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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions

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  • jjsnowyjjsnowy Member Posts: 9
    Still having problems with the gas gauge not registering properly. Had this problem since Day 1, when I picked up my new Civic '01.
    It seems that Honda hasn't figured out a way to fix the problem yet. It's very annoying not knowing how much gas you have.
    Honda Corp. wrote me a letter stating that they are working on a solution. They still haven't figured out s remedy yet.
    Also had to have a strut replaced and the recall. My family owns 3 Hondas right now, But I can say the Civic '01 is real a piece of junk and I wouldn't recommend it.
  • myklemykle Member Posts: 1
    I have a '99 Civic. A few months after buying it (new) I noticed a creaking sound coming from the driver's side dash. It got progressively worse as time went on. The problem was that at first it would creak just when I hit bumps, but then it got progressively worse and creaked all the time. Just when I would be ready to take it in to the shop, it would stop. I tried all kinds of things to figure out where it was coming from, but nothing ever worked. I finally took it to the shop, and the mechanic told me that the bolts were loose for the dashboard and beam to pillar post. When I got the car back, it was definitely much better, but it still does it every now and then. My warranty only has about 1800 miles left on it, so I need to figure out what the problem is to get it fixed once and for all.
    Any ideas?
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    complain about a problem before the warranty is over and put it on record that it was happening, it'll still be covered after the warranty expires. I'd get it notated that this problem existed before the warranty expires.
  • anselmo1anselmo1 Member Posts: 163
    Honda has had a problem with the fuel sending units on their vehicles since 1994. Honda definitely has a supplier problem as well as an engineering problem.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    Hey everyone. I have a 2001 Civic Coupe EX, automatic transmission. I have a question. When I am in stop and go traffic, I find that I have to put the car in D3. If I leave it in regular D4, the car performs like a manual transmission car in the wrong gear. You know when you drive a manual and you slow down too much without downshifting or depressing the clutch - the car seems to shudder and not like it. My automatic does that. When I slow down, either to a stop or to a steady slow speed, my car refuses to come down from D4. Is this normal for new Civics? When I come to a complete stop after driving on the highway, like coming off an off ramp to a stoplight, the car stops THEN the transmission downshifts. It makes the whole car want to push forward, and it makes a bad grinding/crashing kind of noise.

    Could something be loose? Anyone else have this problem?

    I am taking the car in on Friday for the gas tank recall - having this checked out as well. Also, any fix yet on the bouncy-ness of the rear end of the car? My car had no CD player or fuel gauge issues, but now the recall and transmission are bugging me. Hope I made a good choice....
  • transitdoctransitdoc Member Posts: 7
    Please see #714 and 725. I have been experiencing the same problem. Have you been noticing the your car seems to hesitate, and the revs drop after you stop at a traffic light? When, and where did you purchase it? Do you have any idea when and where it was manufactured? My car has similar problems and I wonder if it was from the same release.
  • nsbaralnsbaral Member Posts: 1
    I am looking to buy a Honda Civic 2DR Hatchback 1991 Model. It is a stickshift and looks beautiful. This is the first car of my life and I don't know about the things to look out for in this car. Anyone with previous experience ? Your opinions would be appreciated greatly.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    I bought mine in Arlington VA, in December. Car was made in November in the U.S. I don't think it has to do with the PCM recall thing - as I did not get a notice for that in the mail. I am definitely road testing the car tomorrow morning with the Honda dealer. I feel like all the noise and roughness can't be good for the car, but if they say it is within spec, then at least it is documented and if it is causing further damage, they will be liable. Will post the outcome here..
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    See what the dealer says when they look at it but it sounds as if you could either have a bad PCM which for certain Civics there is a service bulletin for it, or could it be possible that you are driving and stopping with 2 feet? Sometimes I do it driving into the shop and it really makes the trans shift weird and make funny noises. Anyhow see what they say and let us know..Good luck
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    The transmission downshift condition you describe, Justin, is not normal. By all means, it must be corrected. Be sure to demonstrate the D4 downshifting problem to the dealer service rep. Also, make sure he knows that the downshift sequence is OK when D3 is selected - this distinction is important to the service technician. My first guess is that a converter lock-up control solenoid, or circuits associated with it, is defective. If so, correction of the problem will be simple. However, please don't try to tell the shop that this is the problem. Instead, be sure you have thoroughly described the symptoms and let them do the diagnosis. Let us know how it goes, please.
  • teles4teles4 Member Posts: 2
    Hi all,
    I have a 2000 Honda Civic LX. Each time I brake from low speed ( 5 to 10 mph) there's a noise similar to a metal-to-metal contact. The noise is either close to the left front tire or is somewhere in the back. I went to the dealer and he told me this phenomenon is well known by Honda and is called "Applied Brakes Click". The way, he described, is that there's is a latch close to the brake pad. And each time the car drives for the first time in one direction (either forward or backward) the latch will clip and that's the origin of the noise. My case is, however, slightly different. The noise is persistent even when I keep on driving in the same direction. I will listen the little "clack" noise at any stop sign or when I stop at any traffic light. The noise was noticed for the first time after the 15,000 miles service. Has anyone ever experienced a similar problem? Pease let me know how you proceed. I will be going to the dealer for the 22,500 miles service very soon. What should I do if they cannot perform a good diagnostic?

