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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions



  • ronin_88ronin_88 Posts: 18
    Yes, this is a very common problem on Hondas. Although other makes of cars have this problem too. You will notice that if you push very gently on the closed sunroof, it will move very slightly, and make that squeaking sound, if your rubber seal is dry. It was driving me nuts whenever I went over bumps. Took me 3 months to figure out where it was coming from.

    Dealer just lubricated the rubber seal with something called Kleen-Slip and cured it.
  • bazilbazil Posts: 5
    I have a 1999 Honda Civic DX with 22000 miles on it, have babied it from the start, and my check engine light has come on! I have done the gas cap routine and it is still on. I read that you can download the trouble codes, and access the LED display to find out what is wrong, but the display is supposed to be somewhere under the carpet on the passenger side of the car, and I can't find it. I also can't afford to take it to be checked, because they charge 1 hour labour here just to take a look.

    Any suggestions?
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Are you out of the normal warranty period. Here in the US it is 3 years 36,000 miles, is Canada differant? On the right side under the glove box frame you should find a few connectors one of them being a 2 pin white or blue connector. That is the one you want to jump the terminals together in order to get a blinking code. However the best way is with a scan tool. When you first checked your gas cap was it loose? If so, then you probably fixed your problem and now need to reset the light.
  • anilsinghanilsingh Posts: 1
    I have a 96 civic Lx with 75K on. The first and second gear shift hard so i took it to the dealer, they said it was the transmission and it need to be rebuilt or replace. I had it replaced with a used one, but the check engine light came on also the the D4 gear selector light on the dash keep flashing; the Guy that changed the transmission for me said I need to get the codes from the old transmission earase and that will solve the problem but the used transmission is still doing the same thing (shifting hard and making a tumping noise). Any idea. I need help please.
  • rickinnj8rickinnj8 Posts: 9
    I have a '96 Civic EX coupe with 83K on it. For the last two years I have noticed raised areas on the front section of the sunroof weather stripping. It appears to be from rust collecting under the rubber. I have an extended warranty, but they only cover the sunroof motor. I have noticed this same thing on lots of other Civics, so I know it's been a problem for many owners. I even noticed that there are TSB's on this subject.

    Has anyone had any luck getting Honda to admit it is a problem and had them fix it? I did get a quote from a local dealer of over $400 to replace the entire sunroof, but before I go that route, I want to see what others think.
  • bazilbazil Posts: 5
    Yes, we have the same warranty, unfortunately mine had just passed the warranty period of 3 years two months ago. I almost wonder if it is some sort of conspiracy! I'm not sure if the gas cap was loose, it didn't seem to be, however, I did have my oil changed about two weeks previously, and wonder if that was the problem, but everything seems fine on that front. As for the location of the LED, when you say under the glove box, do you mean when I take out the glove box, or the square metal box that is under the plastic on the passenger side footwell?
  • beachloverbeachlover Posts: 17
    What I need to know is how to shut off my daytime running lights on my 1990 honda civic hatchback.Anybody have any ideas??TIA
  • gdkarma74gdkarma74 Posts: 11
    Hello all,

    I have a 2002 Civic LX sedan that was purchased in October 2001. I have about 9500 miles on it but I am having a few problems with it that I am finding upsetting. I sold my 1990 Civic DX to buy this new one and it had 189,000 miles on it, so I expected a lot of my new car.

    I have to say that I have baby'd this car and have had only oil changes to this point as far as maintenance is concerned. At about 8,000 miles I started to notice that the car was hestitating when I started in the morning or after it had been sitting for a while. I live in northeast so most of the times when it would sit it was cold, so I thought maybe the warmer weather would change things. I was wrong the problem only got worse.

    In addition to the starting issue, I have noticed that the car seems to rev extremely high before the automatic trans decides to shift gears. Also the exhaust seems to be getting louder. Cosmetically I have 2 bigs paint chips right down to the sheet metal on my hood and many on the front grill, not to mention that my factory brand new windshield wipers actually scratched my windshield! Aside from the tell-tale 88-91 body rust that my old civic suffered from the paint was never chipped like it is on my new car??? I am wondering what has happend to Honda's quality?

