Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
Options
Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
You beat me to it. I was THINKING of saying that, but was afraid of starting a war here. That's who I heard it from too. I never had that problem anyway because I learned years ago never to use wax/polish on textured trim.
fastdriver
1. Washed with Dawn, tropical scent since we didn't have standard blue.
2. Used Strip Kleen Surface Prep to remove all old wax. I got this from an automotive paint supply store. Great for removing globbed on road tar too. It came off in about a minute. It took off tree sap quickly as well (thin coat).
3. Used Erazer Clay Bar and Meguiar's Quick Detailer as a lubricant. Much quicker than my first time was a year ago. Like all car detailing, it becomes easier with regular care.
4. The hood had a scuff, so I used Meguiar's #9 Scratch Remover and Surface Prep on it alone. Great job, removed the scuff, reduced some prior swirl marks, and left the surfact ready for wax.
5. I then used 3M's Hand Glaze everywhere else. It was slightly more abrasive that Meguiar's #7, and actually buffed down the scratches. Great for cars that have some surface scuffing. I applied it with a random buffer.
6. I then used 3M's Perfect-It show car wax. I used the can that I purchased directly from 3M. It had a wonderful coconut smell. This was good because on examination the paste wax was embedded with small particles that resembled short coconut pieces. There is no way these particles could have been suspended in a liquid.
The technical advisor said to use it by hand, but when I stirred it it was fairly soft. so I got out a new bonnet and applied it by machine. Don't put too much on the pad, or it will scatter little chunks all over. When applied thinly it went on quickly. It really doesn't have any abrasives. My Red car would have left something on the terry bonnet if it had.
When dried it was more clear than a carnauba wax. It wasn't as easy to remove as a liquid, but I would expect that. It was about the same as Meguiar's #26 Hard Yellow Wax.
It was beautiful when I got done. The shine is deep and rich. It looks the best it ever has. But the last time I gave it a similar treatment was just when I was starting to extensively detail, and I didn't have that much experience. I also had a lot of oxidation to remove. The blaze red finish positively glows. All for about $15.00 bucks.
If I'd used different products you might say I've been Zainoed. My argument here is that an excellent surface prep really adds depth and clarity to the shine regardless of the product.
Initial Evaluation -- Impressive.
The shine is supposed to last over 6 months. I'll let you know. That's why I bought it for this vehicle.
Div 2: The Dawn was just a wash as a prep and took no time. Clay bars depend on use. My cars are outside and need a yearly job. My Dad's in a garage, and doesn't appear to need a clay bar after a year. But to me, a clay bar seems to add some extra clarity and depth.
I have no doubt that your Liquid Perfect-It wax produced excellent results. I can't wait to try mine next summer. I used the Paste because it has ingredients that are more durable. 6 months instead of the liquid's 3 according to 3M tech support. This is of course an average. Your liquid should last longer if it is away from the elements. I wax my cars every 3 mos on the average. For my Dad's garaged one, every 6.
Anywho, the "helpful hints" section says this:
"If you have purchased FINAL COAT Paint Sealant for your vehicle, then it is not necessary to wax your car. Wax will not harm your Paint Sealant, however, the wax itself tends to yellow and dull your paint finish."
Then it goes on to say:
"If you get the urge to wax, we recommend that you use #FC 218 FINAL COAT Co-Polymer Car Polish as per instructions. It is specially formulated to Fortify, Restore and work in conjunction with your FINAL COAT Paint Sealant to provide maximum protection against the elements."
So wax makes your finish yellow, but they still provide a recommendation for THEIR brand?!??!
Just thought you guys might find this as humorous as I did.
Protege_fan
As far as the term "waxing" goes--that is just the term people use for putting some kind of protectant on their vehicle....to make a big deal out of the semantics smacks of marketing, also.
Anyway about the 3m STUFF???
thanks
However the 3M Canada site has MSDS for 3M products--here is the MSDS for Imperial Hand Glaze:
http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?oooooo3oKupVjt3oMdppJVJq1&C_hUw5xtpokva--
The MSDS states that Imperial Hand Glaze contains 1% to 5% "ceramic materials and wares" which I would take to be abrasive--then again I'm not sure.
Thanks
http://products.mmm.com/ca/en/MSDS/searchResults.jhtml
Hopefully that will work or try:
http://products.mmm.com/ca/en/MSDS/msdsSearch.jhtml
and just type in "Imperial Hand Glaze"
I have used One Grand products--Blitz Wax and Omega Glaze and they are very good. Blitz Wax is a "carnauba wax" and lasts longer than most such products and looks great--a very popular product. Omega Glaze is very similar to 3M IHG in my opinion.
Collinite:
Have never used any of their products, which is a little weird since they are located rather close to me in Upstate NY (Collinite is made in Utica, I believe). The body shop supply stores around here sell the Insulator Wax, which is essentially a polymer sealant, a good product and very long lasting, from what I understand. They also make a carnauba-type "wipe-on, wipe-off" wax which I have heard people speak highly of--can't remember what it is called... "Concours something-or-other" I think .
Does the product have a mfr name or website on the label?
If they were the same why would Perfect-It Show Car Wax instructions advise glazing first and then waxing? It is actually the mild abrasives that give it the deep wet look finish.
Imperial hand glaze does contain silica particles, but they are very small. Nothing like a swirl remover or rubbing compound. Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze is milder. It uses clay as the abrasive. This breaks down with use.
I found 3M glaze to be a little stronger than Meguiar's, but this only helped buff down scratches and swirl marks on an older car. This is a highly recommended glaze, probably the one must often used by professionals.
