Has anyone compared Leatherique leather products with Lexol leather products?
Currently use Lexol but thinking of giving Leatherique a shot. Ferrari, Corvette and other car enthusiasts are starting to push Leatherique. One problem with Leatherique is that it is hard to find. Maybe buying direct is quickest way.
TheWaxTest.com ------------------------ It seems that P21s is winning in the carnauba category for that " show car look " and the Collinite Marque is leading in the " durabililty " category. I have found this to be true as I have been comparing these two waxes this summer and fall. I have tried many of the others on their site with similar findings. Nice little site for the enthusiast and novice.
www.thewaxtest.com is turning out to be a very informative and ... objective site. In all honesty I was a bit doubting of their tests and methodology. The site has since been "reworked" and offers an excellent place to see where your favorite wax or polymer places. They aren't trying to convince anyone that any one product is "better" than the others, but they offer some very good (though still subjective) data to compate. Kudos to these guys ...they're saving the rest of us a lot of work.
Hey there - read over previous msgs. You all seem like a knowledgeable bunch. WOndering if you could help me. Recently purchased 01 black (I know!) Yukon. When I picked it up it looked like it had a bad wax job. Was going to get it waxed at a detail shop anyway so I thought they would be able to fix the hazing. THey agreed it was bad and said they would buff/wax/buff. THey did this with a polymer "sealant". Looked great when I picked it up - even in bright sunlight. It looked great for a week/.After it rained it developed more haziness and some of the swirls came back.
WIll Dawn remove polymer wax? Also read about alcohol? Is this needed in addition to Dawn?
Went back to dealer. THey swear they only "wipe" dark colored cars - no wax. WHile I was there I noticed dark blue Yukon with same appearance as mine - they said that's the way it was shipped -strange?
Anyway, any advice you have would be greatly appreciated. Detail shop offered to re apply polymer or reg. wax but didn't say anything about old wax needed to come off first. It seems to me I should take the crappy stuff off first.
Canc, Gold Class didn't do that bad compared to the other mid-range waxes. I think it got a C-, while #26 got a C, and Collinite Doublecoat got a C+. When you consider how much easier Gold Class is to use (I can put it on and off in half the time of #26) I think it did rather well. Please keep in mind we are not driving Porsches, we're driving Toyota's, and it's pretty good stuff for a Toyota. Have you ever applied a Carnauba paste?
I did... and boy is it ever a pain to remove. Ha! In my more innocent days, I tried using my buffer to remove it first (it was Zymol which is not that great considering the hefty price tag). The Gold really is a charm to buff off. You use Gold Class too right?
I know we don't have Porsches, but I'd coddle my Solara just as much as if I had a Porsche. Man I hope I can get that Solara!
Best thing to do with carnaubas is to remove quickly after application. Work in a 12"x12" section, apply wax evenly and rather thinly, then wipe off.
If you let it dry you'll need a chisel and blowtorch to remove it. This is especially true with the "boutique" waxes like Zymol, Pinnacle, P21S, One Grand, etc.
If it is that much of a problem removing this wax you are doing something wrong or at least different. I can go down to the carwash: Wash dry and put a coat of #26 on hood, roof and trunk in less than an hour. The actual wax/removal on the hood, roof and trunk takes about 15 minutes or less. Once you have a layer or two on there it is easier to remove than of the Walmart type products. As Bret indicated, the longer you let it on the harder it is to come off. But honestly, unless you let it bake in the sun for a couple of hours its not that tough to get off. On 70 degree day you can easily let it on a couple of hours and not have a problem. (in my experience) I have it on all three of my cars now so I don't think that what I do is unusual.
Possibly you are putting it on way to heavy. Just one quick swipe in the can puts on a couple of square feet. You should barely be able to see the product on the car as you put it on.
You don't even have to apply pressure to wipe off Gold Class. It is WAY easier to wipe off than #26. I can wipe it off in LESS than half the time. I'd say I could wiped off the hood in under 30 seconds, easy. adc100, you really have to try Gold Class to understand the difference.
