Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

chiefdoc2 · October 2000

I ordered/received the following:
4x4
5 speed
lsd
standard rear end
16in wheels
tilt/cruise, leather wheel
middle stereo (cd without changer)
skid plates
bronze

(MANUAL door locks/side mirrors; no alarm thing [no one pays the slightest attention to them anyway]; manual windows)

This truck is for my wife (I have my Chev 2500 4x4) so didn't need the tow or heavy duty stuff. She loves a 5sp and we drive over 5 miles of gravel road daily. This is also our long distance vehicle (tilt/cruise). I've had too much trouble with the sliding rear window in past trucks to ever want another besides the ease of breaking into them by thieves.

Good luck and ordering is a blast! Then comes the frustration of waiting for build and delivery but you get the truck YOU want, not something off the lot.

ONLY negative thing about the QC so far is the ridiculously difficult task of releasing the wench cable retainer from the spare tire; have to lower tire to the ground then RAISE up one side and reach UNDER to turn retainer sideways and slip through wheel hub hole. My chev's retainer is rectangular (not round) and with tire laying on ground I can easily reach in from the TOP and remove the cable. This was a real ergonomics/human factors design mistake by DC.

steve234 · October 2000

I would fill to the mark on the dipstick. I would then have a talk with my dealer's shop foreman and get their opinion. If the dipstick is wrong, they owe you a dipstick that is correct. If the book is wrong, you need it in writing. I still have not changed my oil myself since the last one was a freebie from the dealer. I am getting ready to switch to synthetic in a couple of weeks and will get some answers for myself. If no one has a difinitive answer by then, I will post what I get from my dealer. My suspicion is that it is a misprint. The 4.7 probably has a 5 qt sump and it was written as 6 qt by someone thinking about the 5.9. That is my story and I might stick with it.

bpeebles: You are right. Why I wrote EGR when I knew it was the PCV, is beyond me. I am like that with talking too. It is one of the reasons why I can associate with GW. I like what one guy told me; when your brain is so cluttered with knowledge, it is easy to trip over it.

bobs5 · October 2000

thanks chiefdoc2.
I hear you on the spare tire underneath (had an 83 ranger) and it was kind of a pain to access, I finally kept in in the bed, the truck had a cap for security.

I have a few of questions for anyone who knows or wishes to respond.

What is the largest tire which can fit without rubbing?

Anyone put a lift kit on their Quad?

What are the pros and cons of 4 wheel antilock brakes? (I never drove a vehicle before with this system)

For towing purposes which is better to get, the 5sp or the automatic tranny? (maybe a small boat in the future, say about 3k lbs, for boat and trailer.) I am kind of leaning towards the auto.

Which axle ratio would be better to get? (for light towing and possible lift kit and larger tires)

Thank you.

cetris · October 2000

I have the 4.7 with the 4 spd auto and have noticed it won't shift into O/D (4th) until I drive about 3 miles or so - it has happened every morning this week. The morning temperatures here have been in the 40's this week, so I am assuming that is the cause. Once it warms up a little it seems fine. Anybody else noticing this?

Thanks.

iowabigguy · October 2000

I bought a heavy duty rubber mat (about 1/2" thick) from a RV dealer when I bought my new full size Ford pickup in 1987. I used the mat until 1993 when I replaced the Ford with a Dakota Club Cab. I trimmed the mat to fit the smaller Dakota bed and used it again until 2000 when I replaced my CC with a new Quad Dakota. I shortened the bed mat again to fit the smaller Dakota bed. The mat has been used continuously for over 13 years and appears similar to new other than a dulling of the finish. The underside of the mat has numerous small buttons in triangular patterns with the sides of the triangles about 1" (this is all part of the molded mat) that protrude maybe 1/8 - 3/16" below the bottom of the mat. These protrusion keep moisture from becoming trapped under the mat however their down side is in my Dakota the protrusions over the 6 years of use wore through the paint and down to the primer. This didn't appear to be as much of a problem on the Ford but that was before the reformulated paint too! I never had any rust but I've always had fiberglas toppers on the trucks. Rick

