"Warm" to me, is when the interior of the vehicle is comfortable on a cold morning. On the average moring, the engine might be running in the driveway about five minutes. On a cold morning, the engine might be running about ten minutes. On a VERY cold morning, the engine might be running fifteen minutes. Not only does this practice "warm up" the inside of the vehicle, but it also warms up the engine oil and the transmission fluid,(throught the oil flow in the Torque Converter), and the oil is circulating around the engine before a "load" is put on the power train. If you drive a vehicle that has been allowed to warm up, you can feel the difference in the "peformance of the engine" right out of the driveway, (as opposed to a cold power train). The automotive engineers tell the consumer that this practice is not necessary, because they are concerned about the EPA numbers. They are not concerned about the longevity of the vehicle, after 3 years or 36,000 miles. The same is true for extended oil and filter changes. I have been doing this all my life, and my vehicles have never burned oil or had strange engine noises as the vehicle got older. One of my vehicles, (a 1977 Ford Granada), had 182,000 miles on the clock, when I traded it at a dealer for a used 4 door full size Mercury. Frequent oil and filter changes, and warming up the vehicle in cold weather brought the vehicle to this point. People who own boats (inboards, outboards or I/O engines) would never leave the slip without first warming up the engine to normal operating temperature. In the case of an inboard or an I/O engine that would be 175 on the Temp gauge. I am only sharing some basic information with people who might be interested. Engineers are not always correct in their approach to mechanical issues. Just look at some of the automotive problems in vehicles and the "call backs" to see examples of this in the "Real World". Honda builds a "quality product", but it has some problems, (V6 trans, and brake issues). You would think that after all the years of experience, Honda would not have issues like this. Everything looks good on the Drafting Table or the CAD computer, but in the "real world" of everyday use, other issues come into the equation. --------Just my opinion. -----Have a nice day. ---Greg
1989 Honda Accord Lxi that used to be in our family. 5-6k between oil and filter changes, warm ups max were 1 minute unless there was ice buildup on the windows. The thing used about a quart of oil between change intervals. I do believe the odometer read about 279,500 miles before we retired her on original engine and trans. I agree that a warm engine does provide better performance, however I don't need all that extra "performance of the engine" right out of the driveway when I'll be traveling at about 30 mph for a couple of miles before I get out of the residential area. I think today engineers are more concerned with the life of the vehicle beyond the warranty. If they made a car to last 36,000 miles, the company would be out of business. I do believe the big three attempted something like that several years back, and they lost a lot of market to the foreign companies (Honda, Nissan etc.)
I just changed the air filter on my 2003 Civic LX sedan (not the in-cabin pollen filter. The air filter on the engine.). My car just clocked over 15,200 miles and the old filter was grey with dust.
I bought the new OEM air filter from my local Honda dealership. My question is, should the air filter be oily? You can touch the paper fins (not sure what that part is really called) and they are moist with an oily substance.
My old air filter is also oily, so I guess they're supposed to be like that, but does the oil improve the performance of the filter? Maybe trap more contaminants?
When valve guides wear, the "valve action" becomes "sloppy"! The valves do not seat properly, and as such, they do not transfer heat to the seat or the guide. (There is a build up of heat in the valve). In addition, oil and air enters the combustion chamber through the worn guide. While both can create problems, the "extra air" can cause a "lean condition" in the combustion chamber, because the computer has not accounted for this additional air since it did not come past the "mass air flow sensor" in the "intake system". This could cause "driveability problems" and / or a rough idle and / or major engine damage from running a lean mixture. Preventing valve guide wear is "key" to this problem. -----Just my opinion. -----Greg.
Yes your filter should have a slight oily feeling to it. I do believe you are right to trapping more contaminants because a dried out filter would allow dust to blow around and possibly penetrate the filter. I have a performance intake in my car with a K&N filter on it. It came with a recharging kit and what you actually do is clean it and then put spray on this oily concentrate. Too bad you already bought your OEM filter. I would have recommended a K&N filter which fits in the stock box. They give slightly better flow and are guaranteed for 1,000,000 miles with regular cleaning the same way I do mine approxomately every 30,000 miles. Just out of curiosity, what kind of climate do you drive in? I'm surprised an air filter was already that dirty on you. Anyhow hope this helps and I recommend buying a K&N filter next time around.
Currently I own a 200,000 mile+ Civic that never has had an engine repair. It thrives on the 5k oil changes, it runs strong and smoothly. I rarely warm it up in New England unless I need to scrape windshield and keep oil regularly changed at 5k, regular fuel and no additives. Honda does not lie when they state use regular fuel and additives don't do much to add to cost of vehicle.
