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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions



  • msealsmseals Posts: 257

    the rpm's of the 99-00 Si's is rather high. It might seem strange at first but you do get use to it. I drive based on feeling not rpm's so it might have been a little easier for me. You have to first realize that the power in the lower cam lobe is around 3500-4500 rpm's. I believe that the performance cam kicks in around 5000-5500 depending on speed, throttle position and gearing.

    To answer you question, I would have to say that 3500 rpm's at 60 mph is about right. A formula that I came up with is ((speed/2)*100)+250=rpms so ((60/2)*100)+250=3250, does that sound about right.
  • msealsmseals Posts: 257
    I wouldn't be too worried about engine wear. This is a well designed engine that has been un use for a long time and with regular maintenance, this engine should be able to easily give you 200k. This engine has been in use here in the US since 92 I believe. It was in use in Japan a few years before that. It is also considered the chevy 350 v-8 or today for tuners. This engine has consistantly been modified to put out an extremely larger amount of HP and torque, thus putting more strain on its components. I would almost go as far as to say that it is very similar to a sport bike engine. Running at 5000 for a consistent amount of time is no big deal for this engine. I also happen to have a CBR600 F4 and the engine similarities are numerous. The bike obviously runs at much higher rpm's but it also has a red line of about 14500 rpm's, not 8000. I run my engine hard once in a while, I consistenly do 80 on the freeway with no complaints. I get my oil changed every 5000 miles and have had nothing but regular maintenance. Oh yeah, I have a 00 that I bought Jan. 4, 2000. I have 48500 miles on it today.
  • beegreenbeegreen Posts: 1
    My new 2002 Civic LX Sedan (500 miles) has a problem with the accelerator pedal. When driving, the pedal vibrates (like an unwanted massage). This is especially noticed during freeway driving. My foot feels numb when I'm finished driving!
    I have returned the car to the dealer twice.
    Both times they have stated that there is nothing wrong.
    This is my fourth Civic ('93,'96,'99) and have never had any problems such as this in the past.
    I can't see this as being "normal".
    Any suggestions would be appreciated.

  • Help-I have a 99 Civic EX and the car starts ocillations at around 40 mph. Feels like going over a series of railroad tracks. Have new tires and wheels balanced. It only occurs around 38-42 mph and I think it is the transmission. Any help?
  • racer11racer11 Posts: 4
    if you have a hatch back i recently had the problem and fixed in an hour.
  • mikemw1mikemw1 Posts: 15
    water is usually coming around tail lights.
  • stknightstknight Posts: 2
    This is the same problem as experienced in posting #1189.

    My '98 Civic EX has just had it's tranny flushed and the linear solenoid replaced to the tune of $450 and it still shifts VERY harshly. It only has 28,000 miles on it and the next step on Honda's list is to replace the transmission on my bill at $4000. The car is out of warranty but I've heard this exact problem with several people so it's obviously a design issue. Does anyone have any feedback, advice or experience on how to proceed??
  • britton2britton2 Posts: 305
    I had an auto '86 Civic - now, I realize there are alot of years between my '86 and your '98 - but mine shifted very harshly too - there's wasn't anything wrong with it -just the way it was - last year I sold it and bought a '01 Corolla - the smoothest-shifting automatic car I've ever driven or ridden in for that matter - I honestly think it's a design issue
  • alyssazmomalyssazmom Posts: 142
    I purchased my 2002 Honda Civic EX Sedan (Blue) in January. Everything has been fine until the past two weeks when the back right passenger door would not open from either inside or out. Took it to the dealer and they said a part broke and instead of repairing it, they wanted to replace the part. So while waiting for the part to come in, they fixed it enough to atleast open it from the outside.

    I pick up my car, go to put my daughter's booster seat in her spot (back right passenger side) and the seat belt is locked and won't give any slack. I'm in too much of a hurry to go back into the service area (hungry child) so I install her booster seat on the left side but I do call them when I get home.

    Service says that it sounds serious, to not use the belt and when my door part comes in they will check it. Three days later the part is in, I get the call about my seat belt. The ball bearings in the seat belt broke and can not be repaired, again, the part has to be replaced which of course has to be ordered. I'm told that under no circumstances to use that belt b/c it will not hold my daughter (or any passenger for that matter) in an accident.

