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Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

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Comments

  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    That's the easiest I've found. Not every NAPA carries the full line of 3M but most do. I've never been to another auto parts store that carries a better selection of 3M. Buying online gets you the best selection, of course.
  • britton2britton2 Member Posts: 305
    The only store in my area that carries 3M is Pep Boys - and they only have 2 or 3 products - not the entire line -

    protege fan - I am stumped as to what's causing the haze - sounds to me like you are doing everything right - have you tried Stoner's Invisible Glass? Alot of people swear by it - sorry I couldn't be of more help
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    No problem.
    Actually, I've heard of Stoner's, but I've never seen it. Looks like I'm going to have to go on a hunt.
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    I buy locally at Pep Boys. I think its $3/can.

    I used 20/20 and stuff called Clear Vue (before they sold out to Turtle Wax) for a long time. But I too got some streaking/hazing with 20/20. I still have several bottles of it and use it around the house with great results. But the so-so performance forced me to seek out other cleaners and that led me to Stoners and Sprayway, both of which I love. So it might be worth a few $$ to experiment.

    Also, I found that special care for the glass cleaning microfiber towels is critical. I wash my glass towels by hand now and let them air dry. When I used to wash them with the other microfibers that I use on the car I felt that the glass towel was picking up residue during the wash. So now I do the glass towels alone and things are better.

    I know, it sounds eccentric but perfection ain't easy. :) I hope all this helps. Good luck and let us know how things work out.
  • adennadenn Member Posts: 18
    Well, I was going to let a local detailer take care of my alero, but after contacting them about whether they would use 3M past wax instead of Meguiar's liquid, they were less than happy about considering it. Also, my dear wife threw in her few cents worth and remarked that I would have never considered anyone doing the car but myself when I was younger (ouch, that hurt!)

    So, I am now going to roll up my sleeves and do the car myself. The wife will be gone for two days and we are to have two days of cooler and less humid weather here in Philly, so the detailing God has spoken and shown me the path I should take.

    Going to wash the car with Dawn tonight and then starting with the clay bar at first light tomorrow. Then hitting it with 3M glaze for darker cars and then a coat of show car wax.

    I have a question or two. First, my wife's Passat has a good amount of black plastic on the exterior. The dealer coated it with something along the lines of Armor All--it's oily and only attracting dirt and dust. I am going to get some 303 for it, but am wondering what I need to do to prep the surface of the plastic for the 303. Will Dawn clean the surface enough?

    Also, wanted to thank Mr. Detalier for the suggesting that the 3M glaze for the new Passat might be a little much. I was wondering about that, so will go with a lighter cleaner before the 3M wax. I guess this work will be for next weekend.

    A man's work is never done....
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    This is just IMO only, but I like to wash then clay right away.

    Where I live it's fairly dusty. After washing my car at night, the next morning I can see it covered in dust/pollen. If you used your clay on this, the clay would pick up a lot of that dust/pollen and you'd use up your clay pretty quick.

    Just my $.02
  • adennadenn Member Posts: 18
    Thanks for the advice. I figured the car would be dusty or covered with pollen, so I would probably spend about the same amount of time in the morning cleaning with a detailing spray (like Meguiar's final detail) or simply rinsing it with water again. I am up before 5am anyway, so will just start right away on the whole process.

    Just got back from NAPA with my 3M glaze and paste wax. Do need to get a clay bar kit, but NAPA wanted $25 for just their bar. Know I can get Mother's kit for $20 at Pep Boys--which includes their spray and cleaner wax, so have another stop after work.

    Will eat well and get a good night's sleep, for tomorrow will be a full day or car care!
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Have fun detailing!

    My project this weekend is my gf's '91 Jetta GL. In terms of paint care and interior care, it's been fairly neglected.

    I think I'm gonna have to use Nu-finish on it though...Not sure if I like using up my Mother's pre-wax cleaner ($10 CDN) sealer and glaze ($10 CDN) wax on it ($20 CDN). I'll probably have to clay it though and if I do that I may break down and go all out on it with the 3-step system.

    OR, maybe I'll do the interior...that's a fairly nasty job too!
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    That's atrocious unless the bar is huge. Autozone has Clay magic for $10.00, Meguiars is about the same price (but that is softer in the heat--great for fall or early spring however)

    If you get Mother's don't forget to chuck the Cleaner wax it's not durable at all. The only complaint I had about Mothers was the cost.