    The car has been at the dealership for 2 days now while they try work out all these problems. They are replacing my windshield acknowledging that the wipers caused the damage. They have told me the starting problem was been present in Accords but mine is the first Civic they had seen. They contact Honda Engineers and were told that the starting issue is due to the valves being too tight?? SO they have adjusted the valves and are holding the car overnight to test the start in the morning. They still have no answer for me as to why the engines is revving so high before shifting or why the exhaust is loud.

    I have to say that I am not pleased with the list of problems I am having so early on in this cars life, I was planning on having this car for 6-10 years thining it would pass the test with flying colors. I am also having problems with my local dealerships because I didn't buy the car from them. Has anyone else been having these issues. I went 45 minutes away so that I could get the car for $200 over invoice plus $60 application fee, none of my local dealers would budge. I still thought I would get good service but it doesn't seem to be the case. I was thinking of contacting Honda corporate about this.

    Sorry for the long post but I wanted to know if anyone else has been having these problems and what your dealerships have done for you.

    Thanks for any info.
  • gasguzzgasguzz Posts: 214
    "why the engines is revving so high before shifting"
    Honda's "normally" have high-rev engines, that's where the power is. Where is it shifting exactly (in gears/RPMs)? It will also rev higher in the a.m. until it warms (thank you EPA).
  • rangers_frangers_f Posts: 7
    If you go to the Honda web page, you can put in your VIN number of your Honda and it will tell you whether your specific car has a recall on it or not. When I first bought my car, the dealer gave me this service booklet that I "should" follow. The booklet is following the severe driving conditions servicing. At first I went by the thing, until I looked at the owners manual. I am almost at my 22,500 service and the dealers booklet tells me to have the mechanics check out all this BS and the only real service being done is an Oil Change and Tire Rotated. Check this check that. Like they are really checking that crap. So unless you guys are in "severe driving conditions" watch out to the dealers BS servicing. The dealers mechanics are the same crooks as anyone else. They just hide behind the "honesty" of the Honda dealers name. What a joke.
  • bjk2001bjk2001 Posts: 358

    You know your local Honda dealers have their own maintenance schedule. Typical they will do more than manufacturer's suggested. Selling car just part of their business, service is more of their business especially @ their rate. Also most of the time dealer's service department has to purchase parts from dealer's parts department. You can imagine their mark up.

    Best is to follow Owner's manual, I think it has more detaisl than Honda owner's link website schedule.


  • mogeemogee Posts: 1
    Help Auburn63, brorjace, everybody!!

    2000 Civic 5 speed, ~ 26k, regularly maintained. Problems:

    1. Most troubling: Since I first bought my "old man" car, when accelerating, it feels like something is pushing on the car and holding it back, until something kicks in, and the car finally accerlerates like it should. I am not expecting the car to go 0-60 in 2 seconds, but the delayed acceleration is not normal. My sister's 12 y.o 110k Corolla has smoother pick-up than my Honda. Dealer could not find anything. Ideas?

    2. Since I first bought the car, I infrequently encounter excessive engine churning when I try to start the car. Only seems to happen within 1-6 hours after the car has been driven, not after car has been sitting overnight. Again, dealer found nothing.

    3. Lately, clutch is making ratchet-like sound after city driving for 8-10 miles. Happens when pedal is pushed down and released. Dealer oiled it; no change. Clutch performs ok, just noisy.

    I plan to go to another dealer before warranty is up, but I would love to know where to tell the dealer to look to diagnose/cure the problems and recognize any dealer b.s. All help is greatly appreciated!
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    For problem 1, have you tried a differant brand of gas? Maybe even try a tank or two of Techron fuel additive or a fuel injection service. Other than that cant think of anything.

    have no idea on other two problems without being able to check it out. Possibly a TW sensor on the hot restart but thats a long shot..
  • igloomasterigloomaster Posts: 249
    thinking of buying a 2002 LX auto w/a/c.

    I'm a musician and will be transporting roughly 300 - 400lbs of cargo in the trunk and some in the back seat -- -- on a regular basis.

    No, I don't want a truck or van.

    Question: can the Civic 1.7 liter engine handle carrying this weight, or will it be constantly straining and thus could wear out fast?

    I guess the weight is about the same as transporting 3 adult passengers in addition to the adult male driver, all the time.