    Thanks,

    Teles
  • hvtec2000hvtec2000 Member Posts: 12
    I noticed this noise when my car hit 2,000k/m. But the dealer can't find out what the problem is until now. The changed my strut and engein mount but it wasn't those two things making the noise. My friend jack it up and listened to it when I was putting to D4 and I and we heard the noise coming from the transmission ( for sure). Took it back to dealer and they said that it is the way they bill the transmission. What else can I say when the put it that way. If you know how to deal with them then let me know...i'm really sick of this damn car. Really want to change my car......I bought it last Sept 2000 when it just came out for 2 days..... used to love it so much and now it is a paint in the butt..... my made from US so I think it is also the reason that the car is not doing so well....... Thanks for all the information and wish all these complain will be fixed. Hvtec2000
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    The dealer explanation is valid but not applicable to your situation for, as you say, the noise occurs at each successive stop in a forward direction. Each disc brake caliper has two small spring-steel devices which are called "Pad Retainers". These retainers don't really affect the braking characteristics but they keep the pads from rattling. If one were broken or missing, it could cause the noise you describe. The technician needs only to remove the wheel to be able to inspect the Pad Retainers. If you have your tires rotated while your car is at the shop, this inspection will require only a few extra seconds to perform. The problem could be something else, but I'd check this first. Good luck.
  • hondasmondahondasmonda Member Posts: 28
    If it is really bothering you, get them to test an identical model from the lot and see if they can replicate the noise. You will likely have your answer. A faulty transmission will usually give an indication of problem within the first 20,000 miles (before warranty expires). Also, you may want to consider purchasing an extended warranty.
  • transitdoctransitdoc Member Posts: 7
    Well, I convinced the dealer to replace the ECU (on the 2001 the PCM and TCM are combined), and the problem was gone. Unfortunately, this computer has now gone TU, and the problems are worse than before. The dealer is replacing the replacement today, we shall see.
  • j_eddyj_eddy Member Posts: 8
    Hello,
    My 92 Civic lx wont start. I had a similar problem before with the main relay. No fuel or ignition, just starter rotation. The main relay checks good. The fuel pump does not operate during start, but does work when jumpered. I have a constant sheck engine light when test connector is jumpered. Manual says electrical portion of fueling system, or
    ECM :(!
    The car has 198k, and had a distributor replaced before I bought it.
    I tried following trouble shooting tree in repair manual, but don't feel gung ho about everything. The engine light never did extinguish through any of the disconnect/ reconnect steps. I get the idea an ecm is pricy since I cant find anyone who sells them besides dealership and Junkyard. If ecm is bad, should I buy new or take chance on used one from the boneyard? I have heard Honda has problems w/ ecm's in these cars.
    At a loss for a troubleshooting step to go for next. I probably missed something obvious. (All fuses were good)
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Well we see alot of intermitant main fuel relays so maybe it is possible to still be that as that is the most common. If not then I would suspect that the igniter may have went bad. The ECM relies on input from the igniter before sending power to the pump. Do you have spark? Also remember when checking for power at the pump it will only be there for a few secounds after you first turn key to on and then it will only have power while cranking after that.I don't see alot of ECM's in those years go bad often but it is possible. Good luck
  • katechristiekatechristie Member Posts: 1
    I bought a new Honda civic 3 weeks ago, have 800 miles on it so far. This morning on my way to work, I had stopped at a stop sign and was pulling forward through the intersection when I lost power. The battery light came on, power steering went out, everything. At the time, I was not running the air conditioning, the only thing on was the radio. I pulled over, turned the car off, and started it up again. Everything was fine, no warning lights stayed on, I drove the rest of the way to work, and I called my dealership. The service department told me to start the car and let it idle for 10 minutes to reset the computer. Does this sound like a bigger problem, or should I just believe the dealer?
  • madirishman1madirishman1 Member Posts: 15
    Just believe the dealer. There are always going to be glitches in new vehicles.
  • transitdoctransitdoc Member Posts: 7
    If the problem occurs again, see the dealer. Please note my problem and that of at least two other people above. There is a known problem with the ECU on certain early 2001 Civics that causes hesitation and stalling. If it persists, see the dealer and have them replace the main computer (ECU). There have been 12 TSBs issued on this problem. After the dealer replaced my ECU (twice, the first one went bad 2 days after installation) the problem seems to have resolved.
  • karalynnkaralynn Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a civic EX 5 speed on 7/22 and had it 4 days before I started having problems with it. I would hear a click - click noise coming from the dash. The warning lights on the dash come on with the noise and the car loses power while driving almost stalling and stalls when I stop. It happened repeatedly two days in a row while driving to work in the morning and I have taken it back to the dealership. They said they drove it and it hasn't acted up so they can't find the problem. Does this sound like the ECU as the above problems? Any ideas?
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    But this board made us go buy a Mazda Protege. That and the fact that they gave us the car for invoice with 0.0% financing.
  • mdrivermdriver Member Posts: 385
    You may have bought the Protege for "invoice" but you will have little to show at trade-in time. If you drive the car untill it drops, then you come out ahead. Even though the Protege is at least as good a car as the Civic, the market has dictated a low resale value on Protege, a high resale on Civic. The reverse is true also. Buying a VW with no rebate and not much of a discount, results in high resale values, as VWs currently enjoy.
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    Bought by 2k ES 5 sp one year ago. Today, a similar model with same miles sales for 12.5k, I paid 14k. Not too bad depreciation there. All depends on what the initial purchase price was. If I had paid sticker depreciation would have been much worse. I think it was around 15.5k. And from looking at ads, the ES 5 sp is a very rare combo to acquire.
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    We got the car for 15 and the loan is a 48 month 0% one. Every dollar we put into it comes off the principle. Who cares about resale when you aren't paying the bank a dime in interest. In two years we'll only owe $7500. Even the Civic can't beat those numbers.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    When a dealer sells a car for invoice with zero percent financing, there is a REASON!

