Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

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Comments

  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Yeah, it was brand new at that time, too. Fortunately my daughter and I are on very good terms. She's always had a heavy foot. She's got several friends that own Dakotas that she has driven a number of times. I suspect they're all 3.9 motors. I don't think she intended on removing the first 1000 miles of tread on my Wranglers in front of her house since she appeared surprised and later was amazed to learn it was a V8. She believes in operating all of her machinery to the max (and her driver's license proves it!).

    She has been driving Nissans the last eight years and they've held up admirably under her. She drives fast. Brakes and tires are a routine item for her though.

    Bests,
    Dusty
  • dakownerdakowner Member Posts: 21
    I'm posting my gas mileage if anyone wants to follow my progress. Here's the page:

    Dakowners Page
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Rick, considering the size, weight and power of your truck, I feel that the mileage is very acceptable. The tonneau will definitely improve mileage as well. I remember a study that Bruce Peebles posted, where different methods were employed and then checked (tailgate up, dropped, removed etc.) and if my memory serves me, the only significant difference was from a "hard" tonneau. I have the ARE and it makes for a much quieter ride, especially with the rear slider opened in the cab. I never really had the opportunity to personally check the difference (tonneau off/on) as both of my Dakotas had the tonneau installed immediately after delivery. By the way Rick, I swear by my ARE, even if it is not readily and easily removed to accommodate hauled taller items. That's where my 5X8 utility trailer comes in handy.

    Bookitty
  • kingquad1kingquad1 Member Posts: 37
    this just happened this morning. went to start my quad, and No power. wouldn't turn over. I jumped it and it would even stay running! after several attempts I finally got it to run. I left for work and everything seemed fine until the check gauges light came on. My electric gauge was"buried" all the way over to the right! I made it to work, shut the engine off. Tried to restart but nothing.
    Any ideas out there? I had no indication of electric problem before hand. I am leaning toward a bad battery. I have a 2000 QC, 4.7, 4x4, SLT with 43000 miles.
    thanks
  • ronslakieronslakie Member Posts: 58
    kingquad1 - I believe you may be right about the battery; my 2K Dak CC with 4.7 with 44K miles went out last week without much warning. I was able to squeeze about 2 more starts out of it after it started sounding week.
  • kingquad1kingquad1 Member Posts: 37
    had it checked out...it wouldn't hold a charge!
    I am glad that was it and not some other electrical problem!
  • dodgeguy1dodgeguy1 Member Posts: 8
    Add me to the dead battery family. The battery in my '01 quad cab 4.7 also died at 25 months. Will say that DC roadside assistance came and jumped the vehicle in my driveway--battery was replaced under warranty at my local dealer--no cost to me. Therefore, can't really complain except surprised that a battery would die so soon.
  • slickwilliedjslickwilliedj Member Posts: 252
    mine died at approx 34months and 25,000 miles my dealer replaced mine free under warranty also. I had the same situation occur when mine died aswell. no warning. i was out doing errands and came home and went to go somewhere and totally dead! even the lights in the truck were flickering. I jump started it and would barley stay running. I had drive it two footed all the way to the dealer. I guess this truck really depends on that battery to run!
  • datagurudataguru Member Posts: 95
    Haven't logged-in for awhile, so thought I would share an update with fellow owners.

    After 5,100 miles, the QC is settling down nicely. Initial minor noises with brakes/pads and suspension have disappeared after break-in period. Only tire/road noises and gas sloshing in the tank when coming to a stop remain. Paint quality (a few bare white spots in various locations) is being addressed by the dealer under factory warranty. In the past month, I noticed at cold start-up, the engine wants to stall when shifting the auto trans (5-45RFE) from Park into Reverse and Neutral. It's only noticeable when cold. Anyone else have this situation?

    With the 3.92 ratio, my gas mileage is averaging 21MPG (CDN gallons) or when converted approx 16.8MPG (US gallons) for 50% City/Highway driving. I am a sedate driver with only a few full/partial throttles when inspired. I'm still hoping for gas mileage to improve as the rings complete the seating process.

