Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

mtrialsm · December 2001

My 2001 Quad (2x4,auto,etc) always is loud
when cold, then quitens down. Must be normal?
8800 miles and no problems except popping in
frontend/steering, but that's getting less
noticable. Best mileage to date is 18mpg hwy.
But usually around 16mpg. Since gas prices
have dropped, I've tried 89 octane midrange
several times, a little better performance,
mileage? Or is it just me?

Bedliner? I use a bed mat, I like to see the paint. If it gets too bad then I'll cover it
with "x-line".

bobs5 · December 2001

Just passed the 6000 mile mark on the truck.

Truck is a year old now...Happy Birthday!

Brought the truck in for the 6000 mile maintenance interval and had the front seatbelt anchor bolt recall taken care of.
Been running fantastic. Gas mileage is about 16 mpg, mostly local driving.

I am still unemployed since 6/11/01. Unemployment has almost run out. Have been doing some construction work jobs on the side, and looks like I will have more of that work in the future.
Quite a difference from the electronics technician work that I used to do. Sleep real good at night though. Looks like I will be changing careers, at least until I find another electronics job.

Take care all,
Bob

mopar67 · December 2001

If so, then this motto certainly is true.

We didn't HAFTA have NAFTA!

Good luck and best wishes to you in finding work. Now is a horrible time to be unemployed thats for sure.

steve234 · December 2001

My memory says that the sales brochure on the 01 had a much lower rating for the manual than the automatic, but I don't see a difference in the owner's manual, so I'll eat crow on that. I personally feel that automatics are bettter at towing because on take off, an automatic will 'multiply' the torgue and get better momentum. I have owned both autos and manuals, hauled boats, cargo, campers and livestock and have never had problems with an automatic. I have experienced emergencies while driving a manual where I did not like having a foot and hand occupied with shifting.
As for brakes, the dakota is narrower than a full-size pickup, and is shorter length than several xcabs and 4dr models but a lot of it depends on the particular truck. Most full-size trucks have larger brakes. Electric brakes are great. I even changed the surge brakes on my boat to electric when they came out with a marine version, but they are no guarantee in all situations. I have seen trailer brakes freeze and lose capacity in the right conditions.
The main rule about towing with any vehicle is never tow within 10-20% of the towing limit except under rare conditions and never tow the limit or higher with any truck, period.

sunburn · December 2001

I took delivery of my 2002 QC on the evening of 11/1. On 11/2 I found out about DC's 7yr/100K mi powertrain warranty. When I asked my dealer if I was eligible, they said no. They said that since the truck was delivered to them in October, I wasn't eligible. I contacted DC customer service and they said that the eligibility for this program was based on the in service date of your vehicle and my in service date was 10/31! I was surprised about this since I have a pile of documents that I signed and they are all dated 11/1. I find it very strange that the dealer set the in service date the day before I picked it up. They must of been eager to add it to their October sales numbers. I'm a bit P.O.ed that the dealer may have screwed me out additional powertrain coverage. Has anyone else had any experience with their dealer setting the in service date before you actually picked up the vehicle?

billarf · December 2001

If your papers are all dated and you signed on 11/1/01 then your purchase date and thus in service date are 11/01/01. I would raise a fuss with Dodge motor company. Bill in NY

iowabigguy · December 2001

Seems to me if it was put into service before you signed the purchase paperwork it is a used vehicle or a demo! I'd call DC and mention the word lawsuit and see how they respond. Rick

gregp5 · December 2001

yes they sanded the bed down so the spray could adhere. I went with the Line-X and am very pleased with the results. I went with the under the rails, but over the front lip(behind the back window)and over the tailgate. I like the look of it this way and has the functionality of covering the tailgate top.

Greg

slr9589 · December 2001

Over the rail and plastic is the way i went...duraliner fit well and can be removed at any time with little fuss or muss.
after 3 trucks done similar i have never had any rust or corrosion on the bed.
over the rail allows me to throw junk into the bed without fearing a dent or ding.
over the rail may rub the paint on the top rail surface if it is not protected with a foam strip.
there's my 2 cents!

bookitty · December 2001

Lately, I have noticed a slow down on input to this forum. I hope that it is just a seasonal phenomena and that we are not becoming bored and/or tired with the site. I read the postings daily, and only input what limited information I can provide. We have some very fine resources here in the likes of people (and you can spell that "peeble" as well) who are very knowledgeable and helpful. We also have an exceptional host (and cheerleader) in Karen S. So troops, keep those cards and letters coming in. Here's wishing all a happy and safe holiday season.