    Oh, and don't forget not to let the 3M paste dry too long or get in the sun. Unless of course you want a hard workout. Its pretty easy to remove before it gets too hard, but a real beast if left too long. For me in the summer that's a 3 X 3 foot area in the shade. But our humidity is currently 28% so you may be able to go slightly larger.

    Dawn should remove the guck on your wife's trim. 303 is probably a good choice.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Here in Canada it costs $25 for the Mother's clay bar kit :(

    Meguiar's kit is similarly priced.

    I've never seen clay magic in retail stores here which is really irritating.

    Also, I read in another forum that somebody was using the cleaner wax that came with the mother's kit to wax the inside of the door jambs...I think that's a great use! :D
  • adennadenn Member Posts: 18
    Yeah, I was shocked when the guy at NAPA said $25 bucks. I was going to chuck the cleaner wax that came with the Mother's kit, but the idea of using it for the door jams is not bad.

    Mr. D read my mind about how long to let the 3M paste wax dry. Can says to allow to dry to COMPLETE haze, which did send a cringe through me. I am wary of two things--putting too much on and allowing it to stay on too long. Both of which lead to streaking and hard labor. Will try a few small areas first to get a feel for the coat and drying time. That way places like hood and roof do not turn into a nightmare.

    Mr. D's advice on using the Eagle One spray on the applicator for the wax was a great idea. Just a quick question--have two new bottles of Meg. Final Inspection spray and a bottle of Meg. quick detailer--would this work in place of the Eagle One?

    I am going to hit the 303 site now to order their protectant.

    Good luck with your endeavors, Protege. Speaking of, my wife's new Passat replaced her 99 Protege ES. Fine car--she previously had a 95 Protege and got the 99 for the larger engine and upgrades.
    She has a fair amount of commuting now, so she wanted a larger car with good safety features.

    Again, thanks for the comments and help.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    You definitely want to spread a thin coat. It will be easy after you've used the 3M Glaze.
  • tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    If you are willing to buy a large quantity of the 303 (which I did because I use it on a LOT of differnt stuff around the house) then ordering from 303products is the way to go. If you only want enough to try out for a while (it is fairly expensive) you might want to check with True Value Hardware. If they don't have it in stock they will order if for you with no shipping (about $10 for 16 oz. size). Be sure and tell them to check their online warehouse. They just started carrying 303 and may not know about it yet.
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    I just made a colossal, noobie mistake (and I new better). I let our local water which has loads of calcium carbonate dry on my hood in the hot sun. Horrible water spots the result. I tried Dawn followed by clay with no success. The CaCo3 is gone, but a dark ring remains. Is this damage permanent? Can anyone offer a fix?

    -David
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    What do you guys recommend? I don't mind paying for quality, but I don't want to spend a fortune either. Something in the vicinity of $30-40 for 5-10 towels. Thanks!
  • behhppbehhpp Member Posts: 51
    What would be the best treatment for a new car just off the showroom floor? I just brought home a new Corolla, and put on a light coat of Nu Finish. I love the results, but was wondering if there might have been an even better option.
    Thanks,
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    Well, what's done is done, re: Nufinish. The stuff does hold up pretty well but its too harsh for a new car. It's got alot of petroleum distillates in it - unscrew the cap and take a whiff, you'll see. If Nufinish has a strength its that it can help bring back an old paint job, hence the slur "beater wax". That's about the only positive thing I can say about the stuff.

    It's hard to find the awesome, elite products in stores. Most are available via online or mail order. Click on the links I gave above and do some research. You will learn alot about car care from those folks.

    If you want to stick with something available at retail, look at products like:
    Meguiar's Gold Class
    Meguiar's Medallion
    Eagle One Wet polish
    Mothers Reflections polish
    I'd even suggest Armor All Diamond Shine wax over Nufinish. It's not too bad for the price and you can find it everywhere.

    Those are a few of the better products out there. Sadly, most stores carry the same junk so you really have to look for the diamonds in rough but they are there. For example, I found one of my all-time fave rubber and tire dressings at KMart, Eagle One Interior-Exterior Protectant. Only $4.19 a bottle which is a steal. The stuff I usually use costs $13-20/bottle.
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    Local Automobile paint supply store.

