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Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)
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Thanks for the tip Mr.D!
Now I'll eliminate step 3 in the aforementioned list and probably step 4 as we did this just a couple of months ago.
My next challenges are swirl marks! I have some really faint ones that can only be seen under bright sunlight, but I know they are there.
I don't have a PC so I have to stick to hand application.
In terms of using Meguiar's SMR 2.0, how do I know it's 2.0? I saw some Meguiar's SMR, but I wasn't sure if it was 2.0 so I didn't buy it.
Again...thanks soooooo much!!
Says so right on the bottle.
http://www.properautocare.com/megsno9swirr.html
-David
I would stop using the terry cloth towels and switch to micro-fiber. Once you use them, you won't want to use anything else! My wife even asked me buy her some for washing her face!
And when used on the car they are beyond compare. Where cotton towels would streak, the microfiber towels do not.
Thumbs up for Microfiber
I second your thanks to all who participate here. It's a great resource.
-David
Wal-mart has some...in the US, IIRC, they are made by Nic Sand. I'm sure you can probably get some at Autozone or Pepboys.
There are many places that you can order them online.
Try this site for a detailed explanation on Microfiber:
http://www.properautocare.com/micwhatbigde.html
I put one coat of Blackfire polish on and two coats of protectant in less than 90 minutes by hand. This stuff is pretty much idiot proof. Apply thinly, wait 30 seconds, buff and move to next section. No elbow grease required. It goes on easily and buffs off like your cleaning a window. No time required between polish and protectant or for the next layer of protectant. It was 93 degrees and extremely humid and I never saw the first bit of haze or problem. This is exactly what I am looking for. By the way did I mention that it looks fantastic. If this stuff only lasted 3 months I would still love it since it is so easy but if it lasts six or more months as advertised - then I guess I can throw the other stuff out.
Spent over an hour on the leather interior. My Mom was more impressed with the 303 on the leather and vinyl than anything else. Having been in the garage the interior was in good shape and the 303 really made it look super.
I forgot to mention that the car has black trim all the way around as door guard and the blackfire wiped right off with no residue. Just to experiment I left some on one spot and when I detailed the trim with the 303 it disappeared. I am a really big fan of 303 because it it so versatile. Also used it to coat all of the door and trunk seals.
It was a long day but worth it for a well deserving mother. She said if it looked rainy tomorrow she would have to get someone to pick her up and take her to church. She may be converted as a detail fanatic.
Respectfully,
Larry
On my own vehicles I did a top coat on 2 cars to test the differences in behavior of the three types. I also couldn't wait to see if the P21S lives up to its reputation. On the the gray Dodge I put on 3M Perfect-It as a final coat. On the white Subaru I did half of the hood and roof with Meguiars #26 and P21S. Now this is not a virginal test. I'll probably do a more complete test next summer. Both cars have already been glazed with 3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze, and then a base coat of 3M Perfect-It Show Car Wax.
On the white car half of the topcoat was Meguiars and half P21S on the hood and roof. The gray car has just 3M Perfect-It as a control. On Tuesday I'm going to do the half and half treatment on the roof and trunk of the blaze red Mazda that is in the sun constantly at my wife's work.
Here are my initial impressions about using each wax in the topcoat stage. A summary followed by detailed impressions.
Ease of application:
Meguiars #26 Hard Yellow Wax wi Carnauba -- Medium.
3M Perfect-It Show Car Paste Wax -- Easy
P21S Carnauba Wax - Very Easy (considering only the wax not the applicator)
Removal as per instructions:
Meguiars #26 -- Medium.
3M Perfect-It Paste Wax -- Easy
P21S - Very Easy
Removal if left too long:
Meguiars #26 -- Somewhat Firm.
3M Perfect-It Paste Wax -- Firm
P21S - Firm
Amount of Residue
Meguiars #26 -- Some.
3M Perfect-It Paste Wax -- Light
P21S - Light
Initial Depth of Shine (Jetting or wet look)
Meguiars #26 -- Very Good.
3M Perfect-It Paste Wax -- Very Good
P21S - Very Good.
I have not been able to tell a significant difference yet.
Clarity of Shine (determined by being able to see branches leaves and limbs and garage roof gable as reflected off the surface by color and sharpness of image)
Meguiars #26 -- Very Good
3M Perfect-It Paste Wax -- Very Good -- Excellent
P21S - Excellent. The image appeared slightly sharper on the P21S sections.
