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Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)
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protege fan - I am stumped as to what's causing the haze - sounds to me like you are doing everything right - have you tried Stoner's Invisible Glass? Alot of people swear by it - sorry I couldn't be of more help
Actually, I've heard of Stoner's, but I've never seen it. Looks like I'm going to have to go on a hunt.
I used 20/20 and stuff called Clear Vue (before they sold out to Turtle Wax) for a long time. But I too got some streaking/hazing with 20/20. I still have several bottles of it and use it around the house with great results. But the so-so performance forced me to seek out other cleaners and that led me to Stoners and Sprayway, both of which I love. So it might be worth a few $$ to experiment.
Also, I found that special care for the glass cleaning microfiber towels is critical. I wash my glass towels by hand now and let them air dry. When I used to wash them with the other microfibers that I use on the car I felt that the glass towel was picking up residue during the wash. So now I do the glass towels alone and things are better.
I know, it sounds eccentric but perfection ain't easy.
So, I am now going to roll up my sleeves and do the car myself. The wife will be gone for two days and we are to have two days of cooler and less humid weather here in Philly, so the detailing God has spoken and shown me the path I should take.
Going to wash the car with Dawn tonight and then starting with the clay bar at first light tomorrow. Then hitting it with 3M glaze for darker cars and then a coat of show car wax.
I have a question or two. First, my wife's Passat has a good amount of black plastic on the exterior. The dealer coated it with something along the lines of Armor All--it's oily and only attracting dirt and dust. I am going to get some 303 for it, but am wondering what I need to do to prep the surface of the plastic for the 303. Will Dawn clean the surface enough?
Also, wanted to thank Mr. Detalier for the suggesting that the 3M glaze for the new Passat might be a little much. I was wondering about that, so will go with a lighter cleaner before the 3M wax. I guess this work will be for next weekend.
A man's work is never done....
Where I live it's fairly dusty. After washing my car at night, the next morning I can see it covered in dust/pollen. If you used your clay on this, the clay would pick up a lot of that dust/pollen and you'd use up your clay pretty quick.
Just my $.02
Just got back from NAPA with my 3M glaze and paste wax. Do need to get a clay bar kit, but NAPA wanted $25 for just their bar. Know I can get Mother's kit for $20 at Pep Boys--which includes their spray and cleaner wax, so have another stop after work.
Will eat well and get a good night's sleep, for tomorrow will be a full day or car care!
My project this weekend is my gf's '91 Jetta GL. In terms of paint care and interior care, it's been fairly neglected.
I think I'm gonna have to use Nu-finish on it though...Not sure if I like using up my Mother's pre-wax cleaner ($10 CDN) sealer and glaze ($10 CDN) wax on it ($20 CDN). I'll probably have to clay it though and if I do that I may break down and go all out on it with the 3-step system.
OR, maybe I'll do the interior...that's a fairly nasty job too!
If you get Mother's don't forget to chuck the Cleaner wax it's not durable at all. The only complaint I had about Mothers was the cost.
Oh, and don't forget not to let the 3M paste dry too long or get in the sun. Unless of course you want a hard workout. Its pretty easy to remove before it gets too hard, but a real beast if left too long. For me in the summer that's a 3 X 3 foot area in the shade. But our humidity is currently 28% so you may be able to go slightly larger.
Dawn should remove the guck on your wife's trim. 303 is probably a good choice.
Meguiar's kit is similarly priced.
I've never seen clay magic in retail stores here which is really irritating.
Also, I read in another forum that somebody was using the cleaner wax that came with the mother's kit to wax the inside of the door jambs...I think that's a great use!
Mr. D read my mind about how long to let the 3M paste wax dry. Can says to allow to dry to COMPLETE haze, which did send a cringe through me. I am wary of two things--putting too much on and allowing it to stay on too long. Both of which lead to streaking and hard labor. Will try a few small areas first to get a feel for the coat and drying time. That way places like hood and roof do not turn into a nightmare.
Mr. D's advice on using the Eagle One spray on the applicator for the wax was a great idea. Just a quick question--have two new bottles of Meg. Final Inspection spray and a bottle of Meg. quick detailer--would this work in place of the Eagle One?
I am going to hit the 303 site now to order their protectant.
Good luck with your endeavors, Protege. Speaking of, my wife's new Passat replaced her 99 Protege ES. Fine car--she previously had a 95 Protege and got the 99 for the larger engine and upgrades.
She has a fair amount of commuting now, so she wanted a larger car with good safety features.
Again, thanks for the comments and help.
-David
Thanks,
http://www.tacscar.com
http://www.yosteve.com
http://www.properautocare.com
It's hard to find the awesome, elite products in stores. Most are available via online or mail order. Click on the links I gave above and do some research. You will learn alot about car care from those folks.
If you want to stick with something available at retail, look at products like:
Meguiar's Gold Class
Meguiar's Medallion
Eagle One Wet polish
Mothers Reflections polish
I'd even suggest Armor All Diamond Shine wax over Nufinish. It's not too bad for the price and you can find it everywhere.
