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I wanted to find out the money factor and the residual value on the a 3 year lease at 12,000 mi.
thanks,
Chris
I have been told by the import dealers that GM is notorious for excessive wear charges at end of lease. Do you have any idea if this is true or not? Also, do you think GAP insurance is necessary? Is GAP included in the typical GM lease?
Thanks Pacer, :shades:
I'm thinking about taking advantage of the Ford Family Plan and leasing a 2005 Explorer XLT 4x4 or 500 Limited. Can you tell me what the money factor and residual would be for each, assuming 12,000 miles/yr and either 24 or 36 months?
Thanks!
I need a reality check on a 39 month lease at 12,000 miles per year. MSRP of $51,590 with a selling price of $48,750. WIth $2,000 down I am quote a monthly lease of $785. My tax rate is 7%. What do you think?
jegpgh
All I have ever been hit with was worn out tires once. (Original equipment Goodyear Eagles that didn't make it 25,000 miles).
Went and bought a set of used tires with enough tread to pass.
Worst experiences have been with banks and non-captive lease companies.
1. Finance the car
Total cost of the car=$63,726.10(including tax & PDI+admin)
Finance rate= 2.4%
Down payment-$15,000
Monthly payment- $1065.65X48 months= $51,151.20
Total = $ 66,151.20
2. Lease the car
Finance rate-2.5% (if I put $5000 security deposit)
Security deposit- $5000
Payment due upon delivery- $2615.10
MOnthly payments- 780.10X48= $37,444.80
Residual- $24,444.40+tax= $28,111.06
Total= $68,170.96 (This is the cost if I decide to buy the vehicle after 48 months)
Pls advise what way should I go
Could you please supply me with the MF and residual for a 2005 Lexus IS 300 with automatic transmission. I need them for a 2 yr./15000 mile and 3 yr./15000 miles lease. Location: Michigan (48867). Thanks in advance.
I am in the process of leasing a Mercedes E350 4-matic, MSRP $55,975, negotiated price $ 53,000, 39 months, 10k miles. Out of pocket $795 MB Credit fee, title & registration $329, $120 doc fee + first month payment. What should the pretax monthly payment be? Does the 4 matic qualify for the subsidized .00188 MF (ends August 1) that the RWD E350 current promotion.
Dealer says yes and is quoting a $599 payment which sounds good to me but I must do the deal by Saturday. Please let me know your views asap. Many thanks.
Thank you very much for the information. The money factor is key, and for some reason I couldn't get that from them. The guy I had was a brand new salesman, which made it sort of difficult.
Thank again.
I would recommend the lease. Good luck with your choice.
Tony B.
Has anyone had any experience with Nissan as far as an early out around this time if going to lease a more expensive NISSAN?
Just curious what the extra costs would be if any & if its worthwhile to approach a couple dealers on this. Or--am I stuck until the end of lease. Thanks
Besides leasing, are there any other options for someone who drives 18,000 miles per year but wants to change his vehicle every two- to three years?
Thanks in advance.
Greg
Anyway, I plugged the numbers in the spreadsheet that I created for myself, and realized that the dealer tagged on another $130 to my lease agreement. Well, the dealer said, you wanted "nothing down". So they structured the deal to make that happened. If I wanted a small monthly payment, I would need to put in a larger down pay. If I want nothing down, then I have to pay more interest! OK...I have a feeling that this is how they made their money back because they initially said they couldn't lease the car at that cost.
It's not a big amount of money so I don't plan to make a big deal out of it. But the lesson here (you already know) is that the dealers don't like to share the rates they use. There is nothing "black and white" anywhere in the lease agreement which clearly spells out the money factor used. I should have been more careful and request that in writing somehow.
Just need to pay attention to all the little things the dealer could do. If the number changes, ask questions till you are happy with the answers. I should have done that but I was kinda in a hurry to get in and out. But still, I am glad to get a decent car at a great price ($20,148 is lowest cap cost that I have read so far, but I am sure better deals could be had these days). :P
Thanks
Acura RL
Here's the deal
Price $44,500 Includes Destination and Doc prep
Term - 36 months
Residual - 59%
THEY WANT A MONEY FACTOR OF .0031!!!!
I walked away from it because I thought the money factor was too high. What's a reasonable number to use.
Thanks
I suspect the bank would also use a different residual to account for the additional wear and tear. So watch for that too. It might cost more than just the miles...
And the other thing to think about is whether it's a good idea to pre-pay or just take a chance. I have a story to share. I leased a '04 Volvo S60 2.5T in April '04. I traded in my '96 Volvo 850 as the down payment to reduce my monthly pay. Five months later, a drunk crashed into me and the S60 was totaled. I still have a $28K balance. Insurance would only pay $26K to the bank, and the balance was taken care by gap issurnace. But, I ended up with nothing! Essentially, I paid $6K to lease a car for only 5 months. That's a lot of "depreciation" to swallow.
So now I would only put the minimum $ down when I lease. I estimate my mileage to be about 12 to 13K miles a year. But I would still pick the 12K plan and gamble that my mileage might go over just slightly by the end of the lease. I rather pay for that later than paying upfront. Once you are locked in at a higher rate, there's little chance that the bank would lower it. And if something happens to the car before the lease is up, I would still be liable for the higher rates.
Hope this helps and not cause you more :confuse:
Hope I'm not stretching your patience (or bandwidth!), but I'm trying to slice my payments as much as possible on one of these trucks (FX35RWD, X5 3.0). Would you mind providing the current MF and residuals on a 39mo/12K lease? (Also, if anyone knows, can you buy down the BMW rate w/ security deposits? If so, how much?) Thanks to all, esp. Car_man.