I had the same experience with my earlier Honda. What experience do you cite your responses from? I know other owners of what you must consider "high" mileage Honda's which I consider normal and they have had similar experiences.
Thanks for the info about the air filter. I've heard of K & N filters but thought that they were for performance cars only. Are they really that much better than an OEM Honda filter? Do they give the engine a little more power? How much more do they cost compared to the $20 Honda filter?
By the way, the climate in the Northern CA bay area isn't extreme. As cold as we get is 40's and in summer maybe up to 105. The only reason why I change my air filter so often is that I drive in dusty areas. There are tons of diesel trucks hauling dirt and gravel on the freeways that I drive on every day. Not to mention all the diesel fumes and soot from the big rigs themselves, and pollen from the trees and grassy hills near the freeway. Anyone who drives the 24/680 freeways from the Caldecott tunnel through Concord knows what I'm talking about. The freeways are always congested with traffic and you will always pass at least 10 if not more diesel trucks hauling dirt.
Read some books dealing with automotive gasoline engine operation & design, cooling system operation, the lubrication system and engine rebuilding! ----- Just because "Honda" states that a "fuel lubricant" is not needed, doesn't mean that it is not helpful to the "total engine operation". The longer the engine can maintain the original "valve stem to giude clearances of a new engine" the better the engine performance quality in it's lifetime. Once the clearance increases there is a "heat transfer problem", and carbon & gum find their way into this area causing the valve to stick in the guide. The engine then develops "slow valve action"! This is especially important at high RPM, when the engine is trying to get as much air / fuel mixture into the cylinder as possible. Frequent oil and filter changes, and a fuel lubricant are helpful to an engine. I am just sharing some basic information with people who might have an interest in this subject. If performance cannot be improved using "aftermarket products", then why do you see owners installing aftermarket air intake systems on Honda engines? Proper "breathing" is the "key" to engine performance, and smooth valve operation is the "key" to proper engine breathing! ---- Just my opinion. Nothing personal! ----Have a nice day. ----Greg
It was a VERY interesting article. But I do not operate my vehicles on a "test track". I operate them in daily "bumper to bumper traffic", high speed acceleration and daily short trip operation. Even in new engines, variations exist from cylinder - to - cylinder, because of differences in manifolding and injectors, and these engines are considered to be in good to excellent condition. ---- Those variations increase with engine wear, carbon build up in the individual cylinders, valve seating clearances and stem clearances, injector clogging, and deposits that form on intake valves. ---- In addition, the fuel quality may vary from one tankfull to the next tankfull, so a little extra octane cannot hurt the engine, ----it can only help the over all performance. ---- On most vehicles open loop operation is used at: start & warm up of the engine, clear flood mode, WOT / acceleration, and deceleration. ----Open loop does not use oxygen sensor information. Rather the computer calculates the fuel injector pulse width from the inputs of: ---- intake air temp., engine coolant temp., manifold absolute pressure, mass air flow, throttle position and engine RPM. ---- During cold engine warm up and acceleration, on a cold morning, it is nice to have a little lubrication for the valve faces and guides, the upper cylinder area, the rings, the fuel injectors and the fuel pump. ---- The amount of fuel the injector provides is determined by the "fuel pressure" and "how long the injector is opened". ----A fuel injector could cause a rich mixture if: --- The pressure regulator is defective, the fuel pressure is too high, the injector leaks when not being triggered and / or the pressure regulator vacuum line is restricted. ---- In the other side of the issue, a fuel injector could cause a lean mixture if: ---- The pressure regulated is defective, the injector has fuel flow related blockage, the injector sticks or binds when being triggered. ----So you can see keeping the fuel injector clean and lubricated is an important issue with regards to fuel injector component operation and toatl engine performance. ----I guess the bottom line to the whole issue is that you have to make your own decision about using a fuel lubrication additive in the fuel of the vehicle. There are many high quality products on the market, some very expensive and some very reasonable in price. They all do basically the same thing. -----Have a nice day. ------Greg
I found a slight increase in power with the K&N filter when I installed it in my 95 Civic. I don't have any numbers for you so maybe it might just have been a psycological thing . I believe the price was $39 when I bought it 2 years ago. Just go to your local auto parts store and they can get the right one for you. Then what you do is buy the cleaning/recharger kit for $10 to maintain the filter. They basically put a lifetime guarantee on the filter if you keep up with the cleaning when the filter gets dirty. Unless you plan on driving 1,000,000 miles on that car. Your driving conditions clearly explain why you needed a new one already. PS: If you're really looking for a little extra boost I highly recommend the AEM V2 intake which I currently have in my 03 EX coupe. It is a direct fit and not a universal part
I found the answer to my trouble code question on www.troublecodes.net, but I've got another question.... The trouble code shows there's an EVAP Emission Control System Leak Detected in the fuel tank system. I've found a TSB on it, can I take the info from the TSB to the dealership and have it fixed like you would with a recall?
