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Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)
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with Lexol leather products?
Currently use Lexol but thinking of giving Leatherique a shot. Ferrari, Corvette and other
car enthusiasts are starting to push Leatherique.
One problem with Leatherique is that it is hard to find. Maybe buying direct is quickest way.
TheWaxTest.com
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It seems that P21s is winning in the carnauba
category for that " show car look "
and the Collinite Marque is leading in the " durabililty " category. I have found this to be
true as I have been comparing these two waxes
this summer and fall. I have tried many of the others on their site with similar findings.
Nice little site for the enthusiast and novice.
RD
WIll Dawn remove polymer wax? Also read about alcohol? Is this needed in addition to Dawn?
Went back to dealer. THey swear they only "wipe" dark colored cars - no wax. WHile I was there I noticed dark blue Yukon with same appearance as mine - they said that's the way it was shipped -strange?
Anyway, any advice you have would be greatly appreciated. Detail shop offered to re apply polymer or reg. wax but didn't say anything about old wax needed to come off first. It seems to me I should take the crappy stuff off first.
I know we don't have Porsches, but I'd coddle my Solara just as much as if I had a Porsche. Man I hope I can get that Solara!
If you let it dry you'll need a chisel and blowtorch to remove it. This is especially true with the "boutique" waxes like Zymol, Pinnacle, P21S, One Grand, etc.
Possibly you are putting it on way to heavy. Just one quick swipe in the can puts on a couple of square feet. You should barely be able to see the product on the car as you put it on.
A couple of HOURS? Why would you do that?
Now, maybe I'm clueless here, but to me, beading is a good way to judge protection.
BigC
p.s. And if you are having that much trouble removing the #26, maybe you need to hit the weights a little more often. It is NOT that hard to remove.
But after some research and testing of new products, I've found a better method of glass cleaning.
Microfiber towels are all the rage with detailers and I'm sure most of you are using them. Classic Motoring Accessories sells some great towels including one called the Viper Glass Cleaning Cloth. See it here: http://properautocare.com/vipglasclean.html
I use it in combination with Sprayway Glass Cleaner and the results are amazing. No streaks, no smears, no lint, no nothing except perfect glass. The Sprayway works better than the 20/20 ever did. It's kinda hard to find but I've seen it at Restoration Hardware for $4.95/can. I ordered mine at Top Of The Line for $2.77/can. http://www.topoftheline.com
Anyway, thought I'd pass on a new system for cleaning glass.
BTW, I have tried the Viper and Miracle Towel brand of micro fiber detailing towels. The Viper's are kind of small and thin as compared to the NicSand's. I still like the Vipers, but not as much as the NicSands.
The Miracle Towels are very thick and plenty big, however, I have found you need to wash them, at leaste 3 times when they are new to get all the lint out of them. Very strange, the boys at Autopia rave about the Miracle Towels. I really like the NicSand towels better. Nonetheless, the Miracle Towels are a welcome part of my micro fiber arsenal.
-Larry
One thing though...it's funny how many different kinds of polish/wax there are in the Meguires premium line. I think there were 15 different bottles on the shelf. I almost wonder if they just fill each bottle with the same goop and slap on different labels.
That's what really used to confuse me when I used Meguiars products. I never knew which ones were the right ones. I did ask them once, but don't recall their response. I know the light brown bottles are their "show car" polishes, but I don't know why they make so many different kinds and don't know if there really is any difference between them except price.
fastdriver
jukebox: I'm to the point of looking for other cars to wax-my 3 are all in good shape. They have all been 3M'd and I have some #26, 3M Showcar, some Insulator Wax. And the Fleetwax arrives tomorrow. I will probably remove some wax from one of the hoods with alcohol-do a 3M and go from there. Might knock at the neighbor's door and offer free work. I'm sick. I'm guessing that the Fleetwax may be my main stuff-I'm hoping its good.
I use this every spring and fall mainly to get rid of tar and road grime. Then use cleaner-polish,then wax. Let me know if Dawn will remove the Collinte. Thanks
that get contaminants that etch the glass.
My question is does anyone know of anything
which may hide or masque these inperfections?
Thanks,
rd
Thanks in advance.
My next question is what should I use with a buffer?? Currently Ive been using Blitz wax and 3M Imperial hand glaze and have had great results. Can I still use the Blitz with the buffer and if not, is there something equivalent I can switch to?? Also What are the steps for using the buffer..Do you apply/remove the wax with the machine or do you apply the wax by hand then remove with the machine??..I did say I was a beginner!!! ;o)
http://www.autopia-carport.com./ForumIndex.htm
Thanks again!!
My Sears came with an impervious foam pad. The terry bonnets work well for that. I use the terry bonnets to apply both glaze and wax. The foam pad is easily cleaned by a paper towel. I like the terry cloth bonnets because they are easy to clean. I clean by hand in the kitchen sink to remove the stains and gross junk, then wash them in the washer. They last a long time.
The foam pads with the velcro will be easier to change out, but harder to clean. I really don't think they can be machine washed.
When using the buffer, remember to keep it moving.
mrdetailer..Once you apply and buff your final coat of wax, do you dry buff the area as well with a clean bonnet?? I guess Im a little unsure of the entire process..The way I understand it is that you apply polish/glaze with the machine then either hand buff or change to a clean pad and machine buff. Then do the same thing with your wax. After that is done do you then switch to another pad and dry buff the car??
I purchased a silver Protege5 last week and am looking for a wax that will provide lasting protection from the elements. I am more concerned about protecting the car than maintaining a high gloss shine. I live in an apartment and my car sits outside uncovered. Oklahoma winters are usually mild with ice as the only major threat (and salt on the roads).
I clean my cars at a coin-op using the spray soap, a cleaning mitt, and rinsing with the spray.
From reading many of these posts, it seems that the consensus is Meguiars #26 or Collinite for laymen like myself. Can anyone provide any suggestions based on my circumstance?? Also, since the car is new, how much (if any) preping do I need to do (i.e. cleaner waxes, etc.)??
I must apologize for the ignorance of this question, but do I wax the plastic bumpers on my Protege5?? I've been waxing my car for the past few years, but never paid serious attention to it as it was an old, old Acura.
Your help and comments are very much appreciated.
Hope that helps.
PF
For prepping - I didn't prep my car when it was new, but I have read in several places that claying and other types of preparation tend to provide even better results.