Now, I've never used the Gold Class, but given the info on thewaxtest.com, I'm glad I chose #26 for my new car. I'm not sure what you guys look for in a wax, but i look for protection for my BLACK paint. The Gold Class never even really beaded!!! However, according to the website, the #26 has some of the tightest beads after 5 weeks (I have no idea where the week 6 update is) of ANY of the products on there.
Now, maybe I'm clueless here, but to me, beading is a good way to judge protection.
BigC
p.s. And if you are having that much trouble removing the #26, maybe you need to hit the weights a little more often. It is NOT that hard to remove.
Bigcompact, you say that you never used Gold Class, and that it never beaded. I waxed my car with Gold Class three weeks ago, it's raining, I'm looking at it right now, and it's beading. Pretty darn well, I might add. I agree that #26 is better. I know it beads better. I already lift weights. I only use Gold Class to save time, and it really prevents things from staining the paint, even though it doesn't bead as well. I have not had any stains in my paint since I started using Gold Class. So I figure, how bad can it be?
I'm quite sure #26 is not the best around. I feel that Meguiars has made it to be the best within their line. I could be wrong though. I look for durability first and foremost. I have tried the 3M Showcar Wax which is not as durable and the Collinite 845 which is supposed to be durable. Next stop is the Collinite3 Fleetwax.
I have used Gold Class On my 1999 Dark Blue Chevy Tahoe since the truck was new. I have had great results. Easy to apply, easy to remove and gives the truck a great shine. Water beads very well and seems to last for approximately 2 - 3 months. Thought about applying a coat of #26 on top of the Gold Class next time I wax. Has anyone tried this, and if so have the results been good? Thanks
bigcompact, and you also make a good point. It is a pleasure discussing things with you. I am glad that you are happy with #26. Meguire's #26 is an excellent choice for a black vehicle, because it will never leave a swirl mark. It was the only wax I could use on my red 300ZX. It is also the best quality wax that you can buy just about anywhere. All this talk about Collinite, Zaino, Klasse, etc....I can't buy any of that stuff in my local stores, it has to be special ordered. I just bought a new can of #26 the other day, because winter is coming up, and I know I can wax now and it will last until spring. The Gold Class won't make it.
Did anyone every read reviews of car wax on epinions.com? People review all kinds off wax, but there's no reviews for any Meguire's products. What's up with that? I'm thinking something weird is going on there.
I tried Gold Class followed by #26 for years. It lasts somewhat longer, but not as long as if you used a glaze then just the #26. I used a #26 liquid followed by a #26 paste 2 weeks later, and this treatment lasted over 7 months. It might have been longer, but I always put on new coats for winter.
For the past five years I've been using a combo of Griot's Garage polypropelene window towels and Eagle One's 20/20 glass cleaner. This has been a great system (or so I thought) as the towels leave no lint, they're strong, and the 20/20 cuts thru all kinds of gunk.
But after some research and testing of new products, I've found a better method of glass cleaning.
Microfiber towels are all the rage with detailers and I'm sure most of you are using them. Classic Motoring Accessories sells some great towels including one called the Viper Glass Cleaning Cloth. See it here: http://properautocare.com/vipglasclean.html
I use it in combination with Sprayway Glass Cleaner and the results are amazing. No streaks, no smears, no lint, no nothing except perfect glass. The Sprayway works better than the 20/20 ever did. It's kinda hard to find but I've seen it at Restoration Hardware for $4.95/can. I ordered mine at Top Of The Line for $2.77/can. http://www.topoftheline.com
Anyway, thought I'd pass on a new system for cleaning glass.
I've also used Spraway Glass Cleaner and love it - also ordered it from Top of the Line - a great homemade cleaner is equal parts of distilled water and white vinegar - this is ideal for getting rid of water spots that store-bought cleaners can't get.
Bret, I use the NicSand micro fiber towels, available at Pep Boys. The NicSand come in several different colors and I dedicate one color for window cleaning, only. I also wash them separately, from the NicSand detailing cloths which I use, to remove wax/polish or quick detailer. Maybe overkill? However, the micro fiber NicSands and Stoner's Invisible Glass regime work great for me.