For waxes after you have glazed, use 3M Perfect-It Show Car Wax, Meguiar's #26 hard Yellow, or Collinite 476. Of these Collinite 476 claims to last the longest (1 year), then 3M (6 months). Meguiar's doesn't put a time on their products because they say conditions vary widely (true).
I really like 3M for winter use, and Meguiar's #26 for summer.
Also, if the surface is glazed, it uses much less wax. I have a can of Meguiar's #26 paste that has been used over 25 times. Dosn't have much in the can, but I can still get another 2 or three uses before it's gone.
The #915 Marque D' Elegance is a high Carnauba.
My guess is those who want a good shine and durability should use the Collinite 476.
http://www.bmwz3.net/seriousz3/astro.html
PS, the Z3 mentioned here is a BMW car model, not the verbotten product.
Any cleaner wax is too soft and not durable in my experience.
I did a cleaner wax then put on Meguiar's Hard Yellow #26 for years. Lasted about 3 months. My cars are outside.
This year I abandoned the cleaner/wax and used a glaze then the Wax. It's lasted 6 months and still looking really good. The Meguiar's #26 still beads like new on 2 of my cars.
If you want to put a wax on top of a cleaner Wax use Meguiar's only. 3M contains polymers and needs to bond directly to the paint surface. They recommend using a glaze first. I did Imperial Hand Glaze. Then I put on the 3M. It looks like it will be very durable. My Dark Red Mazda has the deepest shine it has ever had.
Thanks
Anyway, back on subject. I drove the car with 3M Perfect-It Show Car Paste, and it got caught in a rainstorm. Now desert rains are really dirty. They usually leave a white residue on any surface. But this time the drops just flew off of the car. When I got up the next morning, expecting to have to do a Quick Detail, all I had to do was run the California Duster over the surface.
PS. I've washed it three times in the carwash and it still acts new. This finish appears to be both beautiful and sturdy.
Since it's new, the first thing I would do is use a clay bar. Even shipping here from the factory puts pollutants on the paint surface. One of the most common is small iron particles from train rails. If they are not removed they will surely damage the finish. I have used Mother's, Erazer and Meguiar's. Quite frankly they are all good. I use a number of quick detailer type products as a lubricant.
If you want durability avoid a cleaner/wax.
I have experience with Meguiars and 3M product lines. Both are generally very good. Meguiar's uses more natural carnauba. I would recommend using #7 show car glaze then #26 hard yellow, both liquid and paste. Use a buffer (Meguiar's soft foam recommended over the stock applicator pad with terry cloth) to apply the liquid, then put a coat of the paste over the tailgate, roof and hood. In late fall I always add another layer a week or 2 later of the paste. This works well with an occassional automatic car wash. But I can wash on warm days here even in January of February.
I do the same with the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze, and Perfect-It Show Car Paste. The liquid doesn't have the ASE additives that make it durable. This one seems better if you waste your money and use automatic car washes more often. (Cringe).
Neither one of these lines will cause streaking, clouding, or require a long time to dry.
Using a Garage in any climate is much more protective of any car finish than being outside.
I know understand what they mean by OCD (Obligatory California Duster)
However they didn't check out the professional lines of products like 3M Perfect-It Show Car Wax, and Meguiar's #26 Hard Yellow Wax with Carnauba.
I'm with ADC100. Much more durable if you use a glaze and then a wax separately.
Here's my current system :
* hand wash every weekend unless the car looks particularly good, or particularly awful.
* wax with the cheap zymol cleaner wax every month
* dawn wash, glaze, wax, every 4-6 months
* clay the car once a year, previous to glazing.
I know i could do much more work and improve how the car looks, but i have limited time to devote to keeping the car looking good. Ten better looking is not worth double the time to me, nor several times the money.
I tried the forbidden stuff, and i was unimpressed.
I am wary of nu-finish because on non clearcoated areas it seemed to remove considerable paint.
I avoid glazing too much because it is a mild abrasive, and i worry about the clearcoat getting worn down over the years.
Does this seem reasonable to the pros?
dave
I totally agree about glazing only 2 times a year to preserver the finish.
1) What about automatic car washes in between waxing? Do you do just the car wash or let them put on the extra clear coat protection and waxes? Since I cannot hand wash in my neighborhood are automatic car washes better or worse than the local bay and power wand?
2) A friend has acquired a fairly oxidized maroon car. Which is considered best in this situation, clay or a liquid cleaner, such as the meguiers?
2. Oxidation will take some work. If you're doing this by hand then start with clay and go to a fine cleaner like Meguiars Fine Cut #2. The car may need two applications to cut thru the oxidation. Follow up with a swirl mark remover or glase, then wax. I'm thinking 3-5 steps minimum. But the best method is high speed polishing by a pro. The heat from the buffer works wonders with old paint. But leave the polishing to a pro. Your arm will thank you.
Car wash preference for me and reasons are:
1. Hand wash. This is be far the least expensive option and will get the best results. For 5-7 bucks I can buy a years worth of Auto soap. The water use is minimal if you use a nozzle that can be shutoff when using it. With experience, it takes about the same amount of time. I use this method 90% of the time.
2. Do it yourself car wash. This method allows for good control to clean what's needed. If the car is extremely dirty, preferred. I also use this when temperatures are a bit colder. I prefer the ones that have a hand brush. I can get this done for about $3.00 if I hurry.
3. Automatic Car wash. Often use recycled water. Fine in summer, but salts may not be filtered out in the winter. When it is sub-freezing this one has to be used be cause it can be washed, machine dried, then hand dried before being sent outside. Undercarriage washes also help remove corrosive salts. But this can be very expensive.
Wax on any automatic is no substitute for a good machine or hand applied one. It may help a little between applications