    Anybody have any experience to share?
  • ronin_88ronin_88 Posts: 18
    Regarding your paint chipping issue, this is a very common problem on almost ALL new cars these days. People on a Mazda board I go to have a huge beef with this issue. New cars these days seem to have very thin paint and clear coats compared to older cars, so I wouldn't worry about it. It may look nicer than before, but I agree that it is more fragile.
  • ronin_88ronin_88 Posts: 18
    3-400 lbs should be fine for your LX. Your mileage might to down a bit, but it shouldn't overly strain your engine.
  • spokanespokane Posts: 514
    400 pounds of cargo plus the driver is borderline for the Civic. Check the GVW label. However, if 300 pounds or more of the load are in the trunk, handling would be poor and the rear suspension will be almost bottomed. But you need not speculate - try it. Load up a demonstrator, and give it a try over the types of roads you expect to travel. If the rear suspension performs OK, you could go ahead with this choice at the expense of some wheel alignment difficulty, poorer tire life and the handling deficiencies which you already evaluated. Engine, transmission, brakes, and other systems should tolerate this load OK if you are within the GVW limitation.
  • casecom2casecom2 Posts: 72
    Hi all. I have a '96 LX Sedan, auto trans.

    My problem is on a cold start, a clacking noise (knock? ping? Not sure) comes from the engine for a few minutes until the engine warms up. Sometimes the noise is loud, sometimes soft; it speeds up with the RPM of the engine. It happens during idle as well as acceleration, although it can be louder during acceleration. When the engine warms up the noise disappears.

    It happens only in cold or cool weather, mostly 55 degrees F or below. If it's 80-degree weather: no noise.

    I thought it was maybe an oil problem, but I took it into the dealer last winter (left it overnight so they'd have a cold start) and they dismissed it as "normal fuel injector noise."

    But the problem persists, and it's gradually getting worse each winter. It didn't happen at all for the car's first three years or so.

    I've kept up with all scheduled maintenance. Oil is 5W30, as per owner's manual. Level is good.

    Any ideas? Car is in fine shape otherwise. Should I have the fuel injectors cleaned?
  • acuraowneracuraowner Posts: 57
    Sounds like you may need a valve adjustment, have you ever had this done? It should be done every 30,000 miles.
  • casecom2casecom2 Posts: 72
    thanks for the response ... I searched for "valve adjustment" on the Web and you're right, I do show the symptoms of needing one.

    Funny thing is, I looked up my receipt for my 60,000 maintenance from last summer (cost: $395) and sure enough "Adjust Engine Valve Clearance" is on the checklist. I bet they just never did it.

    Is this something I should have done now to prevent damage to the engine, or should I wait until fall when the problem will become more evident?
  • acuraowneracuraowner Posts: 57
    I can't say for sure whether it will hurt anything or not. You might want to go to another dealership to have it checked out.

    My Integra (which had a valve adjustment within the last 3,000 miles) has pretty much the same symptoms as your car, slight knocking (not loud though) for the first 5 minutes or so on cool mornings and sometimes no knocking at all. I just attribute it to old age (my car has over 100,000 miles).

    Still get it checked though. They may have not done it properly or just did not do it at all.
  • RonaHRonaH Posts: 12
    Anyone with any info about the dimming of the headlights on a 2002 Civic EX when the compressor in the A/C system comes on? Thanks!
  • Hi All! I am not a mechanic, so please bear with me. I am hoping that someone may have some ideas. Here is the timeline of problems with my 1996 Civic LX with 110K miles:

    --Two months ago: My check engine light comes on. I don't think too much of it and promise myself to have it looked at in a couple of weeks...

    --6 weeks ago: My check engine light is still on, and my speedometer quits. At this point I decide to bring her in.

    --First Mechanic Work: My first mechanic tells me that I need new o2 sensors and a new alternator, so I get both.

    --10 days after going to first mechanic: my check engine light comes back on, my speedometer quits (at same time) and lights in dash begin to blink. The next day, the car dies driving home from work (10 miles).

    --Second Mechanic: I bring my car to a new mechanic who tells me the alternator that was placed in my car was no good and I need a new one. I go ahead and get a new alternator. 5 days later, the check engine light comes back on, the speedometer quits and the dash lights start blinking (same time). A couple of days later, the car is AGAIN dead.