    Cheers,
    dataguru
  • slr9589slr9589 Member Posts: 121
    Hi,
    my 00,4.7,5 spd,2wd Quad lost it's original battery at 54,000 miles.it lost charge while sitting in a garage for 4 days,then ran well for one month before having total failure.
    wal-mart to the rescue!!!!
    stephen
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Just a reminder, on Dakotas, Durangos, and RAMs the "IOD fuse" (Ignition-off Draw) should be removed if storage up to thirty-days is anticipated. This fuse feeds the memory (keep-alive) and sleep mode functions for the various computer systems in the vehicle, including the radio and clock. The IOD current should not exceeed 35 milliamperes (0.035 amps).

    On late model Dakotas and Durangos the IOD fuse is located in cavity 12 of the JB junction block. This is the electrical distribution panel located on the drivers side of the instrument panel.

    CAUTION: The fuse should be removed with the ignition switch in the off position only.

    There have been enough reports in these Dodge truck forums to indicate some premature battery failure is occuring. (I consider a battery failing in 4 years or less "premature.")

    I am being told that battery failures in other vehicles, mostly those built by Ford and GM, also see this situation. I have a neighbor that had a battery failure on his 2002 Venture just a month or so ago.

    While some batteries appear to be going a more respectable 5-7 years, a certain population is not. In Dodge trucks, eminent battery failure can be indicated by some strange and not normally intuitive conditions, like rough idle, weird and inconsistent shifting of the transmission, random unrepeatable codes, and even stalling.

    If you are experiencing strange and irregular symptoms, check the battery terminal voltage after a 20 minute rest from being charged with the vehicle for 30 minutes or more. For this test the battery must be disconnected immediately after being charged. A new battery should measure at least 12.6 volts after the rest. The older a battery is the more the terminal voltage will drop, but at 12.4 volts after an one hour rest is generally telling you that you've lost about 25% of charge. This is at the borderline of battery health.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    When storing our vehicles for any longer term (20 days or more), I always utilize an automatic "float charger." For instance, my wife's Jeep Wrangler is in the garage in our FL home and hasn't been used since the end of June. We are flying down for a week in the latter part of October and I know that the float charger will keep the battery in peak condition. Of course, if the battery fails for other reasons, the charger will not help. I even wired these in to work in conjunction with the engine block heater. They are a good investment.

    Bookitty
  • arnie82arnie82 Member Posts: 27
    Bought my New 2003 Quad Cab Sport in Flame Red w/ slate interior. It has the 24X (SXT) package w/ black bumpers, 8" wide wheels, wheel flares tilt,cruise,& CD.
    It also has the HD service pkg and anti spin rear end.
    Reading earlier posts it sounds as if there are two different gear ratios for the rear axle, is that right?
    Regardless I'm real happy with the truck and the deal.
    Looking forward to the discussion on the Quad Cab board.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The 8.25 axle is available in 3.21 and 3.55 ratios. I'm not sure if there is a 3.91 in this version.

    The 9.25 is available in 3.55 and 3.91 ratios.

    Both the 8.25 and 9.25 axles are available with Trac-Lock (limited slip).

    Good luck with the new Dakota.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    What make and model of float charger do you have?

    That's what I'd like to use on the tractor and ATV, but a swipe through Sears a while back turned up nothing.

    Bests,
    Dusty
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Dusty, I buy the float chargers from Harbor Freight.
    http://www.harborfreight.com. The cost is $7.49. If you go to their website, type in "float charger" on the keyword search. Orders of $50.00 or more get free freight. I have purchased stuff from them for years and have been satisfied.

    Bookitty
  • fenwayfrankfenwayfrank Member Posts: 6
    I saw a used 2001 4wd, 4.7L V8 Club Cab for sale and liked the Truck, only thing that worried me was that the mileage is 75K! That's an awful lot for a 2 year old truck! Otherwise it was mint! The asking price matches up pretty close to what the various appraisal tools say.
    Does anyone have any strong feelings one way or the other about buying a higher mileage Dakota, and do you think the appraisal tools are accurate for the actual value of the truck?
    Thanks,
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, I wouldn't have many reservations on a used '01 Dakota. The engines are excepionally reliable, and in particulat the 4.7 motor I don't believe has registered any common maladies. If you have the 4.7, the automatic transmission will be the 545RFE and that, too, has so far proven to be exceptionally reliable.