Meguiars #26 Hard Yellow Wax with Carnauba. This venerable wax is the least expensive. 11.5 ounces for $8.98. It came with a large foam applicator. The new can is plastic, and twice as high as the prior tin can. It felt like reaching into a deep well when trying to resupply the applicator. I called Meguiars and they indicated that they are currently redesigning the container. I preferred the older metal one. This was a little easier to fill the applicator than 3M, but was the hardest to apply on the paint surface. Not that it was difficult, just had more resistence. It was the hardest generally to wipe off. But ironically, it was very forgiving. I could apply and remove the wax to the largest area of any of them. Removal within a minute or 2 had more drag, but didn't get too hard if it went a little too long. One thing I do like about this wax is that in a few weeks I can touch the surface and know whether it is still present or not.
3M Perfect-It Show Car Wax cost $14.95 for my last 11.5 ounce can. The sturdy version only comes in paste. It came in a metal tin, and had no enclosed applicator. I used a clean Meguiars foam pad taken directly from the package. This is an extremely hard wax in the can, but was easier applying to the surface than Meguiars. It had to be applied in smaller areas before it would get excessively hard. It worked best in about a 3 foot area where Meguiars would allow at least 4 square feet. Removal was easy if caught correctly but based on past experience is a real beast if allowed to dry too hard. Never apply this wax in the sun. Being a harder wax, less is required to apply a good coat and may be the most economical of all. This is the only wax I use when it is not one of my vehicles. I really like it.
P21S Paste Wax is by far the most expensive of the 3 waxes. $24.95 for 6.5 ounces. So it costs roughly twice as much for half the quantity. It was in a taller narrower plastic can. It was supplied with an open foam applicator that frankly appeared cheap. It is easy to remove out of the jar and applies like butter. But spreading the wax was frustrating due to the pi__ poor applicator (sorry). I'm switching to Meguiars or a microfiber one as soon as there is enough room in the jar to allow space. This has to be removed when a light haze appears. If you wait too long it requires hard rubbing to remove. I imagine that this would also be difficult to remove if sun baked. Used properly, it is very easy. I found that in my dry atmosphere that I could do no more than a 2 X 2 foot area before it got too dry. A small aside, this wax can slide right out of the container, so make sure it's flat at all times. Not a problem with any of the other waxes. The question to me is not whether it's good, but whether it merits the drastic increase in price.
IN CONCLUSION, not one of the products was bad. Differences in initial appearance are frankly so slight that if they were put on separate cars no one could tell the difference unless they were an expert. I can see why all three waxes have won concours competitions. The initial impression of all of them is good.
We'll see how it holds up over the hot summer.
Let me ask you a few questions ...at what point do you feel like it's time for a re-app of Klasse? Do you notice less shine or less water beading? Or do you just go by a time schedule? What type of buffer are you using? I just used Klasse for the first time 3 weeks ago on my Accord ... the MPV is next!
I feel the Klasse acts as an elastic acrylic protective paint sealant. So, my final step (I know it is overkill!!) is a coat of Blitz Wax every 3 months or so. Here is the pay back. The Klasse is still beading and protecting after almost 8 months. The Blitz adds an extra depth of shine to my Emerald Mica paint work and I'm damn proud of both my PRO-ES's.
I have a 9 inch Craftman Orbital Buffer which I obtained before I started Klasse. I have used it to apply and remove the Blitz Wax, but honestly I use it less and less. PLEASE DON'T TELL MY WIFE, SHE WOULD BE HISSED. She gave it to me for Father's Day last year! Cripes, I get it out every time I detail my Mazda's and put it away later, lol! Scott how do you like your 2001 Mazda MPV?
-Larry
I went to a local car show this weekend. And one that looked particularly good had Klasse as a base coat (both All in one and Sealant Glaze), Blitz for the wet look depth, and Sovereign for the highest shine. Carnaubas apparently repel dust much better.
I don't see much talk here about chamois'. Are they passe'? Do they cause any problems when used on a detailed finish, whether wax or glaze? I know when they're new they seem to have a lot of oil in them, tho I'm not sure what type. Of course, there's the constant wringing out and just plain hard to use (IMO) problems. Any thoughts?
I just washed my Accord for the first time in three weeks! Our rainy season prevents a lot of detailing over the summer, but we got a nice day in Sunday, so I washed. This was the first wash since applying Klasse. I used a product called Westley's, which I believe is made by Blue Coral. It stated that it was safe for detailing finishes (wouldn't strip, etc.), but when it rained the next day, I noticed a marked decrease in the water beading. Did the Westley's do this, or is it just normal for Klasse?
