Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

jster · May 2002

Ammonia is the ingredient in glass cleaners that degrades window tint. As long as you use a window cleaner that doesn't contain ammonia, you will be fine.

Either Eagle One 20/20 or Stoners will work fine on tinted windows--no ammonia in either one.

karl · May 2002

I usually do not use wheel cleaners because I just wash the wheels when I wash my cars, and that takes care of it.

But if you need a wheel cleaner that won't harm clear coat/ chrome/ polished finish wheels, try putting some Simple Green citrus degreaser in a spray bottle, spray it all over your wheels, wait a few minutes, scrub it in (sponge), then hose it off. This has worked well for me when I've needed it (cleaning old wheels, not my cars).

-Karl

karl · May 2002

I dislike Armor All's protectant (that shiny greasy stuff), but have had good results with their vinyl cleaner and glass cleaner. So I decided to try some of their liquid wax (hey, it was $0.99 on clearance at Kragen's) on my Jeep Cherokee, which has plenty of scratches, so it's a good guinea pig.

Initial impressions: I think this is a polymer wax. Went on easily, dried quickly, and buffs off very easily. A little smudging, so it took some extra buffing. But it gave a really nice, deep, wet-look shine -- reminded me of the Eagle One Wet Polish + Wax that I've used before.

I like polymer waxes because they seem to be the easiest to apply & remove, and last a decent time. The worst wax I've used has been carnauba paste wax (Meguiar's, I think), which was difficult to apply, took f o r e v e r to dry, then took even longer to remove. And, to add insult to injury, it didn't last long at all.

I haven't tried Zymol, but Costco here carries it ($14 - 2 bottles), and when I buy the next round of wax I'll probably give it a shot.

-Karl

bdtoy · May 2002

Hi I'm new to this forum. I just bought a 2002 Highlander and I'm researching what polish I should use. My previous car had some body work done and they used Klasse on it. Can any one give some advice or direct me to a link. I started at the beginning and i know not to use the "Z" word, but now its 1900 post and my eyes are getting blurry. Thanks

mschukar · May 2002

I applied a coat of the Klasse All-in-One a week ago. The application was extreamly easy; you can do one section at a time without waiting for it to dry, it doesn't leave white residue on rubber/plastic trim, it wipes on and off easily, etc. I read about it on the BMW forum where people have high praise for it. I also read a comparison here: http://www.deckowski.com/wax%20off/results.htm

Basically, Klasse came in second in shine to Zaino, but the ease of application makes it a no brainer for me; I'm not going to spend most of my Saturday waxing my car.

I can't give you any long term results, but the easy application means I will probably keep it up longer and more frequently than other polishes/waxes. This should result in better long term shine for me.

I bought mine at: http://properautocare.com/kla-16.html They included an applicator pad and I bought a set of 3 microfiber towels as well.

-murray

bretfraz · May 2002

Use it, you'll love it. Their All In One (AIO) is a great one-step product; maybe the best one on the market. For added gloss and protection, use their Sealant Glaze after a coat of AIO.

I'm sure you saw this during your 1900 post trek, but the two people I think know all about Klasse are:

http://www.tacscar.com

http://www.yosteve.com

Two Klasse experts without question. If you buy your Klasse from them they'll give you all the little tips and tricks to make it work beautifully.

oldstyle · May 2002

What is the best device to use to dry a car w/o scrathing it. I have seen the Absorbor and microfiber towels at Wal-mart. Are these any good? I have been using bath towels labeled "100% cotton and made in the USA;" but with a new car I want to go with something else since 100% cotton towels are usually not ALL cotton.

Regards,

OldStyle

jsalemi · May 2002

oldstyle: I have the Absorbor, and it's great! Really soaks up water fast, and leaves very little behind (which can be wiped up with a towel for the final touch).

Many folks also swear by the "Big Blue Towel" that Classic Motoring Accessories sells. You can check it out at http://www.properautocare.com.

---joe

bretfraz · May 2002

Here are two techniques I've used to dry cars.

Old Way: Absorber followed by cotton terry hand cloths. Absorbers removes 90% of the standing water and the cotton towels removes the rest for a spot free finish.