Is the engine light still on? You should be able to take it to the dealer and they should be able to pull the code from the computer themselves. They will only fix the car to their diagnosis they come up with. If it is under warrranty there will be no out of pocket cost to you.
I own a 97 Honda civic DX sedan. I live in Minnesota where the weather is cold. I have owned this vehicle for 7 years and this winter I started noticing a ticking type noise in my engine when I start the car in the cold mornings. It lasts for about 1 mile down the road and then goes away. the honda dealer told me i have piston slap and need to replace the short block. The estimate for the repair is over $5,000. Does anyone who has this type of honda have this problem? And if you do, did you tell honda about it and if so what did they do? I only have 87,000 miles on my car and they are telling me i need a new engine?? Any help would be greatly appreciated....
There is a "BIG difference" between a "ticking type noise" and a "piston slap"! Questions: ---How often do you change your engine oil? ---- Are you using the correct type of oil for your engine? Doesn't a 1997 Honda engine need a "valve adjustment" at specific mileage intervals? At 87,000 miles you are in the range of a "timing belt replacement"! Suggestion: ---Take this vehicle to a different Honda dealer and ask them to trouble shoot this problem. With this second opinion, you can then make some good decisions. -----Just my opinion. ----Greg
I would also recommend a second opinion. Engines can get a little noisy if the valve clearance gets out of adjustment. However if you do end up needing a new engine then I would go elsewhere to a qualified engine/transmission shop to save you $$$$. Sometimes those places even have fairly new SOHC VTEC's (found in the ex models) laying around from people that swapped theirs out with a B16a or B18c etc. You could go with the dealer and get a new engine they put in the DX's, but if were in your position with a 7 year old car I would just buy a used engine and possbily get a better engine out of the deal for less money. Basically the same thing as buying a used car. Good luck.
i change the oil every 3000 miles with 5W30 as recommended. I can't even get another dealer to listen to the noise for less than $100 diagnostic fee. I've called 4 other dealers in my area and they all will charge me. I will have $300 into the car before I even know what the problem is. Anyone out there with piston slap in a honda vehicle??????
I recommend first finding a reputable Honda specialized shop. Indpendant first then dealer if you can't find a decent ind. Honda shop. Of course they need to charge you to diagnose, no one over the internet is going to be able help you as each problem especially a potentially major one as yours since a sound is difficult to convey.
I would ask for an estimate for repair from an independant, I think you will cut your price significantly. It could be noisy valves that need adjustment or work. I would not throw in the towel with the first shops diagnosis.
"bumper to bumper traffic" is much less severe than a track. A track is full accelaration with each shift to near or at redline and then extreme stops. If you ever see a car test drive they take them to extremes. This includes revving the engine in neutral dropping into gear or holding brake and revving in gear (automatic) then letting go. You never encounter these conditions so a test track is more extreme.
You have no basis for the longevity of your methods except hearsy and some information mostly based on advertising and extrapolation of read material. You have never kept a Honda vehicle as you mention past 100k miles. Many people who write to this board have experince with 150k+ and personally I have into the 200's. The first problem with your advice to others is implying an non-needed cost is required to operate the vehicle. They last fine without the extra's as I have and many have found.
Noises are hard to diag over the internet but if you want you can try and tell us what it sounds like. Valves can make noise and if you havent adjusted them they could be a source of the problem,however, typically the valve noise would only get slightly better when warm and not completely go away. Valve train noise is more of a tick. A knocking sound is either lower bearings or piston slap. Piston slap will usally get better/go away once the car warms up a little bit, where as a bearing knock will only get a little quieter but not completely go away. If I didnt confuse you too much with this post and if you think you probably have the piston slap, then my suggestion would be not to worry about it much as it doesnt usally get any worse than the cold noise it makes and once warm it is ok. If it did get worse in the future then all you did was buy yourself some time since the repair would be to replace or rebuild anyhow..Good luck
When your go to a "Doctor" you pay a "diagnostic fee"! ---- Why would a service department of a new car dealership be any different? You stated that a new engine would cost $5,000 dollars. You also stated that you have 87,000 miles on the vehicle. QUESTION: ----Did you replace the timing belt on this engine? Timing belts can cause some strange sounds. I would spend the extra $100.00 to get a second opinion. Without information you cannot make an "informed decision". -----Just my opinion. -----Greg
Thanks to everyone that responded in regards to my ticking noise which the dealer said is piston slap. It sounds like its coming from under the spark plugs somewhere. I am no mechanic but its not like a real knocking sound. When i would start driving the car when it wasn't warmed up it almost sounded like something was loose or more of a ticking sound than a knocking sound. Then after a mile i didn't hear it anymore. Well we are getting a huge snowstorm here in minnesota today and i took the car out. i haven't had the timing belt replaced yet but am due for that maintenace soon at 90,000. I have automatic transmission and the car was difficult to shift from drive back to park. Now i wonder what thats all about. Shifting back to park seemed more difficult than normal. Any ideas of what that might be? And also the gas pedal seems a bit hard to push down. I am trying to merge onto the freeway and the car doesn't seem to want to go and the gas is harder than normal to push. any ideas as to what that might be???? anyone please help.....thanks
I have a 2004 Honda Civic Coupe EX with manual trans. I just purchased a set of those Xenon lightbulbs, both low and high beam. Yesterday, I popped open the hood and I having some difficulty replacing the front head light bulbs. Can anyone help? Do I have to remove the headlight assembly?