Does anyone notice that Rain-X makes your wiper blades skip and jump like there's resistance? I've actually noticed this for several years. I always keep fresh Bosch's on my cars, but they don't ever seem to work as well after Rain-X.
Phew! Ok, enough for now! BTW, Larry, I like our MPV just fine, but I think I'm gonna get a major workout if I don't use a buffer ;-(
I now dab with a 100% cotton towel and then finish with a microfiber towel. No lint, no streaks
I'm sure the Pinnacle, P21S and other primo shampoos will do a great job, but at a price.
If we are talking about the seat backs, my guess is that they are actually vinyl. On most cars the only leather is on the seating surface. All other trim on seats is vinyl. So you might want to try one of the more aggressive cleaners in your arsenal. Test it for color-fastness, of course.
One little tool I use when cleaning leather is a small stiff bristle brush. I got one at Target for $1.99 and it really gets the leather clean. Most people think you need to be extra gentle while cleaning leather but the truth is you can be somewhat aggressive. I spray on the cleaner, let it setup for a few seconds, scrub like a maniac, then wipe off the residue with clean towels.
One special hint: After wiping off the residue, take some wet paper towels and wipe the seats again. You need to remove all the cleaner from the seats or it will eat thru the clearcoat protecting the leather and dry out the leather. The first wipe of the residue does not remove all the cleaner so take your time and get it all off.
Happy scrubbing!! :-)
I also used P21S and Meguiars on another topcoat test for my Mazda. Opinion still holds. Both are good waxes, but images are a tiny bit cleaner on the P21S side. No difference in depth and color.
As always, time will tell. I'm interested to see the reaction after some time in the sun has heated up the wax on that dark red finish.
This vehicle is garage kept and washed and waxed on a regular basis. These "spots" annoy me. Can anyone offer advice. Thanks in advance for your help.
I've used Rubbing Alcohol to remove tree sap. It will also remove any wax/sealer so you will need to wash and reapply your favorite stuff.
Try it in an inconspicous location before applying it on your paint just to make sure it doesn't affect the paint - it shouldn't but just to be safe.
YMMV.
This wax is called S100 and sells FOR $10.00 LESS WHEN IT IS THE IDENTICAL WAX. It is sold as a motorcycle wax, but is in the same can, and has exactly the same description for what it does, and is made by the same company.
I bought a can of P21S for 24.95, and S100 Sells for $14.95.
Guess what I'll buy next time if I do. Still not convinced it beats 3M Perfect-It or Meguiars. Time will tell.
In the meantime, why not buy a bottle and give it a spin?
paint is dual and not shiney.What do you guys recomend to bring the shine back? I still have left over zymol cleaner wax still left in a bottle. Is this war good?THANKS
I also picked up a bottle of Eagle-1 "A2Z" wheel cleaner. The ZTS wheels are 16", multi-spoke and painted silver (factory paint). Until last night with the Eagle-1 cleaner, I never thought I'd get the wheels really clean. I followed the directions completely and I couldn't believe how nice the wheels looked when finished. Eagle-1 has a new, enthusiastic customer!
kirbstoy: I have not tried Eagle One's wheel cleaner but am a big fan of their car wash too - you can get alot of helpful tips from their website too (eagleone.com)
I pretty much agree with what others have said here:
I find that the Klasse All-In-One gives a nice look and is very easy to apply. It won't do anything to hide swirl marks, if that's a concern.
I also agree that you need to put the sealer-glaze on for a really sharp shine. I subjectively think that the shine is different than a wax shine - more translucent - and thus with less depth than a wax shine, which seems visually 'softer' somehow. Klasse is definitely an acrylic shine.
My wife's car is garaged at home and at work. On her car the shine lasts very well.. I have redone both cars after 6 months so I can't speak beyond that point. No sign of any deterioration in gloss or protection. My car, which sits outdoors while I'm at work was good for about 6 months. There are two indicators I use - bead size and shape and how much dirt sticks to the car after a rain.
The sealer-glaze is a REAL pain to apply. "Thin coats" means THIN. It's not a job for a man in a hurry and not a job when the weather is too hot. Still, the look is very nice and it lasts long enough to be worth the work.
Just my humble opinion.
I also have a question: If I want to strip the Klasse off to really prep the paint before rewaxing, how do I strip it? Will Dawn take off Acrylics as well as waxes?
Thanks