Bookitty

mopar67 · December 2001

besides, most folks know my tirades by heart now and I would imagine they don't want to hear any more of my wisdom.

jebsdaddy · December 2001

I noticed something today that was a little unsettling so I'll share it with you since you asked. I don't want to be labeled a belly acher but today I happened to notice that my Dakota that costs $24,000 plus did not have any screws holding on the bottom of the interior door panels. The bottom of the panel on both doors on the driver's side was missing its screws while the good American on the line decided to put the screws in on the passenger side. Really makes you wonder if this same $40.00/hr. idiot left out any rod bolt nuts or maybe forgot a head bolt or two. I'm going to send the people at Chrysler my thoughts on this matter. Either get it right or Toyota or Ford or Nissan or who knows what will. How about that for a rant? Oh yeah....Merry Christmas

bobs5 · December 2001

Still here. Not too much to input though. Truck runs great, no problems.
Have been doing some construction work until another electronics job opens up.
Hope you, the Mrs., and Boo are doing well.
Bob

enfurio · December 2001

Yeah,

It has slowed down a bit.

Here's one!
Early next year I am going to get a Line-x or Rhino liner sprayed into my QC's bed. I am thinking about spraying the lower rocker panels/fenders/doors (maybe even up to the crease/styling line). Has anybody tried this? What about spraying that stuff on the underside of the sheetmetal? (where the fenders etc. are spotwelded to the floor pan piece)

I was going to try to put the clear plastic film on my rockers, but I will have to wait until it gets real warm or I find a nice big heated garage. The film cannot contour like the spray on stuff either. I think it may look cool, so I am going to use Photoshop to simulate it. I doubt that spray stuff would ever allow those pesky rock nicks, chips and rust spots. I think you can get the color custom mixed now too.

Any thoughts?

bozco12 · December 2001

i am going with liner x myself. beginning of the year after tax season( hopefully no suprises there :-0 . I heard the rhino process takes longer and has greater possiblity of being screwed up by techs...liner x is a harder coat and faster process.

slr9589 · December 2001

though i have little automotive knowlegde base i read this area daily.have learned quite a bit too.in the beginning we all tracked our quads from conception to birth....good ole ernie ! now we are sort of the proving ground for aging quads.that is a valuable resource in itself.
i'm off to find tires but wish all of you the best.
stephen

tmatthew · December 2001

I know this has been addressed here before but I can't seem to locate the meat of the conversations. I have used 6 qts with every oil and filter change but 5 sure looks better to my dip stick...dead on after driving around the block...6 just seems like a qt too much. It is what the owners man calls for so 6 I will do..or maybe 5 1/2 ..... what was the conscensus earlier?

bpeebles · December 2001

This is better discussed in the Dakota Maintainance area.

Quick answer.... the hi-tech oiling system tends to hold a lot of oil in the hollow camshafts and such... Engine must VERY hot and allowed ample time to drain...

If you want more specifics... please ask in the Dakota Maintainance area.

gtownguy · December 2001

Hello all, I thought I'd respond to bookitty and give an update. I now have 7k miles on my QC. Problems- Yes I have a cracked fog light lens (had it since I noticed on day 2 of ownership-thought I must have hit a stone- but looks like it may be that heat problem mentioned earlier.) I noticed a couple screws missing on the underside of the 4x4 flares. It starts up great first in the morning but after its been running a while- re-starts are no so quick, I need to step on the gas pedal. I seem to also have a hum from the rear end- slight when coasting 35-50 Mph. (Not very noticeable-I look to hear it). I installed the Westin step bars and am not happy w/them. I'm 6'2" and they do not stick out far enough to step on them without carefully trying to. They don't protect the doors either.
Any ways that has me noticing as I step out directly onto the ground off my seat edge. Particuarly the left 1/4 side seems like it may be sussepable to accelerated wear? I started sitting on a black towel to slo the abraision. (I have the stock gray fabric bench seat.
Underneath, while changing oil, I noticed the bushings that hold the front suspension A-frame arms (4X4). For a truck that was built in May, these black rubber bushings seems cracked and over squished (deteriorated?). Much like you would expect to see on an older car. Any one else see these? Are they major issues- hate to have dealer rip apart front end as I don't have much faith in most dealer techs.
I guess in a month or 2 I'll see dealer about my small issues.
Anyways, sorry for the ranting and raving , the other 95% of ownership experience is good. I guess I'm a little anal about my vehicles (but, I guess some others are here too.) If anyone has comments or advice on what I've said please respond.
Happy and Safe holidays to all.
Thanks, Tom.

phishcranium · December 2001

200 Dodge Dakota 2002/4.7l V8 with LSD. Automatic transmission. I notice when I come to a stop and move the gear shifter from Drive to Park I sometimes get a clunk and the vehicle moves a little. Does anybody else have this problem?

