who is looking for a 5-speed manual test drive it. I will probably go and drool over a few times until a week & a half goes by when I can go pick it up. I did put down a deposit, so it will probably just sit quietly on their back lot.
Since I will be a Bona-fide OWNER soon, can anyone recommend a good website for aftermarket parts (weatherflectors, stone guards, bed extenders, Bosch plugs, etc.). I've been to J.C Whitney and several others, but I have no idea about promptness, quality or customer service.
All this talk recently about warping rotors has got me a little jumpy. If anyone has replaced the rotors and pads with high quality aftermarket parts can you comment on your choices and make reccomendations? I am not afraid to spend a couple of hundred dollars for good quality brakes (and neither should anyone else).
Thanks
When I asked the dealer what happens if brakes warp again, they said "we would probably not replace them again because its likely to be either your driving habits, or the roads you drive on (hills)" .
This kind of stuff really pisses me off. This is about my tenth new car/truck. Never had any problem with my driving habits warping brakes before. How can they just put the same junk back on and expect a different result? Sounds like a design problem, not a driver problem!
You shouldn't have to buy $3000 Brembo's to get brakes that can handle normal driving conditions!
ANd I agree with you. Thats why I filed a complaint with the NHTSA and sent Chrysler a rough letter lettting them know what I think.
Good luck.
Seems the ulitmate solution is Bendix or Raybestos aftermarket products.
I did not have brake problems but I am the type that when replacements are needed I get the best I can. At 40K my 97 Dakota needed brakes (and rotors, gee whiz) and Rabestos were put on. Comparing the brake action to my 01 with OEM the new oines are much firmer and quicker acting. The also need less foot pressure than the OEM ones. No problems with my 01 brakes yet but I've only got 6000 miles on it.
When brakes are needed, either because of warpage or worn out, I'll be going aftermarket again. IMO good brakes are cheap insurance.
Bookitty
Anyway, my truck is in and the dealer promised me no one would drive it, but it is hard to think how no one would want to. It appears all the options are there, so the only thing to do now is go through the "checklist". Damn! the 4X4 sport plus with T&H looks FINE in the graphite metallic!
robl4, do you live in a northern climate. I do, and it has been down near freezing for the few weeks. It does sound resonable that it could be caused by the expansion and contraction of the plastic.
Either way it sounds like they are defective if several people are having problems. Maybe I will ask my dealer about replacement.
Keep in mind that a REBATE is actually just a loan using your truck for colatteral. For this reason, I would NEVER opt for a rebate and instead opt for a lower interest rate if available. (Why spend MORE on a vehicle just to get a loan? There are cheaper ways to get a loan.)
So... in essense you are purchasing your new truck (and paying taxes on it) then they give you a loan calling it a rebate. It is not really a rebate...just a sales gimmick to put cash in your pocket!!