Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

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Comments

  • namfflownamfflow Member Posts: 202
    The sludge issue was on the early 4.7 L. The problem is gone now. It really wasn't sludge. What was happening was the filler tube was exposed to cold air so as dino oil vaporized a little waxy (vasoline) buildup was occuring on the bottom of the filler cap. No real issue but not desired.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The "oil-water emulsion" still exists in cold weather. As namfflow suggests, dyno-oil tends to mix with water much easier and show the sludge.

    There was a "improved" oil-fill cap and a "baffle" that fits inside the oil-fill tube that attempts to insulate and direct the water vapor that comes off of the oil so the PCV system can remove it.

    Make no mistake... ALL ENGINES HAVE THIS, just the design of the 4.7L v8 hemi is more efficent at concentrating it on the inside of the oil-fill-tube than most other engines.
  • victxvictx Member Posts: 108
    I have read several posts from members of the Dakota Mailing List indicating that the install of the Hurst shifter for the Dakota was not an easy thing to accomplish. They had to make several customizations to get the shifter in. I wouldn't recommend it until the install kit has been improved.
  • enfurioenfurio Member Posts: 33
    Thanks for the info on sludge and shifters.

    Has anyone put a good set of seatcovers on all four of the QC seats? The vehicle that I ordered has the cloth high back buckets in the front and I am considering the dealer seat covers all the way around. (assuming they would fit the best) I've seen those neoprene covers, but have no idea if they are any good.

    Basically, just looking to protect all the fabric from mud, dogs, greasy mechanic friends, etc. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
  • badassbobbadassbob Member Posts: 78
    Well i guess my parts guy lied through his teeth... To me, the only advantage of using the MOPAR kit was the supposedly "No-Cut" install process... If i had ordered this and found out the hard way, i would have sent it back and went the aftermarket way...

    Thanks for the info, you saved me a big headache by telling me this now...

    Chad
    WinstonSalem NC
  • txqc2000txqc2000 Member Posts: 121
    I have the Mopar seat covers for all 4 seats and I like them. They fit well, are comfortable, and have definitely protected my seats from all the mud and grime my kids and dog bring into the truck. I also considered the neoprene seats which look really cool. But after I considered the cost, I couldn't justify the $$ as I'd rather pay for performance mods.


    '00 Quadcab SLT+ Garnet Red 4x4 (AWD) 5.9L 46RE 3.55 LSD. For list of modifications to my QC, see my profile:

    http://www.twistedbits.net/WWWProfile/dakota/Vof5jrNb0pR1M/


    For pictures of my QC & Accessories: http://www.geocities.com/txqc2000
  • hogger4hogger4 Member Posts: 29
    I am looking for a source for the clear & red replacement tail light lenses for my 01 Quad. Any idea of who carries them? As usual, if I had a F or C, I could get a bed load of 'em anywhere!
    Thanks!
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    Check Ebay, do a search on Dodge Dakota and altezza. I've seen them listed several times. They sell in the $180 range. They are also listed in the back of Sport Truck and Trucking magazines. Rick
  • ja812ja812 Member Posts: 33
    txqc2000

    Where did you get your seat covers from....my dealer says they don't have them in there accessory catalog for Dodge
  • txqc2000txqc2000 Member Posts: 121
    I bought the seat covers from the dealership. They are definitely in the 2001 accessories brochure as well as the 2000 accessories brochure and come in at least two colors (dark grey for the dark interiors, and light grey for the lighter grey interiors).

    I'm not able to get my hands on the 2001 accessories brochure I have @ home right now. But if you still have problems with your dealership, e-mail me and I'll reply with the part number for the covers and also my dealer's phone number in case you want to order it from them. It only took me 1 day to get.
  • jebsdaddyjebsdaddy Member Posts: 52
    I worked out the following so that an engine's rpm can be determined at a given mph, axle ratio, transmission gear, and tire size. Hope this helps anyone that is interested.

    1) determine the o.d. of the tire

    for example: P265-70-R16 tire size
    265mm divided by 25.4mm/inch = 10.433"
    10.433" times 70% aspect ratio = 7.303"
    (7.303 times 2) + 16" = 30.61" O.D.

    note: the times 2 above is for the top plus the
    bottom of the tire and the 16" is the wheel
    dia.