tuvtest · October 2000

here's some answers... correction, opinions on your questions.
- 31x10.5/R15 or P265/70R16 depending on your rim size. I moved up to 32x11.5/R15 and do have slight (and I do mean slight)rubbing, nothing that can't be quickly and unobtrusively fixed with a file.
- There has been talk of a lift kit by someone here, but I can't remember who.
- ABS pros- shorter,safer,more controlled stops on all surfaces, in some cases lower insurance rates. Cons- about $500, which to me really isn't a con, as it is a good price compared to other cars, and more computerized stuff to go wrong. IMHO there is no question ABS wins.
- Dodge does not recommend towing with the Auto trans with the overdrive engaged. I belive it is because of the lock-up torque converter cannot handle the extra load. The 5-spd allows towing in overdrive, so MPG will be better. There is also the $900 cost for the auto, but this choice might be better left up to your left leg.
- Ratios I would lean towards the 3.92 of you plan to go with a much taller tire, to help keep up your lowend grunt.
- one last minor thing to consider, the ECM can only be adjusted for certain tire sizes. You might want to check with the dealer before you pick a size to be sure that they can set the ECM for it. This comes into play as the ECM controls your speedo, odo, and also ABS.

crazycanuck · October 2000

This has probably already been asked, but
does anyone know what color changes DC has made
for the 2001 model? I checked the web site but
the colors appear different than you see on the
vehicle normally. Also, is the lighter color
headliner standard...ie...do you have to have it?

Thanks.

stnick · October 2000

Cetris, what I believe you are experiencing is not your overdrive not kicking in but your torque converter not engaging until the engine reaches a certain temp. I thought when mine first did it that it was the overdrive, but if you push your OD lockout button, I think you will see your rpm increase significantly. This seems to happen when ambient air is below 45 to 50 on mine, perfectly normal I'm sure for better drivability. If I'm wrong, correct me, the wife does all the time. stnick

akula2 · October 2000

Greetings,

I currently have a 3" lift installed on my 01 Quad. I purchased it from the dealer with the kit already installed by California Concepts.They did a great job with the lift but they are pricey if you go to them directly. I checked on Rancho Suspensions website and they also sell a 3" lift for the Quad Cab; I think it sells for approx. $600. I recommend getting the lift done because it looks great especially with 32X11.50R15 BF Goodrich T/A Radials on them.

asta · October 2000

Your post couldn't have come at a better time. I stopped by the dealership today and they had the 2001 bedmat for the quad in stock so I bought it! I figure I can always spray the Line-x sometime down the line if the bed gets tweaked from use. Plus, just like you said, I can keep this mat for a long time and use it even with the Line-X. I'm glad to hear you didn't get any rust or moisture problems, although I will not have a cap (probably a roll n lock cover though) I asked if they had a bed tray but they don't offer that for the dak quad, at least not Mopar. Maybe 3rd party does. Haven't even had time to fit the mat in but I'm stoked to try it out with my gear (surf. snow, etc) thanks for your relating your positive experience.

tuvtest ( or was it towcrazy2>) - thanks for the tip on the paint seale. I went back and checked out the thread on the accessories board. A local detail guy I use said that there's really no sealant or wax or anything to truly protect the paint from places like Baja and true off-road use like I;ll be doing. He did say he could apply a liquid sealant that was stronger than wax (didn't catch the name but I'll go back and ask him what he had in mind) he said to wait for the paint to cure as well. 2-3 months was his advice.

Dave.

iowabigguy · October 2000

You said "- one last minor thing to consider, the ECM can only be adjusted for certain tire sizes. "

I don't know if this is necessarily correct. The BOB (shop manual) indicated if tire size is changed you have to program the computer for the number of revolutions the new tire size makes in one mile. The manual then went on and gave the revs per mile for the standard tires. I am making an educated guess here but I would think that if you figured out the number of revolutions your new tire made, even though it varied from the factory size you could have the dealer program that value into the computer. I suspect there are probably high and low limits programmed but I can't help but think the programmer expected that people would want to modify their trucks by installing larger tires. Now if you wanted to make your Quad into a BigFoot clone that probably won't work but if you are going from a 31" tire to a 32" tire I'd bet that would be programmable. Rick

bitterooter · October 2000

I wanted to say thankyou for the help on checking the status of my ordered Dakota. I will try and get the information tomorrow. Thanks
Bookitty and Tuvtest

bobs5 · October 2000

tuvtest - thank you for your advice. I won't know if I will "need" larger tires or lift kit, until I take the truck to our favorite camping spot in upstate new york. It is a nonmaintained unimproved road with ruts, low spots, and a stream to cross with plenty of slippery rocks. I like manual trannys, been using one for the last 10 years, but there are times that my left knee says "get an automatic".

