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Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)
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I now use the 100% cotton chenille mitts from NAPA. Not quite as fluffy and soft as the old Vikings but still pretty good.
I think if you're coming from a sponge or old poly sheep fuzzy thing, the cotton blend chenille mitts are fine. If you can easily find 100% cotton mitts then I recommend that. But use the softest mitt you can find.
I am curious about one thing- I use the Collinite Fleetwax which has about 25% less than their "Marque". They do this to make removal easier. Strange? More carnuba-easier removal?
I used terrycloth bonnets for application only. Product removal was always done by hand.
You might want to stock up on bonnets; they're one of those things you can never have enough of.
Zaino is actually a very good wax, but I personally don't think it's drastically better than Collinite, Gold Class, or other premium waxes out there. On the good side though, I believe Zaino doesn't have any solvent cleaners in its formula whereas my GC or Collinite does.
What really pushed me away drastically from Zaino is the customer testimonial pictures on their website. At least a few of them are, um, "enhanced", with Photoshop filters. That's just cheap.
Anyway, back to the topic. Does anyone here use Meguiar's Professional vs. the Gold Class?
I myself switched to Z more than two years ago, and I'm convinced it's better than anything I've ever used in 50 years of "waxing" cars (Oops! I'm showing my age). But I also respect the opinions and preferences of others. If the product someone else is using produces the desired results, so be it!
One last comment -- Z really isn't unduly expensive. Perhaps the only problem Z users experience is that they try to apply too much. A little bit of the product goes a loooooong way!
I really like their professional vinyl preservative and cleaner. I believe it is #46. When I run out of the current bottle I will definitely buy it again. It is the best combination cleaner preservative. But on the dash I use nothing but Aerospace 303 because of it's extra UV protection, and low shine.
#7 Show Car Glaze is excellent. It doesn't allow to overuse it since the clay used in the abrasive breaks down after a while. Shine is excellent. With more experience, I am leaning to Meguiar's Imperial Hand Glaze, or Perfect-It Machine glaze and swirl remover. I have no problem recommending it to anyone, and it is easily purchased at any auto store here.
The Professional Quick Detailer is more expensive than the red bottle, but is an excellent product. It can be used as a cleanup just before painting as well. Great shine. When I run out of my other quick detailers I'm going to order a gallon.
So while I don't use Meguiar's exclusively, I really like their products as a whole.
Thanks guys!
http://www.properautocare.com/micwhatbigde.html
Let's just say this "issue" was a contentious one before I came here, about 2 years ago. Lots and lots and lots of posts have been deleted over that time. I believe some folks have been banned from Town Hall for being a "participant". As you can imagine, it's not been pretty. But it has mellowed quite a bit in recent times and I'm happy to see it stay that way.
If you just gots to know you can always e-mail me and we can discuss offline. But it's best for all involved that we don't discuss the forbidden topic here.
A sealer and glaze product won't last long without the protection of wax.
I'm not sure about the paint breathing...but IMO the wax will only serve to protect your paint, not harm it (assuming you apply it properly of course).
Waxes expand and and contract with temperature change at least as much as the paint coats do. I have a 15 year old car that looks better than new. Most cars of that model and year are faded and peeling, and rusty. Do the clay bar, glaze and wax and you won't regret it.
But I did use the Mother's 3 step "Ultimate" wax system with good results this past weekend. Looked pretty amazing, except for the swirls.
I just puchased Meguiar's Gold Class car wash (I was using Armor-all car wash). Is the Meguiar's worth the extra cost or should I just stick with the Armor-all car wash?
I also puchased the Meguiar's Cleaner Wax. Is this any good? I liked the fact that it seemed easy to put on the car and you could do the whole car at once, not just a small section at a time. Does the wax last a long time? How often should I wax the car?
What do you apply the wax with? I have applicator pads from Target that are terry covered sponges. Are these safe to use? It doesn't say if they are all cotton. It's probably a blend. It says they are soft and lint free.
I used Meguiar's cleaner wax once. There was a lot of residue. I don't use it anymore. It's not as good as a 3-step system or just a straight carnauba wax and the cleaner wax is slightly abrasive.
Meguiar's cleaner wax probably won't last any longer than 3-4 months under good conditions. Note, you can't layer the cleaner wax as it will clean off the previous layer. It's a good quick wax if that's what you're after, but just be aware that there are better products out there....of course for more money too.
I think the Armor-all car wash may strip off any wax that you have on the car. I know that I used the Armor-all wash and it seemed as though I needed to re-wax after using it (ie. water didn't bead up as well anymore). The Mother's California Gold wash that I use says that it does not strip wax and I believe your new Meguiar's wash is the same. I think it's worth the extra money if it makes you happy.
Question: Is glaze aka; SMR? Or are they different products? I've heard mention of that being used.
I do want to try a wax on the newly painted car as well. It was actually repainted 2 years ago but hasn't seen much use and has been garaged. So, the paint is definately cured. Just trying to iron out the swirls issue now. Thanks!
SMR (Swirl Mark Remover) is actually abrasive and will remove the swirl marks.
A glaze will fill in the swirl marks, making them less noticeable, but will not actually remove them.
P.S. I am have a black car, so I am going for protection over shine.
You might want to do a little side-by-side comparo to see if you need/want a coat of #7 prior to #26. Just do your normal wash and dry, focus on one panel (like the hood or trunk lid) and apply #26 to a small area. Do the #7/#26 combo on another small area right next to the #26 only section and evaluate results. Compare to the unwaxed areas too. That way you get a good idea of what kind of work needs to be done. And you didn't do the whole car to find out ;-)
Let us know how it goes for you.