Thanks for your help!

dodgetrukn · December 2001

Well, was on my bro's tear-em-up put on new tar road this w'end. Did a sharp left hand turn
over some bumps and "CLUNK" ! Wow , it was loud! Didn't try to reproduce again at the time, had errands to finish..Gonna have to look underneath..Any suggestions? Will mention to dealer when I go for checkup on Jan10th.

Karen_S · December 2001

I think it's just the normal holiday busy time that is affecting the activity here, and throughout the entire Town Hall.

Happy holidays to all the Dakota gang!

KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs

bookitty · December 2001

Happy holiday to you and yours.

Bookitty

stnick · December 2001

Happy holidays to all and thanks for sharing all the great info. I too have been busier than normal, but take note the handle! STNICK.

ferous · December 2001

I'm actually a little thankful for the slow down. I've been traveling (flying) the last week and half and I was afraid that I might miss a lot. Only 18 posts since I was in last.

My update. Turned 40K on the way to the airport 12/10. The truck still hasn't had one real issue yet. Still averaging over 22+ MPG life avg, but it's winter here in MI and I'm having troubles even getting 22 MPG now. Same as last winter. Cold MI air cuts between 1-2 MPG. I haven't washed it in over a month, so now that I'm off for Christmas break AND it's suppose to be sunny and 36 degrees tomorrow. I think I give the QC a good wash.

Have a merry Christmas everyone

Boo - I was in Hazleton, PA last week. Really enjoyed the mts.

bookitty · December 2001

Thad, happy holiday to you and yours as well. There is an old joke about Hazelton. We were playing Monopoly one night with a friend who used to live there. We offered Hazelton and Tamaqua for Boardwalk and Parkplace. Glad to hear that your truck continues to please you. Mine does that for me. I worked for a company in the UP for 23 years and learned quite a bit about cold and snow. Here in Eastern PA and NJ it is rather moderate, especially so far this winter.

Bookitty

surffla1 · December 2001

Took delivery of my 02 Quad Sport+(4.7 manual, 2wd, LSD, HD, Tow Package) yesterday. Love the truck, I look for any excuse to take it out and drive it (Honey, we're out of milk). My first question concerns at what speeds to shift for optimum fuel mileage. The owner's manual gives only 1 recommended shift speeds for the 4.7 manual (15mph 1st to 2nd, 25 mph 2nd to 3rd, 40 mph 3rd to 4th and 45 mph 4th to 5th). These recommended shifts give me all the acceleration I need and then some! They almost seem too high to me! Is it OK to shift at lower speeds? Will this provide better fuel mileage? Or should I just shut up and enjoy the ride!?

2nd question concerns a recommendation in the break in section of the manual. It says after the initial 60 miles "while cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration, within the limits of local traffic laws, contributes to a good break-in." Hoping not to sound ignorant (I am a very conservative driver), can some one explain to me what "brief full throttle acceleration" is? Pedal to the floor? How brief is brief?

Thanx again for all the help.

PS: Reasons why I chose Dakota over Tacoma.
1. No available manual on the 4dr. Taco.
2. The Dakota flat out, hands down, no
contest is the best looking 4 door truck
out there (even better than the 02
Ram). The front grill on the Taco 4dr.
killed off any chances of me buying for
the oft stated quality Toyota engineering
(what were they thinking when they added
that thing?!)

I just hope that 5 years down the line I don't find myself saying "I guess looks aren't everything". Time will tell.

bobs5 · December 2001

Question 1...I usually shift before 2k rpm on the tach. This seems to result in better gas mileage. I can also shift at lower rpm and speeds than the owners manual specifies. Driving conditions will dictate how much gas pedal is needed. Such as accelerating in order to get up to speed per road requirements. Local roads, highways, etc.

