Subaru Crew - Modifications II

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Comments

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Hey Dennis, how much would the bill have been if it wasn't under warrantee? I have a bad 2nd and 3rd gear synchros on the legacy just trying to figure out how much it will run me when they finally go.

    -mike
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,398
    Mike,

    When the 5-spd on my 2000 Legacy started popping out of fifth gear, the rebuild cost $1,200. I had around 90k miles on the car and it was beyond the mileage where Subaru would assist in coverage. The Subie bucks helped somewhat.

    Jim
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    that actually sounds like a very fair price. did you get details on what was done? sounds like perhaps just the shift forks...

    most dealerships lack the desire or skill to do that and would recommend a new complete transmission, which would've been ~$1500-2500 just by itself.

    I probably would've sourced a salvage yard tranny and installed it myself, but considering most people don't have that option open to them I think $1200 is quite reasonable. --assuming it is still running fine now? seems like.

    ~c
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    I'm not sure of the price. I picked up the car from the showroom and they forgot to have me sign the paperwork going to SoA. They're mailing that to me, but I have the parts numbers at home that I can look up on subaruparts.com

    -Dennis
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,398
    Colin,
    The repair report says: verified condition ... recommend tear down tranny for further inspection and repairs ... found fifth gear hub assembly worn and has broken ... replaced fifth gear hub assembly and related washer and locking nut for main shaft ...

    It's running fine now.

    Even if I had a tranny, there's no way I'd have the time to do this kind of repair. I can no longer see myself crawling under a car for a couple of hours at night after a full day at work.

    Jim
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yeah I was thinking of sourcing a junkyard one, but they are about $800+ if I 'm gonna do that I might as well pay to get it rebuilt correctly rahter than gamble on a used one and spend a day putting it in.

    -mike
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    Ha! I knew there must be others with first gear synchro problems!
    Elissa
  • dublo7dublo7 Member Posts: 2
    well thanks for the info everyone. circuit city hooked me up with a fob for entry and a basic alarm for 205usd with tax. now it does need some tweaking - i want the driver's door to open with the first press - and when that's done i'll report again.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    You too? What was the outcome?

    -Dennis
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    There was a TSB on the first gear synchros for 98 Foresters and 2.5 RSs.

    -juice
  • shaughnessyshaughnessy Member Posts: 1
    The story is simply this, I am an old fart with about 2,000 tapes I love to listen to. Most are not out on CDs, etc. As the new Subarus are no longer fitted with tape decks, Does ANYONE have an idea how I an overcome this problem. I had my wife on agreement to buy a new Outback but this lack of equipment is proving a hindrance. At this point nothing will sound too wild.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    A few ideas.

    You could get a radio from a 2002-2003 WRX and swap it out. These E-bay for around $140. You might need a face-plate to make the fit look custom, though. They are available in Japan, supposedly SubieGal was saying she'd sell them here when they were made available, I just haven't seen them yet (haven't looked, either).

    Crutchfield will soon have aftermarket stuff that fits the Outback, if they don't already. They did even for the bizarre oval radio on the Taurus from a few years back.

    Or buy a CD-R or MP3 player, then convert them. This is extremely time-consuming, though.

    Option 4 - get a walk man. Though you'll have to use headphones because there is no accessory input in the Subie stereos.

    Subaru is behind here, no MP3, no aux input, and no cassette for those types of adaptors either.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Replace the stereo with a unit that has a tape deck. Or use a walkman to output to an fm transmitter and then you can listen on a particular frequency. Similar to the way you can listen to CDs on a car that doesn't have a CD input.

    -mike
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    The easiest solution that requires no rewiring is to buy an FM transmitter and connect a portable tape player to it. FM transmitter performance will vary greatly depending on the amount of competing FM signals in your area.

    I have the below unit for my iPod and it works very well. Note that the unit uses a standard mini headphone jack so it's compatible with a wide range of devices:

    http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=&a- mp;Section_Id=201526&pcount=&Product_Id=166893

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    $40 is probably the cheapest solution, too.

    I wired my dad's house with Belkin wi-fi products and they have worked well for him so far. I guess they make car stereo stuff as well.

    -juice
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Details? I'll leave that up to lark6 since he has put a good amount of miles on the same tires and is much better at details than I am. ;-) I am hitting a couple of quick twisties on the way home with a LOT less drama now. No more squealing pig.

    As far as noise though, the PS's are noisier on some surfaces than the OEM Geo 900's (which are quite a bit noiser than the older gen RE92's were on my WRX wagon).

    Ed told me that they were noiser than the Geo's and the SP5000's which he now runs. I'm a little surprised that the PS's got such a good customer rating for noise on Tire Rack. I suppose it depends what you're comparing them against.

    I haven't pushed them that hard yet, but handling is much better due to all of the factors you'd expect (wider tire, lower/stiffer sidewall, UHP A/S, etc.).