BTW, I have tried the Viper and Miracle Towel brand of micro fiber detailing towels. The Viper's are kind of small and thin as compared to the NicSand's. I still like the Vipers, but not as much as the NicSands.
The Miracle Towels are very thick and plenty big, however, I have found you need to wash them, at leaste 3 times when they are new to get all the lint out of them. Very strange, the boys at Autopia rave about the Miracle Towels. I really like the NicSand towels better. Nonetheless, the Miracle Towels are a welcome part of my micro fiber arsenal.
In Akron Ohio area, Collinite wax is available in most of the above stores as well as body shop supply stores. IF you can`t find it, you can order at collinite.com #26 is a good product and the Gold Class wax does a nice job, but if you want extra durability the Collinite waxes will do the trick. The Fleetwax paste is exactly the same wax as the Doublecoat paste, only in a larger can. This is what I like to use, especially in the winter months. The Insulator Wax is also a good choice and is easy to use.
I agree and your information is correct. I just ordered 2 cans of the Fleetwax. The Insulator is the same wax in liquid form. Their "Marc" has 25% more Carnuba and some fragerance than the above products for ease of application. It lasts no better than the above products. I used the Insulator Wax-so far so good. Good to hear the Fleetwax works for you. I'm anxious to try. I assume it will not deliver a showcar finish, but really unless you have a showcar, 10 minutes on the road and they are all equal. I go for durability.
I bought a bottle of Meguires' 24 or 26 (can't remember) on impulse over the weekend. Used it with a Black & Decker 9" polisher. What a fabulous finish. I think it's much deeper and shinier than my usual Meguires plain cleaner/wax, although part of that may be a result of using the buffer instead of my tired fingers.
One thing though...it's funny how many different kinds of polish/wax there are in the Meguires premium line. I think there were 15 different bottles on the shelf. I almost wonder if they just fill each bottle with the same goop and slap on different labels.
The Fleetwax will deliver a showcar finish depending on how you prepair the paint. Clean and polish first. Clay, 3M Imperial Hand Glaze, then Wax. #7 Show Car is also a very good polish. Gold Class clear coat prep and swirl mark reducer also is very good and it kills 2 birds with 1 stone. Using any of these products first will give you great results assuming your paint is in good condition.
That's what really used to confuse me when I used Meguiars products. I never knew which ones were the right ones. I did ask them once, but don't recall their response. I know the light brown bottles are their "show car" polishes, but I don't know why they make so many different kinds and don't know if there really is any difference between them except price.
They make money from Joe Sixpack and the consumate professional. Joe sixpack has certain expectations and so does the professional. I used to be the Joe Sixpack kind of guy, but now that I am retired I'm advancing slightly. Speaking of sixpacks-I'm getting thirsty. What I like about Meguiars is that they have a very good 800# on their bottles.
jukebox: I'm to the point of looking for other cars to wax-my 3 are all in good shape. They have all been 3M'd and I have some #26, 3M Showcar, some Insulator Wax. And the Fleetwax arrives tomorrow. I will probably remove some wax from one of the hoods with alcohol-do a 3M and go from there. Might knock at the neighbor's door and offer free work. I'm sick. I'm guessing that the Fleetwax may be my main stuff-I'm hoping its good.
Instead of alcohol. Some like to use Dawn dishwashing soap first. This will work if you are using a water based wax. I`m not sure if it will remove a petroleum based wax. Collinite says its detergant proof. I have`nt tried this, but mineral spirits will do the job. It`s not expensive and won`t damadge the paint. I use this every spring and fall mainly to get rid of tar and road grime. Then use cleaner-polish,then wax. Let me know if Dawn will remove the Collinte. Thanks
Didn't like the answer that you probably have to replace the windshield? It is the right answer. You can probably grind off the scratches with some sort of polishing compound, but the problem is that is how prescription glasses are made. Unless you are real sure of what you are doing what will happen is that you will introduce distortion and many more tiny scratches to your windshield. There are some companies who used to do this, but it is so labor intensive and not called for very often so I haven't seen it advertised in years. Most people who allow their windshield wipers to grind into the glass probably are not going to pay to have the fruits of their inattentiveness removed. If it really bothers you, go to an auto parts store and ask at the parts counter for some compound that might remove these marks, but be prepared to spring for a new windshield. I bet the final result will be worse than the damage is now unless you get real lucky.
protogextwo - Can you recall how much the NicSand micro fiber towels cost at Pep Boys and how large they are? I just received my Viper glass cleaning towels and was surprised at how small they are.
