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Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

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Comments

  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Sigh...tough staying PC (<---Not Proter Cable, but politically correct) in cyberspace! Oh well, c'est la vie!

    Thanks for the tip Mr.D!

    Now I'll eliminate step 3 in the aforementioned list and probably step 4 as we did this just a couple of months ago.

    My next challenges are swirl marks! I have some really faint ones that can only be seen under bright sunlight, but I know they are there.

    I don't have a PC so I have to stick to hand application.

    In terms of using Meguiar's SMR 2.0, how do I know it's 2.0? I saw some Meguiar's SMR, but I wasn't sure if it was 2.0 so I didn't buy it.

    Again...thanks soooooo much!!
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    In terms of using Meguiar's SMR 2.0, how do I know it's 2.0? I saw some Meguiar's SMR, but I wasn't sure if it was 2.0 so I didn't buy it.


    Says so right on the bottle.

    http://www.properautocare.com/megsno9swirr.html

  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Hhahaahahah! Ok....I checked Meguiar's website and I couldn't find 2.0 on there, so I asked here. Should have checked that site you gave first. Oh well...Thanks Bret :D
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    Thanks for all the helpful information on machine buffing. One more question: the clear coat on my Snug Top seems especially soft; Swirls are created by rubbing with a dry cotton terry. And although the only way to view it is from a ladder, still, is there any special treatment to correct?

    -David
  • beachnutbeachnut Member Posts: 291
    hehe! Well, I wouldn't put myself in the same league as mrdetailer or bretfraz (see accolades above ;-)), but if I can help, I try ....I'm sure those guy's fingers get tired after a while! While I'm not really a newbie to auto detailing per se, I am a recent disciple of the latest, and best, ways to perform this task, all of which I've learned about here in this forum. Thanks to all who participate!

    I would stop using the terry cloth towels and switch to micro-fiber. Once you use them, you won't want to use anything else! My wife even asked me buy her some for washing her face!
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    I'm totally sold on Microfiber. They are not only great for the car, but great for use around the house. Dusting, cleaning glass and glasses, etc., etc.

    And when used on the car they are beyond compare. Where cotton towels would streak, the microfiber towels do not.

    Thumbs up for Microfiber :D
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    Beach, the first I heard of them is your previous post. Is this the brand name? Where can they be found? AutoZone, Wallmart, Pepboys? The only reason I've used terry cloth thus far is because you-know-who recommended, "only U.S.-made 100% cotton terry".
    I second your thanks to all who participate here. It's a great resource.

    -David
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    the type of towel. Typically, they are made up of about 70-80% polyester and 30-20% "polyamide".


    Wal-mart has some...in the US, IIRC, they are made by Nic Sand. I'm sure you can probably get some at Autozone or Pepboys.


    There are many places that you can order them online.


    Try this site for a detailed explanation on Microfiber:

    http://www.properautocare.com/micwhatbigde.html

  • beachnutbeachnut Member Posts: 291
    I've been using the MF towels sold at Wal-Mart. IIRC, they were around $5.00 for a pack of 2 and are a little larger than a washcloth. I've found these smaller ones to be great for detailing, esp applying and buffing. As protege_fan pointed out, properautocare.com has a great selection of MF towels. In fact, I'm waiting for my Big Blue Towels to arrive from them any day now! I'm not able to detail this weekend anyway - we're on our tenth straight day of rains, but we need it ...
  • rockycowrockycow Member Posts: 114
    The best place I have found to buy these towels is at COSTCO. About $12 for a pack of 12.
  • tntitan2tntitan2 Member Posts: 4
    The car I did today was a 1996 Buick LeSabre that had never been waxed. The paint was actually in good shape since it was garage kept and low mileage. It took quite a while to clay the car. Lots of comtaminants and the thing is a beast compared to my Accord.

