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Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)
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I spray the tire well with it, then wet a stiff brush with it and scrub the tire, then spray some more. As I am done with the last tire it is time to hose it off. Be sure to use lots of water, and really rinse. If you've cleaned the wheels too, then you must re-wax them at this point.
DON'T let the tire or wheel cleaner dry before hosing it off!!!
long-lasting paint protection. The so-called
polymer sealants, generally last longer than
carnauba-based waxes, so that is probably you're
best bet.
If you are looking for an inexpensive product,
available at most large retailers, then Nu-Finish
is probably the way to go. Many people on this
board have used it, and claimed that it is a very
long lasting product. Also Consumer Reports
claimed it was the longest lasting of the products
they tested a number of years back.
If you want to spend a little more money, I have
used Klasse All-in-One, which is a German made
product. It gives an excellent shine and is very
long lasting. It is the best polymer-type product
IMHO. Available at:
www.smoothfinish.com
www.properautocare.com
among others. Also have heard that it is
available at Mercedes dealerships.
As to easy to use wax, I think Nufinish takes the prize as to longevity and I am sure if you really wanted to you could do the seven stage process, but it worked quite well after a wash job too. It has lasted a couple of months since my initial application, but I know that is not a long time. I used it because I read the Consumer Reports article. I trust them with things like that, I just don't want them telling me what a great car the Checker is or what a great deal the Neon is. In the area of great cars they are clueless.
Thanks!
Any specific products out there that are good foe keeping chrome shiny and new looking?
My first car (74 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus, bought new - I loved that car!) had chrome bumpers. Being a lot younger then, I waxed it frequently and waxed all the chrome on it with "Classic" car wax. When I got ready to trade it in 1978, one of the new guys where I worked paid me the ulitmate compliment...he thought it was brand new. I have to admit, it did look good, better than showroom condition!
Kevin
It is sold online at a number of sources, though I believe you have to go to the Zymol website if you want to buy the Wheel Coat, separately.
Don't think you'd be hurting your wheels by just using a wax or protectant on them, however. The big advantage of the spray on wax is ease of use, more than anything else-- you don't have to buff it out from the small spaces on the wheels.
It's a foam application for wheels that you can get at any run of the mill auto store. Turned the
rims on my truck (one I no longer have) a weird shade blue/purple. Ruined all 4 of them. I learned my lesson about testing products on a small inconspicuous place before going gung-ho with it.
I usually don't let the brake dust and road junk cake up on the wheels, and keep them waxed, so the wheel cleaners don't really have much advantage.
If you are looking for a one bottle, one step procedure, I liked Eagle One Wet. I've used it in the past and for what it is, it's a good product.
Very briefly:
Meguiar's Cleaner Wax is now well out in the pack. Perhaps a sign that the products that were already good stayed the same while the competition went the "new, improved" route.
New top-5 products include Zymol Cleaner Wax, Prestone Bullet Wax, 3M One-step, Nu Finish Paste and Armor-All Wax. Turtle Wax, Eagle One and Blue Coral products also make it to the "VG" bracket.
They rate for shine (no one got the 5/5 score), durability, ease of use, cleaning, and scratching/hazing. Even the best products scored just a 3 in the 1-to-5 scale on at least 2 criteria. Interestingly, they say that their test shows even the best products will give only a couple of months' service.
They do specifically point out weaknesses on their top products: scratching/hazing (sp. dark paint) with Nu-Finish and Armor-All, short durability with 3M and Zymol, "middling" cleaning performance with Zymol and Nu-Finish.
Review of the Review:
This review is directed towards a person not concerned with fine differences between polish and wax, shopping among chain-store products for something to shine his/her everyday ride w. the least effort, dedicating to it maybe two hours one morning a month, at best.
In this setting there is no consideration to be given to claying, orbital buffing, what have you -- Auto-Show quality was expressly *not* sought. The reviewers overtly declare themselves unimpressed by "persnickety" 3-step systems, I quote: "Waxing a car is drudgery enough, but imagine doing it 3 times in a row... you could spend from dawn to dusk [at it]"
Thus Nu-Finish -- good gloss, easy to apply, long duration, so-so-cleaning -- now scores well above Meguiar's -- good gloss, easy to apply, good cleaning, but short duration (i.e. more mornings of work for the customer).