Ive been reading here for awhile and have learned alot from all of you..Im looking at some orbital buffers and am considering a Waxmaster or the Sears 10"..Are they basically the same quality or is one better than the other??
My next question is what should I use with a buffer?? Currently Ive been using Blitz wax and 3M Imperial hand glaze and have had great results. Can I still use the Blitz with the buffer and if not, is there something equivalent I can switch to?? Also What are the steps for using the buffer..Do you apply/remove the wax with the machine or do you apply the wax by hand then remove with the machine??..I did say I was a beginner!!! ;o)
You'll get your questions here. You might want to do a search first or review some of the posts. Your answer will be somewhere. This is the ultimate detailing forum.
Saw a box that had Reflections polish and a bottle of their car wash for $11.99 at Summit Racing yesterday. Could`nt resist the buy. They wanted $12.45 just for the polish. I decided to use this on my work car 98 Nissan Sentra. I could`nt believe how easy this stuff is to use. Also left no powdery residue. They say this is for the synthetic users. It gave a very good shine,and its supposed to be long lasting. We`ll see. I contacted Mothers via. internet with some questions,but have`nt heard back from them yet. Has anyone on this forum used this yet? If you thought Gold Class was easy to use-this is even easier. The shine is comparable to Gold Class wax.
The current rage is supposedly the Porter Cable model for an electric buffer. Of the 2 you listed they would probably be of about the same quality. My experience has been that I would always prefer a smaller pad to a larger one because size is weight, weight is fatigue, fatigue is loss of control. Something to consider. I suppose you could spread the paste wax (Blitz) with a buffer, but I would think you would do just as well hand waxing. Use the buffer for polishing. 3M makes Imperial Machine Glaze which is the machine version of IMH. Finally, in my simple world, foam is application and terry cloth is removal.
I always remove the Wax with large 100% cotton terry cloth towels. It's faster, and easier to move to a clean spot.
My Sears came with an impervious foam pad. The terry bonnets work well for that. I use the terry bonnets to apply both glaze and wax. The foam pad is easily cleaned by a paper towel. I like the terry cloth bonnets because they are easy to clean. I clean by hand in the kitchen sink to remove the stains and gross junk, then wash them in the washer. They last a long time.
The foam pads with the velcro will be easier to change out, but harder to clean. I really don't think they can be machine washed.
When using the buffer, remember to keep it moving.
rs petty..Yes I have been looking at the Porter Cable buffer and am now considering getting this model..I didnt consider the smaller pad benefits but it makes perfect sense..Might as well spend the money for a good one up front!!
mrdetailer..Once you apply and buff your final coat of wax, do you dry buff the area as well with a clean bonnet?? I guess Im a little unsure of the entire process..The way I understand it is that you apply polish/glaze with the machine then either hand buff or change to a clean pad and machine buff. Then do the same thing with your wax. After that is done do you then switch to another pad and dry buff the car??
I've found it to be faster and easier for both glazes and waxes. After I wipe it off the first time, I get a clean towel and wipe it again to catch any little bits left over.
Looking for some advice and I know this is the place to get it...
I purchased a silver Protege5 last week and am looking for a wax that will provide lasting protection from the elements. I am more concerned about protecting the car than maintaining a high gloss shine. I live in an apartment and my car sits outside uncovered. Oklahoma winters are usually mild with ice as the only major threat (and salt on the roads).
I clean my cars at a coin-op using the spray soap, a cleaning mitt, and rinsing with the spray.