    I think the four-wheel drive componentry is pretty sound as well. Nothing comes to mind that bears mentioning. About the only thing that might be troublesome with that many miles would be brake pads, calipers and rotors. If true, there are some highly recommended high quality aftermarket stuff that will take care of these issues. There have been a couple of people that have replaced front suspension components -- namely ball joints -- but I can't remember if they were 4WD or not.

    I have seen a number of Dakotas with mileage over 150k that have been very reliable. The major systems (engine, drivetrain) seem to be rock solid. I know of a couple that have over 200k that are still going strong. It is quite likely that this Dakota you are looking at has gathered mostly highway miles. Those are usually a lot easier on the mechanicals that city or around town miles.

    Best of luck,
    Dusty
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    Have a mechanic check it over if you are serious and have any problems he/she finds fixed as part of the purchase agreement. Maybe you can get them to throw in a warranty too! Rick
  • indychapellindychapell Member Posts: 35
    check engine light came on the other day. checked for code. p0442 came up. appreciate a explanation on what this code means.
  • delfaverdelfaver Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 dodge dakota Quad cab SLX 4x4. 47K miles.

    Four weeks ago I had the electronics and solonoid replaced. (Had to have sales manager proove to maintennace I bought the 75K mile extended warranty.)Ten days later the solonoid on the emissions contol needed to preplaced. A week later half way between NC and MD the truck just died. After waiting on the side of the road for 6.5 hours with my 7 & 5 yr old sons it finally got towed (I thought I bought the "Gold Card" extended warranty to not have to go through that). Then got charged (after staying in a hotel overnight $$ & missing work the next day $$) $175 for getting a new battery.

    I have purchased my last Dodge Vehicle and service agreement.
  • delfaverdelfaver Member Posts: 3
    Oh, yea, forgot the extra $50.00 I had to pay to get the car towed to the dealership because of the distance.
  • delfaverdelfaver Member Posts: 3
    Last one I promise. In each of the trips that began with a slipping transmission I was charged the $100.00 deductable. The cost of my repairs while under the extended warranty were in the neighbor hood of $984.00. It irritates me to no end that the battery is a known issue from the statements on this board and dodge did/does nothing about it. I have also lost 17.5 hours of work for a loss to me of $612.50.

    Cost of repairs while under warranty $984.00
    Lost work due to repairs $612.00
    Trading it in on Ford F150 quad Cab $TBD
    Getting on the internet and telling the world about it and getting dodge where they got me, in the wallet: Priceless.
  • kingquad1kingquad1 Member Posts: 37
    sorry to hear about all your problems, especially the extended warranty! I didn't bother to get one. I am at 46000 miles now, had replaced the battery and had the rotors and pads replaced. The pads were down to metal!
    All in all, I can't/won't complain about this truck! first Dodge product I ever owned and it certainly won't be the last! I wish all my GM vehicles in the last 25 years were as good!
    I personally never had good luck with Ford products, but know people who have.
  • fenwayfrankfenwayfrank Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the insight Dusty, Its a 5 spd. It was my feeling as well that it is likely that most miles were highway to put on that many in such a short time. I worry that it towed a trailer around the country for two years. I guess there is no sure way to tell if that was the case.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Sure there is a SURE way of knowing... if it does not have a trailerhitch... it was NOT doing any towing ;-)

    Here in Vermont... the big deal is NOT towing... the question is "Was it used for plowing snow" One season of plowing snow can really wear out a truck. The odometer may say 25K miles.. but the drivetrain is totally shot.

     Good thing one can earn several thousand dollars a day plowing.