    I put one coat of Blackfire polish on and two coats of protectant in less than 90 minutes by hand. This stuff is pretty much idiot proof. Apply thinly, wait 30 seconds, buff and move to next section. No elbow grease required. It goes on easily and buffs off like your cleaning a window. No time required between polish and protectant or for the next layer of protectant. It was 93 degrees and extremely humid and I never saw the first bit of haze or problem. This is exactly what I am looking for. By the way did I mention that it looks fantastic. If this stuff only lasted 3 months I would still love it since it is so easy but if it lasts six or more months as advertised - then I guess I can throw the other stuff out.

    Spent over an hour on the leather interior. My Mom was more impressed with the 303 on the leather and vinyl than anything else. Having been in the garage the interior was in good shape and the 303 really made it look super.

    I forgot to mention that the car has black trim all the way around as door guard and the blackfire wiped right off with no residue. Just to experiment I left some on one spot and when I detailed the trim with the 303 it disappeared. I am a really big fan of 303 because it it so versatile. Also used it to coat all of the door and trunk seals.

    It was a long day but worth it for a well deserving mother. She said if it looked rainy tomorrow she would have to get someone to pick her up and take her to church. She may be converted as a detail fanatic.
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Member Posts: 1,265
    My cars are daily drivers, however they are garage kept and hand washed. To be honest, I get great shine and protection for at least 8 months after applying Klasse All-In-One and the High Gloss Sealant Glaze. I can't tell you how easy Klasse is to use. Simply wipe on and buff off, you have to try it for yourself. The potential difficulty of buffing the High Gloss Sealant Glaze is the only concern I have seen posted by actual Klasse users. The solution is very simple use less product. I really like Klasse and highly recommend it to anyone who asks about the looks & shine of my pair of beloved Mazda Protege ES's!

    Respectfully,
    Larry
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Didn't work my fingers to the bone over the weekend, but close. I did the clay/glaze/wax treatment for my Dad's evergreen Taurus. Looked great, but had to work on it between cloudbursts.

    On my own vehicles I did a top coat on 2 cars to test the differences in behavior of the three types. I also couldn't wait to see if the P21S lives up to its reputation. On the the gray Dodge I put on 3M Perfect-It as a final coat. On the white Subaru I did half of the hood and roof with Meguiars #26 and P21S. Now this is not a virginal test. I'll probably do a more complete test next summer. Both cars have already been glazed with 3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze, and then a base coat of 3M Perfect-It Show Car Wax.

    On the white car half of the topcoat was Meguiars and half P21S on the hood and roof. The gray car has just 3M Perfect-It as a control. On Tuesday I'm going to do the half and half treatment on the roof and trunk of the blaze red Mazda that is in the sun constantly at my wife's work.

    Here are my initial impressions about using each wax in the topcoat stage. A summary followed by detailed impressions.

    Ease of application:

    Meguiars #26 Hard Yellow Wax wi Carnauba -- Medium.
    3M Perfect-It Show Car Paste Wax -- Easy
    P21S Carnauba Wax - Very Easy (considering only the wax not the applicator)

    Removal as per instructions:

    Meguiars #26 -- Medium.
    3M Perfect-It Paste Wax -- Easy
    P21S - Very Easy

    Removal if left too long:

    Meguiars #26 -- Somewhat Firm.
    3M Perfect-It Paste Wax -- Firm
    P21S - Firm

    Amount of Residue

    Meguiars #26 -- Some.
    3M Perfect-It Paste Wax -- Light
    P21S - Light

    Initial Depth of Shine (Jetting or wet look)

    Meguiars #26 -- Very Good.
    3M Perfect-It Paste Wax -- Very Good
    P21S - Very Good.

    I have not been able to tell a significant difference yet.

    Clarity of Shine (determined by being able to see branches leaves and limbs and garage roof gable as reflected off the surface by color and sharpness of image)

    Meguiars #26 -- Very Good
    3M Perfect-It Paste Wax -- Very Good -- Excellent
    P21S - Excellent. The image appeared slightly sharper on the P21S sections.