From reading many of these posts, it seems that the consensus is Meguiars #26 or Collinite for laymen like myself. Can anyone provide any suggestions based on my circumstance?? Also, since the car is new, how much (if any) preping do I need to do (i.e. cleaner waxes, etc.)??
I must apologize for the ignorance of this question, but do I wax the plastic bumpers on my Protege5?? I've been waxing my car for the past few years, but never paid serious attention to it as it was an old, old Acura.
I wax the plastic bumpers on my '01 Pro LX Sedan. Causes no trouble and looks great. Somebody told me once on here that wax was ok on all painted surfaces, but avoid the plastic trim.
There is a long term wax test at http://www.thewaxtest.com . It's subjective, but it will give you a place to compare many different waxes and polymer products. Use that info with info from these boards and have fun...
For prepping - I didn't prep my car when it was new, but I have read in several places that claying and other types of preparation tend to provide even better results.
The best advice I got was not so much which product to use as to use it regularly and washing is the best maintenance you can do to keep your finish looking good longer. The P21S products in the waxtest are worth looking at based on the results of that site. BTW, nice car.
Depending on where you live and if you want to get protection on quick and with something that looks good and lasts pretty well is Meguires #26. Do it first with Meguiar's #7 Show Car or better yet the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze and you are ready for the #26. Personally I would go only with the Paste, but then again I am not a long time expert or perfectionist. My car does pretty darn good though. If time is not an issue I wouold recommend the Collinite Fleetwax (thats the same as the 476s,) See collinite.com for a dealer near you.
I applied collinite double-coat to my car the other day and I do not notice any better beading than Meguire's #26 paste. I'll have to see if it last's longer.
Comments
with Lexol leather products?
Currently use Lexol but thinking of giving Leatherique a shot. Ferrari, Corvette and other
car enthusiasts are starting to push Leatherique.
One problem with Leatherique is that it is hard to find. Maybe buying direct is quickest way.
TheWaxTest.com
------------------------
It seems that P21s is winning in the carnauba
category for that " show car look "
and the Collinite Marque is leading in the " durabililty " category. I have found this to be
true as I have been comparing these two waxes
this summer and fall. I have tried many of the others on their site with similar findings.
Nice little site for the enthusiast and novice.
RD
WIll Dawn remove polymer wax? Also read about alcohol? Is this needed in addition to Dawn?
Went back to dealer. THey swear they only "wipe" dark colored cars - no wax. WHile I was there I noticed dark blue Yukon with same appearance as mine - they said that's the way it was shipped -strange?
Anyway, any advice you have would be greatly appreciated. Detail shop offered to re apply polymer or reg. wax but didn't say anything about old wax needed to come off first. It seems to me I should take the crappy stuff off first.
I know we don't have Porsches, but I'd coddle my Solara just as much as if I had a Porsche. Man I hope I can get that Solara!
If you let it dry you'll need a chisel and blowtorch to remove it. This is especially true with the "boutique" waxes like Zymol, Pinnacle, P21S, One Grand, etc.
Possibly you are putting it on way to heavy. Just one quick swipe in the can puts on a couple of square feet. You should barely be able to see the product on the car as you put it on.
A couple of HOURS? Why would you do that?
Now, maybe I'm clueless here, but to me, beading is a good way to judge protection.
BigC
p.s. And if you are having that much trouble removing the #26, maybe you need to hit the weights a little more often. It is NOT that hard to remove.
But after some research and testing of new products, I've found a better method of glass cleaning.
Microfiber towels are all the rage with detailers and I'm sure most of you are using them. Classic Motoring Accessories sells some great towels including one called the Viper Glass Cleaning Cloth. See it here: http://properautocare.com/vipglasclean.html
I use it in combination with Sprayway Glass Cleaner and the results are amazing. No streaks, no smears, no lint, no nothing except perfect glass. The Sprayway works better than the 20/20 ever did. It's kinda hard to find but I've seen it at Restoration Hardware for $4.95/can. I ordered mine at Top Of The Line for $2.77/can. http://www.topoftheline.com
Anyway, thought I'd pass on a new system for cleaning glass.