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I have found the Gold Class Car wash to clean well and leave a brillant shine. However, I would also finish using the Armor all.
I also puchased the Meguiar's Cleaner Wax. Is this any good? I liked the fact that it seemed easy to put on the car and you could do the whole car at once, not just a small section at a time. Does the wax last a long time? How often should I wax the car?
I hate cleaner waxes. While they look great immediately after finishine, they don't hold a top shine and protect well for longer than 6-8 weeks. If you want to redo it that often it will work great. I've been able to use the #7 show car glaze, and #26 Hard Yellow Wax (2 coats a week apart) and it's lasted 4-6 months depending on the conditions. At least twice as long as any cleaner wax. 3M Perfect_It show Car wax Paste lasts 6 months even in winter.
What do you apply the wax with? I have applicator pads from Target that are terry covered sponges.
If it's made for auto applications it will be terry, don't worry.
The Meguiar's Gold Class wax has a foam sponge applicator (NO terry covering). Is that ok to use? How long does this wax last versus the #26?
Sorry for so many questions!
I used Glaze and Wax by hand for years. It's a bit more work, but fine. Glaze application is more even and quicker but you can go a very good job if you work in about 18 inch squares. I use paste waxes so they are always applied and removed by hand anyway. I use buffers only for swirl remover, and glaze application. I always remove by hand.
A glaze, together with a clay bar are the real secrets to adding depth to the finish. #26 Hard Yellow Wax can be used by itself, and I do that quite often when needed. I only use the Glaze in spring and fall. Every three months I do a refresher coat if the weather permits. While not technically necessary it keeps the shine in top condition.
Dawn, or other dish washing detergents are used when you want to take off old waxes. If it's new I would recommend a car wash that doesn't have any waxes in it like Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash.
The foam applicators are fine and easier to clean up than the terry applicators. Just make sure to keep that seam around the edges from touching the paint surface.
I'm going to add one more thing. After you wash, run your hand over the surface, especially the hood, roof and trunk. If it feels the slightest bit rough then do the clay bar procedure. New cars quite often have dust from the freight trains that contains microscopic iron filings. These are murder on the clear coat if not removed, and can scratch your car finish. Dealers quite often don't do it since it is labor intensive. I consider this just as important as glazing and waxing. Also done twice a year.
If you do all three you will love the clarity and depth of shine, and it will last longer, and be less work in the long run.
How long does #26 last compared to Gold Class wax? Do you need to strip with Dawn before each time you wax?
What does the glaze do? If I glaze do I need to strip with Dawn? Not sure what the clay bar procedure is.
Thanks for all the info!
I've found #26 Paste to last about twice as long as Gold Class if the car has been glazed every 6 months and two coats are applied a week apart. I've actually gone as long as 7 full months last summer, and 5 in the winter and still had a great finish. I recommend a glaze/wax spring and fall. I have not found it necessary to use glaze more often than that. I do a refresher coat 3 months later of #26 for increased protection and beauty.
I only use dish washing liquid if I want to help strip off existing wax before glazing. Never otherwise. I use Gold Class Auto Shampoo or some comparable brand at other times.
The glaze has a few buffers (#7 uses a clay) that will remove invisible surface contamination, but not hard enough to actively remove scratches. It also has nourishing oils that deepen the shine. If you want to keep scratches off as much as possible, never use a glaze unless you have used a clay bar first. I've used this technique on my Dad's Dark Green Taurus and it doesn't have swirl marks at all.
Glazing also uses much less wax. My current can of #26 has lasted through at least 50 coats. Much more than the expected 15 applications.
Clay Bar -- Check back about 8 weeks ago on this forum under my name. I did a detailed explanation then. Roughly you buy a kit that has a quick detailer with a clay bar. Meguiar's was the least expensive. Wash the car with Dawn, et. al. Dry the car. Break the Clay Bar in half. Flatten it into a pancake. Work in about 18 inch squares. Liberally spray the quick detailer on the surface of the car and the clay bar itself. Spray again if you feel the slightest resistance. Clay stuck on the surface takes a lot of rubbing to get off. Use both circular and horizontal and vertical motions over the area to completely cover all sections of the surface. Only light pressure is needed. Wipe with a 100% cotton terry towel. Sam's Club has some small ones that are inexpensive but good. Check the surface of the clay. If it's dirty fold the clay into itself until a clean surface appears again. Repeat if needed or move on to the next section. When done the surface should be as smooth as a glass mirror to the touch.
I really Like using Eraser and Meguiar's clay. Mother's also is good, but in my area was expensive.
With practice it can be done in 30-45 minutes on most vehicles.
Hope this helps.
I did not pay $600 for the Toyoguard (BS?)protection pkg- I got a car without this pkg.
The reason to use Dawn (or comparable) is to strip/remove all waxes and polishes from the paint prior to fresh detailing. Dawn is typically suggested as its well-known to be a strong alkaline (pH of 9.1) and it has grease-cutting agents in it to remove stubborn road film and grime. It's not something to be used frequently as an strong alkaline product will remove plasticizers from clearcoats and dull them over time. But for a once or twice a year full detail, it works well.
Clay bars remove surface contaminents from your paint. It's another important prep step. Mr. D outlined some of the reasons; I'm sure you dug up his post on claying and know how to do it.
I think the clay Mr. D is referring to in #7 is kaolin clay. There's just enough in #7 to act as a very mild polish. But it's not designed to do the same thing as detailing clay; they just share the same name.