Question 2..."brief full throttle acceleration" ...To me this means pedal to the metal.
"How brief is brief?" ...the time it takes the truck at full throttle to get up to the speed limit. A good way to do this, is when entering a highway, go for it! Wind that puppy up! Rev it up a bit to say 4k rpm or so. There is a rev limiter so the engine won't blow up. You'll note that once 3nd gear is wound up, it is past 55 mph.
Good luck and enjoy,
Bob

bpeebles · December 2001

Further comments on your questions;

1)During "break in", use the recommended shift points. The intent is to NOT lug the engine for some number of miles. As you "learn" the vehicle, you should start to naturally shift as bobs5 has suggested. If you have to think about it... you need more time behind the wheel. (get some more milk ;-)

As the engine sees some miles, it will run smoother and the MPG will improve. (Most folks report this takes over 10,000 miles for things to settle out.)

2)Do not forget that that "Full throttle accelleration" MUST be followed by decelleration in gear.

The intent is to "seat the rings" and it is the decelleration that provides the necessarry forces on the rings to allow proper seating.

surffla1 · December 2001

bpeebles,
Does that mean that after the break in period it will be OK to shift at lower speeds?

And if you don't mind a few other questions.

1. From the manual: "Drive moderately during the first 300 miles. After the initial 60 miles, speeds up to 50 or 55 mph are desirable." Does this mean I should refrain from driving above 55 mph during the first 300 miles?

2. What brand(s) of oil filter do you recommend?

3. I live in east central Florida. Generally moderate temperatures year round. A few rare freezes in winter, summer can get very hot occasionally hitting the 100 mark. Engine oil viscosity: Should I stay with the "preferred" 5W-30 or would 10W-30 better suit my conditions?

ferous · December 2001

I know I will get some comments for this, but here it is.
I have the 4.7 5spd 2WD 3.55 LSD with the P215-75R-15 tires. Under normal driving conditions (EMPTY), I start in 2nd gear, shift into 3rd at 2,000 RPMs then shift into 5th at around 2,100 RPMs. I've had my QC for almost 2 years and 40K miles later this pattern works great for me. I use to drive a E-150 6 cyl with the "3 on the tree" shifting. My 2nd, 3rd, 5th shift pattern is just like my old "3 on the tree" shifting. When I am towing the camper or utility trailer, then I use all 5 gears and shift closer to 2,200-2,400 RPMs. If I need to "move it" (as we all due from time to time), I never get it out of 3rd by the time I have to slow it back down.

bpeebles · December 2001

1)... should refrain from driving above 55 mph during the first 300 miles?

ABSOUTLEY!! This critical part of an engines life is when all of the newly-machined surfaces are rubbing on each other for the very first time.

There is a lot of friction in localized areas generating excessive heat in those areas. The microscopic "high spots" will smooth down quickly (within 300 miles) Driving at high speeds (above 55MPH) can change the "temper" of some critical engine components due to the localized heat buildup. Slower engine speeds allow the heat to dissapate adequatly.

2)What brand(s) of oil filter do you recommend?

Any brand-name oil that meets the specifications is fine. (I prefer Castrol myself) As for FILTER, please review the oil-filter-study web site.

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/

3)Should I stay with the "preferred" 5W-30 or would 10W-30 better suit my conditions?

5W-30 is the reccomended oil. Do not try to second-guess the manufacturers reccomendation. Your "conditions" will rarely test the "5W" part of the specification anyway.

Here is more about OIL.

http://www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/engineoil_bible.html

bobs5 · December 2001

I have the larger tires on my truck and cannot start out in second gear without stalling. Bet first gear really creeps along for you with those smaller tires.
Usually shift at about 1700 - 2000 rpm through all the gears.
Guess every driver finds what works the best for them.
When I have to "move it", such as getting on the highway, once third gear is wound up, it is at highway speed and then some.

gsu1 · December 2001

I know this is an old subject but I have a short memory. Anyone have a suggestion for good replacement tires? I have a 2000 4x4 quad cab. I am leaning towards the Dunlop Radial Rover RVs. I also like the Pro Comp ATs. I will probably stay with the 31x10.5 that are on it now but have been thinking about 32x11.5. I am open to any other ideas.

waynesan · December 2001

An article on the new Grand Cherokee states that its 4.7L V-8's " ...power output has been been bumped to 260 horses and the torque is even more impressive at 330." Will these more powerful engines be going into the Dakotas? How was the greater power output achieved?
Can that power increase be made to the 01 4.7L?

bpeebles · December 2001

(waynesan) This must be one of the most often asked questions as of late. You are refering to the HO (High Output) 4.7L.