    The car is not selling well.

    Cars that don't sell well new do not sell well when they are used. The Protege is a good example of this.

    Not bad cars but nowhere near the resale of others.
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    So now you're an authority on Proteges too? Why not stick with what you know best, debunking myths, rumors and innuendo about the Honda. Your credibility will stand up much better.
    For people that can get past the Honda hype, the Protege is a real contender to the Civic, resale value included. I've seen some Honda incentives such as cheap financing and doubling B2B warranties. Guess they aren't selling well either. And there has been some persistent problems (read "recalls") with the new Civic. How's that compare with the Pro?
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    I just stated that with 0% financing and the invoice purchase I got a lower payment and one less year than I would've gotten vs. the Civic. The Pro came with 16" wheels and 4wdisc brakes that you can't even get on a Civic. All for at least $2000 less. Even with bad resale, if I keep this car for three years there's no way a Civic could beat a no interest loan.
    I hope the Protege5 doesn't sell well. I used to have a Civic wagon and the new Protege5 is everything I wanted it to be. If they do 0% on it at the end of the year I'm selling my beater Civic and getting one. Then, I hate to say it, I'll have no more Hondas.
  • j_eddyj_eddy Member Posts: 8
    I had a friend over tonight to help with troubleshooting the car from scratch. We didnt have spark, fuses were good. Changed distributor, but still no spark. We have 12.5VDc up to pin just before the rotor. When starting, the voltage drops to 8.5VDc.I guess we will try a rotor and plugs tomorrow and take the distributor back. I would like to know the system theory and design in my car's ignition system in relation to the ECM. I am wondering if there may be a bad ground, or shorted wire or switch some where. My friend doesn't think it is the ecm. Does anyone have any insight on things, or ideas on things I may have overlooked?
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    If you have tried a new main fuel relay then I would suspect an igniter and or coil. When you put in the distributor was it complete or did you use your igniter and coil?
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    I have a '90 Integra and I am replacing the right front half shaft tomorrow. The Part came in today, and I was looking at it and I noticed that the inner joint turns very freely and will flop over on its own as the shaft is rotated. The outer joint is much stiffer and needs about 5 pounds of force to move it.