akula2 - That sounds really nice with 3" lift and 32" tires.
Did you order it with the lift kit or was this something on their lot?
special order?
Does this lift kit void the manufacturers warranty in any way?
Which axle ratio do you have?
How much ground clearance do you have?

ABS question - What happens if the ABS fails for some unknown reason? Do you have any brakes at all? Does it revert to the "standard" braking system?

Those of you who have the auto tranny... Are you happy with the performance?, any problems?

cetris · October 2000

Stnick- This is my first auto and I am on a bit of a learning curve regarding exactly how a 4 spd auto w/two 2nd gears and an OD works. I have watched my tach and know that at 50 MPH the motor is spinning about 1500 RPM if I am already in top gear....I guess this would be 4th. If it hasn't made the last shift (like when it is cold or I manually disable OD via the button) then the motor is spinning something closer to 2000R RPM at 50 MPH. I thought shifting into 4th and the torque converter lockup generally occurred more-or-less simultaneously. Maybe this isn't so.

When the weather is colder and I am driving those first few miles in the morning, I count the shifts and I thought since it had only made the 1>2 and the 2>3 shifts, that it must not be doing the 3>4 shift. Is the torque converter lockup and the 3>4 shift necessarily simultaneous? Does the torque converter only lockup in top gear? I dunno...my head hurts. I like to understand things "technical", and have been looking for a source of info on this transmission, but so far I haven't found a lot. I appreciate the info.

Thanks.

steve234 · October 2000

Defintely get the automatic. The torque converter puts a lot more power to the wheels in initial pulling. When pulling a boat up the ramp, this can be a big help. It is also a lot easier to go up a steep slick ramp because you do not have to worry about riding the clutch to prevent wheel spin. You can tow in overdrive as long as you are not in hilly country. It depends on the weight of the trailer and the slope of the road, but as long as the engine is not lugging, or the transmission is not hunting, you would normally be OK. I pull a 4500 lb boat and believe me you will not regret having an automatic for towing. BTW ABS does great. You need to try a panic stop or two after you get the brakes broke in if you have not had ABS before. The pulsing feeling can be disconcerting the first time.

steve234 · October 2000

The torque lockup is for higher speed operation. It can occur can occur with or without the overdrive off. It usually occurs around 45 mph, but the actual engage point is dependent of how hard you accelerate. An automatic operates nmore efficiently when the oil is above a certain temperature. To achieve this temperature faster, the torque converter will nto engage until the oil reaches that temperature

bobs5 · October 2000

Thanks steve234.
I believe that an automatic will be easier for me to get towing experience, especially backing down a boat ramp. I live in the congested new jersey area and sometimes traffic can be terrible. I work wierd hours just so I can avoid the rush hours.

A friend has a 16' aluminum boat and we towed that to florida and back on a vacation. I had no trouble going forward, it is the backing up that takes me several attempts to get correct. Practice makes perfect I guess.

andy_jordan · October 2000

Those who know me probably saw this coming, but.....

I must disagree 100% with some of this stuff. Dodge has a horrendous reputation for automatic trannies. Whilst Dodge automatics may not be the best in the business there is one over riding reason why automatics fail early (regardless of manufacturer) and that is owner abuse. The worst kind of abuse - towing in overdrive. Period. End of story. Sure you can get away with it easier with less weight, and less slopes, but why risk it?? Gas is expensive, but the extra gas used is a whole lot cheaper than replacing the tranny.

As for automatics being better than manuals for towing - to each his own - give me a stick shift and an LSD any day of the week. If an automatic better suits your lifestyle or driving experience then that is fine - but don't blame a stick shift for those deificiencies. I frequently use my truck in areas where traction is marginal - that's why I drive manual - try doing a second gear start with an automatic!!

As for 2 wheel vs. 4 wheel abs - I have done that too many years to repeat again.