The simple answer is NO... we cannot "update" our existing 4.7L V8 hemi engines. To get the additional power, DC had to change several INTERNAL engine parts such as cams, conn-rods and such.

Do purchanse the parts from your dealer and install them would EASILLY cost over $1500.

Instead, buy a superchargher kit for your 4.7L V8 hemi. You will get MORE than 260HP.

kjcdr1 · December 2001

is not all bad. I have not posted in many moons, but do read fairly regularly to keep up with information that may be useful in the ownership of my Silver Q/C Sport that was delivered on March 1, 01. Now, on Dec 29/30 I am catching up after about 6 weeks of being busy with the PA deer season and preparing for Christmas. If posts had been coming at the same rate as during the spring and early summer, the catch up would not have been completed until next year.
After 10 months I am very happy with the Q/C (my first truck). When we were looking before placing an order for this truck, my wife informed me that I could buy a Tacoma, but it was not comfortable enough for her to ride in for more than a few miles. She likes the Q/C.
After 10 months I also have only 5400 miles on the vehicle. (Retirees do not commute and my long range travel is by air). Perhaps by the time the one-year anniversary is reached, there may be a 6000 mile report. Generally my gas mileage has been lower than I have seen posted here, primarily because most of my trips are very short. And at this point I have heard not transmission whines, steering clunks, or other weird sounds such as those reported here. Either it is a good truck, or my poor hearing and good CD player make it unnecessary to worry about strange sounds.
Now that I have done my bit to speed up the slow down, Happy New Year to Karen and all members of this forum.

sunburn · January 2002

Took the first long distance trip with the QC over the holidays. Went from central NY to central NH, about 650 miles round trip. On the eastbound trip the QC averaged 16.7 MPG (4.7, Auto, 4x4, 3.92, open bed). Travelled 70 MPH on the interstates and about 40-60 MPH on the two-lane roads. It was about 80% highways, 20% two-lanes. Had 4 people, and a full bed. I was happy with this since the truck only has 2000 miles on it and the trip covered hilly and mountainous terrain. The joy was short lived, however. On the return trip, it only managed 13.8 MPG. Same speeds, but had a 10-15 MPH headwind most of the way. Overall, the truck performed well. Comfortable, quiet, rides well, and tracks well. My only complaint would be the fact that with the cruise control on and going up steep hills, the speed would drop by 5 MPH, before the transmission would drop down to 3rd gear. Also, in these cases the transmission would go from 4th gear (torque converter locked-up) to 3rd gear, without attempting to maintain speed by unlocking the torque converter in 4th gear first. Other 4 speed automatics that I have had experiences with would go from 4th (converter locked), to 4th (converter unlocked), to 3rd when attempting to maintain speed while going up hill. It is just a minor nit, but dropping from 4th to 3rd seemed like overkill in some cases. The engine seemed like it would only need just 200-300 RPM extra to maintain speed. Unlocking the converter in 4th gear would provide this.

tmatthew · January 2002

Living in Arizona I test the 5W of the 5W-30. This is why in my 4.7 in the summer months I use 10W-40 as the temps are well over a 100 and for a few weeks over 110. Lord knows what it is radiating off the road. But this is acceptable practice per the ownwers manual. I guess I'm really testing the 30 not the 5 oh well you get my point.

bpeebles · January 2002

Your observed differences in MPG during each "leg" of the trip does seem excessive.
Your diagnosis of a headwind causing the difference certainly contributed to the difference but I suspect there is more to it than that. Was the outside temperture significantly COLDER during the return trip? Did you have the AC compressor on during the return trip?

Your understanding of the operation of the 45RFE automatic xmission is incorrect. It is a 4-speed tranny with 2 "second" gears.(SURPRIZE... it is a 5-speed) One of the second gears is used ONLY during initial accelleration from a stop while the 2'nd prime is used therafter as the "kickdown" gear.

You describe what gear the tranny is in and torque-converter condition pretty specifically... How do you know all of this information?
I guess what I am trying to say is that perhaps you are trying to compare this "state of the art" automatic tranny to other xmissions. You are fooling yourself. The 45RFE is so far advanced beyond the older transmissions that it takes a computer JUST TO CONTROL THE TRANSMISSION FUNCTIONS.