    Is this normal or did I get a bad half shaft? Should I cancel the appointment to put it in and get a new one?

    I know this isn't a civic, but they are cousins. ;^)
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    When new they are stiffer on the outer joint than on the inner. The design of the inner joint is differant than the outer which is why it is like that.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Well...I am aware of the resale situation on Proteges since we buy and sell a few here.

    Personally, I think that they are a great value used. They are very good cars and they can be picked up for a lot less than a used Civic or Corolla.

    My post wasn't intended to slam Proteges. ONECE AGAIN...I think they are great cars.

    Just pointing out the fact that for whatever reason the market for Proteges has never been a strong one.
  • needadvice1needadvice1 Member Posts: 2
    i was thinking of buying a 2001 civic lx, but after reading about the problems on here, i am not quite sure. I am definitely looking to buy a car within the next month and am wondering if i should still get the civic...any suggestions?
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    to Honda standards. But when the average interest rate is 6% to 9% a NO interest deal along with at invoice pricing goes a long way to blunt the effects.
    Every dollar spent goes toward the car and not to the bank. Actually a new Pro is probably a better value than a used on right now when the interest costs are figured in.
  • anezanez Member Posts: 2
    I'm trying to buy a new car for the first time in my life. After reading the Consumer Reports books, I was all set to buy a Honda Civic LX 01. Then I started reading here about all the problems with recalls, etc. Does anyone know if those 2001 Civics manufactured after the recall went into effect are likely to be any better? I'm concerned about price, reliability, and safety, and don't know if I should just give up on all 2001 Civics now...
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I guess it's easy for a potential buyer of anything to get scared away.

    Too bad. The new Civics are a great car and a great value. Recalls and updates happen to all makes and models and usually don't really amount to a hill of beans.

    Pick a car...any car and there will be reports of gloom and doom. No car is perfect.
  • civiclxownerciviclxowner Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2001 Civic LX, manual transmission. I find the drive noisy (engine and vibrations from the road). Also, on certain parts of a road, the road noise level increases. The engine is 1.7L, 4 cylinder with 115 hp. The dealer told me that 4 cyl engines usually generate some noise. Honda customer service also said that some noise should be expected on a Civic. I drove a rented Chevy Lumina till last week and that was any day quieter than the Civic.

    I’d appreciate if anyone could shed some light on this - if I have to live with it or there’s something to be fixed or anything I may be doing wrong.
  • anselmo1anselmo1 Member Posts: 163
    What you are describing is typical of Civics in general. They are not quiet a car as you compared it to the Chevy Lumina you drove.

    Honda doesn't use a hood insulator on the inside of the hood like other cars in its class. You can buy an aftermarket insulator for the inside of your hood which should quiet down the engine somewhat. There are other sound deadening materials you can purchase that quiet the car down but add weight to the vehicle.

    Some people swear that undercoating the car will make it more quiet. Otherwise, the sounds you are hearing are typical.
  • mpynempyne Member Posts: 120
    i too was considering between a civic and a corolla, and read about allot of the problems with the 2001 civic. this caused me to buy a corolla instead. i bought mine for $15242 from carsdirect (le black with auto,abs,auto win/looks/mirrors,cd,5 piece floor mat,all weather guard package(heavy duty starter),cruise control) this was only $200 over invoice. the car thats closest to this is the honda ex which is priced allot higher (but you get a sun roof). i personally think the new civic is ugly compared to the corolla (im one of the few i guess)and am really impressed at the quality of the car. the interior is very nice, it shares some of the lexus design of there older models, also with the vvt-1 timing. so if i were you id get the corolla.
    (also i was thinking about the protege, but i could get the corolla at a lower price, everything else about it i loved)
    hope this helped
  • barnonebarnone Member Posts: 118
    one major advantage of the Civic vs Corolla is
    the Passenger Space
  • civiclxownerciviclxowner Member Posts: 2
    Can you please give me more info on this ? Where to buy it, how much it'd cost, are there any drawbacks in installing ?

    Thanks.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    Thanks for the reply.