    ($40 for an avg driveway.... one can do at least 100 driveways in 24 hours) dont bother going to work because the cashflow is better after a snowstorm.
  • fenwayfrankfenwayfrank Member Posts: 6
    Is there a tell tale spot on the front end where I could tell if a plow was attached to the truck?
    p.s. How about those Red Sox!
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    If the Dakota has a 2" receiver look inside the receiver part. Most of the trailer hitch receivers are a sloppy fit. You should see wear from rubbing and rusting inside the receptacle. Check the hole where the pin goes through the hitch and and the receiver. If the Dakota towed a lot the hole should also show wear where the pin was rubbing. If it pulled a heavy load for many trips the hole would show signs of getting egg shaped where the pin took up the load under acceleration and braking. Rick
  • fenwayfrankfenwayfrank Member Posts: 6
    Thanks Rick, I'll check it out.
    Are there any similar tell tales if the truck was used as a snow plow?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I'm not familar with actual hook-ups on the Dakota, but I would think that you would spot outlines of the mounting bracketry and other hardware for the plow frame on the front of the truck frame.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • jd332dakotajd332dakota Member Posts: 12
    I have learned a whole lot on this awesome forum. Even while deployed in Iraq!! After reading many messages I have put together my first truck purchase. '04 Quad Cab SLT Plus 2WD w/ 26H package. A few concerns, does it come standard with the 8.25 axle w/ 3.21 ratio limited slip diff? Can I get the AHC Trailor Tow Group with the 26H option? Does a special ordered truck generally cost more than if I bought it off the lot? The True Market Value of this truck with all options is 22,739. What should I pay? And finally, does anyone out there have the Graphite Metallic/Bright Silver colored dakota, I'd love to see how it looks.Thanks for your help. JD332dakota
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    By the way, I have a son that is currently serving with the US Army in Iraq. He's in the northern sector of Bhagdad.

    I went to the Dodge web page and from what I can tell the 2004 2WD Dakota Quad Cab will come standard with a conventional differential in the corporate 8.25 axle, 3.55 ratio. Despite plugging in different combinations, it looks like the 3.55 axle ratio is standard on the Quad. It also looks like the 9.25 axle is no longer available in that version. Limited slip differential is another $135.

    As far as your question regarding the 26H package......I don't know. They just changed the web pages and navigation has deteriorated considerably. I can't even spell HTML and I think I could do better than the latest web layout.

    I happen to have a 2003 Club Cab in the bright silver with the bright silver wheels. When I first saw this truck it seemed to have a natural appeal and has since grown on me. I originally wanted either black or red, with the dark blue my third choice. I wasn't even considering any of the earth tones at the time. Of course, I chose this one because it had some of the basic equipment that I wanted. Despite the fact that the name "Dodge" appears on it, I've received an overwhelming amount of good compliments on the vehicle. Most women and guys alike seem to think this Dakota looks very good.

    I have seen a few SXTs with the bright silver body color and the graphite grille and flairs. It doesn't exactly appeal to me, but taste for everyone is subjective anyway.

    As far as price goes, my 2003 Club Cab Sport Plus with the 26C package (4.7 engine, 5-speed auto, LSD, 16x8.0 wheels, P245 tires, PS, PB, cruise, air, sliding window, fog lamps, keyless entry, AM'FM/Cassette,CD) listed at $22,535. I paid $17,800 in October of last year, no incentive packages available. Maybe that model 1911A1 I was wearing made the difference!! (just kidding).

    If I can help you some more, let me know. I'll try to find out about the 26H package and get back to you later.

    Please keep yourself safe.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • jd332dakotajd332dakota Member Posts: 12
    Thanks Dusty for your quick response, I hope your son stays safe as well. It is a little crazy over here as I'm sure you know.

    That price was with a $2500 rebate, I'm hoping for some good deals when we return. Anything else I should know before taking the plunge? Should I have my wife order it or wait? Can you tell I'm anxious,-been reading good things about this truck.

    Thanks for your help-jd332dakota
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    JD, my son is M1 Abrams tank crew, usually the driver. He's probably as safe as one could be as long as he is in that tank. His crew has the US Army's shortest loader, but this guy makes it possible to fire, load, and re-fire in just over three seconds. No one seems to make fun of this guys size. In his last letter he said that he's been on a lot of guard duty. In civian life he sometimes took unnecessary risks. I worry.

    Since you specifically asked about the 26H package, you must be looking at the SLT+.