Have you had a problem with the heater on your late model Civic? I am on my second Civic sedan LX. This one's heater only seems to heat the car when I am driving on the highway. The dealer replaced a thermostat, but that did nothing, and now they won't help anymore. They say the poor heat is because of an aluminium engine block. Bologna, says I. My 92 Civic had a tremendous heater. Any ideas on how to proceed?
Look in your Owner's Manual for "Customer Relations Information" for Honda's suggestions for resolving dealer problems. They first suggest you talk to the Service Manager or General Manager of the dealership, and if the issue is still unresolved they provide contact information for the Honda Customer Relations Office.
I have a 2001 EX coupe with the same creaking problem that many others have noticed. After taking the car in 3 times for this problem, my mechanic found the right rear strut to be "shot" and replaced both rear struts. Didn't work. Although the car is handling much better, the annoying creak is still there. Has anyone tried replacing the Damper Mounting Base suggested by 'Spokane' and had successful results? I'm trying to sell the car and have no good explanation for the noise. I wouldn't buy the car if I heard it on a test drive.
This is in response to posts #2688 & 2692. My girlfriend and I are considering buying a new (2004) Civic, but we heard these "gurgling" and very high-pitched "jet engine" sounds when accelerating during test drives and just aren't sure we can live with them forever (we keep cars a long time). The gurgling can be heard with the car parked when revving the engine, but the "jet engine" is only when the car is moving. We'd be very interested to hear any solutions people come up with.
We tested a bunch of Civics, and they all had the gurgling. All but a used 2002 and the hybrid had the "jet engine" sound, but this sound was less noticeable on the automatic transmission cars. The service technician thought the sound might be because of what he called "break-in" fluids. Apparently, new cars have special fluids called break-in fluids that get changed out with regular fluids at the first oil change. Because they're different, the engine can make noises with them that it won't make after they get changed out.
We've been on the lookout for any 2004's out there that have had their first oil change, but we can't find any. If anybody out there has one, we'd be very interested to know if you've noticed a change in the noises your car makes since that first oil change.
I'm lost on what you guys are talking about. I have an 04 Civic LX 4-dr automatic. It is the quietest of any compact car that I have driven and I have driven everyone of them. The only break-in fluid is the engine oil and changing it won't make any difference in the engine sound. Try driving another Civic, if you don't like the sound of the car, it's time to spend more money and move up to a bigger class of vehicle with a six cylinder that will be quieter for you. The sound the vehicle makes while you rev the engine up should not be a factor away, just the sound it makes while you are driving down the road.
I wouldn't describe the noise as a jet engine noise, I would describe it more like an electric engine noise. I feel like I'm driving a Hybrid Civic and I kinda like it. It isn't intrusive or annoying at all. Hope that helps a bit.
I am close to finalizing the purchase of a 2004 Civic (my first new car). Two questions I have:
1. What is the proper way of breaking it in? I understand there are differing opinions on this topic. 2. What kind of oil should be used, and when should the first oil change take place?
OK, here are 2 question I know are not answered in the owner's manual:
My 1992 Civic EX (183k) has recently developed problems with the blower. It still works more or less on the lowest setting, but anything above that and it will make a very loud, unpleasant, constant noise. Also, even if it's on "1" and I drive over the slightest bump or pothole, it will start making the noise too (until I turn it off and back on). What do you think it is and how expensive would it be to fix?
The other noise I'm getting is when I start from a complete standstill. As I begin to move slowly, I hear a sort of whining noise that seems to be coming from the front, right side (wheel?). This only happens at very low speeds (less than 3-4 mph) - as soon as I begin to move a little faster, the noise ceases. Any ideas?