BTW, I have tried the Viper and Miracle Towel brand of micro fiber detailing towels. The Viper's are kind of small and thin as compared to the NicSand's. I still like the Vipers, but not as much as the NicSands.
The Miracle Towels are very thick and plenty big, however, I have found you need to wash them, at leaste 3 times when they are new to get all the lint out of them. Very strange, the boys at Autopia rave about the Miracle Towels. I really like the NicSand towels better. Nonetheless, the Miracle Towels are a welcome part of my micro fiber arsenal.
-Larry
One thing though...it's funny how many different kinds of polish/wax there are in the Meguires premium line. I think there were 15 different bottles on the shelf. I almost wonder if they just fill each bottle with the same goop and slap on different labels.
That's what really used to confuse me when I used Meguiars products. I never knew which ones were the right ones. I did ask them once, but don't recall their response. I know the light brown bottles are their "show car" polishes, but I don't know why they make so many different kinds and don't know if there really is any difference between them except price.
fastdriver
jukebox: I'm to the point of looking for other cars to wax-my 3 are all in good shape. They have all been 3M'd and I have some #26, 3M Showcar, some Insulator Wax. And the Fleetwax arrives tomorrow. I will probably remove some wax from one of the hoods with alcohol-do a 3M and go from there. Might knock at the neighbor's door and offer free work. I'm sick. I'm guessing that the Fleetwax may be my main stuff-I'm hoping its good.
I use this every spring and fall mainly to get rid of tar and road grime. Then use cleaner-polish,then wax. Let me know if Dawn will remove the Collinte. Thanks
that get contaminants that etch the glass.
My question is does anyone know of anything
which may hide or masque these inperfections?
Thanks,
rd
Thanks in advance.
My next question is what should I use with a buffer?? Currently Ive been using Blitz wax and 3M Imperial hand glaze and have had great results. Can I still use the Blitz with the buffer and if not, is there something equivalent I can switch to?? Also What are the steps for using the buffer..Do you apply/remove the wax with the machine or do you apply the wax by hand then remove with the machine??..I did say I was a beginner!!! ;o)
http://www.autopia-carport.com./ForumIndex.htm
Thanks again!!
My Sears came with an impervious foam pad. The terry bonnets work well for that. I use the terry bonnets to apply both glaze and wax. The foam pad is easily cleaned by a paper towel. I like the terry cloth bonnets because they are easy to clean. I clean by hand in the kitchen sink to remove the stains and gross junk, then wash them in the washer. They last a long time.
The foam pads with the velcro will be easier to change out, but harder to clean. I really don't think they can be machine washed.
When using the buffer, remember to keep it moving.
mrdetailer..Once you apply and buff your final coat of wax, do you dry buff the area as well with a clean bonnet?? I guess Im a little unsure of the entire process..The way I understand it is that you apply polish/glaze with the machine then either hand buff or change to a clean pad and machine buff. Then do the same thing with your wax. After that is done do you then switch to another pad and dry buff the car??
I purchased a silver Protege5 last week and am looking for a wax that will provide lasting protection from the elements. I am more concerned about protecting the car than maintaining a high gloss shine. I live in an apartment and my car sits outside uncovered. Oklahoma winters are usually mild with ice as the only major threat (and salt on the roads).
I clean my cars at a coin-op using the spray soap, a cleaning mitt, and rinsing with the spray.
From reading many of these posts, it seems that the consensus is Meguiars #26 or Collinite for laymen like myself. Can anyone provide any suggestions based on my circumstance?? Also, since the car is new, how much (if any) preping do I need to do (i.e. cleaner waxes, etc.)??
I must apologize for the ignorance of this question, but do I wax the plastic bumpers on my Protege5?? I've been waxing my car for the past few years, but never paid serious attention to it as it was an old, old Acura.
Your help and comments are very much appreciated.
Hope that helps.
PF
For prepping - I didn't prep my car when it was new, but I have read in several places that claying and other types of preparation tend to provide even better results.