    Package definitions:

    B = Sport (base model)
    C = Sport Plus
    G = SLT
    H = SLT+
    X = SXT

    I'm not sure what other equipment you are considering. Without knowing where you live, I would highly recommend the limited slip differential. Because I have the Sport Plus, I have the equivilent of the AGB package, which is the 16x8 wheels, P255 tires, and front and rear sway bars. I've driven SLTs and although they ride noticeably softer, I really like the increased ride height and handling of the AGB components, and the ride is still good. This is an option I would recommend.

    If I ordered a Dakota I would also opt for the heavy duty service group (ADJ), which includes larger capacity radiator, power sterering cooler, aux. transmission cooler, and 750-amp battery.

    I think with your 26H package everything else is covered. You will like the 287 engine (4.7) and the 545RFE is about the smoothest transmission I've ever driven.

    Good luck, my friend, and keep your head down. If I can help in anyway, just message me.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (jd332dakota) Although they may try to tell you otherwise.... Ordering a vehicle to your specifications should cost LESS than purchasing off of the lot. Using various websites, you can figure out EXACTLY what the dealership is paying for the vehicle you order and you can offer them a generous 4% profit on the deal.

    The reason is because when you order one, The only thing the dealership has to do is submit an order. It is a GUARANTEED SALE for them. (you allready agreed to purchase the vehicle.) Allso, you will only order what you WANT... not expensive options that you would prefer NOT to have. The vehicle arrives with YOUR NAME on window sticker. (mine said... "This truck built for Bruce Peebles" 8-)

    A vehicle on the lot is always a 'gamble' for a dealership... they pick the options and order it BEFORE there is a customer ready to buy it. They often select option-packages that bring THEM the most money on a sale. (options that many folks would prefer not to have.) Then, the longer it sits unsold... the more it costs the dealership. (this is the way the pricing to the dealership is set up from the factory to entice quick sales of vehicles on the lot.)
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Beside what Bruce offered, the dealer also avoids the factory floor plan costs. Sometimes, they must be reminded.

    Bookitty
  • jd332dakotajd332dakota Member Posts: 12
    Bruce, you wouldn't be interested in sharing some of them websites would you? Ya see I can't 'surf' where I'm at and I am limited to the time I spend online. Just get me started and I'm gone. Do I order right from a Dodge WebSite or go through a dealer. Dusty gave me insight on some mechanical issues, I think I know what I want, only remaining concern is color and what it will look like delivered! Thanks, JD
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Of course, you should look right here at the great Edmunds website. Also try some of these websites too;

    http://www.nadaguides.com/
    http://www.carsatcost.com/home.html
    http://www.kbb.com/
  • datagurudataguru Member Posts: 95
    Help...has anyone come across this situation?

    After starting the vehicle with the engine idling, with the intermittent wipers activated at stage 1, headlights OFF (emergency brakes ON), fog lamps OFF, transmission in PARK...the fog lights would flash once whenever the wipers activated. This situation continued with the headlights ON while driving until I turned OFF the intermittent wipers. It just started to do this 2 nights ago. 2003 Model QC 4.7L auto with 5,200 miles.

    Does this sound like a short circuit somewhere? Any suggestions to resolve is muchly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance,
    dataguru
  • kramerkrause2kramerkrause2 Member Posts: 1
    Dataguru...

    Does this sound similar...