The blower motor could be on its way out. The internal components (brushes etc.) start going bad and the motor starts doing funny things. I'm thinking your blower motor will need to be replaced. Your best bed is to find a wrecked 92-95 Civic Ex and they can part out a blower motor for you. I believe they are located behind the glovebox so its not completely inaccessable. Unless it is something electrical then that is another story that I couldn't answer for you. With your other noise I'm not exactly sure what you mean by a whining sound, but I would take a look at the condition of your brake pads. It may be your wear indicators hitting the rotors which means time for a new set of brake pads! Sometimes the wear indicators won't make any noise while driving at higher speeds and won't go off at all while braking. At least thats my past experience...Anyhow good luck.
I have a 97 Civic EX with about 83,000. I started hearing a clicking/tapping/popcorn popping sound in the front of my vehicle at 60,000 (10/2/02). The Honda dealer adjusted the valves to factory standards - sound remained. I took my Civic to another Honda dealer on 12/23/02. They could not detect anything and adjusted the engine valves again - sound remained. I had a powertrain and non-powertrain warranty set to expire in March 2003, so I wanted this problem fixed under the warranty to avoid unnecessary costs at a later date. On 2/19/03 I took my car to the dealer and they said not to worry. They gave me a "Honda ServiceNews - March 00" flyer...that apparently Honda provides to mechanics on how to fix certain problems. It states, "COLD START KNOCK - To some degree, a cold start knock (piston slap) is a normal characteristic on 4-stroke gasoline engines. It happens when the engine is cold (piston-to-cylinder clearance at its greatest, and most of the idol has drained back into the pan). As the engine warms up, the knock should quickly diminish, usually with 2 to 3 minutes." I guess I accept this explanation. My car still clicks...but has been fine otherwise. Too bad Honda did not explain this before I spent money at two different dealerships for valve adjustments. I love my Civic, but personally feel that the dealership often takes advantage of me because I am none the wiser.
Lexie, you shouldn't have to pay TWICE for a valve adjustment, especially if a Honda dealer did the 1st adjustment! When you went to the 2nd Honda dealer, didn't you show them the receipt from the 1st dealer(indicating a valve adjustment had been performed)? Since only 2 months was the difference in service visits what rationale (if any) did they offer you for the 2nd adjustment?
Now that all of you mention this clicking noise, I do recall my 95 Civic did the same thing when I owned it. It only happened on cold mornings (<20 degrees) and it went away after a couple of minutes. I sold it without ever having engine problems around 120,000 miles. I have yet to experience this on my 2003 Civic.
1) Drive the car easy for the first 1000 miles. Don't accelerate full throttle. Otherwise just drive normal, speed is indifferent also.
2) Honda uses special break in oil. Go the full interval ie 5000 miles. People will tell you about shavings but these don't really exists (old timers tale). If you are uncomfortable with long interval do at least 3000 miles with special break in oil. As far as oil use 5W-20 as prescribed by owners manual. Lastly google "Bob is the oil Guy".
I need someones opinion or experience. Amazingly the dealer has failed me!!!.
My 2001 Civic coup ex has 40K miles.
The car was fine in the am on my 30 mile ride to the office.
When I came out of the office the transmission would not engage although I was able to shift to the different gears, but there was no response from the car. The engine would rev. It was as if the transmission was not getting the signal to go into gear.
I was towed to the dealer. The car sat overnight. In the am the service manager wrote up the work order and confirmed what I had told him. The could would not engage.
Later in the day they called me to say that the mechanic started the car up, shifted gears and engaged them normally, drove 15 minutes and was unable to find the problem. They said they did all the necessary "tests".
Any ideas what could cause this to occur, then "magically" return to normal.?
At least it's now more than 2 people here who's experienced some sort of noise issue(s) with the 04 Civics.
I wouldn't describe the noise my Civic makes as like a 'jet engine' but more like a high pitched whine. Also the gurgling noise that you described, I would describe that other noise as some sort of 'trickling' noise that liquids make when they travel through pipes or metal surfaces. Then there's the low-pitched buzz...I'm basically repeating myself again of what I've said a few pages ago.