Rant over.

bobs5 · October 2000

"Dodge has a horrendous reputation for automatic trannies"
Can you provide a link or any other factual information to prove this claim? Does this include the tranny which is mated to the 4.7L engine?

andy_jordan · October 2000

Well, I could if I really had to - but read through the various topics in the truck forums comparing different brands - the topic comes up often enough, and I have posted plenty of things there in the past.

As for the 4.7 - it is a 'new' tranny, and Dodge has certainly learned from its mistakes, but about a year or so ago Daimler Chrysler put together a task force to redesign Dodge trannies. They were specifically told to start with a blank piece of paper - 0% reuse of existing designs. Make of that what you will. The first output will be seen in the Ram redesign.

bookitty · October 2000

Andy, your post was as usual, to the point, factual and intelligent. Despite any condition including downhill, one should not tow in overdrive with an automatic transmission. There is a point in the science of fluidics, when the fluid is not properly circulated to provide proper lubrication due to a low RPM condition (overdrive) and the load is still present. It has absolutely nothing to do with sufficient power or the strength of the engine, but is directly related to what is happening internally within the torque converter. I cannot comment on the Dodge automatic transmissions, because I have never had one. Other than that you are right on target.

Bookitty

wetwillie · October 2000

throw in with A_J on the virtues of a stick. Even for towing - they absolutely put more power to the wheels than an auto. The heat generated by the auto tranny and torque converter are directly related to wasted energy - hence the increased performance (i.e. acceleration) and efficiency (read:MPG) with a manual. The only reason I could see for choosing an auto for towing would be your comfort level with one and/or if your sharing the driving with someone that doesn't know how, or want to know how to drive a stick.

knkresort · October 2000

One other note, the really big rigs all use manual transmissions. The bottom line is that it is more efficient and more power, but more work for the driver. Personally, I prefer to "drive" my truck, not just steer it.

KnK

steve234 · October 2000

As much as I respect the above ranters, it is a fact that automatics are better for towing. The problem with a stick in towing is at takeoff. You cannot get a standard to have the same amount of torque at the low rpms that an automatic can produce. In a lot of vehicles, you cannot get a standard rated as high as the automatics for towing. Backing down a ramp with a stick is also a major pain. Even the best can find it difficult at times to clutch, brake and throttle all at the same time while manuevering.
The argument that you always get better mileage with a stick is an old wives tale that has not been true for decades. Some expert drivers can get a little better mileage with a stick, but todays autos are more efficient than the average driver with a stick. Once the torque converter has locked up, it is the same mechanical efficiency as a standard. Very small cars may do better with a standard because they are small enough fo the added weight to detract, but most of them are manual for cost.
As for reliability, today's automatic is very reliable. Automatics get bad reputations because most vehicles have automatics and they are more attractive to inexperienced drivers. Whenever an automatic goes bad, it is a bigger headache to diagnose and getting a good repairman to fix. This is normal because they are more mechanically complex. My previous two tow vehicles, the standard lunched at 80K, the automatic went over 130K. Same body and setup, different years and trannies.

As far as the nonsense about big rigs using manuals, there are many commercial trucks that use automatics. The only reason that manuals are standard on most semis is the numer of gears needed. A semi does not have that big of an engine, they use 13+ gears to keep the diesel engine in the power range. To get that many gears in an automatic would be very bulky and expensive. I have driven enough of everything to have plenty of experience towing and hauling. I like manuals for certain applications, but for every day driving and towing, the automatic is too nice to ignore.

As far as the automatic in with the 4.7, they started with a clean sheet for both. In the Rams they will use this transmission with the 4.7, but the upcoming high output 4.7 and the 5.7 are going to use the MB truck transmission. It is also rumored that the next generation diesel engine will use the Allison automatic used by GM.

tmatthew · October 2000

Steve234
I agree wholeheartedly.....I ride in a fire truck for a living...big, heavy, full of water, driven under extreme conditions and I havn't seen one with a manual tranny in decades!!

sorcerer · October 2000

Just placed my order!
In about 3-4 weeks I should be drivin' a:
2001 Dak Quad 4x4 sport
White
4.7L auto
3.92 lsd
T&H, Towing, HD cooling
leather
all the power goodies
Basically everything except:
4w ABS - don't care for while Off Roading
FT 4wd - no need

Gonna have a spray in liner done as soon as I get it, & a Roll 'n Lock top put on soon as well.