    The formula for rpm is:

    rpm = (mph x tire rev/mile x axle r. x trans gear)
    / 60

    tire rev/mile = (5280 x 12)/(pi x tire O.D.)
    = 63,360 / (3.1416 x 30.61)
    = 658.9 rev/mile
    note: 5280=ft/mile; 12"/ft; pi x O.D. = cir.

    Now to fill in the equation with my axle ratio = 3.92, the overdrive's manual 5th gear is 0.73 and my mph will be 60 mph. The 60 in the denominator is a constant.

    rpm = (60mph x 658.9 x 3.92 x 0.73) / 60
    = 1885

    Hope this helps someone. As you can see, the tire size, axle ratio, trans-x ratio are all part of the equation.
  • tuvtesttuvtest Member Posts: 237
    With as many questions as we get about this type of thing, it might be worth it to post it in the FAQ board. Thanks for doing all that work
  • bobs5bobs5 Member Posts: 557
    check out the new "EVENTS" discussion.
    KarenS "Dodge Dakota Owners: Events" Sep 24, 2001 8:16am
  • jhorljhorl Member Posts: 89
    I know there have been some previous discussions about tire pressure on the Dakota Quad. I have a 2000 4x4 with the 31 10.5 15" GoodYear Wranglers and the recommended pressure is 30 front and 30 rear(light load) and 35 front and 41 rear(full load) I rarely carry a load but 30 psi seems too low. I remember somebody suggesting 41 psi all around for best fuel economy and tire wear. Please refresh my memory on this....Also i've been trying to get some input on synthetic rear end fluid. The two products i'm considering are Mobil 1 and Amsoil for my 3.55 rear (no LSD) Which is the superior product? Thanks much......John
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (jhorl) Your quote on the recommended PSI is incorrect. The 31 inch tires SHOULD be run at 41PSI. Please read your owners manual carefully. There is a section that tells you to add 10PSI to what is called out on the door sticker.

    (If you read the door sticker carefully... it is NOT talking about the 31 inch tires.)
  • jhorljhorl Member Posts: 89
    (bpeebles) You are correct about adding the 10 psi for certain conditions...ie "Add 10 psi for use between 65 mph and 84 mph" which comes directly out of the owners manual pg 135. I also referenced the supplement which came with the Owners manual titled Tire Inflation Pressures. This supplement covers all Dodge Truck made as well as various tire options. Under Dakota 4 Wheel Drive Models it specifically addresses the 31" tire and that is where I got the numbers from in my previous post. Basically Using Light load numbers and adding the 10 psi for speeds above 65 psi I come up with 40 psi...using Full load numbers and adding 10 psi I come up with 45 front and 51 rear. It goes on to allow one to add another 10 psi for special operating conditions such as campers etc...not to exceed the max load inflation pressure molded into tire sidewall by more than 10 psi. It surprised me to read that little excerpt (figured the insurance companies would have had a ---- fit. Anyway sorry for the long post and thanks for all your input. John
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Member Posts: 159
    Has anyone had this slow speed popping/cracking
    noise when turning?
    Has any dealership corrected the noise?
    mick
  • bncbnc Member Posts: 21
    I have, I noticed it about a week ago. 15k on my 01' 4x4 quad. I just got back from the dealer. They are ordering the A arms for my truck. I also have had the rotors turned once at 11k and they started to pulse again at 12500. I was on an extended trip but they will honor the warranty replacment of the rotors. They did have to order the parts and would not give me a car to use for tomorrow. they did offer to pay 33.00 towards a rental which in my opinion is not good enough for premature failure on a 23-26 k dollar truck.
    Brett
  • ja812ja812 Member Posts: 33
    txqc2000

    Thank-You for advice on seat covers I found them at another dealer
  • slickwilliedjslickwilliedj Member Posts: 252
    mtrialsm I owna sport plus 2wd 4.7 lsd rea r3.55 all the toys. i have about 8500miles its now 1 yr old and i have this popping noise from the front for about the last 8 mos i have taken truck to the dealer numerious times and they have not been able to figure it out or they can,t dupilcate the problem. this popping sound only occurs while braking and turning at slow speeds. you can almost hear the noise go from side to side. i think it the brakes somehow. although its annoying thus far has not gotton worse or effected the performance of the truck handleing or braking. if you or your dealer come to a conclusion pls let me know i have posted this problem several time and theres a few other owners on thsi site with the same problem but no real answers as to wants the cause is. **** JUST this week i had to have the left upper control a arm replaced because the boot covering the bushing was torn and cut?? i thought and so did the deal think this might have been the cause of the popping noise but i knew it wouldnot be that easy somehow too bad though. my dealer did perform the tsb thats out for this issue and it calls for them to realign the steering colum and clock spring. they performed this on my truck and still is making pop corn. what can i say turn the radio up and floor it and enjoy!
  • gator72gator72 Member Posts: 115
    Check back thru the posts from late Spring thru mid Summer and you will see where I made numerous posts about the popping-when-slow-turning noises.

