Subaru Crew - Modifications II

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Comments

  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Thanks again for the replys, I think I am going to try S.S. lines with DOT.5 brake fluid and maybe a pad change, already have crossdrilled rotors Mike.

    juice the dust boots I was refering to are the boots on the caliper pistons, they are there to keep out foreign matter from getting in around the pistonsand making them stick. the lack of these boots on the four pots does not turn me on.

    I am happy enough with the performance of the stock brakes I just hate the spongy pedal feel.

    Cheers Pat.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Aren't the pistons greased up nicely anyway? Would they still stick?

    -juice
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Do you find the Metal master pads any harder on the rotor?how about dust and noise?

    Cheers Pat.
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    They would be more prone to salt and water contamination without those dust seals, do you think subaru and the rest of the car makers would have thos seals on the calipers if they were not needed?

    Cheers Pat.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Good point - in this age of cost cutting, the answer is absolutely not.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    So far 6K miles on them (which is about 12K normal driving miles) No noise, less dust than any other pads I've had on my cars and rotors so far are good. I didn't re-do my rear rotors yet still has the originals with 1/4" deep grooves on them. I'm gonna get a new set of pads and slotted rotors for the rear. I've done several 100+ ->60mph slow downs plus lots and lots of city/suburban driving, so far so good.

    -mike
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Thanks for the quick reply, will definitely look into those, unfortunately around here Subarus are an orphan child as far as anything remotely performance orientated is needed.

    Cheers Pat.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I had to do significant research to get stuff for my cars (XT6, SVX) Axxis should make pads for your car. If I remember I'll lookup the place where I got mine for yah @ home.

    -mike
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    http://www.get-primitive.com
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Thanks again for the prompt replies all the help is greatly appreciated.

    cheers Pat.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    My two vehicle (8 mounted winter tire) order arrived from Tire Rack on Friday morning. What great, speedy service! Now as the tires are identical (Dunlop Winter Sport M2, H rated in 225/60-16), it gave me the opportunity to see what difference wheel choices make.

    For the Odyssey EX, I bought their 16x6.5 steel rims and covers. This is the same size as the OEM alloy wheel, and similar to the steel wheels found on base LX models of the van. For the Outback, I bought their suggested "Sports Edition Fox 5" alloy wheel in 16x7 - a half inch wider that Subaru's OEM alloy fitment.

    First to the scales: Alloy & tire = 46.5 lbs. Steel & tire = 50.5 lbs + 1.25 lbs wheel cover = 51.75 lbs. Thus the steel combo weighs a bit over 5 lbs more compared to this particular alloy style.

    Circumference looked to be exactly 84". A little hard to measure with the nubs still on new tires. I used a narrow metal tape that conforms reasonably well to curved surfaces. Initial tread depth on these snows in 11/32". Out of curiosity I will have to see how that compares to the Bridgestone RE92's with 10k miles.

    I noted that the tread region of tires on the 7" wheel looked visually flatter than those on 6.5", but could not verify it when attempting to make a deflection measurement. So I stacked them next to each other. With matching tire pressure:

    Alloys = 37.635" (4 tires) = 9.41" each = 239mm section width

    Steel = 36.50" (4 tires) = 9.125" each = 232mm section width

    So adding a 1/2" to the rim (assuming the width specs given on the rims is accurate) increased the actual section width of the tire by about 5/16". If anyone remembers their calculus, I am sure they could write an expression that would explain this relationship!!!! I was surprised that both exceeded the nominal tire spec of 225mm. I am curious as to the wheel width used when making this supposedly industry standard measurement.

    As you can see, my life is really dull - this is what I did for entertainment on a Friday night!!!

    Steve
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm not sure how accurite the rim widths are though. I've hear that 7.5" rims on the SVX are ~8" wide and similar discrepencies for the other subie wheels.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    5 lbs is significant, IMO. That's great, be happy you got the alloys.

    I bet the tire's section width is measured when it's not mounted on any rim at all.

    -juice
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    I ordered a JDM Legacy badge to replace the 5 stars in my grille. The mirror "L" logo. I figured what the hey, those "i" badges are a nice subtle change to the Impreza, why not the Leg? Now all we need is an L-club!
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    quote: I was surprised that both exceeded the nominal tire spec of 225mm.

    that's the rated size of the tire. rated sizes can, and do, vary compared to the real world dimensions.