With all these transmissions relying more and more on electronics these days, the computer problably just needs to be reprogrammed. My dad has a 2002 Trailblazer. Different car but same story. He got in the car one day and the transmission would not engage into any forward gear. He took it in and all they did was reprogram the system and it has worked fine ever since. Unless you have noticed abnormal shifting when the transmission was engaging you might have a different problem. Hopefully Honda can figure out the problem themselves for you. Try a different dealer if its convenient for you. That can make a difference sometimes. Good luck! Nick
1997 LX - 150k - manual I can be driving down the road, doesn't matter what gear, RPM, or Speed; With my foot on the accelerator, it's like the gas is completely cut off. I can be going say 70, the car will "jerk", then starts slowing down like it isn't getting any gas. All of a sudden (maybe 2-3 seconds), it's like the gas is cut back on and it resumes previous accelleration. It's so bad at times, I have actually caught 3rd gear on the freeway. It's actually pretty dangerous, almost got slammed by an SUV on the freeway last night because of the stalling.
The bizzaro thing is that it's an intermittant problem that has been occurring for the past 5yrs or so and no mechanic (dealership & private) has been able to duplicate the problem. It will go about 6mnths running fine, then for about a week or two it will intermittantly start doing it again. Then it will stop for another few months.
This is the only problem I have ever had with this car and I really can't afford to get rid of it. I think all these men think I'm just imaining it
1997 LX - 150k - manual I can be driving down the road, doesn't matter what gear, RPM, or Speed; With my foot on the accelerator, it's like the gas is completely cut off. I can be going say 70, the car will "jerk", then starts slowing down like it isn't getting any gas. All of a sudden (maybe 2-3 seconds), it's like the gas is cut back on and it resumes previous accelleration. It's so bad at times, I have actually caught 3rd gear on the freeway. It's actually pretty dangerous, almost got slammed by an SUV on the freeway last night because of the stalling.
The bizzaro thing is that it's an intermittant problem that has been occurring for the past 5yrs or so and no mechanic (dealership & private) has been able to duplicate the problem. It will go about 6mnths running fine, then for about a week or two it will intermittantly start doing it again. Then it will stop for another few months.
This is the only problem I have ever had with this car and I really can't afford to get rid of it. I think all these men think I'm just imaining it
3 weeks ago my wife and I purchased a Honda Civic 2004 EX. We made our purchased based upon price and Honda’s history of producing reliable cars.
We are very happy with the car.
Anyway, the other day I notice a very slight “ tinny metallic, vibrating sound” coming from the engine area when accelerating to about 1900-2100 rpm.
Above that, the noise disappears. Also, the noise isn't there when it is idling.
Up until this point there had been no sound and the engine has been nice and smooth even when between 1900 - 2100 rpm.
The car currently has about 400 hwy miles on it. It runs fine and accelerates fine, but I am now concerned about the noise.
Of course, maybe I am being a little paranoid, new car and all. And I am sure that my first scratch and/or dent will be a traumatic experience for me.
However, now my "warm and fuzzy" feeling is fading.
I have an appointment to have it looked at in the next few days.
But, in the meantime could anyone make any suggestions as to what might be causing this noise ?
My 2003 Civic has a rattle coming from the passenger side door. The dealer has put all kinds of vibration absorbent material inside the door panel and the B-pillar panel. Have even had the passenger side door paneling replaced but with only a moderate reduction in the rattling.
Seems to only make the noise when the driver side window is down. And when I press on the door paneling near the lock tab or on the glass, the rattle stops. Could it be the glass in the passenger side door?
Your problem sounds very difficult to diagnose since its so intermitent. My guess is that something electrical disconnects and reconnects. Of this is extremely difficult to find without it actually occurring.
A question for you and to pass onto mechanic, does the tach drop to zero when this happens or is the engine running? If it drops to zero its likely the power to computer has been cut. I had a similar deal but the wire a ground was obvious and sticking up off the engine on old VW Jetta.
My 2003 Civic LX (manual transmission) had the same "very slight tinny metallic, vibrating sound" coming from the engine area. But only mine occurred at about 3000 RPM. The noise came from a slightly loose exhaust manifold and the dealer took care of it on my first oil change under warranty.
Don't worry too much, if you take good care of your Civic with regular preventive maintenance, it should last a long time. My previous car was a 1989 Civic Si hatchback which had 252,000 miles and I only sold it because the original distributor finally broke.
does the lights on the dash come on as if you were just starting the caror the radio cut out at same time, because I am thinking maybe an elictrical portion of the ignition switch is going bad. Other than that if you have an aftemarket coil it could do that also...
The noise you describe is very likely a loose heat shield on the exhaust pipe or catalytic converter. Another possibility is a loose baffle inside the muffler. Sometimes you can find the source by striking the exhaust system with a rubber mallet with the engine off. Try this with the exhaust system both hot and cold. In any case, the dealer should be well aware of this problem and able to easily correct it. Good luck.