CHROME - There are a few Chrome polishes out there from 3M and Mother's for example. BUT they are polishes, for cleaning and shining, not waxes. They do a good job of removing road grime, and other stuff that the chrome is exposed to. I would then wax over it. I beleive that they are slightly abrasive. Don't worry, chrome is extremely hard. By the way the chrome polish is also really good for glass - cleans everything off! The polishes I mention are a whitish liquid that dries to a white haze and is buffed off.
CLEAR COAT SCUFF - It sounds like it is extrememly scuffed. Sorry to hear it. I would try a more agressive buffing or polishing compound - some are much more abrasive than others. The, go finere and finer until it is gone and shiny again. As a last resort I would try some #600 wet/dry sandpaper. It is nearly paper smooth, and then you polish over it. If this makes you nervous, a good body/paint shop can buff out the scuff, if it is ot through the paint to teh primer. Good luck!
I'm very new to car detailing, and I've just bought a new Passport.
Over the weekend I was in autozone, shopping for a great car wax.
I bought Meguiar's Cleaner Wax. It looks great and it supposed to do the polish stage and some protection.
Then I saw Meguiar's Show Car Deep Wax that's supposed to be applied after the polish wax to give lasting protection.
Is the Deep wax really necessary ? or is it just a marketing gimmick ?
thanks in advance y'all,
Haniel.
I meant the Honda Passport SUV.
Thanks,
Haniel.
Sorry my mind blanked out, but I seem to get a day older with each passing day. Amazing!
The passport is simply a rebadged isuzu, with a higher price tag and a shorter warranty.
dave
What exactly will happen to the paint if you wax it immediately after the body work?
http://www.audiworld.com/search/index.html
If you wax on top of fresh, non-cured paint, it can start to flake off after a while, since the wax seals the paint, preventing proper drying.
I'm new to this forum. I found it by surfing to find some info on good wax. I use mothers carnauba wax BTW.
Some questions: My car had a very small dent on the rear driver side door (I think someone dented on parking lot). I realized that they washed (I don't know if they waxed) right after the body work as a curtesy. They told me something about paint having to be dried further, but told me that it's ok to wash. When I got home, I realized that there were some strange pores (very little "holes" on the clear coats, which doesn't expose the paint inside though). Funny thing is that the car was in for the rear driver side door dent, but I could find these "pore" on the front driver's door as well. I didn't go back to them. I guess the body shop job can't be perfect after all. I'm curious, do you guys think that it's due to their washing/waxing right after body work. They did told me something about paint having to dry further. Then, why the front door? I was thinking maybe, in order for them to do the job, they have to warm the body panel in order to peel off the paint around the dent. And in this process, they might have damaged the front door as well. Or, it's them washing the car. I don't know anything about body work. It's the first time my car had to go through a minor body work. I don't think those pores will hurt the car in long term personally. But, I'm so curious. Please let me know. --terminalis
P.S.: sorry for the long post BTW.
Either way, take it back to the body shop and ask them about it. They probably didn't wax, just wash, that's OK.
thanks for you info. I don't think it was there before. anyway, I'll mention to them. BTW, I don't think that body shop can do a work as nice as factory painting and coating. Thanks. Later.
--terminalis
I now use Meguiar's liquid car cleaner on my 90 Civic which has problems with oxidation. On my new Honda Odyssey minivan I'm using Zaino.
I have a 1993 Nissan (dark blue) that I used Nu Finish on, and it does have a lot of swirl marks. I'd like to try the remover you mentioned, but I haven't been able to find it anywhere. Did you get it at an auto parts store, a chain store, or online?
Dave
dave
Next time I go to Chicago I'll have to find one. Until then I'll keep looking.
Dave
Try a NAPA store. IF they don't have it, they can special order it.
fastdriver from the OTHER wax/polish topic! ;-))
I'll have to try driving a different route home tonight.
Dave