New Way: California Water Blade and large blue microfiber towels. The CWB is a great water remover and time saver. Perfect for those large panels. Microfiber towels are super soft and absorbent. I usually use two for drying. I find this method works better than the old method above but both work fine.

canc · May 2002

How do you find the CWB to work with curved panels, ie: previous generation Ford Taurus? I'd imagine straight panels are great, but curves might pose a problem for the CWB.

protege_fan · May 2002

Does the CWB pose a threat to your paint if it (the paint) is not perfectly smooth to the touch (ie. washed, but not clayed)?

mrdetailer · May 2002

for straight surfaces only. I have to wash it before I use it as the silicon attracts dust. But it works great.

Wouldn't think it would harm an unclayed but otherwise clean surface. The clay bar removes embedded particulates. I have no actual experience since I clay my cars twice year.

bretfraz · May 2002

The CWB is flexible so it will follow the body contours somewhat. I use it on the large body panels like Mr. D does and try to get some of the water off the sides. I think it'll work fine on a Taurus' hood, roof, trunk, 1/4 panels.

I washed a Suburban recently and used the CWB. I can't imagine cleaning one of those big un's regularly and NOT having a CWB. What a chore!

rs_petty · May 2002

I thought you guys were anti-silicone. When you rub the CWB across the finish it will leave microscopic silicone particles just like the silicone wipers. Now if waxes and glazes with silicone are bad for finishes, won't this be about the same. Thoughts on theory please.

britton2 · May 2002

I also use the Absorber - works great - I have the CA Water Blade but I am hesitant to use it after reading a few horror stories about it scratching the paint - MrDetailer has the right idea about washing it first - any dirt or foreign material could cause a scratch - some people just use the CA Water Blade for the windows/windshield.

mpyne · May 2002

i was thinking of switching from what ive been using and try klasse. mainly because of what ive read about filling swirl marks. also anyone try sonax and if so what are your opinions?

koury · May 2002

I can't seem to recall the advice given here about two months ago about using 3M Hand Glaze. Should you clay after using the glaze, or before? Does it make a difference?

Thanks in advance

bretfraz · May 2002

mpyne - You can buy Klasse at the links I provided in post 1907. The link in post 1909 sells Klasse and Sonax. Only Sonax product I use is their wheel cleaner gel. It's a nice, mild duty cleaner.

koury - Claying should be done prior to IHG. The clay removes the surface contaminents and the IHG fills in swirls and light buff marks. After glaze ue your favorite carnauba wax.

mrdetailer · May 2002

make sure you clay every time before it's used. The contaminants on the surface can contribute to swirl marks.

As usual bret's experience has been similar to mine.

lonewolf6 · May 2002

I also used to use the Absorber..Now I just use a
MF towel and it works much better...

mpyne · May 2002

anyone here of it????

koury · May 2002

Thanks Bret and mrdetailer. What's your experience using IHG without a buffer? Am I setting myself up for alot of hard work?

canc · May 2002

I know this might be a bit off-topic, and so I apologize in advance, except that I can't find a proper thread about this.

Anyway, do any of you know of any good products to repair paint chips? I have a touch up paint pen right now, but it's still pretty obvious that there once was a chip there. I remember seeing a product that you apply on the paint, and it comes with small disc-shaped foam pads that you'd rub over the spot. It supposedly works wonders, but I don't remember the name. Any info would be appreciated.

adc100 · May 2002

Until one of the experts weighs in. I have used the IHG by hand and its not a whole lot of work. IMO its easier to use than the #7. I have not used a buffer to apply glaze so I can't speak for the final difference between hand and machine in terms of quality. I can say I am pleased with the results of my work.

mrdetailer · May 2002

It's been a long time for me, but I seem to remember that it does a good job. That's what it's made for. I did it for years and if the paint was in good condition to start out with it was fine to use by hand. Work in about 2 18 inch squares. Do one, then let it dry while you do the second then wipe off the first. Don't let it dry too long or it will really be a lot of work to get off.

I switched to a buffer when I purchased a red car with severe oxydation. I bought the buffer when removal of the oxydation by hand was uneven. I now always use a buffer to glaze because it's much faster. Still do most of my waxing by hand since I prefer pastes.

specialm · May 2002

What kind of buffers do you guys use? I have and old Sears orbital buffer that I bought years ago that I only used once. Wondering whether to dig it out.

fastdriver · May 2002

Canc-

Is this it?

http://www.langka.com/

fastdriver

bretfraz · May 2002

I've got one of them Sears buffers too. Got it as a gift many many years ago. Still works great.

Now I use a Porter Cable 7424. The King of all buffers is the DeWalt DW849.

bretfraz · May 2002

Here's a link to some info on Dri Wash:

http://www.autopia-carport.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9394&highlight=dri

canc · May 2002

YES!!!!!! I owe you one!

karl · May 2002

I have a Waxmaster (made by Chamberlain) orbital buffer that I got at Costco a couple of years ago. Costco now has them in nice plastic storage cases; mine came in a cardboard box...

I only use it to buff off wax/polish, not to apply it. I tried using it in applying w/p, but it seemed harder & messier than simply using one of those small round sponges that comes with wax.

-Karl

bretfraz · May 2002

I think your comment is one of the few I've ever heard about application/removal. Just about everyone I know does it the opposite way (apply with buffer and remove by hand).

Not arguing, just thought it was unusual to hear that. If it's workin for ya, great!

specialm · May 2002

bretfraz - Are the Porter Cable and the DeWalt buffers orbital?

Canc & fastdriver - That Langka product looks great! I've got to try it.

Regarding drying a car, I'm not happy with any chamois that I've tried yet. I'm tempted to give the Absorber a shot. Is it that good? or should I just buy a MF Towel?

protege_fan · May 2002

How big are these MF towels you guys are using? I've only seen MF towels that are the size of handkerchiefs! Any brand recommendations pr anything to look for/stay away from in certain brands or types?

beachnut · May 2002

The Porter Cable is orbital, though I don't think it's random-orbital. The DeWalt is not orbital and should probably only be used by a professional.

karl · May 2002

I thought the reason for using a power buffer was to make it easier to remove the wax, with less likelihood of introducing swirl marks, because of the orbital action instead of hand rubbing...

What's the reasoning behind using the buffer to apply wax/polish ? Is the theory that swirl marks are caused when applying w/p ?

We spend waaay too much time analyzing this...
:-)

-Karl

beachnut · May 2002

I have a Chamberlain, too. Had it for about 10 yrs. I did the same as you. My old Saab had lots of trim that loved to soak up any over-swirl from the buffer. I found applying by hand to be better in the long run. I'm getting ready to use Klasse for the first time on my ruby pearl Accord, which brings up a question for all - is it better to apply it by hand (like the website recommends) or are there any experiences using a buffer?

bretfraz · May 2002

The Porter Cable 7424 I own is a random orbital machine. The DeWalt DW849 is a rotary (non-orbital) and, as beachnut said, should be used only by pros or experienced folks.

For some paint conditions only a rotary will restore the gloss and remove scratches and oxidation. As good as the Porter Cable 7424 is, it's not powerful enough to do the serious jobs. But for serious enthusiasts who are starting with a new or nearly new car, the random orbital machines are terrific. They are a huge time and muscle saver and can apply products much more evenly and thinly. That's the big advantages of using buffers to apply products as opposed to applying by hand. If you do it right then hand removal is a piece of cake. And the results are superior to hand application/removal. Saves time; saves effort; saves product; better results; removes flaws that cannot be done by hand - - buffers are terrific tools if used correctly.

tntitan · May 2002

I have been waiting for weeks (it has rained a lot here) and finally got the time to detail my emerald green 2000 Accord.

1. Washed with Palmolive (I don't think there was much wax on the car to start with). I used the Absorber to dry initially and followed up with MF towel. I am not impressed with the Absorber and plan to order the Big Blue Towel - even though they are expensive.

2. Clayed my first car ever with the Erazer Clay Bar and Erazer lubricant. This was so easy I was shocked. Did the whole car in 30 minutes and it was almost effortless. My wife liked the way it made the garage smell (may have been coconut?)

3. Applied the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze by hand. This polish really gave a tremendous shine and was not too difficult but it did take me a full hour to apply and remove. I believe the next time I will use the machine to apply - mainly because it should apply it more evenly. I did it by hand because I was afraid it would make a mess my first time.

4. Waxed with Collonite Marquis De'Elegance. It was a little cool (only about 55 degrees) and the wax was a little hard but it went on and off very easily. It took me about an hour but I could have done it quicker if the old back had not started wearing down on me. This wax was not cheap but I hardly used any - it looks like it will wax my car at least 20 times.