    I had a set of 205/55-16 Yokohama Nexus on my RS' 16x7 rims and they were every bit as wide (tread and total section) as a set of 225/50-16 Yokohama AVS S1 I replaced them with.

    -Colin
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    So sometimes you actually get more than you bargained for!

    I had remembered actual section widths coming very close (sometime slightly under) posted widths. After I read your post, I went searching in my desk and found an old booklet from EuroTire, which contained some tire/wheel sizes and specifications. It was from the mid '80's before 16-18" tires were common (12-15" was the norm them). Anyhow, it listed tire section width and actual measured section width when mounted on a 'standard' rim. And their numbers pretty much matched. But what I now see, for example with 15" rims, the widths used for reference were very conservative - ie:

    175/185mm = 5.0"
    195/205mm = 5.5"
    215/225mm = 6.0"

    So given that rim specs today are wider, and maybe tire makers take more 'liberty' with their specs, and you suddenly get diverging numbers.

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Loosh: got a pic of one?

    -juice
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    image

    (Not a copyright protected image, so it should be ok)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I could put one on my Forester since it's an "L" model. Though I'm not sure I want to advertise that. I prefer Ken's term, "Project Forester 2.5 RS".

    -juice
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The wife wouldn't know what it meant. Waste of money.

    Hey, anyone shopping for rims? Mid-A forums of i-Club has some WRX rims with tires for $300, that seems like a pretty good price.

    -juice
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    ...for the winter. My RS rims have auto-x tires on 'em. The GT rims have S-03s on them. Nothing for winter but Michelin gravel mediums on 15" steelies. ;-)) I am thinking of selling those anyway. I just don'r see myself rallycrossing the daily driver anymore.

    I could use the OB 15" rims for snows since I got SP5000 all seasons for that car's WRX rims.

    Jeez, Q would kill me if I rolled yet another set of rims into the garage.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sell the rally tires first, then buy a winter set.

    My wife isn't allowed in the shed. It's the ONLY part of the house that's all mine. So I can store my rims in peace. :-)

    -juice
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    where did you get the badge? do they have them for 2001 since model year 2001 is a larger badge than yours.

    Cheers Pat.
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    I think the guy can get them for the BH; I'm not sure. His email is cardin555@hotmail.com. He works for Subaru I think.

    Juice- yea, but with the season over I might get a better price if I wait until spring....?
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    http://www.lachutesubaru.com/


    Found this to be a good source of performance parts for Subaru in Canada, Prices are good, even better for you folks south of the border since the Canadian dollar is worth less than 40 cents US at the minute.


    They run their own rally cars, are agents for Cobb in Canada and they can get parts from anywhere, they have a good business going at the moment doing STI swaps into just about anything Subaru.


     They have a Wilwood 4 pot front brake kit at the moment which will fit under the stock 16 Oem rims, calipers, mounting brackets,12.5 rotors, s.s.lines and Wilwood pads,$1200 CDN.works out pretty cheap in US funds.


    I am seriously considering putting this kit on the Titan.


     Cheers Pat.

  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Pat,

    back when I had a Subaru I talked to Rejean quite a lot about that kit, then it was just something that they'd done for a customer or two.

    I wouldn't hesistate to buy it.

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's pretty cheap for such a complete set.

    Hang onto your OE rotors. Maybe I could convert my Forester's rear drums into discs somehow.

    -juice
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    I ordered that kit today, also ordered the stainless lines for the rear, but would'nt you know it, the rears are not straight forward, because of the suspension change in M.Y. 2000 the rear lines are two piece therefore more expensive.

    He also had a time finding lines at a reasonable cost, I was impressed that they will go the extra yard to have a happy customer, I would not hesitate to recommend them to anyone.

    Incidently this is the dealer where I bought the Titan in the first place but was unaware that they had this performance business going as well.

    I am also going with metal master pads in the rear and a change to Motul Dot 5 brake fluid, I am also installing the master cylinder brace so hopefully I will have decent brakes after this.

    Cheers Pat.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    "decent"

    I think that'll be a bit of an understatement. It'll still be a bit squishy with the dual-stage booster but I think you'll be VERY happy.