Comments
I agree that a warm engine does provide better performance, however I don't need all that extra "performance of the engine" right out of the driveway when I'll be traveling at about 30 mph for a couple of miles before I get out of the residential area.
I think today engineers are more concerned with the life of the vehicle beyond the warranty. If they made a car to last 36,000 miles, the company would be out of business. I do believe the big three attempted something like that several years back, and they lost a lot of market to the foreign companies (Honda, Nissan etc.)
I bought the new OEM air filter from my local Honda dealership. My question is, should the air filter be oily? You can touch the paper fins (not sure what that part is really called) and they are moist with an oily substance.
My old air filter is also oily, so I guess they're supposed to be like that, but does the oil improve the performance of the filter? Maybe trap more contaminants?
Just out of curiosity, what kind of climate do you drive in? I'm surprised an air filter was already that dirty on you. Anyhow hope this helps and I recommend buying a K&N filter next time around.
I had the same experience with my earlier Honda. What experience do you cite your responses from? I know other owners of what you must consider "high" mileage Honda's which I consider normal and they have had similar experiences.
By the way, the climate in the Northern CA bay area isn't extreme. As cold as we get is 40's and in summer maybe up to 105. The only reason why I change my air filter so often is that I drive in dusty areas. There are tons of diesel trucks hauling dirt and gravel on the freeways that I drive on every day. Not to mention all the diesel fumes and soot from the big rigs themselves, and pollen from the trees and grassy hills near the freeway. Anyone who drives the 24/680 freeways from the Caldecott tunnel through Concord knows what I'm talking about. The freeways are always congested with traffic and you will always pass at least 10 if not more diesel trucks hauling dirt.
PS: If you're really looking for a little extra boost I highly recommend the AEM V2 intake which I currently have in my 03 EX coupe. It is a direct fit and not a universal part
I would ask for an estimate for repair from an independant, I think you will cut your price significantly. It could be noisy valves that need adjustment or work. I would not throw in the towel with the first shops diagnosis.
You have no basis for the longevity of your methods except hearsy and some information mostly based on advertising and extrapolation of read material. You have never kept a Honda vehicle as you mention past 100k miles. Many people who write to this board have experince with 150k+ and personally I have into the 200's. The first problem with your advice to others is implying an non-needed cost is required to operate the vehicle. They last fine without the extra's as I have and many have found.
anyone please help.....thanks
I have a 2004 Honda Civic Coupe EX with manual trans. I just purchased a set of those Xenon lightbulbs, both low and high beam. Yesterday, I popped open the hood and I having some difficulty replacing the front head light bulbs. Can anyone help? Do I have to remove the headlight assembly?
Thanks!
Good luck.
I had a similar noise as you describe on a Camry.... had the timing belt replaced.... noise went away & car ran like new.
I would do that first... since you know you're going to have to do it anyway.
We tested a bunch of Civics, and they all had the gurgling. All but a used 2002 and the hybrid had the "jet engine" sound, but this sound was less noticeable on the automatic transmission cars. The service technician thought the sound might be because of what he called "break-in" fluids. Apparently, new cars have special fluids called break-in fluids that get changed out with regular fluids at the first oil change. Because they're different, the engine can make noises with them that it won't make after they get changed out.
We've been on the lookout for any 2004's out there that have had their first oil change, but we can't find any. If anybody out there has one, we'd be very interested to know if you've noticed a change in the noises your car makes since that first oil change.
1. What is the proper way of breaking it in? I understand there are differing opinions on this topic.
2. What kind of oil should be used, and when should the first oil change take place?
Thanks.
My 1992 Civic EX (183k) has recently developed problems with the blower. It still works more or less on the lowest setting, but anything above that and it will make a very loud, unpleasant, constant noise. Also, even if it's on "1" and I drive over the slightest bump or pothole, it will start making the noise too (until I turn it off and back on). What do you think it is and how expensive would it be to fix?
The other noise I'm getting is when I start from a complete standstill. As I begin to move slowly, I hear a sort of whining noise that seems to be coming from the front, right side (wheel?). This only happens at very low speeds (less than 3-4 mph) - as soon as I begin to move a little faster, the noise ceases. Any ideas?
With your other noise I'm not exactly sure what you mean by a whining sound, but I would take a look at the condition of your brake pads. It may be your wear indicators hitting the rotors which means time for a new set of brake pads! Sometimes the wear indicators won't make any noise while driving at higher speeds and won't go off at all while braking. At least thats my past experience...Anyhow good luck.
2) Honda uses special break in oil. Go the full interval ie 5000 miles. People will tell you about shavings but these don't really exists (old timers tale). If you are uncomfortable with long interval do at least 3000 miles with special break in oil. As far as oil use 5W-20 as prescribed by owners manual. Lastly google "Bob is the oil Guy".