    The online store at 3M.com

    Properautocare.com

    autobarn.com

    Napa Auto Parts stores

    Here are some other seemingly good sources.

    premiumautocare.com

    autodetail.com
  • kathyva2kathyva2 Member Posts: 3
    My husband and I just purchased a new dark blue Honda accord and are about to wash and wax it for the first time. Should we use Dawn to wash it, and then put on 3M wax?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  • alan81alan81 Member Posts: 4
    THE BEST TOWELS AND THE CHEAPEST IS JTINTERN@HOTMAIL.COM HIS NAME IS TOM GONG HIS PRICES ARE THE BEST AROUND HE SHIPS THE FASTEST
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    Don't sweat it. Just try a good cleaner like Meguiar's Cleaner Wax. That'll fix you up.
  • adennadenn Member Posts: 18
    Well, due to a host of issues, my Saturday detailing had to be postponed. Thought I would have Sunday, but the rain that was to stay to the south did not listen to the local weatherman, so here I sit.

    Tntitan--thanks for the advice. I did come across a great find in my area for high-end car car products. Called Car Crazy (carcrazy.net)--it's a small shop outside Philly that has a great selection of products like 303, Pinnacle, 3M, Meguairs professional, etc. Got a 32oz bottle of 303 protectant for $17.95! Check out their website--they have great prices and have free shipping for orders over $20.

    As for microfiber towels, I was able to get my car washed on Saturday (figures it would rain today--weather report had said Friday no rain for next five days!). Used a couple of microfiber towels I found at Bed,Bath and Beyond. While they are not premium towels like Big Blue from properautocare.com, they are nice and did a great job. Got four 16x24" for $20. Amazed as to how much water they would soak up. Also did a great job when I went over the car with detailing spray--with a little effort, they got a few water spots off.

    Will have to wait till next weekend to get out to play. Will post opinion of the new products I am trying for the first time (303, 3M glaze and wax).
  • behhppbehhpp Member Posts: 51
    Thanks for the links, and the advice on new car care. I will use up the Nu finish on my 97 Sable, and try some of the products recommended soon on my new car. The Nu Finish didn't seem to hurt my car - it actually gave it a much smoother feel. I just suspected there were better products. I used a very wet towel to apply the Nu Finish and hopefully that kept it from being too harsh. Thanks again!
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    Your plan may or not be appropriate. To check it out wash and dry the car normally. Then run your hand across the roof, hood, trunk and sides of the vehicle. It should feel as smooth as glass everywhere.

    If it doesn't, use a clay bar first. The dust on new cars contains iron filings and is particularly nasty. It should be removed immediately. Use the clay bar once or twice a year after that and
    certainly before using any machine buffer.

    I would also consider some of the mild polishes for newer cars like P21S Paintwork Cleansing Lotion, or Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion. In 2-3 years I would then consider 3M Perfect-It Glaze and Swirl Remover for Dark Cars since you will probably need something
    stronger then. Polishes add depth to the paint finish. Do not use anything that says "Paint Restorer" or "Oxydation Remover." It will be too strong for your new finish.
  • sandman46sandman46 Member Posts: 1,798
    I bought my Corolla about 1 1/2 years after it was first purchased new. The previous owner didn't take very good care of the finish, so when I bought it, I tried to wax it religiously. Unfortunately, the finish looks somewhat dull at this point. I had to replace the rear bumper in December after a hit and run, and the new bumper is glossy while the rest of the car is dull.
    What can I do to fix this situation. Please help me with some simple products to use that can be all done by hand and which won't break the bank. I would like to purchase all products at either a Walmart or Pep Boys or other retail outfit.
    Thanks for all the help and sorry to be so long winded!

    The Sandman
  • britton2britton2 Member Posts: 305
    My suggestion would be either Meguiar's or Mother's 3 step system - you can find these at Pep Boys, Advance Auto Parts, etc -
  • daverosedaverose Member Posts: 233
    Get your paint as clean as you can. Foremost, use plush, 100% made in USA, white cotton towels in both the loops/nap and backing, with little or no decorative patterns in them from a bath store or department store to dust, wash, dry, apply protectant of your choice, and to wipe off your protectant and to buff. Some would advocate that you use microfiber towels.