This is probably the final car I am shopping for so sorry for all the questions. I need the MF and RV for both the 2.4i and the T5 models with 2yr/24K and 3yr/36K along with any incentives/rebates that comes along the deal. Thanks again.
Sorry for all the questions for the previous cars. It's just that I am trying to find the best deal out of all of them because the dealerships here are all offering employee discounts.
48 Months
$460 a month (Canadian)
20000 k a year
$0 down
Any thoughts? :confuse:
Am I being paranoid by not wanting to sign? Should I sign but have the contract indicate the vehicle is in transit? Is this normal procedure.
Thanks in advance - Brian
What your dealer is saying is true; employee pricing ends August 1st. If you have test driven the Relay and like its features, handling, etc, compared to other models, go ahead with the deal. Employee pricing is only for 2005 models, which are almost all gone.
Now as far as the lease is concerned, you shouldn't have to take care of that till August 8th, once you take delivery. What you should do is put a deposit down for the vehicle, if you want it.
Then you should also investigate 3rd party lease providers to see what kind of deal they will give you. Sometimes they will give you a much better deal than the dealer would. Some dealers like to pad some of their profit by marking up the money factor. Having 3rd party lease estimates should give you a good baseline for comparison.
I've been more than satisfied with my Saturn, made by GM, and hope you share the same experience. After 64,000 miles, i just gas it up and go and of course change the oil at regular intervals. No problems whatsoever. It almost works like a reliable appliance.
Al
To repeat, I just leased a EX 4 cycl. with auto and cloth. Costa Mesa Honda quoted me $20148 as cap cost and Norm Reeves (Cerritos) Honda matched it. The money factor was .00122 and residual was 54%. No money down, $530 out the door and $282 monthly pay for 36 months 12k miles/yr.
Try Westminster Honda too. They sent me a late quote of $20048 after I accept Norm Reeve's. But make sure that's cap cost and not cash cost. The dealers use the higher sale price amount for cap cost due to the lower money factor used in leases.
Delivery means date of contract execution.
If the vehicle physically arrives after the Employee pricing promotion is over, they must price it with whatever discounts or incentives are being offered at that time.
Your dealer is correct, and I have done this before, they can effect a "paper" delivery as soon as they have a vehicle ID number from the factory to put on the contract, even if the vehicle is in transit.
If you are satisfied with the terms of the deal, I wouldn't hesitate to sign off.
Any problems wioll be taken care of in the warranty period anyway..
I currently lease a G35 coupe and I was wondering if someone can tell me if Infiniti will expect an OEM windshield as a replacement? Will they consider replacement with a non-OEM part excess wear?
Last week I was driving on the highway and a stone cracked my windshield. I contacted my insurance company and they recommended Safelite to repair it since it was smaller than a dollar. Safelite tried to repair it but it didn't work, so they offered to replace the windshield. I asked for an OEM replacement, which I waited about a week for, but they replaced it with a PPG #FW02367. The person who replaced it did a great job, but I now realize that PPG is not the OEM part. After driving today I also noticed some distortion and rippling in my line of sight. I'm going to call Safelite on Monday to see about replacing it again, but would like to hear some opinions on OEM versus non-OEM windshields, especially on a lease.
Thanks.
36 months, 12,000 miles/year
$180.00/month
$2600 payment
55% residual value at $11,368
MSRP: 20,670
FYI - They gave us prices for lower down payments as well, however, there is a trade in involved that will reduce this down payment by ~$1000-1500.
Does this sound like a good deal? ANything we are missing? This is the first time working on a leased vehicle...typically buy new!
Thanks for your help,
Jamie
Need your advice as always. Firstly, I am located in Miami, FL and am looking to lease an Audi A4 2.0T Quattro with premium pkg, lighting pkg, sport pkg, and audio pkg. Can you provide me the numbers? (residual, MF, and what the cost should be for 36 months, 12k a year)
I am currently leasing a 2002 Audi TT and have 4 months left on my 39 mth lease and have asked my same Audi dealer about terminating early and moving into the A4 because my wife just had our second child and need the extra room of the A4 since the TT is really a toy. The TT only has 23k miles on it and is certainly worth more than the buy back. Do I have any negotiating room based on this or any ways of benefiting from this?
The dealer said they can terminate no problem but would either 1. pay only two of the 4 payments left, or 2. pay it all, but roll some of it into the new lease. With no money down, the inception fees total $1800.00
The last thing the dealer said to me was that the 2005.5 models have a much better lease deal than the 2006 - is this true or is he of course just giving me this bologna because he wants to get rid of what is on his lot?
Your assistance is greatly appreciated and look forward to your reply.
Rgds,
jnijankin
Pre-paid leases work differently than large down payments. Consumers who pay for their entire leases in advance and then are in an accident should receive all of their money back. In your post you stated that you would like to avoid the finance portion of leasing. Unfortunately, even though the bank that you are working with gets all of their money in advance, pre-paid leases are not interest free. Banks only provide a reduction in the lease money factor that is used to calculate the cost of pre-paid leases, they do not eliminate the interest charge completely.
Car_man
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Right now would be a good time to lease a 2005 Infiniti G35 Sedan because the lease program is fairly attractive on it and you should be able to get one at a price that is fairly close to invoice in many areas. It is still a pretty good time to lease a 2005.5 A4, but Audi has already pulled the plug on its lease support of the older 2005 version of this car.
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