Too excited to wait that long...

Thanks to everyone here for all the great advice!

Stephen

spike50 · October 2000

Not an expert but my '00 came with the 6x9 heated, folding mirrors and the other part of the package was the solid, tinted, defrost equipped rear window. Love the heated mirrors and rear defrost. Also the tinted "everything aft" looks sharp.

Did read in Edmunds somewhere that some '01 trucks had untinted defrost equipped rear windows but the rear doors were. I wouldn't take the truck if it looked like that. Seems like they're just throwing things together to sell trucks. Its like Party Mix - all of the left overs.

Also agree with not being able to reach the back window to easily operate a slider. Only problem is when the rear door windows are down, any amount, you get a air driven harmonic drumming inside the cab. Annoying.

spike50 · October 2000

Volvo's attempt at PVC was nothing but problems for me. Their system was way too aggressive at the "suck" end and I routinely got 160 miles to the quart of oil on this new wagon. This also quickly fouled the aft two plugs (4 cyl) and just took the joy out of driving.

Eventually got it under control but the 13 years I spent with that wagon taught me a lot about vehicles when I could've been having fun.

carls5 · October 2000

Hi there, I just got back for taking a 5 day trip from San Ramon CA to Reno then out the back way to Lake Tahoe and home. Put 676 miles on the truck for a total of 8200 miles. Statistics for the trip.

I changed my oil at 500 miles then again before taking the trip to Mobil 1 around 7500 miles. I am driving a 00 QC with 4.7 auto, 3.92 and T&H. For approx. 60% of the total trip I was using cruise control set at 68 MPH. Very seldom went over 75 and then only for a short period of time to pass someone. Slowed down somewhat going through the mountains I hit some commute traffic going through Sacto but no stop and go. Coming out of Reno and going to Lake Tahoe I hit a long detour thanks to CalTrans clearing boulder off the road side. Delayed for around 30 min and then caravaned with escort through a back road for around 10 miles going 5 miles an hour. I also did some sight seeing while in Reno driving around the country side. Total 17.4 MPG for the trip based on the computer. I have found that the computer and my calc are with a .10 of each other. Not quite the 20 MPG some people are reporting but compared to to the 14+ I have been getting around town I am happy. Still think it is a great truck and have had no problems to speak of.
Carl

mailman54 · October 2000

I'm afraid I'm going to cast my lot with steve234. I love manual transmissions, but for towing I find autos preferable. Who said I can't start out in 2nd in my auto. I just place the gear selector in 2nd and press on the gas pedal!

Mailman

ford_bii · October 2000

One side note on this debate, Dodge rates the 4.7 with a 5-speed at 14/19 MPG. The auto is rated at 13/18 MPG. Got this info from two 2001 Quad window stickers.

lmeyer1 · October 2000

The window sticker on my 2001 (4x2, 3.55, LSD, 5 speed, 4.7, 230 HP) was 15/20. My first tank in suburban driving (with some stop and go) was 17.65 (computer indicated over 19).

Leaving aside reliability and towing, I like the manual for one reason. It's more fun. But to each his own.

ford_bii · October 2000

Does anybody know who manufactures this for Dodge? I have yet to find an aftermarket equivalent, and $920 is just too darn much for this cover. You can get an A.R.E. for like $700, and it's probably a better cover... I just like the way the gull-wing opens in the front.

bigal31 · October 2000

but I must say bye. I have done the un-thinkable and traded my QC 4x4 on a full size Silverado 4x4 Ext-cab with 4th door. I just need a larger truck with a 4.10 axle. And I just can't keep both. Whish I could..

Anyway, I just wanted to thank everyone one last time.
Respectfully,
Allen-

bookitty · October 2000

Steve, my post was intended to point out the problems incurred by towing in overdrive. My preference is manual, but that is a personal choice. Your comments on the lasting power of two like vehicles, one automatic, one manual is antecdotal at best. It is only a personal observation and proves nothing. However, I guess this is the reason that ice cream comes in a variety of flavors. So I think that each person should choose the type of transmission that they personally prefer and stop arguing. But, do not tow in overdrive. That remains as a given.