    Wash the car with blue Dawn brand (or equivalent) dishwashing soap, thoroughly rinse, clay and dry, then evaluate by inspecting you paint closely at an angle from your strongest source of light. If your paint has water spots, you need to try removing them by soaking them with white vinegar-soaked cotton balls and wiping. If paint came off on your towel (if that IS the case, let's hope the white pigment is different enough from your towels to detect), it has oxidized and that should be removed with some reputable brand of polishing glaze. If that is not satisfactory or glaze is not among the things available from where you want to buy, your would try a reputable brand of polish, polishing compound, or "cleaner wax" until the paint is evenly reflective. If this effort does not work, I would consult a reputable detailer to try to attain clean, evenly reflective paint. Once this is achieved, apply your polymer or carnauba wax of choice per instructions. Assuming your waxing was really religious, at least two or three times a year for an garaged vehicle, more for an exposed vehicle, return to your previous pattern of care. Use the companion soap to your protectant to wash.

    Technique: Dust your car by holding hand or bath size towels by the corners and drag them across the panels; i.e., use gravity on the horizontal panels and just the pressure of the cloth against vertical panels to catch and remove the dust.

    Thoroughly rinse then wash the car using a hand size towel wrapped around a sponge; turn the towel frequently. Your energy should be much more side-to-side then against the paint in all stages.

    Thoroughly rinse and either dry your vehicle or clay; i.e., just insure that you minimize contact between the Dawn water and the clay. Clay horizontal surfaces first to learn the feel, if it is new to you.

    Apply your polymer/polish/wax with front-to-back strokes on horizontal surfaces, and up-and-down strokes on vertical surfaces; this minimizes the appearance of swirl marks.

    Wipe off/buff with clean towel surfaces.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Since I suspect you have some oxidation, and are limiting choices to hand usage products and store bought I would do the following.

    Wash with Dawn

    3M Tar and Wax remover (I just bought a spray can at my Wally World Store)

    Clay Bar of Choice.

    Meguiars Clear Coat Body Scrub Paint Cleaner(red bottle). This will chemically remove stains and oxidation. Nothing in store bought products does the same thing.

    Meguiars #9 Swirl Remover 2.0 if needed to remove light scratches and swirl marks. If I have light scratches, this is one of my favorite products.

    Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze to add nourishing oils and polish to the paint surface. It will add depth to the shine as well.

    Top with Meguiars #26 Hard Yellow. Comes in both Liquid and Paste. Liquid easier to apply and remove, but Paste is much more economical and IMO lasts a bit longer.

    I would also consider 3M Perfect-It Show Car Paste Wax,(NAPA Auto) even if you have to order it from the Internet. The online store at www.3m.com currently has free shipping. This wax is more durable, and looks just as good.
  • mpynempyne Member Posts: 120
    is this stuff worth using??
  • britton2britton2 Member Posts: 305
    it's definitely worth using IMO - I love it - it is a time-saver too because you don't have to dry your car and then use a quick detail spray or spray wax as a separate step - just wash your car, spray with the Eagle One and dry - leaves a nice gloss - just follow the directions on the back (shake well) -
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Anyone have any experience with Stoner's Speed Bead or Bead Max? It looks like it might be a good product for family members who don't spend much time on their cars. Here is the situation:

    I have already clayed/Medallion Cleaner/#7/Medallion Premium Paint Protectant their cars this summer. The challenge is to keep the cars protected through the winter (without me doing the work). I could get them to apply a few more coats of MPPP probably (maybe one a month as they wash about that often) or they could apply Speed Bead followed by Bead Max since Speed Bead has cleaners/polish to remove any remaining MPPP and the Bead Max doesn't so it can be layered. Also, the Stoner's sounds easier to apply so that means there is more chance that they would actually do it.

    So I am wondering if 3-4 coats applied over 3-4 months of MPPP would be better than 2-3 coats of Stoner's applied over 2-3 months before winter. Which do you think would last longer? How long has Stoner's lasted for those who have used it?

    My personal plan is to build up 2-3 coats of MPPP and then 1-2 coats of #26 before winter. However, I am likely to wash my car in the winter and apply an extra coat of #26. My hose puts out heated water, so that really helps when it's cold... :)
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    MPPP doesn't have abrasives that is for the Medalion Premium Paint Cleaner. Gurureports.com in their initial test did not find that it held up well. But they didn't use the Paint Cleaner before they applied the MPPP. I'll bet multiple layers should improve durability.

    I always top a polymer or acrylic finish with a Carnauba like #26 so you won't find an argument from me there.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    for your non OCD relatives? You don't want to remove the extra protection MPPP offers and replace it with a super quick wax which won't be as durable.

