Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

bretfraz · November 2001

http://www.htmlgoodies.com/

Go to "Tutorials" on the left side for some learnin'.

Have fun!

protegextwo · November 2001

You the Man, Bret!!!

protegextwo · November 2001

Bret, did you attend the SEMA Convention, last week?

-Larry

bretfraz · November 2001

Yes, actually the week of 10/29. Show was 10/30 thru 11/2.

I took a bunch of photos (including some Mazdas for you ;-) and am putting together a website for all to see.

I would have just thrown them up on Photopoint but, nooooo, I wanted my own URL.

Of course my 'puter is in pieces as I'm installing a new CDRW that hasn't arrived yet....

protegextwo · November 2001

Coooool, very nice Bret. I can't wait to see the pics!

-Larry

adc100 · November 2001

Have been using my new buffer for a while now. I have read a lot of posts indicating that you needed to be careful with it. I am really an amateur at this, but using a buffer to finish up on a coat of wax gives it the final touch which is more than impressive. I dare say its imposssible to cause any harm with just wax. My point is that anyone not using a buffer is missing out on that final ultimate step. I highly recommend getting one.
Just ordered the Collinite 845 liquid. That's the stuff origionally made for insulators-anyone ever use it??

joe166 · November 2001

I understand this forum is for anyone to post their opinion and they are entitled to it, but I think to say that it is impossible to cause any harm with a buffer and just wax seems pretty far out and might mislead someone. I have not used a buffer for some time because the products I use do not require their use, but I have used them in the past and I have seen some damage which appeared to be caused not by abrasive action, but by heat which can easily be created with any or no product. Although it is obviously much easier to damage the tops and creases of a paint job with an abrasive product, I would hesitate to give the impression that without any abrasive a buffer is not something that needs care. Hell, some towels can cause damage.

merlion · November 2001

I saw a package of microfiber cloths (Linene & Things) selling for 9.99. It has 3 pieces (different sizes) in it. Anyone use them before ? good , bad for auto cleaning ?

Also, can I apply Klasse on my auto when my local temperature is around 40's ? what is the ideal condition to apply these polymers ?

fastdriver · November 2001

merlion-

I've read about those microfiber cloths too, but I'm not sure if they're 100% cotton? Maybe someone here has used them.

fastdriver

bretfraz · November 2001

These things are all the rage with the detailing and car show crowd. Most of them have ditched their cotton terry towels in favor of microfiber (MF).

The most popular use is for removing wax and polish. But many are using them for window cleaning, car washing, wax application, and drying after wash.

I've been using MF for wax removal and window cleaning. They work absolutely terrific for both uses. No reason to go back to cotton terry.

I've got a MF towel kit on order. I'll post my impression of them if you like.

Regarding Klasse, I haven't used it in quite awhile. You may want to ask your question here:

http://www.autopia-forums.com/ForumIndex.htm

There are lots of Klasse users and many many posts describing various application techniques. Maybe read thru a few dozen posts before asking; your question has prolly been answered already.

gmlover1 · November 2001

If you use a low speed buffer I don't think you can create enough friction to burn the paint. I've been using one, and it's amazing how little wax you use and how nice it looks when your done.

jukeboxcarl2 · November 2001

You will like this wax,just make sure you use a good cleaner and polish first. I'm sure you already know this. Another good wax is Collinite Fleetwax. It is exactly the same formula as the Doublecoat,but comes in a larger can and is less money. Collinte Wax has the longest durability in my experience.

adc100 · November 2001

Thanks for the information. I appreciate it.

jster · November 2001

Microfiber towels are a polyester/polymide mixture. No cotton in them.

fastdriver · November 2001

jster-

Thanks. That's what I thought. NO polyester for my car unless it's for my windows.

fastdriver

mrdetailer · November 2001

The trick with a buffer, even if it's just wax is to keep it constantly moving. I'm amazed at how fast using a buffer is after the surface is well prepared.