    FYI: I have a 2001 QC SLT+, 4.7 V-8, auto., tire and handling package, security pack, Sentry Key system and Power Overhead Convenience Group.

    The upshot is, after 4~5 trips to the dealer, they stopped the creaking/popping noises by replacing the bushings on the front torsion bars (ie. anti-sway bars). If you have torsion bars, this might be the fix. If you don't ... well ...

    Be sure to see my next post about replacing the A/C "Control Head".

    Best of Luck,
    GATOR72
  • gator72gator72 Member Posts: 115
    I have a 2001 QC SLT+, 4.7 V-8, auto., tire and handling package, security pack, Sentry Key system and Power Overhead Convenience Group.

    A while back, I noticed the A/C button light would blink on/off when driving highway speeds (70~75). When it blinked off, the A/C would blow warm air.

    I never would have believed it, but my dealer was able to actually DUPLICATE the problem!!!

    So, they ordered something called an A/C Control Head to fix the problem. It's the oblong component below the radio that contains the A/C fan controls and air-flow directional control knob.

    Well, the part finally came in and the dealer installed it. Problem is, it blows even less air than the original. When the knob is put on the first setting, you can barely feel ANY air whatsover;

    The new fan knob sometimes gets stuck when switching from off to the first fan speed. It feels like something is catching it; or, like it has made it to the 1st fan speed position (which it has not).

    I'm debating on whether to take it BACK to the dealer to hear what they have to say about this. Problem is, it's a "minor" problem at this point. I'm afraid if the dealer keeps tinkering with it, it might make things worse!
    Also, I work for a living and can't keep taking off time from work for this. I thought about waiting a while to see if the problem gets any worse.

    ANY SUGGESTIONS???

    GATOR72
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    See my post in maintenance regarding replacement of brakes and the popping noise.
    Suprised no one has commented on it however I am sure many have read it.
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Member Posts: 159
    Noticed on another Dakota site; 2001 Dakota
    service bulletin number: 1900900
    talks about "popping sensation/sound felt
    and heard in the steering column,,,,,,,"
    I wonder what "they do about it"?
    mick
    That site was:
    http://carrola.home.texas.net/dodge/dakotamain.html
  • slickwilliedjslickwilliedj Member Posts: 252
    I was reading in MOTOR TREND/AND PARADE NEWS PAPER on the 2002 models specs. that the JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE will be offered in a model called the highlander that features the 4.7 (power tech- jeep words for our engine that DODGE calls the" Magnum" or" New Generation")that is a H.O. version producing 260HP! i also noticed that the new big brother ram p/u features the 4.7 producing 240hp.***** any body know what modifications JEEP/DODGE is making to gain this extra HP! ? can we modify the 4.7 to do the same?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (slickwilliedj)

    The word is that the bulk of the power comes from different cams and other internal (Piston / con-rod) changes... Nothing I can do in my drivway standing in a snowbank.
  • ferousferous Member Posts: 226
    Come on Bruce. You don't have snow in driveway yet! I did see some flakes in the air here last Saturday.
  • mtrogstadmtrogstad Member Posts: 21
    Well, I haven't visited the site for awhile so I have been busy reading the hundreds of messages from the last couple months. Lots of interesting stuff.

    I got my 2001 QC last March. I now have over 11,000 miles on it. (Thanks to a honeymoon trip to the Black Hills of South Dakota) I am averaging about 12 MPG in town, 17-18 MPG highway.

    I love this truck. I have added a line-X bedliner and a roll-n-lock cover. I have been satisfied with both.

    I have only had a couple problems. My check engine light come on just as I was headed out of town for the weekend. I made a quick trip to the dealer and they hooked up the computer. They took my gas cap off and put it back on and sent me on my way. I remember reading that in the manual but forgot to check.

    While reading back through the messages I missed in the last few months I noticed several people have the same problem that I do with my truck wanting to stall on cold starts. I have taken my truck in twice for this and they have not fixed it. Once the changed my idle settings and the next time they told me Dodge was aware of the problem but had not came out with an update to fix it. However, reading the messages on the board it sounds like some of you have gotten this problem fixed. What do I need to tell my dealership to lead them in the right direction? Is there a certain PCM update number?