    Luckly, my relatives all have garages to 3M Perfect-It Show Car Wax really works well for them for an entire 6 months.
  • mpynempyne Member Posts: 120
    regarding the eagle 1 how durable does it seem?
    i bought some for my girlfriends car but thought i might try it. it says its a wax and polymer. have you noticed if it lasts for a long time?
    thanks
  • britton2britton2 Member Posts: 305
    well, let me describe it this way - I wash my car about every 10 days - and I have been using the Wax as U Dry each time for the last couple of months - when I hose down my car prior to applying the suds I am amazed that the water is beading like it is - I am not saying it will provide the same protection as a paste wax, but for a spray wax it certainly has impressed me..I also mix whatever car wash I am using (such as Eagle One's) with a small amount of One Grand's Wash and Wax, so my car wash mixture has a tiny amount of wax in it as well - I think you'll like it - give it a try.
  • terceltom1terceltom1 Member Posts: 150
    I also have a 2001 Black Corolla and I have been using Nu-finish(liquid)for years on all my cars with excellant results. This stuff seems to hold up forever. I have never seen any harmful effects what so ever with Nu-finish. Also, keep in mind for years Consumer Reports has recommended Nu-Finish #1 in car protectants. I doubt if they would recommend it if it was harmful. Besides, whoever said petroleum distillates would harm a new car anyway?
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    I've used it a few times. Stained my trim badly and the shine was lackluster.

    It did *seem* to hold up for a long time, but it's tough to say as I used it to prep for the winter.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Thanks for the reply. I guess I was of the impression that the SpeedBead laid the foundation for the BeadMax. It sounded like the kind of thing that needed to bond right on the paint (like Klasse or something, except in a spray can and a bit more dubious...) I guess I'll just have them add more layers of MPPP then. It is pretty easy to use. They all have garages too...
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    If you like NuFinish and its doing everything you want it to, then I think that's fine. It's your car so use the products you like and are happy with.

    There's no question NuFinish has strong cleaning ability, both from solvents and abrasives. This is OK to use on an old car that needs some sprucing up but I think it's far too harsh for a new car. The fact that its protective abilities are decent do not overshadow its aggressiveness.

    Car care products that are high in petroleum distillates will dry out the plasticizers in the clearcoat over time. The clearcoat is a complex mix of chemicals designed to protect the color coat under a variety of harsh conditions. It's something that needs a product that will help maintain its shine and strength. I don't see Nufinish's harsh cleaners doing that.

    The last wax comparo from Consumer Reports was May 2000 where Nufinish placed 3rd. Since CR tends to test whatever is widely available at retail for a reasonable price, the competitors in that test were mostly waxes and polishes costing under $10. The products that are the best for your car are rarely available at retail and cost a bit more than $10. Point is, you get what you pay for. I saw NuFinish at my local WalMart for less than $5.00. If that's your budget and it works for you then all the rest of this stuff doesn't matter.

    Regardless of what we use, I'd rather see clean, shiny cars on the road than dirty, dull ones.
  • britton2britton2 Member Posts: 305
    You mentioned that clearcoat was a complex mix of chemicals - isn't the clearcoat just paint without any pigment? At least that was my understanding - I have never used Nu-Finish but know of a couple of people that do and they seem to like it alot - my car is 16 months old as is kept garaged when I'm not driving it - at what point do you suggest I used a paint cleaner or polish on my car? I read somewhere that a new car doesn't need polishing for the first 2 years but it seems like alot of people use it on new cars anyway...thanks
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Paint is a complex mix of chemicals... So even if clearcoat is just uncolored paint, his statement would still be true. However, I believe the basecoat and clearcoat do have some differences as they serve different functions. If nothing else, the basecoat has to have a color carrier.
  • loyolaloyola Member Posts: 26
    Is this the same one that I see at Nissan vehicles that looked like as they're peeling off. Those clearcoats are great, my neighbor just uses Armor All to clean his black Nissan Maxima.

    Both of my vehicles are Toyota (92 Camry White and 98 Sienna Black). Sienna doesn't have a clearcoat.

    I use Klaase on both topped with Pinnacle Souveran only on the black Sienna.This combo is IMO the best, sometimes I dont want to use the van anymore.

    No need to wax the Camry for you not will achieve any deeper luster. Maintained using Wipe and Shine and Klaase once a week.