    Meguiars #26 Hard Yellow Wax with Carnauba. This venerable wax is the least expensive. 11.5 ounces for $8.98. It came with a large foam applicator. The new can is plastic, and twice as high as the prior tin can. It felt like reaching into a deep well when trying to resupply the applicator. I called Meguiars and they indicated that they are currently redesigning the container. I preferred the older metal one. This was a little easier to fill the applicator than 3M, but was the hardest to apply on the paint surface. Not that it was difficult, just had more resistence. It was the hardest generally to wipe off. But ironically, it was very forgiving. I could apply and remove the wax to the largest area of any of them. Removal within a minute or 2 had more drag, but didn't get too hard if it went a little too long. One thing I do like about this wax is that in a few weeks I can touch the surface and know whether it is still present or not.

    3M Perfect-It Show Car Wax cost $14.95 for my last 11.5 ounce can. The sturdy version only comes in paste. It came in a metal tin, and had no enclosed applicator. I used a clean Meguiars foam pad taken directly from the package. This is an extremely hard wax in the can, but was easier applying to the surface than Meguiars. It had to be applied in smaller areas before it would get excessively hard. It worked best in about a 3 foot area where Meguiars would allow at least 4 square feet. Removal was easy if caught correctly but based on past experience is a real beast if allowed to dry too hard. Never apply this wax in the sun. Being a harder wax, less is required to apply a good coat and may be the most economical of all. This is the only wax I use when it is not one of my vehicles. I really like it.

    P21S Paste Wax is by far the most expensive of the 3 waxes. $24.95 for 6.5 ounces. So it costs roughly twice as much for half the quantity. It was in a taller narrower plastic can. It was supplied with an open foam applicator that frankly appeared cheap. It is easy to remove out of the jar and applies like butter. But spreading the wax was frustrating due to the pi__ poor applicator (sorry). I'm switching to Meguiars or a microfiber one as soon as there is enough room in the jar to allow space. This has to be removed when a light haze appears. If you wait too long it requires hard rubbing to remove. I imagine that this would also be difficult to remove if sun baked. Used properly, it is very easy. I found that in my dry atmosphere that I could do no more than a 2 X 2 foot area before it got too dry. A small aside, this wax can slide right out of the container, so make sure it's flat at all times. Not a problem with any of the other waxes. The question to me is not whether it's good, but whether it merits the drastic increase in price.

    IN CONCLUSION, not one of the products was bad. Differences in initial appearance are frankly so slight that if they were put on separate cars no one could tell the difference unless they were an expert. I can see why all three waxes have won concours competitions. The initial impression of all of them is good.

    We'll see how it holds up over the hot summer.
  • beachnutbeachnut Member Posts: 291
    I noticed the Pro board is getting close to 15K posts, hehehe!

    Let me ask you a few questions ...at what point do you feel like it's time for a re-app of Klasse? Do you notice less shine or less water beading? Or do you just go by a time schedule? What type of buffer are you using? I just used Klasse for the first time 3 weeks ago on my Accord ... the MPV is next!
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Member Posts: 1,265
    Scott, I do all my Klasse applications by hand with a Viper Micro Fiber Applicator pad, I purchased from the folks at Autopia/Proper Auto Care/Classic Motoring Accessories. I spritz the pad with Eagle One Wipe and Shine and use a small dab of Klasse. Of course All-In-One is a bit faster to apply, and the Sealant Glaze is best applied with small amounts of product and used on smaller sections of my Protege, at a time. I guess some folks could say Sealant Glaze is tough to buff shine? Well, it's much easier than applying TOO much Meguiar's Hi-Tech #26 yellow Paste wax at one time. If you let a too thick layer of #26 haze over on your paint, your dead meat! Removal of Klasse is by hand with a couple of Miracle Towels or some really old NicSands that are kind of wore out and pretty soft.

    I feel the Klasse acts as an elastic acrylic protective paint sealant. So, my final step (I know it is overkill!!) is a coat of Blitz Wax every 3 months or so. Here is the pay back. The Klasse is still beading and protecting after almost 8 months. The Blitz adds an extra depth of shine to my Emerald Mica paint work and I'm damn proud of both my PRO-ES's.