    I'm still waiting for the part to come in but am a bit concerned over what has happened. Maybe I'm jumping the gun a bit but I sold my 1997 Ford Escort for the Honda Civic Sedan so that I wouldn't have to put up with repair problems again (My Escort had constant problems which became to costly after the warranty expired).

    I'm hoping after this there won't be any more problems but my warranty does end at 12 months. Should I have gone with a 2003 Toyota Corolla or 2002 VW Jetta instead?

    Also, has anyone else had any problems with chipping paint? Around the door handle (used and non used doors) and the gas cover is all chipped around the edges, it looks awful.

    I love my Civic but am disappointed. I was hoping that other than normal maintence and the usual upkeep after so many miles, that my Civic would be problem-free...


  • stknightstknight Posts: 2
    Reference: #1189 and #1221

    My dealer contacted American Honda and they have agreed to cover the cost of a new/rebuilt transmission if I cover labor. This is BIG news since a)I bought the car used through CarMax b)it is completely out of warranty. By the time the problem is solved, I will be out $450 for replacing a solenoid/tranny flush and now 7 hours labor for installation of the new tranny at roughly $700. It's expensive and shouldn't have been a problem but my kudos to Honda for fessing up to the problem and helping to cover what could have been a $4000 repair bill.
  • bjk2001bjk2001 Posts: 358

    Don't change your oil at 1500 miles. If you call Honda customer service they will tell you to keep the original oil in there as long as possible. Factory oil has special additive for break in period. I learned this when I purchased my 01 Odyssey and read it thru threads.

  • devoredevore Posts: 39
    Hey folks,

    I've seen a few posts here about Civic struts leaking/losing the gas inside them, and that they make a "clunking" noise when this happens.

    I've noticed that my struts have started "creaking" when I push down on the rear or front right of the car. It's not a "clunk" and I don't hear anything when I drive, but it doesn't seem like the struts should be "squeaking" or "creaking" at this stage (23K miles). Has anyone else experienced this?
  • ronin_88ronin_88 Posts: 18
    Your paint should not be chipping so badly. But that should be covered by your warranty too. I have a 01 EX coupe and the paint is still fine even after a harsh winter up here.

    And why is your warranty up after only 12 months? Your bumper to bumper warranty should be 36 months.
  • ronin_88ronin_88 Posts: 18
    Yes, the front struts for the 2001+ Civics are on backorder all over North America. My left front one was leaking, and I had to wait 6 weeks for the part to come in, but they finally fixed it.
  • devoredevore Posts: 39
    Thanks for the info - but were your struts "creaking" or "clunking"? I'm not sure if my problem is the same as the ones I've been hearing about. I don't hear any clunks, but when I press down on the car, it creaks and squeaks pretty loudly. It might just be a lubrication issue - I do wash my wheel wells pretty vigourously. :)
  • iluvhondasiluvhondas Posts: 2
    My civic (1995, 105K miles) is overheating.

    Radiator cap and thermostat has been changed. No visible leaks. What I have noticed is the radiator seems to be pushing coolant into the overflow tank after the car has been driven for a while (~20miles). This should only happen when the pressure exceeds the rated pressure of the cap (16lbs). The odd thing is the system isn't pulling back the coolant from the overflow tank when the engine cools and the pressure reduces. Therefore, I'm "manually" doing this myself.

    My theory is the head gasket is beginning to crack allowing combustion gases into the cooling system. This would raise the pressure thus "popping" the rad cap. But why wouldn't it pull the coolant back? Any theories?
  • ronin_88ronin_88 Posts: 18
    My one strut (front left) was making all sorts of sounds when going over bumps or potholes. Thuds, gurgles, squeaks, clunks... you name it.

    A good way to tell is by going over a speed bump at very low speed. After the front end lands on the other side, if you feel the shock-absorber "bottoming-out" (i.e., a "thud" that you can actually feel), chances are you have a leaking strut.