Microfiber Towels: Has anyone found a real good price for them? At Sam's Club, for about 7 dollars, I can get a large stack of high quality terry cloth towels. Not inclined to change unless a proven benefit is shown.

dhanley · November 2001

Costco had a pack of 12 for $12. I like 'em for drying. They're really super absorbent, and the surface gets completely dry when i use them.

dave

mrdetailer · November 2001

We just got a membership to Cosco and at that price, I'm inclined to give it a try. Thanks.

jster · November 2001

Well...I can't blame you for sticking with cotton---I have always been very careful and would always use cotton myself---it was the only material I trusted as being pretty safe on paint.

However a few months ago I broke down and bought several microfibers for wax/sealant removal--and was pretty impressed with the ease of removal using them. I haven't noticed any scratching or marring---but I've only really used them once and I couldn't swear to it over the long run.

They do work quite nicely on glass---they sell pretty cheap ones at Target, Pep Boys and the like if anyone is interested in using them on glass---I don't think I would trust the cheaper ones on paint---more because of the edges than the towel itself.

The NicSand ones they sell at Pep Boys have a warning on the package about the edge stitching "may scratch delicate surfaces".

adc100 · November 2001

Received it today in the mail. Too late to do anything tonight. will be at the carwash at the crack of dawn tomorrow. I plan on using it only on my wheels tomorrow. Then I'll have to figure out which of my 3 vehicles I need to remove several coats of wax glaze and then apply the Collinite.

hambone32 · November 2001

How does liquid the liquid Meguire's #26 compare with the paste? I'd like to know about longevity, ease of removal, and shine. I'm really sold on the the #26 paste, but I did just order some Collinite doublecoat to try out.

bretfraz · November 2001

I'm sure someone will chime in but this has been discussed in here recently. While you're waiting you may want to scroll back some (it doesn't take too long...)

canc · November 2001

I've been using the Meguiar's Crystal Clear (or similar name I forget, but it's a triangle-shaped gold box with a Bentley on it). I think the shine I get from it is superb. It's one of the pricier waxes out there, but well worth it.

Does anyone have any experiences with this wax?

britton2 · November 2001

I tried the Meguiar's #26 liquid once - I much prefer a paste wax...it's easier to apply and remove IMO

adc100 · November 2001

I don't recall any difference in removal difficulty between the two, I've said before that I don't feeel the #26 is that difficult to remove. Don't know about durability-I assume the paste is better. No reason to use liquid in my opinion. (limited knowledge here though)

egkelly1 · November 2001

I thought that I would relate what my late grandfather used to do! In the fall off the year, Gramps would do a final car wash (around early November). He would towel dry the car, then apply a very heavy coat of SIMONIZE car wax.Now for the fun part-he would NOT buff it off! He let it stay on through the winter! Gramps always got a lot of funny looks from the neighbors, but his car stayed pretty clean through the winter! It always seemed to me that his car a had fewer scrates, and his paint stayed looking good for years.
Try it if yoiu dare!

rayfbaird · November 2001

I'm going to use both together on a regular basis. In early May I did a Clay Bar, glaze and then used my buffer to put on a coat of #26 liquid. A week later I put on #26 Paste by hand. It lasted until November. I would wash generally once a week by hand. I washed about 4 times in the auto wash. (Not nearly so satisfying.) It was still smooth, beaded well in the rain and needed no more than a Quick Detailer to look new. Acatually the only reason I stripped off the wax was that my cars are outside so I like to make sure that they have a new wax coat for winter.

I found that a buffer applied liquid coat followed later by a paste one was very durable and looked fabulous.

mrdetailer · November 2001

I am inadvertently doing a long term wax test this winter. It won't be little squares on a hood or a roof but it will be over an entire car's surface, and real world.

All of my vehicles are outside constantly so I think it's a good test.

One vehicle has Meguiars number 26 liquid, then the #26 paste applied 2 weeks later. The other 2 have 2 coats Perfect-It show car Paste wax. I was going to make all three the same, but cold weather intervened.

Initially these products were both easy to apply. However if you leave it on too long 3M is extremely hard to remove. Paste waxes are harder to buff off, but leave a thicker coat behind that is more durable. In my experience.

After 4 weeks I noticed a slight difference in beading. The 3M didn't give large beads when washing a flat surface after about 2 weeks. They are much smaller. Beading is still great, on slightly curved or vertical surfaces. After about 4 weeks the same thing happened with the Meguiars #26. But as soon as I get up to about 25 MPH they both bead dramatically.