    One last item. I know ayrow had gotten custom tow hook brackets made previously. However, I was just wondering if anyone had seen these on the market yet? If not, does ayrow have any dimension he could post or do I have to do my own dirty work? :-)

    Thanks, and I hope to keep up to date on the board now.
  • enfurioenfurio Member Posts: 33
    Just got back from the dealer with some bad news: My 2002 5 spd. 4.7 4X4 etc Quad cab won't be built until next month. I suspect that the build schedule has changed in the last month and I assume it is harder to get the parts JIT now. (the wait at the Michigan-Canadian borders has been in the hours for trucks) I ordered it in mid-Sept and hoped it would be in by late Oct., but I won't complain about 1 month less of payments. I just hope my 88 S-10 lasts another 2 months or so.

    A couple of interesting things I noticed on the 2002 QC SLT 4X4 quad cab I was drooling on in the showroom:
    Hood insulator - NO
    Full alloy spare - NO! just full size stamped steel one!

    I am also told that if you order the HD towing package for 2002, synthetic fluid comes stock in the diff. I am going to get this in writing because I know it has been an issue in the past.

    Does anybody know if there is a web site to track the build? I have the build number and I thought that there was a way to check on it without calling the dealer.
  • themacguythemacguy Member Posts: 417
    have seen reviews of the larger, 4 door Ram truck and all have shown 235 hp and 295 tq ratings. interesting, since were lowered in hp to 230 last year from my 2000 quad. hmmm... also read that one (me) can change out the throttle body to the new ones - slightly larger by a few mils - and possibly gain a bit of power with no mpg penalty. sounds interesting. and oh, you've got to start it and idle it once for a few seconds for the pooter thingy to reset, then it's good to go. about $175.
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    If I remember correctly, the hood insulation disappeared sometime during the 2001 model year on the SLTs. The change to the spare tire wheel sucks, but DC is trying to make a buck any way they can.

    I also noticed on the Dodge website a couple other changes for 2002:

    1) The 136 amp alternator is now standard. Use to come with the
    HD service group. Price of the HD service group did not change
    from 2001 to 2002.
    2) Brake shift interlock now comes with the auto transmission -
    Dodge finally gives in to the safety [non-permissible content removed].

    In regards to the synthetic fluid in the differential, does that come with the HD service group or the towing package? Also, is it just the rear diff or front as well (in case of the 4x4s). Just curious.

    Like you, I ordered my 2002 QC mid-September expecting a late October delivery. I don't have a build number yet. Maybe I'll bug my dealer next week.

    That's all for now.
  • skylerkskylerk Member Posts: 67
    enfurio, here's the web site which describes how to call and check the status of your order:

    http://www.dakota-truck.net/order_status.html
  • slr9589slr9589 Member Posts: 121
    I sat in the rear seat of this monster and you know guys....it ain't a DAK......
    be good,
    slr9589
  • enfurioenfurio Member Posts: 33
    Sunburn, It's good to hear from someone who has just ordered an '02 like myself, I guess we will be able to compare notes. My vehicle is a 4X4 (part time) QC, 4.7L, manual 5 spd, sport plus group, cloth buckets, 3:92 rear, trailer tow, HD group, graphite metallic, ALL the goodies.

    As far as the alternator goes, I am not sure if the 136 amp is standard. Maybe it is for the QC (ot tow pkg) because I recall seeing the small one listed while building Dakotas several times on the Dodge website and elsewhere. If you order the tow package, you automatically get the HD package, so you get the synth diff oil included in the rear (or so they say). There is no front differential (like on the rear) and I am not sure what kind of oil they put in the transfer case (there was a couple of postings where someone put synthetic oil in EVERYTHING, but I can't remember who).

    I sure hope my truck gets here before the middle of Nov.; I live North of Detroit and the winter's here are savage. My old 4X4 S-10 is running off of sheer willpower and McGuyverin', so I am afraid to throw the 4X4 lever fearing a transfer case explosion.

    Have you compared your dealer pricing vs. the Dodge website pricing vs. the Carsdirect.com pricing? At carsdirect.com it says about $25,000 for a loaded vehicle similar to mine.