Bookitty

bookitty · October 2000

Allen, we will miss your input very much on this forum as regards Dodge Dakota, but we hope that you will continue to contribute and keep in touch with us. Good luck with your new truck. I know that you put a good deal of time and money into your Quad and it had to be a most difficult decision for you guys to make. You are always welcome here.

Bookitty

amend1 · October 2000

About 3 or 4 weeks ago I had posted about a noise my '00 QC was making (6500mi). The dealer, after some prompting, determined that it was the driveshaft that goes to the forward axle. They ordered the part and installed it today. It has repaired the problem. I am just wondering-- I had taken several trips to the area of Lk. George NY with a good load of firewood in the back. Is it possible that the joint was stressed from the back end of the truck sagging?? Many people tow with these vehicles which I'm sure causes similar sagging with, I hope, no problem. This causes me to inquire if anyone has had experience with the air ride systems that can be installed in the rear suspension. Anyway, food for thought. I also put of of those "side saddle" type boxes in the rear for extra tow ropes, ball hitches, etc.

jims16 · October 2000

This is my first entry, so my apologies if I'm supposed to put this somewhere else.
Glad to say that I'm the proud new owner of an '01 Quad Cab SLT. First new truck in 15 years. And 3 weeks from ordering to driving it off the lot. Only have a couple hundred miles on it, but very pleased so far.
I keep wandering into the garage just to remind myself that it's real.
Been agonizing between the Dodge and the Ford Explorer Sport-Trac since the Spring, but the Ford required an auto transmission with just about any option. Besides, the Dodge just seems more like a truck than an SUV, which the Sport-Trac felt like.

Also must say I'm impressed with the courtesy shown in this conference.
Cheers,
JimS.

slclark3 · October 2000

Just talk to a sales rep that had a JET performance module for the 4.7. Has anyone tried this from the JET company? He said a 18-20 HP boost. The price of the module is $289.00.

slr9589 · October 2000

I paced a new Nisan Frontier 4 door today on the Mass.Turnpike...The looks are improved but those puny doors...! It slowed down and let me pass wide to the left...all smiles in both cabs!!!!
My 00,slt,4.7,5 spd.lsd...el cheapo wheels...2wd..is doing just fine....19-20mpg....no health problems at 12,000 miles...
it sure loves to fly,
be good all

ford_bii · October 2000

I have spent the last 4 hours researching these so called "Advertising Fees" since I got home from the local dealer with a price quote. We negotiated $100 over invoice and when he punched in all my options, printed me out a spec sheet that included $439 of "Advert/Adjustment" charges. After all my research, I still don't know what to think of this. Some people have claimed they are able to negotiate some or none of these charges for various Dodge vehicles. Some say that the dealer does pay these but that they will often get large reimbursements later in the year if the advertising budget is surplus. I am ordering the truck, with an MSRP of about $28000. Which should amount to a holdback of about $845. Plus the $100, you get $945 dealer profit right off the bat. Is it too much to tell the dealer to absorb the $439 charge?? Dodge sales are REALLY slow right now, and I wonder if this will have any bearing?? Edmunds recommends only paying up to $200 in advertising fees. Would it be better to attempt to negotiate that price??

Sorry for the long post, but even though I understand that advertising cost is factored into everything, I would feel better if it wasn't an itemized cost on my dealer's price sheet.

jsten2 · October 2000

Pass on any information you have on the jet module. How does it affect gas mileage and what about the warranty? Where do you get it?
This is the first most of us have heard of it.

dragonhawk · October 2000

I'm glad someone else is wrestling with this. I'm negotiating my truck from afar, and figured that "invoice + 2%" would be good enough. Like you, I figured that invoice meant things made out of metal, etc. and not advertising fees.

Things got complicated because the first sales rep was initially using 2000 prices, was including advertising charges, and then he left the job, handing the action over to another guy. In the confusion, the second guy apparently got the impression that we are going to include advertising, but subtract the holdback.