    In my test drive of the OBXT, handling was already better than the the stock FXT due to the tires, lower cog and maybe suspension(?). I confirmed from a few different Forester owner's that 225/55/17's would fit, so be careful about going with a 235. Any OB owner's done that yet? Do you have much room around the struts?

    -Dennis
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    People moving to 18" wheels on the OB are going to 235/45-18 size without issues, so I know the width is *probably* OK. What concerns me is that most 17" wheels (including the stockers) are 7" wide (kind of narrow for 235), while 18" wheels are typically 7.5" or 8" wide (thus a better match for 235).

    The OB XT already handles great on the RE-92A tires, in fact it's better than I ever expected. Unfortunately, the tires are very noisy on the highway, especially on concrete surfaces. They make a "boing" noise over sharp bumps, and it strings into a continuous hum over 65mph or so, as the tire reacts to grainy surfaces. Don't ask me how I know this, but the tires are silent on grass at the same speeds, so it's definitely some interaction with the road surface causing the noise.

    So my tire priorities are 1) quieter than RE-92A, and 2) no appreciable loss in handling compared to the RE-92A. In the 225/55-17 size, unfortunately choices are limited. I could go to a grand touring tire like the Bridgestone Turanza for quietness, but would expect handling to degrade. I could go to the Pilot A/S for better handling, but it sounds like the noise might be worse.

    I guess the noise issue is hard to peg -- while the Pilot A/S may have more tread noise, if it eliminates the "boing" noise it may be quieter overall.

    Craig
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    That's interesting. Maybe you could find a local person with both tires so you could take a test ride. That would be pretty easy for me in nabisco's Tri-state. The Pilot Sports were recommended to me by Ed, as well as Connor over in the "ask the Tire Rack" forum here on Edmunds. He said that the shoulder design would be ideal for sand and he was right! Don't know if you saw this comparo of the PS Cup vs. PS vs. PS A/S: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/mi_pilot_sports.jsp

    Prodrive is working on an adjustable suspension and including the Forester. They will soon be expanding their products for the Forester, as well as creating some new items.

    Another area that SoA is missing out on. At least they're making small steps with the SPT Forester line. They need a sway bar though and maybe stiffer springs that don't lower the ground clearance. I expect 17's to be offered as an option for '06 now that I bought some
    elsewhere. :-)

    -Dennis
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    I'll chime in just to confirm Dennis' impressions of the PS A/S. I ran them on my '00S and only put about 7K miles on them before I got my '05 XT. I've now put about an additional 1.5K on them on the FXT.

    They are louder than either the Geos or the SP5000s, but frankly I don't notice their noise as much on the FXT as I did on the S. A combination of exhaust note and turbo whine drown them out a bit I guess.

    IMO they handle better than a lot of dedicated summer performance tires in the dry, and their wet performance is far and away the best I've experienced to date.

    One reason I went with a performance A/S as a summer tire is that I often see varying road conditions as well as weather conditions. Pennsylvania has notoriously bad paved roads, where pavement types vary often in very short stretches and are punctuated by potholes as often as not. (That's one reason I wouldn't dream of slamming my Forester and shoeing it with dedicated dry-type rubber.) My Foresters, particularly the S, have seen more gravel than most. The S even saw a little dirt and mud, though the XT hasn't yet. Now I find out via Dennis that the PS A/S are good in the sand as well!

    Combine the improvements in handling and the high treadwear rating and (again IMO) they offset the noise and admittedly high price.

    Ed
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Moving over from the PhotoGallery Topic....

    More info on the RacingBrake Caliper Testing....

    They are HP+ pads which I've used extensively with the Subaru 4-pot calipers as well as the Subaru 2-pot calipers. The noise actually occurs after warmup.

    After 4hrs of testing on friday we figured out it was likely a combination of a few items. Mostly it was due to the SS Shims provided by the caliper manufacturer that didn't work very well with our setup. This combined with a slightly taper wear previously on the rotors produced the horrible sqeel. The HP+ pads still squeel slightly but no where near what they did initially and are normal to slightly less than HP+ combined with the Subaru 4-pot calipers.

    RacingBrake owner and Chief engineer is working on special shims for the HP+ pads that will actually quiet them down. RacingBrake actually made some of the first shims in the industry back in the early 80s but stopped making them when cheaper parts started being produced overseas for them.

    Cool thing about the company is they are small and totally into customer service, where else could a small reseller/racer get one on one sessions with the manufacturer for testing and R&D? I'll hopefully have some pics up later tonight.

    I also convinced them to bring their 350z that has special calipers they designed to move them out further and allow a 2-piece larger rotor to fit under them out to the NASA-NE track day at Limerock on Monday Nov 8. Ken from Racingbrake will be driving it in the Novice group and I'll be driving it in the Instructor group. Pretty excited to get some track time with a different car especially one with RWD :) Albeit it's a 5EAT but from the test ride I took on the street it's still pretty powerful!