    Regardless of the sound, you should get it checked out, since it is covered by your warranty.
  • alyssazmomalyssazmom Posts: 142
    Thanks for posting :) Honda looked at the paint around the gas cover and door handles, buffed the paint chips off and did a bit touch up paint. Lo and behold the paint looks fantastic. They aren't sure why it started to chip since I have had it waxed once since I purchased my Civic in Jan. '02. Just like the door and buckle, no explanation could be given.

    My Civic is once again back at Honda service because they had installed the belt buckle wrong. I just want my Civic back! :0) Despite my recent problems with it (which thankfully haven't been electrical or worse) I would definitely buy my 2002 Honda Civic again in a heartbeat- although maybe in green or silver ;)

    As for my warranty, where I had purchased my Civic just informed me incorrectly. My warranty IS the standard 3 years or 36,000 miles. Now I'm not sure WHAT 12 months/12,000 miles warranty he was talking about. Maybe parts and labor from the time of service?

    Anyway, I just want my Civic back! :)
  • ronin_88ronin_88 Posts: 18
    Glad to hear your paint is back to normal.

    As for the 1 year/12,000 mi warranty, yes, that does sounds like warranty on new parts and service done on your car, but ONLY IF it extends past your original warranty period... meaning if you get some servicing work done after just 1 year of ownership, the warranty on that new servicing work should still last another 2 years under the original bumper-to-bumper warranty of your new car.
  • igloomasterigloomaster Posts: 249
    howdy. weird thing just started happening.

    my gas pedal will stick a bit when starting off or after backing off of the pedal completely and then reapplying pressure.

    for example -- i will apply the normal 'gentle' pressure to get going, and the pedal doesn't want to move. the only way i can describe how it feels is that of an unlubricated door hinge. it takes more muscle to get it to do it's thing.

    adding a little more pressure than i am comfortable/familiar with gets the pedal to work, but results in too much of a burst in speed due to the pressure needed to get the pedal to go down.

    i tried to grease up the joints on the pedal itself, but that didn't help at all. any ideas?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Try an aerosol throttle body cleaner and old toothbrush to clean the throttle plate and throttle body bore.
  • igloomasterigloomaster Posts: 249
    thanks for the suggestion, but where is the throttle plate and throttle body bore? i'm pretty much a novice when it comes to this stuff. are these parts easy to see if i squeeze myself under the car?
  • copyed1copyed1 Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Honda Civic, which has something new to me -- a "shift lock release" beside the shift. It's a little slot that you press a key into.
    More than half the time, when I use the key to turn off the engine, my key will not complete its turn, so I can't get it out. (The engine does go off.) The shift is also stuck at this point.
    I then press another key (I have to keep an extra key in the car) into the shift lock release. I can them shift out of park, shift back into park, and then my key will complete the turn so I can take it out.
    Does anyone else have this problem? Is there a solution?
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    soundsa if your shift position indicator is bad. Does the park light light on when you are having this problem?
  • rangers_frangers_f Posts: 7
    Hey guys:
    I have a 2000 Civic EX coupe. For a few months now, I'v been banging my head trying to find out where an annoying rubbing like noise was coming from. It sounded like two piece of rubber/plastic were rubbing against each other whenever I would run over a bump. Now when the weather gets hot, the noise goes away. I finally figured out that the noise was coming out of the sun roof. I opened the sun roof and ran over the same bumps that I would hear the noise from when close, and nothing. Has anyone run into this same problem? I hope its not much of a problem, would anyone have a clue? Thanks alot.

  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Honda has slip tape available but it is just as easy to pick up some Shinitsu greese from honda and lube the seal when needed. Just apply it all around the sunroof seal and the noise will go away..
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The throttle body is on top. It's the part which the air intake ducting from the air filter attaches to.
  • igloomasterigloomaster Posts: 249
    i just had an oil change and asked the mechanic to look at it; the mechanic said the all of those throttle parts were dirty as hell...
    he cleaned everything up and we're back to normal.

    thanks for the tip!
  • copyed1copyed1 Posts: 2
    Good idea! In fact, the Park light and the Drive light are BOTH on. What do I need to do about it?
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    when first turning on the ignition switch they both can come on but if you are saying that they both stay on once the car is idling then you should disconnect the shift position switch and see if they go out if they do then maybe your switch has gone bad..
This discussion has been closed.