    DudleyR
  • geck066geck066 Member Posts: 5
    I just read a whole mess load of complaints on this site.
    I can't believe potential Honda buyers are scared of some of these problems...go check out Fords message boards if you want to see problems and scare yourself.
    I own a 2001 Honda Civic EX coupe...big deal about the hose clamp recall....BOO HOO.
    I have had no problems yet with my Civic. I have over 10,000 miles which is nothing, yes, I know, but I have always owned a Honda and I have been satisfied. Look at consumer reports and compare those red circles to other autos with loads of black circles. Honda come out tops.
    My point is, don't let some complaints by Honda owners scare you. It is very normal for cars to have some sort of bug now and then.....hey, at least the bugs in a car are far and few then a PC...could you imagine if cars were like PC's? Yikes!!
    sorry, needed to vent... just my opinion on Honda.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    Civics are just getting worse, but they are still a little better than your average Focus and Neon, for sure. The Corolla is a fine car - but with the room you get in the back seat you might as well buy the MR2 Spyder instead - about the same amout of passenger space....

    I have a feeling that the Elantra GT is going to start being pretty popular. The only economy car with a little style and still has a good price. The Protege 5 is cool - but underpowered and pricey compared the Elantra GT.
  • snowmansnowman Member Posts: 540
    What makes Civic better than new generation Neons?
    Our Neon (AT, 4 W disc brakes/ ABS, traction control) has 7K on it no single ding, ping or problem, runs like Swiss clock and paid $11.5K. Can you get a comparible Civic for that price?
    Well, I know you will start with resale value. But you are forgetting that you pay $1.5K-$5K extra up front. Depreciation rate difference less than 10%.
    You rate protege under powered, what about 115hp Civics?
  • carguy000carguy000 Member Posts: 55
    Isn't the Neon still using a 3 speed automatic?
    I can't remember.

    I'm glad that you've had good service out of your Neon. Our family has just had bad luck with many Chrysler products (Minivans and Jeep Grand Cherokees). We just don't buy their products anymore. The 4 speed transmissions in the Chrysler minivans are notorious for not lasting long. We had problems with three of the four vans that we owned over the past ten years. I can think of several other people that have had similar problems with the transmissions, even in the Jeeps.

    I haven't had any problems out of my 2001 Civic EX 2 Door, and I'm about to roll 5,000 miles. I'm hoping to get many years of trouble-free service out of it. Hondas are usually known for that.
  • fxashunfxashun Member Posts: 747
    The Pro5 has the same engine and bases at 16K or so with very few options. I'm getting one when they can be had for invoice. After loving my 1987 Civic wagon with it's sub 100 hp engine the Pro5 is gonna be a hoot. Consumer Reports like the Pro too.
  • j_eddyj_eddy Member Posts: 8
    Hi Auburn,
    I got a whole new distributor. The only thing I had to change over was the rotor and shroud. I am guessing that the ignitor and coil are part of the distributor assembly. Anyway, I went ahead and got a new rotor,cap, and plugs. The guy at the parts counter said to bring in the Ignition control module and have that tested. The new stuff didnt work, but was needed soon anyway. Another friend said that the circuit for the plugs route through the Injector wiring for ground. I believe that the ecm controls the injectors and fuel pump through the main relay. The main relay did check good, but I guess I could check it again.(I popped a fuse or 2 while troubleshooting--jumped out to test pump)
    thanks for the input, I am getting tired of dead ends. My wife needs the car soon and I am close to sending it to Honda. I don't have much time to work on it. I really want to find the fix myself. There isn't much satisfaction when somebody else does the work. I'm rambling, Thanks for the help.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    To me, the one and only reason that the Neon is below the Civic is that the Neon is not as refined as the Civic. I drive an automatic 2001 Civic EX. What gives with the AWFUL automatic transmission in the Neon? Who besides DC still used a three speed auto? Even Hyundai and Kia use 4 speed automatics. I can't vouch for Neon reliability - never had one. It can't have any tranmission problems, thats for sure. The technology has been tested for what, four decades now? ;)

    I am not saying the Civic is the best econo car either. I am finding that out as the days go on. Things that I don't like about the Civic are the ride comfort and the interior. To get my seat back far enough (5'11 here) I have to reach too far to use the radio. I have rented two new Neons. Both were fine, but the interiors did not seem as well assembled.

    I really think that if the new Elantra did not have the Hyundai name, that the Civic, Neon, Focus, Sentra etc would be pointless. Just my opinion.
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