    I have a 9 inch Craftman Orbital Buffer which I obtained before I started Klasse. I have used it to apply and remove the Blitz Wax, but honestly I use it less and less. PLEASE DON'T TELL MY WIFE, SHE WOULD BE HISSED. She gave it to me for Father's Day last year! Cripes, I get it out every time I detail my Mazda's and put it away later, lol! Scott how do you like your 2001 Mazda MPV?

    -Larry
  • specialmspecialm Member Posts: 31
    I've got a boat with red sides that are fading to pink. What would you guys recommend to use on it to bring back the red? I've been using 303 on it for the last couple of years as a quick and temporary rejuvenator but was looking for something better. Is there such a product?
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    in putting Carnaubas on top of an acrylic like Klasse. Apparently the Carnaubas provide a type of depth that nothing else can do.

    I went to a local car show this weekend. And one that looked particularly good had Klasse as a base coat (both All in one and Sealant Glaze), Blitz for the wet look depth, and Sovereign for the highest shine. Carnaubas apparently repel dust much better.
  • beachnutbeachnut Member Posts: 291
    Does anyone know of a good leather cleaner that would take the black scuff marks off the backs of the seats that the kiddos make when the kick the seats? Lexol didn't seem to do the trick.

    I don't see much talk here about chamois'. Are they passe'? Do they cause any problems when used on a detailed finish, whether wax or glaze? I know when they're new they seem to have a lot of oil in them, tho I'm not sure what type. Of course, there's the constant wringing out and just plain hard to use (IMO) problems. Any thoughts?

    I just washed my Accord for the first time in three weeks! Our rainy season prevents a lot of detailing over the summer, but we got a nice day in Sunday, so I washed. This was the first wash since applying Klasse. I used a product called Westley's, which I believe is made by Blue Coral. It stated that it was safe for detailing finishes (wouldn't strip, etc.), but when it rained the next day, I noticed a marked decrease in the water beading. Did the Westley's do this, or is it just normal for Klasse?

    Does anyone notice that Rain-X makes your wiper blades skip and jump like there's resistance? I've actually noticed this for several years. I always keep fresh Bosch's on my cars, but they don't ever seem to work as well after Rain-X.

    Phew! Ok, enough for now! BTW, Larry, I like our MPV just fine, but I think I'm gonna get a major workout if I don't use a buffer ;-(
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    I don't like them because you can drag grit across your paint if there happens to be a piece that didn't come off when washing, or that lands after you've finished washing.

    I now dab with a 100% cotton towel and then finish with a microfiber towel. No lint, no streaks :D
  • pjyoungpjyoung Member Posts: 885
    I use the "forbidden" product to clean my leather, but it seems to remove scuff marks pretty well on my car. Hope the regulars forgive me for this, but the Z9 (cleaner) takes off just about anything that's been in there. I've got an 8 year old and use my car to haul her and her friends around, so that might give you an idea of what I'm dealing with. Hope that helps.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Klass has more of a sheeting action rather than beading one since it is not a Carnauba. However to me, the fact that it beaded in the rain before, but didn't a day later when it rained is not good. It sounds like it affected the finish some. Switch to Gold Class Shampoo. The large container is economical and it does a superb job.

    I'm sure the Pinnacle, P21S and other primo shampoos will do a great job, but at a price.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    My neighbors like Gold Class Leather Cleaner and Conditioner. But their children are older.
  • beachnutbeachnut Member Posts: 291
    I should backtrack a little - the finish still beads pretty good, just not AS good, but I'll take your advice and buy some Gold Class - and give the rest of the Westley's to someone at work, hehe!
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    I really like Eagle One's leather cleaner. It's a bit more powerful than Lexol and works well for me.

    If we are talking about the seat backs, my guess is that they are actually vinyl. On most cars the only leather is on the seating surface. All other trim on seats is vinyl. So you might want to try one of the more aggressive cleaners in your arsenal. Test it for color-fastness, of course.