    --Second Mechanic, second time: I bring my car back to the mechanic. He charges up my battery, clears the check engine codes from the computer and touches the fuse with some tool ( I don't know what it is). The car will run perfectly for a couple of days, and then the same things will happen again.

    This is were I am at now. I can't afford to keep putting money into this vehicle, but I love it and would like to fix it. I think that my mechanic is bewildered, but I am not sure. I am starting to think that the Fuse attached to the Alternator and Speedometer is broken or something, since both things quit at the same time.

    Can anyone out there PLEASE give me some ideas???? I would be eternally grateful to you!!

    Thanks in advance for any help!

  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    I am almost for sure that there is an old service bulletin that covers your problem. There is a wire harness that rubs up against the support bracket for the intake manifold under the manifold. When this wire rubs through it blows a fuse and causes a check engine light with multiple codes listed on the computer. Speed sensor,ELD and others, the ELD is what controls the alternator output so there is the one tie in and the speed sensor ties into the speedometer. So it sounds as if this maybe your problem. I will try and remember to get the bulletin tomorrow but I do get busy and forget sometimes so if I don't get back soon then just remind me...The repair is simply to repair and or tape off the area the wire is rubbing through as well as relocating it just a bit, then replace the fuse all done from under the car so you need a lift. I'll get back soon with the bulletin
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    You are probably going to find that this momentary dimming of the dash lights is a normal thing. Any electrical load is sensed by the ELD and then it decides what the alternator output should be, this brain like control takes a 1/2 a secound or so to react which is what you notice in the dash lights. First being the extra load lowering the voltage and then the correction by the ELD bringing it back to normal...
  • Hi: Thank you so much for looking into this for me........again my car died on my way into work, so I was late arriving and made my boss angry, so I would LOVE to have something to bring to my mechanic as an idea. Thanks for your help!!
  • auburn63auburn63 Posts: 1,162
    Ok there is a service bulletin and its number is 99-029. If it is a code P1298,P0135,P0501 or P0141 and the fuse blowing is a 7.5 amp in the under dash fuse box(fuse#15) then this is definitly your problem as I have seen a few over the years. The service bulletin doesnt really say much more than I did in my last post, to fix remove the intake bracket, tape the wires that look as though they may rub , re-route if necessary then reinstall bracket and pop in the fuse.Clear the codes on the computer. If you have a local Honda dealer give them a call and see if they have done this repair before and how much they charge because if it is not too much then that maybe the best way to go, because if it is not done good(or right) then it may happen again leaving you to wonder about the repair altogether.Good luck
  • hey man, thanks soooo much. i am calling my dealer right now to ask them what it might cost! i really appreciate your help on this, it seemed like no matter who i asked no on had any ideas!! i will let you know how it goes! thank you thank you thank you!!

  • mrb068mrb068 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Civic EX; for about the past 6 months I have been hearing terrible brake chatter in the front right. It only happens after the car has been driven for 20 or 30 minutes. The noice sounds like the ABS system is being activated but only in that wheel. When I start coming to a stop I hear a boiling sound, right after this the chatter starts. It is actually more of a grinding chatter. It sounds exactly like the brake pad has worn completely off and it is just metal to metal, but the pads are in almost new like condition. I have taken it to the dealership and they cannot duplicate the problem, but then again they don't drive it for 30 minutes either. They have only offered one explanation. My front tires are unevenly worn, they say this maybe causing extra strain on the brakes causeing them to chatter. I don't think this is the problem though.
  • bazilbazil Posts: 5
    I've had the check engine light come on in my 1999 Honda Civic Hatchback. I checked the codes that it was sending, and it sent back 41 (Primary Oxygen Sensor Fault Indicator). I got the Haynes manual for the car and did all the checks that are suggested for the sensor, but everything checked out fine. However, I also tested the secondary oxygen sensor, and the reading for the voltage came back a little off. Checking the manual though, there are different trouble codes for the secondary oxygen sensor as opposed to the primary oxygen sensor, and I'm only getting one code. I have reset the code, but the check engine light immediately comes on when I start the car. I'm leery to replace both sensors, as they are $220 each from Honda.

    Any suggestions? Am I doing major damage by driving with this problem?
This discussion has been closed.