Example... the input and output shafts are constantly monitored and if any slippage is detected within the tranny, more pressure is applied to the clutches until the slippage is no longer sensed. As for your torque-converter lockup... the computer constantly monitors its function to provide the following 4 functions
1)No EMCC
2)Partial EMCC
3)Full EMCC
4)Gradual-to-no EMCC
(EMCC= Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch)

I submit to you that you CANNOT determine which of these 4 conditions that the computer is telling the TQ to do at any specific instance.

mopar67 · January 2002

unless you went up a pretty steep hill, then yes, it willkick to 3rd. Mine (and NO I do not LIKE this Xmission at ALL) does come out of lockup first, if it cannot maintain speed, then it will shift down a lower gear.
Why is yours not doing this?
GOod question. Welcome to the 45RFE world of wonders. Wish I had an answer. Then I would re work mine so I can cut my dry cleaning bills.

sunburn · January 2002

The temperature on each "leg" of the trip was in the 20-25 deg F range. The bed was not as full on the return leg, but that shouldn't make a noticeable difference. If my "local driving" mileage drops (it has been running 13.5 -14.2) this next week, then maybe something is up. I'll just have to keep an "eye" on it.

ferous · January 2002

Well I just had to look back over my "Gas Log" to review how the QC did for 2001.
(2000 QC 2wd 4.7L 5 spd 3.55 LSD loaded)
Started the year with 19,410 miles and ended with 40,714 (21,304 for the year).
Purchased 959 gallons of gas (min $.99 avg 1.41 max 1.94) for a total of $1,353. Good thing I make more than minimum wage.
MPG (min 20.4 avg 22.2 max 24.3) Pulled the camper only twice this summer. Less than 75 miles each time.
Only maintenance cost was for oil etc. (40K trouble free miles)

Hope everyone had a great Holiday.

zonk · January 2002

Sure wish I got that kind of gas mileage. I'm lucky to get 14-15 mpg in the city and 19+ on the road.

sunburn · January 2002

I'm getting ready to put some new speakers into the doors of my QC and need any inputs on removing the door panels. On the front doors, there are two screws on the bottom, one in the armrest, one by the mirror, and what appears to be a hidden one by the door handle. The back doors appear to be similar. Are there any other tricks to getting the door panels off?

davewarwick1 · January 2002

I am very interested in the previous posts regarding the amount of information out there on the 45RFE auto transmission. Is there someplace/somewhere to access that kind of detailed information. I have an 01 loaded DDQC with the 45RFE and not happy with it. Sometimes it shifts and runs nicely. Sometimes, it feels like the transmission is going to come out of the truck.

The truck is nice but the transmission is going to be the reason why I have the truck for a long time or not. So many of you have good things to say about the trans and I sometimes too have it run nice. It has been back to the dealer once and need I say more to that. I want to take it back again and I am almost ready to tell them to put a new one in but i know what they would tell me. Maybe if I had some more info on it I could "technically" blow their hair back and finally see some improvement.

sunburn · January 2002

The following link has some good technical information on the 45RFE transmission:

http://www.atra-gears.com/gears/mar01/24_dr_dr.html

This is from the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association. Happy reading!

victx · January 2002

On my 2001, once you removed the screws you mentioned, the door needs to be lifted about an inch or so, then pull it away from the door. Then you need to stick your hands in there and disconnect the door lock and door release levers (hard to explain, but once you see the lever it will be easily removed). Lastly, disconnect electrical connections for power locks, windows, mirrors, etc.

tegwj · January 2002

I took my QC ('01 2wd) in for its 15k service yesterday. In addition to the regular service items I asked them to correct the alignment and diagnose a vibration under braking from the front end. They charged me $110 for the alignment and confirmed what I already knew: the front rotors are slightly warped.

I was rather surprised when they said the repair wouldn't be covered under warranty. Evidently there's a 12k mile cap on brake-system wear items. I pointed out that their own technician confirmed I still had 8/32 of front pad left and that there was a fairly well documented history on the internet of other folks having similar premature failures on the rotors. The Service Manager, bless his heart, said that had I bought the truck at his dealership he might have considered a goodwill repair, but since I didn't... tough luck.

I am wondering how irritated to be about this. Other than going through this forum to tally up the number of folks who've had warped rotors, are there any suggestions? Is there a Dodge TSB or other official doc pointing to the rotors as a weak part?

Any advice is most welcome. Thanks!

twj

bobsyvee · January 2002

Why don't you bring the truck back to the dealer you bought it from and try to get a goodwill repair. If you read your warranty, you will know what is not covered after 12k miles. Why should a dealer give you free parts and service for a vehicle not purchased from him.

Jim

Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy