Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)
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Either Eagle One 20/20 or Stoners will work fine on tinted windows--no ammonia in either one.
But if you need a wheel cleaner that won't harm clear coat/ chrome/ polished finish wheels, try putting some Simple Green citrus degreaser in a spray bottle, spray it all over your wheels, wait a few minutes, scrub it in (sponge), then hose it off. This has worked well for me when I've needed it (cleaning old wheels, not my cars).
-Karl
Initial impressions: I think this is a polymer wax. Went on easily, dried quickly, and buffs off very easily. A little smudging, so it took some extra buffing. But it gave a really nice, deep, wet-look shine -- reminded me of the Eagle One Wet Polish + Wax that I've used before.
I like polymer waxes because they seem to be the easiest to apply & remove, and last a decent time. The worst wax I've used has been carnauba paste wax (Meguiar's, I think), which was difficult to apply, took f o r e v e r to dry, then took even longer to remove. And, to add insult to injury, it didn't last long at all.
I haven't tried Zymol, but Costco here carries it ($14 - 2 bottles), and when I buy the next round of wax I'll probably give it a shot.
-Karl
Basically, Klasse came in second in shine to Zaino, but the ease of application makes it a no brainer for me; I'm not going to spend most of my Saturday waxing my car.
I can't give you any long term results, but the easy application means I will probably keep it up longer and more frequently than other polishes/waxes. This should result in better long term shine for me.
I bought mine at: http://properautocare.com/kla-16.html They included an applicator pad and I bought a set of 3 microfiber towels as well.
-murray
I'm sure you saw this during your 1900 post trek, but the two people I think know all about Klasse are:
http://www.tacscar.com
http://www.yosteve.com
Two Klasse experts without question. If you buy your Klasse from them they'll give you all the little tips and tricks to make it work beautifully.
Regards,
OldStyle
Many folks also swear by the "Big Blue Towel" that Classic Motoring Accessories sells. You can check it out at http://www.properautocare.com.
---joe
Old Way: Absorber followed by cotton terry hand cloths. Absorbers removes 90% of the standing water and the cotton towels removes the rest for a spot free finish.
New Way: California Water Blade and large blue microfiber towels. The CWB is a great water remover and time saver. Perfect for those large panels. Microfiber towels are super soft and absorbent. I usually use two for drying. I find this method works better than the old method above but both work fine.
Wouldn't think it would harm an unclayed but otherwise clean surface. The clay bar removes embedded particulates. I have no actual experience since I clay my cars twice year.
I washed a Suburban recently and used the CWB. I can't imagine cleaning one of those big un's regularly and NOT having a CWB. What a chore!
Thanks in advance
koury - Claying should be done prior to IHG. The clay removes the surface contaminents and the IHG fills in swirls and light buff marks. After glaze ue your favorite carnauba wax.
As usual bret's experience has been similar to mine.
MF towel and it works much better...
Anyway, do any of you know of any good products to repair paint chips? I have a touch up paint pen right now, but it's still pretty obvious that there once was a chip there. I remember seeing a product that you apply on the paint, and it comes with small disc-shaped foam pads that you'd rub over the spot. It supposedly works wonders, but I don't remember the name. Any info would be appreciated.
I switched to a buffer when I purchased a red car with severe oxydation. I bought the buffer when removal of the oxydation by hand was uneven. I now always use a buffer to glaze because it's much faster. Still do most of my waxing by hand since I prefer pastes.
Is this it?
http://www.langka.com/
fastdriver
Now I use a Porter Cable 7424. The King of all buffers is the DeWalt DW849.
http://www.autopia-carport.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9394&highlight=dri
I only use it to buff off wax/polish, not to apply it. I tried using it in applying w/p, but it seemed harder & messier than simply using one of those small round sponges that comes with wax.
-Karl
Not arguing, just thought it was unusual to hear that. If it's workin for ya, great!
Canc & fastdriver - That Langka product looks great! I've got to try it.
Regarding drying a car, I'm not happy with any chamois that I've tried yet. I'm tempted to give the Absorber a shot. Is it that good? or should I just buy a MF Towel?
What's the reasoning behind using the buffer to apply wax/polish ? Is the theory that swirl marks are caused when applying w/p ?
We spend waaay too much time analyzing this...
:-)
-Karl
For some paint conditions only a rotary will restore the gloss and remove scratches and oxidation. As good as the Porter Cable 7424 is, it's not powerful enough to do the serious jobs. But for serious enthusiasts who are starting with a new or nearly new car, the random orbital machines are terrific. They are a huge time and muscle saver and can apply products much more evenly and thinly. That's the big advantages of using buffers to apply products as opposed to applying by hand. If you do it right then hand removal is a piece of cake. And the results are superior to hand application/removal. Saves time; saves effort; saves product; better results; removes flaws that cannot be done by hand - - buffers are terrific tools if used correctly.
1. Washed with Palmolive (I don't think there was much wax on the car to start with). I used the Absorber to dry initially and followed up with MF towel. I am not impressed with the Absorber and plan to order the Big Blue Towel - even though they are expensive.
2. Clayed my first car ever with the Erazer Clay Bar and Erazer lubricant. This was so easy I was shocked. Did the whole car in 30 minutes and it was almost effortless. My wife liked the way it made the garage smell (may have been coconut?)
3. Applied the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze by hand. This polish really gave a tremendous shine and was not too difficult but it did take me a full hour to apply and remove. I believe the next time I will use the machine to apply - mainly because it should apply it more evenly. I did it by hand because I was afraid it would make a mess my first time.
4. Waxed with Collonite Marquis De'Elegance. It was a little cool (only about 55 degrees) and the wax was a little hard but it went on and off very easily. It took me about an hour but I could have done it quicker if the old back had not started wearing down on me. This wax was not cheap but I hardly used any - it looks like it will wax my car at least 20 times.
The whole process took about 4 hours with a couple of breaks in between steps. It is definitely a great way to get to know all of the little nicks, dings, etc. I plan to wash and apply another coat of wax next weekend.
The car looks great. It is not supposed to rain for at least a week. I will report from time to time on my results over the next few months. I enjoyed doing it and look forward to enjoying my car a little more now.
Later,
Al
This is precisely why I used Klasse All-In-One. As an avid cyclist with a 2 year old daughter, nice days are far too valuable to spend on a car.
-murray
I routinely spend an hour to wash and detail my car every week and this 4 hour process will probably be only once - maybe twice a year. In my mind a small sacrifice to keep my car looking brand new. However, I understand your position and that is exactly why they make all-in-one products. Hey! - whatever floats your boat.
I enjoy working on my car, lawn, bike, etc., but found out a 2 year old changes all of those priorities in a positive way :-)
-murray