    After driving for 15-20 minutes my 2001 QC would randomly honk horn/wipe wipers, cycle door locks, and flash high/low beams. It would happen at highway speeds or stopped in intersections. Took it into Dealer, they looked at it one day and tried to recreate problem, no luck. Went home to regroup. After third day, I also noticed that it was turning lights on/off in same random fashion. This was too much, so back it went. They were finally able to reproduce trouble and replaced the master timing module. I'm picking it up in the a.m. and I'll get the exact replacement part No. Hope this helps with your problem. Although, yours sounds a little different. Anyway, my 2001 QC; 4.7, 5 spd, all options but leather is the best vehicle that I have ever owned.
  • furrydog1furrydog1 Member Posts: 35
    Bought a QUAD 4x4, 4.7, 3.55 Flame Red Dakota back in 12/01. We now have 37K miles and have had only one problem. The front sway bar was squeaking pretty bad so my buddy who is a Dodge Truck mechanic replaced it for us under warranty. So far the brakes have held up but probably need to be turned. The 4.7 is still running smoothly and no oil loss yet. The transmission is smooth but every so often we get a weird clunk when it shifts. The truck is my wife's vehicle and she LOVES her truck. We live in CO and have driven it all over the state and longer cross country trips and have been completely happy with it. Of course we would like better mileage. On our longer trips I have checked the mileage and it varies between 14.5 and 20 MPG. Usually get the lower mileage when I'm doing 75-85 MPH and can get 18-20 MPG when I'm cruising b/w 60-70 MPH.
    A lot of the problems I have read about on this board I thankfully haven't experienced. At 30k my buddy replaced all of the fluids, put in new plugs and did a radiator and fuel system flush with BG 44k or whatever it's called.
    I hope the good performance continues b/c I would like to keep this for at least 10-12 years or 200k miles. I hate car payments and investments that lose their value as soon as you purchase it so I am in no hurry to reapeat the process.
    When we were initially looking at buying a Quad I wanted the Tacoma but my wife felt it was too small. I hate to say it, but I'm glad she won out. I think we would have been crammed for space for many of our road trips with 3 dogs, 3 people, 3 bikes, 2 ice chests, luggage, etc.
    I guess that's enough rambling for now.
  • furrydog1furrydog1 Member Posts: 35
    Forgot to mention that we bought our Quad brand new and it is a 2002.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I was going to suggest the Central Timing Module (master timing module), since it is the only thing that has an influence on all your symptoms.

    I think I remember reading about the clutch pedal rubbing on an electrical harness on Dakotas, so that might be relayed, too.

    Best of luck,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    You say that the front sway bar was replaced for a squeak. Did your technician explain to you how or why the sway bar caused this? I could understand the sway bar bushings, or the links, but I'm scratching my head on how the bar could do this. Just curious.

    So far this is one of those commonly heard complaints about Dakotas I haven't experienced...yet. I do occasionally get a snapping sound that I'm sure is coming from the rear somewhere. I am suspecting the rear sway bar for that.

    Continued good luck with your Quad,
    Dusty
  • furrydog1furrydog1 Member Posts: 35
    I misspoke. The only thing that was replaced were the rubber bushings, not the whole rod. He said there was a known problem with the bushings and when he showed them to me they were cracked. Haven't heard any noises since they were replaced.
  • datagurudataguru Member Posts: 95
    Mark and Dusty,

    thanks for your valuable feedback. I'll have the CTM checked out at the dealership.

    While under the vehicle on the weekend, I noticed the exhaust system has a blue/violet burnt colour on certain sections of the factory "composite stainless-like" muffler and head pipes. There is clear delineation on sections of the muffler where the baffled chambers start and end (due to the violet/blue colour). Is this normal or is there excessive heat build up in the muffler which may backup to damage the O2 sensors and engine prematurely? The local muffler shop suggests to have it checked by the dealer.

    Any comments?
  • haselhasel Member Posts: 64
    dont worry its normal, hasel
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I would think if there was a problem in this particular area you would be getting a "Check Engine" lamp illumination and find a trouble code. Exhaust temperature is being measured (in effect) by the Engine Control Module, and if out of range would throw up a code i'm pretty sure.

    I never noticed any color change on mine, but in all honesty I was never under it until it was nearly a year old.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • ayakayak Member Posts: 7
    MIL came on first thing this morning. Stopped and restarted, still on. It sat all day, but was still on going home. Restarted a few times. Didn't help. Sounds and runs fine. Did not notice or hear anything different once home, and having a chance to look around. Did a road trip to parents house this past weekend, 300 miles each way, no problems, Monday it was fine. It is a 2001 Quad, 4x4, 4.7L, 38,000 miles. Any suggestions prior to taking it to the dealer would be appreciated. Not under warranty any more.
  • ferousferous Member Posts: 226
    Flip your key from off to on to off to on to off to on and then read the P-code that will display on the odometer readout. This will narrow down the reason codes for the MIL light. You can look the code up on several web sites if you search for "Dodge P-Codes". I combined the P-codes to a one sheet printout that I keep in my center console for reference.
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