    Has anyone else used or bought their Dakota at an online site?
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    I shopped prices initially on the Internet. The QC I ordered has the following options: 4x4(PT), 4.7L, Auto, Sport Plus Pkg, Limited Slip Diff, 3.92 axle, 4 wheel ABS, engine block heater, HD service group, Power Heated Mirrors, AM/FM/Cass/CD, Rear Slider, Bucket Seats, Deluxe Conv Group, and Power Conv Group. List price was $28,405. The AUTOBYTEL dealer I contacted wanted about $27,100. I went to STONEAGE.com ($10 for this service) and got a price of $26,275, which was $100 below invoice. These prices do not include the $1000 rebate. After some "negotiation", my local dealer matched the STONEAGE price. I went through the Dodge website and contacted every dealer within a 2 hr radius of where I live. Didn't get any better price.

    I didn't get the trailer towing package. I didn't feel like paying $275 for a hitch and wiring, especially since I have no current need. Also, a local truck accessory place will put on a hitch (from any manufacturer they carry) and wiring for $150.

    I called my dealer today, but haven't heard back on an estimated arrival date. Since I'm in the process of refinancing my house, mid-Nov to end of Nov wouldn't bother me a whole lot right now.

    We'll see how it goes.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    When I did my research before purchasing 2000 Dak in late 1999... the 4.7L ALWAYS had the larger alternator with it.

    This is why I decided that the HD servicegroup was WAAAYY to expensive for just a powersteering cooler.
  • enfurioenfurio Member Posts: 33
    Well, the incredibly positive, concise and satisfying relationship with my dealership has begun! On Monday my dealer re-confirmed that my '02 QC wouldn't be BUILT until early November (as was the case for 2 weeks now). Tuesday afternoon he calls me and tells me that -SUPRISE!- my truck was delivered to his facility that morning! My confidence level that it has all the options I ordered on it is pretty low. I mean, do they really not know when this stuff is being built? I didn't even have time to try to track it with the build code. That kind of stuff makes me nervous.

    Admittidtly, I am excited, but my farm bureau membership rebate won't take effect until the 26th and I don't have the down payment yet that I was planning on. I just hope they don't let everybody who is looking for a 5-speed manual test drive it. I will probably go and drool over a few times until a week & a half goes by when I can go pick it up. I did put down a deposit, so it will probably just sit quietly on their back lot.

    Since I will be a Bona-fide OWNER soon, can anyone recommend a good website for aftermarket parts (weatherflectors, stone guards, bed extenders, Bosch plugs, etc.). I've been to J.C Whitney and several others, but I have no idea about promptness, quality or customer service.

    All this talk recently about warping rotors has got me a little jumpy. If anyone has replaced the rotors and pads with high quality aftermarket parts can you comment on your choices and make reccomendations? I am not afraid to spend a couple of hundred dollars for good quality brakes (and neither should anyone else).

    Thanks
  • johnbigbootiejohnbigbootie Member Posts: 7
    Not to cause you a meltdown, but I just had the front rotors AND rear drums replaced under warranty @ 11500 mi. (pedal pusation and steering wheel shake).
    When I asked the dealer what happens if brakes warp again, they said "we would probably not replace them again because its likely to be either your driving habits, or the roads you drive on (hills)" .
    This kind of stuff really pisses me off. This is about my tenth new car/truck. Never had any problem with my driving habits warping brakes before. How can they just put the same junk back on and expect a different result? Sounds like a design problem, not a driver problem!
    You shouldn't have to buy $3000 Brembo's to get brakes that can handle normal driving conditions!
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    them replaced FOUR times like I did.
    ANd I agree with you. Thats why I filed a complaint with the NHTSA and sent Chrysler a rough letter lettting them know what I think.
    Good luck.
    Seems the ulitmate solution is Bendix or Raybestos aftermarket products.
  • namfflownamfflow Member Posts: 202
    Just want to comment that from what I have seen on other discussion boards, brake problems from warped rotors is not limited to Dakotas or DC products. It seems that all manufacturers are having problems. Its a combination of lowering costs, change in pad materials and trying to get a soft ride and poor quality of NAFTA parts that is the issue. Those with aftermarket units will most likely notice a firmer braking action.

    I did not have brake problems but I am the type that when replacements are needed I get the best I can. At 40K my 97 Dakota needed brakes (and rotors, gee whiz) and Rabestos were put on. Comparing the brake action to my 01 with OEM the new oines are much firmer and quicker acting. The also need less foot pressure than the OEM ones. No problems with my 01 brakes yet but I've only got 6000 miles on it.