    -Colin
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Pat,

    Let us know how it goes. I'm getting close to having to replace my pads/rotors so I'm interested in how your mods turn out.

    Ken
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    I'm jealous. No $$ for that kind of upgrade.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sound good Pat, I'm sure you'll document the swap? :-)

    Glad to see you found the brace too.

    Ken: how many miles you got now?

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    I'm just about to hit 78K miles. I've had some very slight warping of my front rotors so I've been thinking of swaping those out including all the pads. The WRX front rotor upgrade sounds interesting, but it is kind of pricey.

    I'm also going to need new tires soon, too. I'm considering the SP5000s.

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Man, you are way out-pacing me. I'm close to 49k. Same year, though you got yours a few months before me.

    That's because I spread the miles, though. The Forester gets about 9k/year now, the Miata the other 6k or so.

    -juice
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    I like the SP5000s for the $$

    I see the hampsters are tired today, BTW....
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    If you are not planning on keeping the Forester much longer I think you would daft to do the upgrade, but if like me you plan to keep it until the wheels fall off that would be a different matter.

    I do not know when I will get mine installed, it will be a couple of weeks before it is delivered.

    Then I have to hope that the weather co-operates with a mild day otherwise it will be spring before I get them on, but as soon as they are on I will let you know my impressions.

    Cheers Pat.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    juice: Unfortunately, a good chunk of those 78K miles are from my daily 60-mile (R/T) commute. :-(

    Pat: Yeah, I might just keep it stock since I don't plan on driving Raven (haven't called it that in a while!) into the ground. My guess is maybe in a year from now, I'll be looking for something new.

    What about the front rotors? The brake pulsating happens only at speeds of 70+mph. Could I get by with just pad replacement?

    Ken
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Ken- A year from now should be about perfect timing. Hopefully by then the 04 Turbo Foresters will have been out for at least several months and the prices will have dropped back to a few hundred over invoice. Drool drool....

    -Frank P.
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Again it depends on how bad the pulsating is, if it is minor and the rotors are not badly scored I would just replace the pads and scuff the rotors with some 120 grit sandpaper.

    cheers Pat.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Pat,


    The vibration isn't real bad although I have noticed it is getting progressively worse. I do have 78K miles on my orignal pads and rotors although they're 80% highway miles so I'm leaning towards just replacing it all. I'm having a local independent mechanic find out how much more the WRX rotors would be over the stockers.


    BTW, is this similar to the booster brace you purchased:


    http://www.isrperformance.com/brakes.html#OTHER%20BRAKE%20BITS


    How hard is the installation of one of these? The price isn't too bad.


    Ken

  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    The support bracket looks to be much the same, I understand it is a fairly simple installation using simple hand tools.

    BTW>I don't think you can just bolt on WRX rotors to your existing setup I think you would need different calper mounting brackets. the WRX rotors are an inch larger.

    Cheers Pat.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Pat,

    Yes, you're right -- I need new mounting brackets in addition to pads and rotors. I do have 16" wheels so clearance isn't an issue.

    I might be doing this on Wednesday.

    Ken
  • lilbluewgn02lilbluewgn02 Member Posts: 1,089
    a FYI on the bracket installation:

    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=241167
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Thanks for the link. It sounds like the bracket was designed for the GC8. Wonder how it would fit on other models.

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Check, because the strut tower brace fits, but the cover for the fender well does not. The sheet metal is different in most places.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Got a question for the Crew:

    I'm going to be replacing the front rotors and pads on my Forester soon. The bigger WRX rotors, pads and caliper brackets are about $200 more in parts than keeping it stock.

    Is it worth it?

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yes.

    Or no. ;-)

    Thing is, it may not stop shorter, it'll just resist fade better. Do you live in a hilly area (dumb question, you're near SF!)? Do you tow?

    I'd look at those questions, rather than safety.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Argh! I was counting on a clear cut answer from you, juice! ;-)

    My main concern was fade resistance (for those hills (how'd you guess?) and freeway driving) and resistance to warping.

    Hmmm....

    Ken
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    The difference in swept area will mean better heat management and, therefore, more resistance to fade. But I don't think (Colin corect me if I am wrong) that the difference in size is big enough to register a measurable improvement in brake force or stopping distance.

    FWIW WRX front brake assemblies can be had on the board formerly known as i-club for around $200 total.
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