    One little tool I use when cleaning leather is a small stiff bristle brush. I got one at Target for $1.99 and it really gets the leather clean. Most people think you need to be extra gentle while cleaning leather but the truth is you can be somewhat aggressive. I spray on the cleaner, let it setup for a few seconds, scrub like a maniac, then wipe off the residue with clean towels.

    One special hint: After wiping off the residue, take some wet paper towels and wipe the seats again. You need to remove all the cleaner from the seats or it will eat thru the clearcoat protecting the leather and dry out the leather. The first wipe of the residue does not remove all the cleaner so take your time and get it all off.

    Happy scrubbing!! :-)
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    I just washed my vehicles with Gold Class today and the beading was really high. It didn't diminish at all, but the wax is only a couple of weeks old.

    I also used P21S and Meguiars on another topcoat test for my Mazda. Opinion still holds. Both are good waxes, but images are a tiny bit cleaner on the P21S side. No difference in depth and color.

    As always, time will tell. I'm interested to see the reaction after some time in the sun has heated up the wax on that dark red finish.
  • runpantherrunpanther Member Posts: 44
    I washed my wife's Highlander and noticed drops of what I think is tree sap all over the hood and grill(actually, not really sure what it is?). I tried removing it w/Bug and Tar remover but it didn't seem to work.

    This vehicle is garage kept and washed and waxed on a regular basis. These "spots" annoy me. Can anyone offer advice. Thanks in advance for your help.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Wouldn't clay work for this?
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    Did we not discuss this in here recently? I don't recall exactly but you should scroll back a ways and look for it. I think there were several good suggestions.
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    I've said it before but no problem, I'll say it again.

    I've used Rubbing Alcohol to remove tree sap. It will also remove any wax/sealer so you will need to wash and reapply your favorite stuff.

    Try it in an inconspicous location before applying it on your paint just to make sure it doesn't affect the paint - it shouldn't but just to be safe.

    YMMV.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Is this from a maple, or other sweet tree? If it is simply letting the car soak for a while then washing cleans it up nicely.
  • beachnutbeachnut Member Posts: 291
    I was amazed at the way that the Klasse All-In-One cleaner/polish did away with the tree sap on my car. Of course, this was after claying and before sealant, so it's not really a product you could use all by itself, just one of the steps.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    I found recently that P21S (Which thewaxtest.org rated the best Carnauba wax last fall) has a cousin.

    This wax is called S100 and sells FOR $10.00 LESS WHEN IT IS THE IDENTICAL WAX. It is sold as a motorcycle wax, but is in the same can, and has exactly the same description for what it does, and is made by the same company.

    I bought a can of P21S for 24.95, and S100 Sells for $14.95.

    Guess what I'll buy next time if I do. Still not convinced it beats 3M Perfect-It or Meguiars. Time will tell.
  • kirbstoykirbstoy Member Posts: 53
    Has anyone used Eagle-1's new wax that is spayed on the vehicle while its coated with the rinse water? The selling point is that it waxes the vehicle while you dry it with terry towels etc.. Looks interesting and, frankly, if it works as well as their spray detailer, I'll use it! Thanks !
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    I know a couple people testing it but no real-world info so far. I'll post it when I hear something.

    In the meantime, why not buy a bottle and give it a spin?
  • britton2britton2 Member Posts: 305
    I have this product - the Wax as U Dry - and I can't say enough about it - it's great! It is very easy to use - spray on lightly while your car is still wet and dry with either chamois or towel (I use the Absorber) - the shine is leaves is very impressive - and the water beads almost as much as if you spent hours applying a paste wax - for a quickie wax job this stuff does the job - I like all of Eagle One's products that I have tried -
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    If you're using the Absorber on that Wax as U dry stuff, wouldn't the wax that you'd be getting in the Absorber interfere with it's "hydrophilic" properties?
  • britton2britton2 Member Posts: 305
    I think I know what you're asking - no, the Absorber doesn't absorb the moisture to the point of not leaving any (wax as u dry) on the surface of your car - I really like the stuff.
  • ranger96ranger96 Member Posts: 16
    I just bought a used WHITE Ford Ranger and the
    paint is dual and not shiney.What do you guys recomend to bring the shine back? I still have left over zymol cleaner wax still left in a bottle. Is this war good?THANKS
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    I live close to some mountains that are currently on fire. About 3,000 acres have burned, but it is only 35% contained. No current danger to my home, but there is a lot of ash in the air. It has deposited a sticky coating on all of the cars. Even garages don't really help. Will this be hard on the paint?
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Actually, it was more to the fact that the absorber would absorb some of that wax. By doing so, it would start to repel water, making the absorber less effective. Is that correct or not?
  • kirbstoykirbstoy Member Posts: 53
    Well, I bought a bottle and tried it last night on my 2001 Focus ZTS...dark metallic green. It worked very well. Easy to use, and left a great shine. Like Britton2, I've liked all the Eagle-1 products I've tried.