HOWEVER, this beading was a misnomer. It just rained for the second straight day. Both waxes are beading well, just as if new. I think that the angle of the rinsing spray, or the soap may leave a slight temporary film that is wiped off when I dry the vehicle.

If using an automatic car wash with a dryer, water flies off of the 3M surface much quicker. It's definitely easier to dry in this situation.

I can still definitely feel the wax coat on the Meguiars #26. Perfect-It has a different feel. Both of them are as smooth as glass however.

3M advertises 6 months durability, Meguiars doesn't list a time. They say conditions vary too much. But over the summer my Meguiars #26 with one coat of liquid and one of paste held up for 7 months.

I'll keep you posted about durability, and other findings as winter progresses.

adc100 · November 2001

I found that the Perfect-It came off easier than the #26. Although both were no problem. The Perfect-It gives a really good look with very little work. I can't really compare the two as I have only one coat of the Perfect-It on and many coats of the #26. I did put a 2'nd coat of the Perfect-It on the hood and it came off with almost no effort.

Also put on a coat of the 845 Collinite Insulator Wax on the Sentra aluminum wheels. The stuf is very very slippery. Easier to use than the above products. Collinite has a reputation for durability. I'm hoping it will shed brake dust. I'm well pleased so far.

sandman46 · November 2001

Where can one purchase this wax product. I need some really good wax for my Corolla's paint, which doesn't hold wax very well. For some reason, my finger drags across the paint after about 2 weeks or so. No wax seems to adhere to the paint surface very well. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all!

adc100 · November 2001

http://www.carcareonline.com/mfgr_frame.html

I have not purchased from here. I found the stuff locally at an autoparts store. It's easy to find. I don't understand why you are having your trouble. I would think if you first wash with Dawn Blue, glaze with say 3M Imperial Hand Glaze, or Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze you would be O.K. If no one helps you here go to:

http://autopia-forums.com/ForumIndex.htm

britton2 · November 2001

I also have a Corolla - I bought and highly recommend the paste wax from Griots Garage (griotsgarage.com) - it is very easy to apply and remove and seems to last - it's about $20 but worth it -

hambone32 · November 2001

Everyone, Thanks for your responses. It's raining this weekend so I won't put on wax. However, the Gold Class I put on a few weeks ago is still holding up. Dirt and bird crap just wipe right off. So, I've got that going for me. I don't think it will last the winter.

adc100 · November 2001

Has anyone tried any Collinite products such as 476 Doublecoat Autowax, 925 Fiberglass Boat Wax, or 885 Fleetwax or the Marque D'Elegance? Impressions. I'm looking mainly for durability. For now I want to stay within the Collinite line.

Thanks

pjyoung · November 2001

I've never tried Collinite products, but years ago I did try using Classic Aircraft Wax, figuring that it might provide a bit more durability for a car. It didn't. Given that, I'd doubt that the boat wax will do any better. Can't say about the others though.

adc100 · November 2001

I used to use Classic Boat Wax. Does that brand still exist??

mrdetailer · November 2001

I've used both Meguiars #7 Glaze and Imperial Hand glaze as a prep for applying 3M Perfect-It Show Car Wax. They both work equally well in my opinion.

I got my last can of 3M Perfect-It Show Car Paste wax at www.autobarn.com. Unfortunately like all mail places you will have to pay shipping.

bretfraz · November 2001

Your local NAPA auto parts will carry most of the 3M line.

Also check out the local auto body & paint stores. I went to one locally and they had most everything from 3M, including stuff in the larger sizes (quart & gallon).

hambone32 · November 2001

I was thinking of getting an orbital buffer. I have used a high-speed wheel, but it has been many, many years. I want something that's safe. I was looking at the Porter Cable 7424 orbital polisher, it's supposed to be good. Does anyone have any experience with this model? I know, from experience, that cheap ones will just burn out. I often use a paste wax, and I have never used anything but a liquid with a machine. How do you apply paste with a machine? Is is better just to stick with hand waxing/polishing? I'm also thinking that an orbital might be messier than hand application. Can I get some advice?