I have an Edmunds book from earlier this year that says to use the following formula to judge a fair price:

(Invoice) + (3%invoice for profit) + (1 to 1.5%invoice for advertising) minus (3%MSRP holdback)

For my truck, the figures come out as follows:

MSRP: $27,660
Invoice (no advertising): $24,801
Invoice (w/ advertising): $25,251
"Edmunds Formula" fair price: $25,187
"Dragonhawk" method: $25,297 (delete advertising)
Dealer method: $25,796 (include advertising)
Dealer's accidental(?) offer: $24,966 (I think)

Unfortunately, I can't seem to lock this in yet since I won't be ordering until the spring. Anyway, as long as the final price is pretty close to the "Edmunds Formula" I'll stay with the dealer. If it creeps significantly northward I'll explore other options (although I don't really have that many others to explore).

spike50 · October 2000

This is currently beginning dicussed in the Dakota Owners - General catagory.

andy_jordan · October 2000

I have no intention of getting into a slanging match. My reputation with individual members here is probably well established as, with one notable exception, I have been a frequent poster to Edmunds for a considerable amount of time. People will by now have formed there own opinions of the points I make, the advice I give and the questions I raise.

To each his own.

Andy

ohc_baby · October 2000

Unless you have a 3.9 (you don't, but some do) the JET chip is a wash. it yields 5 - 10 hp MAX after resetting the computer and allowing the truck to relearn. The 6's get the 15-20 that they claim, but your 4.7 will never see it. I sent mine back. A good induction and exhaust will each yield a lot more gain for less cash and not raise questions when its time for service.

tuvtest · October 2000

With all due respect, I must disagree with one point you made in post 1017. I agree with your assessments, opinions, advice nearly all the time ,and respect your knowledge. That said, your classification of Dodge autos as "Horrendous" (your words) is completly off the mark. I agree that that the main reason autos fail is abuse ( mainly overheating,but Chysler Corp. has traditionaly had the strongest, most reliable V8/RWD tranmissions in the business. GM's th300/400/r700 and Ford's C4/C6/AOD have always had s significantstrength disadvantage to the Chrysler Torqueflight series of tranmissions. Take a stroll thru the pits of any drag racing event, (the most popular venue where autos and sticks can compete on equal footing) and you will see that the majority of Mopars run autos. There will also be a number of GMs & Fords that have adapted Mopar trans's to their applications. this is not for $ or sponsorship. It's because they want the most reliability run to run. The abuse these autos take is much more than what is tipically seen on the street and the torqueflight handles it with ease. They have also endured homes behind some of the most powerful street engines ever released by the big three and rarly missed a beat. Yes, you do hear about the occasional problem, but anecdotal stories cannot be relied on without full information as to maintance, driving habits, ect. I am sorry for the long post,and I am not looking for a fight, but my dander is up and had to put my $.02 in.

bookitty · October 2000

Jim, congratulations on your new acquisition, good luck and of course welcome to "the club." There is a specific topic (28) for new members. You may register any information (personal as well as truck) and Steve will log your data. Enjoy your truck and we look forward to reading your posts.

Bookitty

steve234 · October 2000

First, I agree with you completely about towing in overdrive. Turning the overdrive off while towing is second nature to me. However, the owner's manual says that it allowed to do so and every manufacturer that I have checked out lately is now allowing towing in overdrive if the transmission does not begin to hunt.
Second, the person asking gives the impression of a degree of inexperience with towing a boat. I do not know how much boat towing experience you have, but many ramps are a challenge that would require a high level of expertise with a manual. I did it for many years with a large boat and had no regrets about switching to an automatic. It made a dificult job much easier.
Third, all experiences are anecdotal when you get down to it. My point was that bad transmissions are not limited to automatics. I have driven many manuals, starting with a 65 Mustang, and moving to the big rigs. My wife's current car is a manual and we are approaching 120K with the original clutch.
We had a driver that recognized that he would probably be better off with an automatic. He wanted advice because everyone hears horror stories about automatics. I offered a positive outlook about automatics. I do feel that the standard lovers went overboard in knocking automatics. Every person should drive what they fel comfortable with and we should wholeheartedly endorse their choices.

steve234 · October 2000

Got 22.4 mpg yesterday on a 250 mile run down I-35. I was following my wife as she drove our old motor home back. It was 60 mph the whole way. Now she says I will have to keep it below 60 every time. I can live with 16-17 MPG easier.

Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

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