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Comments
-juice
Loosh did a lot of research so hopefully he'll chime in soon.
-juice
Performance- this is as big as you can go on a NA engine without losing bottom end torque. Others with the system report dyno improvements between 10-12 hp ABOVE 5000 rpm. I want to stress this- I get a performance boost out of it under hard acceleration and redline situations like autocross and track time. it does NOT make a huge difference in the day-to-day driveability of the engine. Better throttle response is about it down around 2500 or so. I personally am happy with it. I am willing to trade the raised interior volume for the extra pull up top. And that awesome boxer burble around town. There would be a more significant gain if I had a hi-test cat, but MD has tough emissions inspectors so I am staying away from that. I haven't found a set of headers I am confident in, longevity wise. And also real cold air intake would add some more oomph to the advantage of a cat-back system, but this is a MAF and torque chamber-equipped ej25 Phase I and I think the CAI issues here are well documented.
The exhaust note isn't obtrusive at all. The characteristic boxer burble is nice and deep.
Ken
Option 1) Get a great set of all-seasons, like the SP5000, because I have a spare set of rims for auto-x and track. IF I EVER GET THE TIME to do either of those things again.
Option 2) Just get awesome summer tires again. They were pretty squirelly in the 7" of snow 2 weeks ago, and I thought I would be stuck once, but I got around in the end. Plus I can mount snows on the 15" OB rims we now have in the garage.
For you - true summer tires and snows. Reasons: Baltimore is less likely to surprise you with terrible weather out of season, and from your own and others description, you would enjoy and benefit from a set of great high grip dry road tires.
Steve
I say go with summer tires. You always can get around in the OB if you really need to. We rarely get snow, this year being an exception.
-juice
Also, if and when you'll get back into Auto-X, I'm sure you'll find a way to get some tires just for that. But since you don't know when that'll happen, I'd say spend the money where you need it.
Ken
-mike
the edges they'd need to do anything on those surfaces are worn down by the hard dry tarmac use.
the tread itself would be pliable though and more useable than a summer tire.
my vote: inexpensive summer tires. leaves room in the budget for autocross compounds and/or snow tires on the 15" rims.
-Colin
-juice
not sure I'd recommend them after having a set again. I last owned this tire in 1995, and it was great. since then I've driven far better and more modern tires... the wet traction is particularly sub-par.
-Colin
I don't drive the Miata in the rain. I just take the Soob.
-juice
-mike
-juice
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?make=Yokohama&model=AVS+Intermediate
They also have the 235/40-17. Hmm... Nah. I'll just wear these out and replace with something I like better. I bet I could go through two sets of rears to one set of fronts though. I think I'd rather just throw away the half-used fronts.
Even when driving prudently, the M3 can get into some serious yaw angles really fast with these tires in the rain.
-Colin
I gotta decide if I'm gonna keep it much longer, or trade up for a '99.
-juice
I imagine passengers are far more scared than I am. ;-)
-Colin
-mike
You can drive it any time, tho.
Colin: no way could I do that. Not nearly enough torque. I have something like 3 foot pounds at 9000 rpm.
If I employ a method I learned from paisan, that is flooring the throttle just before the apex, then maybe, just maybe, I can get the tail a little loose. But the engine has to be above 4000rpm.
-juice
Ed
-mike
I'm gonna miss my dear old S-03s....
Still, I can't justify the expensive of top-flight summer tires.
-Colin
Anyway, I'm thinking of maybe lifting my Forester a bit... It's not a matter of ground clearance (generally, it has plenty for my limited off-roading needs), but rather a matter of aesthetics. It always looked too low for my taste. I had hoped 2003 will be higher but alas. I saw some pix of lifted (4" ?) Foresters in the past, and they looked better than original.
If someone can please point me to the place where I can find more about Forester-lifting experience?
Thanks!
--kate
http://www.isrperformance.com/offroad.html
http://www.isrperformance.com/suspension.html
Be careful with the lifted Forester, it goes without saying that body roll will change dramatically.
Ed
same thing for me about the Forester, although the biggest thing i am trying to accomplish is to get rid of the rear sag when going camping, etc for the weekends (we take lots of toys: bikes, water, hammocks...). I am in the process of getting springs from iSR and they lifted the front about 1.5", the back ones were wrong so i am waiting for them and will post pics once i get the whole thing done. As juice suggested, i will shy away from changing the tires (tranny problems) or body lift (ton of work, warranty?) but the springs are OK. the ride is stiffer (not much) and you do gain some clearance. Pam (at iSR) is nice and says she is selling a lot of these springs. They are yellow, so they also make your Forester have that custom look (i like it).
This one is a single disc, but also plays WMA's:
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-y19lmUybf3g/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=3&g=62700&I=570CDCMA01&o=v&a=1
Here's an add on 10 disc CD/MP3 changer to your OEM radio:
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-y19lmUybf3g/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=3&g=610&I=158CDX565M&o=n&a=0
I only did a quick search, but didn't see any in-dash multi-disc MP3 players. And I used a 2000 Forester as the vehicle for the first selection.
-Brian
For .mp3 players, I'd go to Circuit City or a similar electronics store where you can actually test out the players. Some criteria that you can't find based on an on-line catalog is the indexing and cache speed of the player. When you insert a CD with .mp3 files, the unit first needs to go through all the directories and index the songs. Also, when you advance to a different file, some players will read in the file into a cache for skip-free playing. All these little things add up to the total "usability" of the unit.
Aside from rubbing, keep in mind the effect of gearing of bigger tires. You'll probably loose some acceleration but get lower RPMs on freeways.
Ken
or
Azenis
or
Something I don't know about yet?
I'll prolly put Hakkas or Blizzaks on the 15"s.
-Colin
Azenis are the best around at a very good price.
-mike
Longer axles
Ball Joint flip/spacers
Beefier CVs
When lifting an independent suspension vehicle your downward travel is severely diminished, that is what the ball joint flip + spacers helps to eliminate. Longer axles and beefier CVs are because the angle from the differential to the drive wheel is greater than before.
-mike
-Colin
-mike
Ed (lark6) or anyone: what is the max size tires I can fit in the Forester? From some discussions in the past, I thought the maximum-still-fitting size was 225/70-16, but I may be mistaken.
Ed (pretty certain I was the guinea pig for that setup)
Looks like ed is right.
215-60-16 is a good fit for the forester.
-mike
I didn't get mine on before yesterday so I slogged around with those big 17"s in the snow and icy slush. The Pilot Sport A/S were excellent in those conditions. A very expensive tire, maybe not worth the "Michelin surcharge", but no doubt the best performance characteristics of any all-season I've ever bought.
Ed
Lachute also has 12.5 inch rotors but these will not work with the 6.5 GT rims, as I use these rims for winter I did not want to have to buy nor could I afford new rims to accomodate the larger rotors, maybe in the future.
I am also going with KVR. carbon fibre pads on the rear.
Cheers Pat.
I think you're right. The 98-02 S and all the 2003 Foresters have 215/60R16 standard.
Ken