    Nu-Finish-- outstanding, incredible, fantastic
    product... Use it for my alloy wheels.
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    My gray Dodge seemed to have a cloudy appearance on the hood. Couldn't figure out what it was, until yesterday. I didn't get to clean the cars until evening. After washing as I drove out, the setting sun showed up water spots that didn't show up on the wet surface when I was washing.

    A fast application of Quick Detailer took out the water spots easily. The hood now looks as good as the rest of the car. Would have been a mess if wax had gone on top of those spots.

    I'll be watching closely for water spots on the hood from now on. The extra heat from the engine can play havoc with the paint.
  • adennadenn Member Posts: 18
    Found the time this weekend to detail the exterior plastic and rubber on my wife's 2002 Passat with 303 Protectant. First time I had used the product and I am very pleased. Used a foam pad to put it on--little of it goes a long way. Then used a MF towel to buff off excess. Leaves a nice finish--nothing glossy or oily looking--really enhances the look of what you are using it on. My wife had been skeptical about the money I spent for 303, but once she saw how the detail came out, she was very pleased. Maybe this will increase my detailing budget! I just wonder now how often I should put this on the exterior? I was figuring every six to eight weeks. Any thoughts from those who use 303?

    Have also been just recently using MF towels. Can't say enough about them--do a great job of drying and love them to do a final coat of Meg's Final Inspection after washing. The one thing I did find out was that I do not have enough towels! Going to order ten more 16x16 from Tom at JT International for $26--priority shipping included.

    Still looking for a time to Dawn, clay, polish and wax. College football is only a month away, so I had better hurry.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    I've been searching the Autopia boards for posts on Blackfire. Many, many, many posts that say "there is the possible longevity issue" but I couldn't find one single post of someone who actually had a longevity issue. Plus, CMA seems to think it lasts (although they make it). However, I'm too intimidated to post there because I will surely get a barrage of "just do a search for it" which I have already done. Has anyone who has actually used it noticed a problem with it lasting? Or can any of you autopians point me to a test of it (other than The Wax Test)?

    I sort of wonder if the longevity has just become an urban legend that everyone keeps repeating. Or maybe the fact that it sheets instead of beading (which seems dopey to me) leads people to think it isn't there anymore. It really sounds like an intriguing product (although I just ordered some #26 to top my MPPP with) especially since my car is a darkish red. But if it doesn't outlast the MPPP or #26 then it becomes a bit harder to justify the expense. Thanks for any firsthand info!
  • mazadimazadi Member Posts: 26
    anyone have a favorite clay bar? is there any benefit to using one type over another or are they all the same?

    My wife will be out of town this weekend so it gives me the perfect chance to put a great shine on the cars.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    I've only used Mother's so far, but I like it a lot.

    Only problem I can forsee with it, is that they don't just sell the bars alone, and therefore, if you want more bars, you HAVE to buy the entire kit. The only way around this is to order direct from Mothers and then IIRC, you can buy 3 bars by themselves.
  • tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    The longevity issue is relative. Compared to Klasse and Zaino (which everyone pretty much concedes to lasting 6+ months) the Blackfire only lasts maybe 3-4 months if your car is outside 24/7. This is what I have been able to gather by reading everywhere.

    My personal experience is this. I applied Blackfire about 4 weeks ago when it was 95 degrees with about 85% humidity. Washed, clayed, one coat of Blackfire polish and 2 coats of Blackfire protectant. It only took 2 hours to do the polish and 2 coats of protectant on my wife's Honda CRV. I don't know if it will last 3 months, 4 months, or 6 months and I really don't care because it is so easy to use that I am sure that I will never wait that long to reapply anyway. Wipe on, wipe off. It is that simple. No waiting between coats, no hazing, no trim stains, no problems.

    How long it lasts will depend on so many things it is hard to quantify. The climate, time of daily exposure, washing methods and frequency and many other factors play a major role in the longevity of any wax or protectant.

    It is all a matter of personal preference. The Blackfire is easy and fast to use, works well in hot humid weather, and gives a deep wet looking shine that lasts better than carnuba wax. That is what I was looking for so Blackfire is just right for me.
  • beachnutbeachnut Member Posts: 291
    tntitan, you've just about convinced me to try the Blackfire! Let me throw this question out though: a previous poster remarked about sheeting vs. beading. I'm not sure why I'm hung up on this beading thing - I guess I see it as a sign that I've got a good coat of glaze (or wax) and it gives me cues down the road as to when I need to detail again. Am I all washed up here? (pun intended!)
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