mrdetailer · November 2001

The issue with the Paste Wax is to apply just enough on the applicator to hold, but not too much. If you put too much on it flips all over. I use a kitchen knife and spread it like butter on the applicator. I use Terry cloth applicators and once the wax is impregnated on the applicator just a little bit spreads a long ways.

adc100 · November 2001

I do use a really , really cheap buffer. I apply the wax by hand and wipe it off by hand. I then use the buffer to do a final buff. Not saying this is the right answer. Just is what I do. My buffer is .65 amp. I have done several cars already. When it goes-it goes.

bretfraz · November 2001

The Porter Cable 7424 is all the rage with detailers and serious car nuts. It's defintely the way to go if you're going the buffer route. One great feature it has is adjustable speed which the typical orbital doesn't have. Using various pads with Velcro backing you can really focus on doing a top-notch job with the 7424. One day I'll kick down and get me one.

I used to use a small spatula to apply a paste wax to a buffer pad. But the most sensible thing is to just use a liquid product. Paste waxes are designed to be hand applied; liquids machine applied. Obviously they can be used either way but liquids and buffers go together well.

Hand polishing is easy and safe but you will get better results with a buffer. Spend the $$ and get a good one. I have an old Sears which has served me well for almost 20 years. Waxmaster, Gem, and Chamberlain also make very good orbital buffers.

canc · November 2001

I have a Waxmaster orbital buffer, and I use Meguiar's Gold Class with it. I hand apply the wax, but then here's the problem: when it comes time to buff off the wax, the terry cloth bonnet starts "smearing" the wax all over. I usually resort to buffing off the wax myself, and then use the high-gloss bonnet to detail the car. Does anyone have any suggestions about what to do about this? The wax is dry when I start buffing it off (after 4-5 minutes of letting it sit), and I'm using the liquid wax.

hambone32 · November 2001

adc100, it seems that your method would work just fine, but it's really not what I had in mind as a time saving method. I like to do the final buff with a towel, anyway. Canc, how do you like the Gold Class, and what kind of car do you have? Did you buy the Solara yet? I've been using it for awhile, and I really like it. What I used to do with a high-speed wheel was clean the pad off with a screwdriver and then buff the wax off the car. I don't think you can do that with a terry-cloth bonnet. I'm starting to have doubts about these orbitals.

canc · November 2001

I currently have a Corolla, but I'm really looking at that Solara *drool*... man is that ever a nice car. I think the reasonable choice for me would be to wait until the winter's over and then trade in my Corolla for the Solara, or sell it privately. In any case, I might get special financing at that time too (I got 1.9% for 48 months on my Corolla at the same time last year).

What's this thing about using a screwdriver??? I'm using the terry cloth bonnets to take the wax off btw.

bretfraz · November 2001

IMO, the best use of an orbital buffer is for product application. The advantage of a buffer is the product is applied more evenly and uniformly which is difficult to do by hand. You can use the buffers movement to work the product into the paint which is tedious to do by hand.

After the product is applied, hand removal and final polishing is best. I have found orbital buffers to do an inadequate job of product removal.

mrdetailer · November 2001

Based on recent posts, I thought I was the only one that removed the glazes and waxes by hand. Application by machine is definitely more thorough. I find it much easier and faster with the larger towels. When it gets full, just move to a new area.

adc100 · November 2001

I must be bored. I prepared 3 panels (actually electrical switch plate covers). I glazed with 3M Imp Hand Glz. Waxed with 3M Show Car Wax, Meguiars 26 Paste, and Collinite Insulator Wax. I'll wash them tonight a number of times and report back.

bretfraz · November 2001

I've gone over the edge now. I ordered a Porter Cable 7424 from Coastal Tool and all the attachments from Classic Motoring Access.

Gonna put the old Sears buffer on the shelf.

Along with a Metro vac 'n blo and a bunch of new products and tools like micro-fiber towels, I have reverted back to a previous life of addiction to elite detailing products. It's a sickness, I know.

Now that I am certifiable I turn to you for leadership here. Keep up the great work. If my doctors allow I'll continue to post regularly.

Yours in mild sarcasm, I remain,

- - bretfraz - -

dhanley · November 2001

I just ordered klasse for myself. I have a few other products in the garage too..

Hmmm... Time for a little test of my own?
I'm thinking... Trunklid..

dave

Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

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