My 2001 Civic coup ex has 40K miles.
The car was fine in the am on my 30 mile ride to the office.
When I came out of the office the transmission would not engage although I was able to shift to the different gears, but there was no response from the car. The engine would rev. It was as if the transmission was not getting the signal to go into gear.
I was towed to the dealer. The car sat overnight. In the am the service manager wrote up the work order and confirmed what I had told him. The could would not engage.
Later in the day they called me to say that the mechanic started the car up, shifted gears and engaged them normally, drove 15 minutes and was unable to find the problem. They said they did all the necessary "tests".
Any ideas what could cause this to occur, then "magically" return to normal.?
Thanks
Dennis
I wouldn't describe the noise my Civic makes as like a 'jet engine' but more like a high pitched whine. Also the gurgling noise that you described, I would describe that other noise as some sort of 'trickling' noise that liquids make when they travel through pipes or metal surfaces. Then there's the low-pitched buzz...I'm basically repeating myself again of what I've said a few pages ago.
Nick
I can be driving down the road, doesn't matter what gear, RPM, or Speed; With my foot on the accelerator, it's like the gas is completely cut off. I can be going say 70, the car will "jerk", then starts slowing down like it isn't getting any gas. All of a sudden (maybe 2-3 seconds), it's like the gas is cut back on and it resumes previous accelleration. It's so bad at times, I have actually caught 3rd gear on the freeway. It's actually pretty dangerous, almost got slammed by an SUV on the freeway last night because of the stalling.
The bizzaro thing is that it's an intermittant problem that has been occurring for the past 5yrs or so and no mechanic (dealership & private) has been able to duplicate the problem. It will go about 6mnths running fine, then for about a week or two it will intermittantly start doing it again. Then it will stop for another few months.
This is the only problem I have ever had with this car and I really can't afford to get rid of it. I think all these men think I'm just imaining it
I can be driving down the road, doesn't matter what gear, RPM, or Speed; With my foot on the accelerator, it's like the gas is completely cut off. I can be going say 70, the car will "jerk", then starts slowing down like it isn't getting any gas. All of a sudden (maybe 2-3 seconds), it's like the gas is cut back on and it resumes previous accelleration. It's so bad at times, I have actually caught 3rd gear on the freeway. It's actually pretty dangerous, almost got slammed by an SUV on the freeway last night because of the stalling.
The bizzaro thing is that it's an intermittant problem that has been occurring for the past 5yrs or so and no mechanic (dealership & private) has been able to duplicate the problem. It will go about 6mnths running fine, then for about a week or two it will intermittantly start doing it again. Then it will stop for another few months.
This is the only problem I have ever had with this car and I really can't afford to get rid of it. I think all these men think I'm just imaining it
3 weeks ago my wife and I purchased a Honda Civic 2004 EX. We made our purchased based upon price and Honda’s history of producing reliable cars.
We are very happy with the car.
Anyway, the other day I notice a very slight “ tinny metallic, vibrating sound” coming from the engine area when accelerating to about 1900-2100 rpm.
Above that, the noise disappears. Also, the noise isn't there when it is idling.
Up until this point there had been no sound and the engine has been nice and smooth even when between 1900 - 2100 rpm.
The car currently has about 400 hwy miles on it. It runs fine and accelerates fine, but I am now concerned about the noise.
Of course, maybe I am being a little paranoid, new car and all. And I am sure that my first scratch and/or dent will be a traumatic experience for me.
However, now my "warm and fuzzy" feeling is fading.
I have an appointment to have it looked at in the next few days.
But, in the meantime could anyone make any suggestions as to what might be causing this noise ?
Thanks
D. P.
Seems to only make the noise when the driver side window is down. And when I press on the door paneling near the lock tab or on the glass, the rattle stops. Could it be the glass in the passenger side door?
Anyone have any ideas as to what is causing this?
A question for you and to pass onto mechanic, does the tach drop to zero when this happens or is the engine running? If it drops to zero its likely the power to computer has been cut. I had a similar deal but the wire a ground was obvious and sticking up off the engine on old VW Jetta.
My 2003 Civic LX (manual transmission) had the same "very slight tinny metallic, vibrating sound" coming from the engine area. But only mine occurred at about 3000 RPM. The noise came from a slightly loose exhaust manifold and the dealer took care of it on my first oil change under warranty.
Don't worry too much, if you take good care of your Civic with regular preventive maintenance, it should last a long time. My previous car was a 1989 Civic Si hatchback which had 252,000 miles and I only sold it because the original distributor finally broke.
Hope this helps,
Derek