    When brakes are needed, either because of warpage or worn out, I'll be going aftermarket again. IMO good brakes are cheap insurance.
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Mike, try http://www.quadratec.com. They will send you a catalog on Dodge stuff only. Their prices seem fair and the service is good. Good luck with your new truck. You will love it!


    Bookitty

  • hogger4hogger4 Member Posts: 29
    28,000 miles and received the 2nd set of rotors under warrantee. 1st set made it to 8,000 miles before warping, so I guess the newer ones are better. Service writer admitted DC brake pads are junk. Said the new rotors have a coating (ceramic?) that should decrease warping. He offered to put in Raybestos pads (that I would buy) after I get off warrantee at no charge. That is an offer I will take him up on!
  • robl4robl4 Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2001 quad cab slt and recently noticed that both fog lights are cracked. A friend of mine that has the same vehicle also has cracked fog lights. It appears the heat from the lights caused the cracks. Has anyone else had this problem and if so, will dodge replace them under warranty? Thanks in advance
  • ferousferous Member Posts: 226
    I understand your concern with your truck sitting on the lot for at least a week. When I ordered my 4.7L 5spd, I told the salesperson that I could not pick it up any earlier than 8 weeks to the day I ordered it. Well it was delivered in 7 weeks. I told the sales person that that was my truck, and there better not be 2 miles on it when I pick it up. The manager wanted be to take it home then, but I told him I had already given them the date of next week. He complained about it having to sit on their lot for a week. So I told him that if he would give me an interest rate of .9% I would take it that day. He couldn't do that. That was 3/2000, now I could get it for .0%. Times Change!!!
  • enfurioenfurio Member Posts: 33
    Does anybody know if you can order the exterior door moldings from Dodge or an aftermarket website? (you know, the ones that absorb other people's door strikes in Costco's parking lot). I know the Dakota sport does not come with these, but I am not sure if the SLT does. They are on Durango doors and look like they might fit ok on the QC. I would assume you could order them in the proper color and just stick them on like they do in the assembly plant. I didn't even notice that there were no moldings until I went to check on my truck patiently waiting for me on the dealer's lot. (I get to pick it up in about a week!!!) Does anyone have problems with door dings due to a lack of protection on the door?

    Anyway, my truck is in and the dealer promised me no one would drive it, but it is hard to think how no one would want to. It appears all the options are there, so the only thing to do now is go through the "checklist". Damn! the 4X4 sport plus with T&H looks FINE in the graphite metallic!
  • ferousferous Member Posts: 226
    I ordered the trim option with my truck ($60). They are the same as the Durango, but the Dakota's comes in only black. If you want color matched, then order the Durango's. Either way they are the same length. Apply them starting with seam between the two doors, so work forward, and then work back from the seam.
  • mtrogstadmtrogstad Member Posts: 21
    I also noticed my fog lights are cracked. At first I just noticed a crack in my passenger side fog light. I figured a rock hit it. But now when I look closer both of them have cracks throughout the entire lens. Almost like a spider web affect.

    robl4, do you live in a northern climate. I do, and it has been down near freezing for the few weeks. It does sound resonable that it could be caused by the expansion and contraction of the plastic.

    Either way it sounds like they are defective if several people are having problems. Maybe I will ask my dealer about replacement.
  • rjayrjay Member Posts: 15
    My dealer indicates that he will apply the $1000 chrysler rebate and the $500 Farm Bureau rebate after taxes on the total amount. This doesn't seem right to me as they are taxing a price that would be discounted by rebates. ANyone have any experience with this???
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    Aftermarket door moldings are available through Trim-Gard (www.trim-gard.com). The part number for the QC is 1402BT-QC. You could probably get them through a local body parts supply shop. I wanted to get them on my Sport Plus QC when I ordered it, but they only come from the factory on the SLT. This will be one of the first things I put on my new QC.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (rjay) I have seen some other (non car) companies trying to charge sales tax on SHIPPING charges...This is plain illeagal.

    Keep in mind that a REBATE is actually just a loan using your truck for colatteral. For this reason, I would NEVER opt for a rebate and instead opt for a lower interest rate if available. (Why spend MORE on a vehicle just to get a loan? There are cheaper ways to get a loan.)

    So... in essense you are purchasing your new truck (and paying taxes on it) then they give you a loan calling it a rebate. It is not really a rebate...just a sales gimmick to put cash in your pocket!!
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