    I also picked up a bottle of Eagle-1 "A2Z" wheel cleaner. The ZTS wheels are 16", multi-spoke and painted silver (factory paint). Until last night with the Eagle-1 cleaner, I never thought I'd get the wheels really clean. I followed the directions completely and I couldn't believe how nice the wheels looked when finished. Eagle-1 has a new, enthusiastic customer!
  • britton2britton2 Member Posts: 305
    protege fan: I see your point - but no, it doesn't make the absorber less effective -

    kirbstoy: I have not tried Eagle One's wheel cleaner but am a big fan of their car wash too - you can get alot of helpful tips from their website too (eagleone.com)
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Thanks for the info! Good to know.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Sounds like your ranger is oxydized. Use Meguairs clear coat scrub after using a clay bar. It is specifically designed to remove oxydation without abrasives. Follow up with Meguiars #9 Swirl Mark Remover #2 and then wax of choice.
  • mpynempyne Member Posts: 120
    im jumping the zaino ship and want to try something less time comsuming. is klasse all in one any good and also can i use it on a new car?
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    They have an excellent description about how to apply Klasse. Apparently if applied thinly, it is easy.
  • lokkilokki Member Posts: 1,200
    I've been using Klasse for about a year or so. I like it. I have a pair of matching cars; both white and I've used it on both cars. I wash the cars weekly.

    I pretty much agree with what others have said here:
    I find that the Klasse All-In-One gives a nice look and is very easy to apply. It won't do anything to hide swirl marks, if that's a concern.

    I also agree that you need to put the sealer-glaze on for a really sharp shine. I subjectively think that the shine is different than a wax shine - more translucent - and thus with less depth than a wax shine, which seems visually 'softer' somehow. Klasse is definitely an acrylic shine.

    My wife's car is garaged at home and at work. On her car the shine lasts very well.. I have redone both cars after 6 months so I can't speak beyond that point. No sign of any deterioration in gloss or protection. My car, which sits outdoors while I'm at work was good for about 6 months. There are two indicators I use - bead size and shape and how much dirt sticks to the car after a rain.

    The sealer-glaze is a REAL pain to apply. "Thin coats" means THIN. It's not a job for a man in a hurry and not a job when the weather is too hot. Still, the look is very nice and it lasts long enough to be worth the work.

    Just my humble opinion.

    I also have a question: If I want to strip the Klasse off to really prep the paint before rewaxing, how do I strip it? Will Dawn take off Acrylics as well as waxes?

    Thanks
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    Dawn will do a number on that Klasse, especially if its a few months old. You could also use rubbing alcohol or a body shop prep solvent called PrepSol. That stuff will take off any wax or sealant.
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    It's called General Adhesive remover. I got mine at an auto paint supply store locally. Not available from mail order.
  • frapzoidfrapzoid Member Posts: 127
    I called Meguiar's and I also talked to a professional detailer and they both said to never use Dawn or anything else like that on your paint. They both told me that wax will wear off soon enough so you will never have to use anything to strip it off. I have to say that in 25 years of waxing cars I have never had any wax build up. I'm not saying these 2 sources are right or wrong... just passing on info.
This discussion has been closed.