Those are a few of the better products out there. Sadly, most stores carry the same junk so you really have to look for the diamonds in rough but they are there. For example, I found one of my all-time fave rubber and tire dressings at KMart, Eagle One Interior-Exterior Protectant. Only $4.19 a bottle which is a steal. The stuff I usually use costs $13-20/bottle.
The online store at 3M.com
Properautocare.com
autobarn.com
Napa Auto Parts stores
Here are some other seemingly good sources.
premiumautocare.com
autodetail.com
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Tntitan--thanks for the advice. I did come across a great find in my area for high-end car car products. Called Car Crazy (carcrazy.net)--it's a small shop outside Philly that has a great selection of products like 303, Pinnacle, 3M, Meguairs professional, etc. Got a 32oz bottle of 303 protectant for $17.95! Check out their website--they have great prices and have free shipping for orders over $20.
As for microfiber towels, I was able to get my car washed on Saturday (figures it would rain today--weather report had said Friday no rain for next five days!). Used a couple of microfiber towels I found at Bed,Bath and Beyond. While they are not premium towels like Big Blue from properautocare.com, they are nice and did a great job. Got four 16x24" for $20. Amazed as to how much water they would soak up. Also did a great job when I went over the car with detailing spray--with a little effort, they got a few water spots off.
Will have to wait till next weekend to get out to play. Will post opinion of the new products I am trying for the first time (303, 3M glaze and wax).
If it doesn't, use a clay bar first. The dust on new cars contains iron filings and is particularly nasty. It should be removed immediately. Use the clay bar once or twice a year after that and
certainly before using any machine buffer.
I would also consider some of the mild polishes for newer cars like P21S Paintwork Cleansing Lotion, or Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion. In 2-3 years I would then consider 3M Perfect-It Glaze and Swirl Remover for Dark Cars since you will probably need something
stronger then. Polishes add depth to the paint finish. Do not use anything that says "Paint Restorer" or "Oxydation Remover." It will be too strong for your new finish.
What can I do to fix this situation. Please help me with some simple products to use that can be all done by hand and which won't break the bank. I would like to purchase all products at either a Walmart or Pep Boys or other retail outfit.
Thanks for all the help and sorry to be so long winded!
The Sandman
Wash the car with blue Dawn brand (or equivalent) dishwashing soap, thoroughly rinse, clay and dry, then evaluate by inspecting you paint closely at an angle from your strongest source of light. If your paint has water spots, you need to try removing them by soaking them with white vinegar-soaked cotton balls and wiping. If paint came off on your towel (if that IS the case, let's hope the white pigment is different enough from your towels to detect), it has oxidized and that should be removed with some reputable brand of polishing glaze. If that is not satisfactory or glaze is not among the things available from where you want to buy, your would try a reputable brand of polish, polishing compound, or "cleaner wax" until the paint is evenly reflective. If this effort does not work, I would consult a reputable detailer to try to attain clean, evenly reflective paint. Once this is achieved, apply your polymer or carnauba wax of choice per instructions. Assuming your waxing was really religious, at least two or three times a year for an garaged vehicle, more for an exposed vehicle, return to your previous pattern of care. Use the companion soap to your protectant to wash.
Technique: Dust your car by holding hand or bath size towels by the corners and drag them across the panels; i.e., use gravity on the horizontal panels and just the pressure of the cloth against vertical panels to catch and remove the dust.
Thoroughly rinse then wash the car using a hand size towel wrapped around a sponge; turn the towel frequently. Your energy should be much more side-to-side then against the paint in all stages.
Thoroughly rinse and either dry your vehicle or clay; i.e., just insure that you minimize contact between the Dawn water and the clay. Clay horizontal surfaces first to learn the feel, if it is new to you.
Apply your polymer/polish/wax with front-to-back strokes on horizontal surfaces, and up-and-down strokes on vertical surfaces; this minimizes the appearance of swirl marks.
Wipe off/buff with clean towel surfaces.
Wash with Dawn
3M Tar and Wax remover (I just bought a spray can at my Wally World Store)
Clay Bar of Choice.
Meguiars Clear Coat Body Scrub Paint Cleaner(red bottle). This will chemically remove stains and oxidation. Nothing in store bought products does the same thing.
Meguiars #9 Swirl Remover 2.0 if needed to remove light scratches and swirl marks. If I have light scratches, this is one of my favorite products.
Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze to add nourishing oils and polish to the paint surface. It will add depth to the shine as well.
Top with Meguiars #26 Hard Yellow. Comes in both Liquid and Paste. Liquid easier to apply and remove, but Paste is much more economical and IMO lasts a bit longer.
I would also consider 3M Perfect-It Show Car Paste Wax,(NAPA Auto) even if you have to order it from the Internet. The online store at www.3m.com currently has free shipping. This wax is more durable, and looks just as good.