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The VQ has good torque so even with a slushbox it should be fun.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    image
    image
    In the Watkins Glen Garage Area:
    image

    For more pics go to "Installs/Pics" on the http://AZPInstalls.com home page.

    -mike
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    interesting choice of caliper paint!

    ~c
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    OCD member are cringing. ;-)

    What's that red paint on there? Were you trying to cover a label, or was that an "oops" caliper that the sponsor provided?

    -juice
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    interesting choice of caliper paint!

    I'll second that!

    Ed
  • ozman62ozman62 Member Posts: 229
    anodized aluminum?
    Owen
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    ...pumpkin orangish -- just in time for the weekend!

    Ken
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    calipers are one Gawdawful colour, you would need to pay me to put them on my car:-)

      Cheers Pat.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The color is Gold with Red lettering on the Aluminum. I smeared the lettering as they are test-models. Color will likely be white lettering on red and white lettering on black. Still working out the shims for noise. The Al allows them to be almost 50% lighter.

    -mike
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Should stay away from the metalic colored paint.
    They tend to look very gourdy [sp] on aluminum without a flat undercoat.

    -Dave
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Well that's part of the idea no? haaaaa

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Test unit, as I suspected.

    Kewl.

    -juice
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    The color is Gold with Red lettering on the Aluminum. I smeared the lettering as they are test-models.

    I just figured the coloring was meant to imitate Brembo.

    Ed
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Probably, who knows. The final ones will be red with white lettering, not too bad, I'm still working on the squeeking.

    -mike
  • rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    Anybody have any experience installing pre-oilers on subies? It sounds pretty neat--having oil pressure before you start-up.

    http://www.accusump.com

    Eric
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    I have experience with them from a friend's roundy-round cars. They work great, but would be utterly pointless in anything that isn't driven really hard in corners-- rally, roadcourse, dirttrack. I would say canyon roads but I personally disbelieve in going that fast on public roads. It's too dangerous.

    Anyway, no need for an accusump in a car that only sees normal street use. I wouldn't even bother in autocross personally, but hey, maybe someone would. I have seen them on Prepared class autocross cars but they have GT-sized slicks. :)

    ~c
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    yup never have oil issues on the road course with my subies.

    -mike
  • rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    Ok here's my scenario:

    I live in east tennessee which has lots of mountain roads. Assuming I'm traveling 80-85 up the mountain and down it I travel at least that fast without having much throttle input due to the steep grade. Because of the short gearing, my speed is revving the engine instead of the throttle input.

    And it was my understanding that throttle input controlled the oil pressure. So in this case, would not my engine be underlubricated?

    Eric
  • rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    btw have you found a tranny for the new legacy turbo? ;) Just a hunch, but the EbayID was paisan_10 and the item was in northern NJ.

    Am I right?

    Eric
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    The oil pump is normally driven off the crank, so it will turn whenever the engine turns.

    Craig
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    correct. you make more oil pressure under load and at high RPM, that's perfectly normal. but you'll make plenty of it to keep the engine alive at idle, and there's no need for an accumsump when descending (or climbing) hills.

    ~c
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Well that fell through because there was a "fake" bidder who bid it up to $2600. He backed out and so the original guy came back to me and wanted $2500 for it. It was up to $710 when I was bidding, so I told him $1K for it and he said he may re-list it and try to get more. I am actually contemplating some other options for next season. I'm thinking of selling the L and building the legacy that I have for the ST class of EMRA.

    -mike
  • rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    Yeah 2500 would be a lot especially with the tranny broken.

    Good luck on your other projects

    Eric
  • rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    Anyone try to put an oil pressure gauge in a subie? Not that it's necessary, but the s-10 I drive to work has one and it's somewhat reassuring to look and see that the oil pump is working.

    Eric
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    I have an oil pressure gauge installed, there is a plug in the rear of the oil gallery that you remove to install a gauge.

      Subaru actually sells the adapter that screws in place of the plug so you can install a gauge.

      Looking down at the front of the motor under the alternator you will see the oil pressure switch,this is the front of the oil gallery.

     Go straight back to the firewall end and you locate the plug you have to remove,but be warned it is a royal PITA to remove the plug and install the adapter and sender due to limited access.
     This where I mounted the gauges the other gauge is a voltmeter.
     &nbspimage

      Cheers Pat.
  • rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    looks cool! Where did you get the gauges? How much was the adapter from Subaru?

    Eric
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Eric, the gauges are Autometer, the gauge pod is for a WRX modified with a heat gun since there is nothing available for a Legacy.

      The adapter was only about ten bucks from a Subaru dealer, I cannot remember the part number but a good parts person should know what you are looking for.

      Cheers Pat.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Autometer?

    I'm suprised you use them Pat. We've had nothing but trouble and cheaply made parts from autometer. I like VDOs personally.

    -mike
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