The whole process took about 4 hours with a couple of breaks in between steps. It is definitely a great way to get to know all of the little nicks, dings, etc. I plan to wash and apply another coat of wax next weekend.

The car looks great. It is not supposed to rain for at least a week. I will report from time to time on my results over the next few months. I enjoyed doing it and look forward to enjoying my car a little more now.

adc100 · May 2002

I would suggest you use the Collinite Fleetwax over the MDE. MDE is pretty pricy and does not protect as well as the Fleetwax. Basically it(MDE) has some fragrence and 24% more Carnuba to allow easier removal. The Fleetwax and 476S (Permanent Wax) are the solid form of the 845 (Insulator Wax). The Fleetwax is identical to the 885 except its lots cheaper. Its safe for clearcoat. Stay away from the SS126 (Saphire Wax) and the 870 (Liquid Fleetwax)-they are not safe for clearcoat.

Later,
Al

specialm · May 2002

Thanks for the insights. I've seen what damage a high speed buffer can do and I don't even want to go near one, LOL! I'm gonna dig my Sears orbital out and give it a whirl.

mschukar · May 2002

The whole process took about 4 hours

This is precisely why I used Klasse All-In-One. As an avid cyclist with a 2 year old daughter, nice days are far too valuable to spend on a car.

-murray

tntitan · May 2002

I am an obsessed golfer but I do like to take care of my car as well. Still got the grass cut and a round of golf in the same day so it was not that big of a deal. I am an old (48) fart with no children so I make time to do the things I want to do. I used to take my car to Jiffy Lube to save 15 minutes and pay mechanics to have routine maintenance done on my car but have discovered over the years that it is more time efficient and cost effective in the long run to do these things myself.

I routinely spend an hour to wash and detail my car every week and this 4 hour process will probably be only once - maybe twice a year. In my mind a small sacrifice to keep my car looking brand new. However, I understand your position and that is exactly why they make all-in-one products. Hey! - whatever floats your boat.

mschukar · May 2002

I didn't mean to belittle your priorities, on the contrary, I was trying to promote the benefits of Klasse. From the reviews and comments I've read, it will do nearly as good of a job as Zaino, but only take an hour or so of your time twice a year. I guess I won't know for sure for a couple more years.

I enjoy working on my car, lawn, bike, etc., but found out a 2 year old changes all of those priorities in a positive way :-)

-murray

pjyoung · May 2002

Wait til the two year old is old enough to "help" wash the car...

tntitan · May 2002

It has only been 5 days since I polished and waxed the emerald green 2000 Accord SE but I have got to tell you that I am extremely pleased with the Erazer Clay Bar, 3M IHG, and Collonite 915 wax. I have had a lot of compliments from people at work and other places. This morning a guy I work with said he was ashamed to park next to me. He just waxed his brand new Jeep Liberty about 2 weeks ago and said it looks like [non-permissible content removed] compared to mine. My secretary wondered how I could have a car that long without getting a single scratch. It has some but the car is so smoooth from the claying and has such a "deep" looking color that it looks better than a brand new car. Thanks to all of the expert fanatics that passed on so much great advice here.

alan81 · May 2002

You cannot compare store bought waxes to an item like Collonite or Blackfire or products you buy on the web.Collonite is a great wax that will give you a shine the you wont believe but it is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to put on and take off.

beachnut · May 2002

You guys are really excited about this topic - can't believe the TOU's aren't flooding your inbox tho! Still waiting for my Klasse. Must be on the proverbial *slow boat*.

beachnut · May 2002

The chenille mitts I bought at Wallyworld do not say "100% Cotton" anywhere, no tag, or on the packing label. They're made by Clean-Rite Products and are marketed under the name "The Detailer's Choice". Are these worth keeping or should I do a return? They seem very soft, but I assume they're synthetic. Compared to the sponges I was using, I'm sure they're an improvement.

tntitan · May 2002

I really did not think the Collinite wax was very difficult to apply using an applicator sponge or remove using cotton detail cloth. The guy at DCCarcare (where I ordered mine online) was very helpful. He suggested doing a very small area (like 18 sq inches) at a time, use it very sparingly, and quickly remove the wax. This method really worked quite easily. Quite frankly the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze was more work than the Collinite wax. Both were worth the effort IMHO.

Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

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