I have already clayed/Medallion Cleaner/#7/Medallion Premium Paint Protectant their cars this summer. The challenge is to keep the cars protected through the winter (without me doing the work). I could get them to apply a few more coats of MPPP probably (maybe one a month as they wash about that often) or they could apply Speed Bead followed by Bead Max since Speed Bead has cleaners/polish to remove any remaining MPPP and the Bead Max doesn't so it can be layered. Also, the Stoner's sounds easier to apply so that means there is more chance that they would actually do it.
So I am wondering if 3-4 coats applied over 3-4 months of MPPP would be better than 2-3 coats of Stoner's applied over 2-3 months before winter. Which do you think would last longer? How long has Stoner's lasted for those who have used it?
My personal plan is to build up 2-3 coats of MPPP and then 1-2 coats of #26 before winter. However, I am likely to wash my car in the winter and apply an extra coat of #26. My hose puts out heated water, so that really helps when it's cold...
I always top a polymer or acrylic finish with a Carnauba like #26 so you won't find an argument from me there.
Luckly, my relatives all have garages to 3M Perfect-It Show Car Wax really works well for them for an entire 6 months.
i bought some for my girlfriends car but thought i might try it. it says its a wax and polymer. have you noticed if it lasts for a long time?
thanks
It did *seem* to hold up for a long time, but it's tough to say as I used it to prep for the winter.
There's no question NuFinish has strong cleaning ability, both from solvents and abrasives. This is OK to use on an old car that needs some sprucing up but I think it's far too harsh for a new car. The fact that its protective abilities are decent do not overshadow its aggressiveness.
Car care products that are high in petroleum distillates will dry out the plasticizers in the clearcoat over time. The clearcoat is a complex mix of chemicals designed to protect the color coat under a variety of harsh conditions. It's something that needs a product that will help maintain its shine and strength. I don't see Nufinish's harsh cleaners doing that.
The last wax comparo from Consumer Reports was May 2000 where Nufinish placed 3rd. Since CR tends to test whatever is widely available at retail for a reasonable price, the competitors in that test were mostly waxes and polishes costing under $10. The products that are the best for your car are rarely available at retail and cost a bit more than $10. Point is, you get what you pay for. I saw NuFinish at my local WalMart for less than $5.00. If that's your budget and it works for you then all the rest of this stuff doesn't matter.
Regardless of what we use, I'd rather see clean, shiny cars on the road than dirty, dull ones.
Both of my vehicles are Toyota (92 Camry White and 98 Sienna Black). Sienna doesn't have a clearcoat.
I use Klaase on both topped with Pinnacle Souveran only on the black Sienna.This combo is IMO the best, sometimes I dont want to use the van anymore.
No need to wax the Camry for you not will achieve any deeper luster. Maintained using Wipe and Shine and Klaase once a week.
Nu-Finish-- outstanding, incredible, fantastic
product... Use it for my alloy wheels.
A fast application of Quick Detailer took out the water spots easily. The hood now looks as good as the rest of the car. Would have been a mess if wax had gone on top of those spots.
I'll be watching closely for water spots on the hood from now on. The extra heat from the engine can play havoc with the paint.
Have also been just recently using MF towels. Can't say enough about them--do a great job of drying and love them to do a final coat of Meg's Final Inspection after washing. The one thing I did find out was that I do not have enough towels! Going to order ten more 16x16 from Tom at JT International for $26--priority shipping included.
Still looking for a time to Dawn, clay, polish and wax. College football is only a month away, so I had better hurry.
I sort of wonder if the longevity has just become an urban legend that everyone keeps repeating. Or maybe the fact that it sheets instead of beading (which seems dopey to me) leads people to think it isn't there anymore. It really sounds like an intriguing product (although I just ordered some #26 to top my MPPP with) especially since my car is a darkish red. But if it doesn't outlast the MPPP or #26 then it becomes a bit harder to justify the expense. Thanks for any firsthand info!
My wife will be out of town this weekend so it gives me the perfect chance to put a great shine on the cars.
Only problem I can forsee with it, is that they don't just sell the bars alone, and therefore, if you want more bars, you HAVE to buy the entire kit. The only way around this is to order direct from Mothers and then IIRC, you can buy 3 bars by themselves.
My personal experience is this. I applied Blackfire about 4 weeks ago when it was 95 degrees with about 85% humidity. Washed, clayed, one coat of Blackfire polish and 2 coats of Blackfire protectant. It only took 2 hours to do the polish and 2 coats of protectant on my wife's Honda CRV. I don't know if it will last 3 months, 4 months, or 6 months and I really don't care because it is so easy to use that I am sure that I will never wait that long to reapply anyway. Wipe on, wipe off. It is that simple. No waiting between coats, no hazing, no trim stains, no problems.
How long it lasts will depend on so many things it is hard to quantify. The climate, time of daily exposure, washing methods and frequency and many other factors play a major role in the longevity of any wax or protectant.
It is all a matter of personal preference. The Blackfire is easy and fast to use, works well in hot humid weather, and gives a deep wet looking shine that lasts better than carnuba wax. That is what I was looking for so Blackfire is just right for me.