I use MF's to apply and remove waxes and polishes, to detail my car with detail sprays, to wash my windows, to dust my interior, and to dry my car. They're great towels for all kinds of uses. Only thing I don't use them for is greasy duty as I don't want to ruin them.
I had time the last few weekends and waxed my new black vehicle. I washed with Meguiar's Gold Class, dried with absorber and MF towel, and applied Mequiar's #20 (polymer/sealent). (This is where I am seeking comments.) After letting the polymer/sealent cure, I added Mequiar's Gold Class wax and let it dry overnight before wiping off with MF towel. It looks good to me but my wife commented, " I cannot tell a difference / better shine since the wax has been added." I thought the wax would add a deeper shine to a dark vehicle. Should I have used a gloss rather than a wax? Also, I have learned that Klasse is pretty good stuff will use it in the future. However, since I have all this Mequiar product(s)I am hoping to use it before purchising anything else.
Your routine was a good choice, by putting down the sealant for durability then the Carnauba for looks.
In the spring, get some #7 Show Car Glaze or S100 Gloss Ehnancing Cleaner from a motorcycle shop and put it down before you use the #20. It will then get a deeper shine.
Don't forget to use a clay bar before putting on the Glaze. That improves Clarity a lot.
Letting a Carnauba dry a long time means extra work for you to remove. Some sealants can be left on longer, but with a Carnauba just let it dry to a haze then wipe off.
I thought it looked great. Then drove with my wife for a meeting. When we came out the light was just perfect. The car seemed to glow. When I commented on how different and how good it looked, she simply said "Well, I expect it to always look good." And that was it.
There isn't much carnauba in GC but there are some cleaners (mechanical and chemical) in it. My feeling is the GC removed some of the #20. So I don't think there is much of a benefit of topping #20 with GC unless it's a look you really like. Frankly, the only reason to top a polymer with a carnauba is for looks.
GC is pretty good stuff for a one-step but will not offer the durability of #20. However, #20 needs to be preceded by some polishing to get the paint in really good shape prior to use. There are some cleaners in #20 but not much.
After my trip to SEMA last week my opinion of GC and Meguiar's in general dropped several notches. If it were me I'd use up the GC and the #20 and move on to something else.
I have 4-5 hours to claybar, put on meguires #7, then top off with #26. I was not expecting this much time in a heated garage while at work, I am not as prepared as I would like to be. Will this combo get me by for the winter until I get the new black fire ? I guess I should tell you about the car I have. It's an 02 forester, deep red. Up till now I have used Zymol cleaner wax 3-4 times in a 5 month period. Sorry to drag on, hope this is enough. Thanks
Should hold you for 60 -- 90 days depending on the conditions. If your name is accurate, it should last long enough for Blackfire. If you get Blackfire and want to top it with a Carnauba, I would recommend P21S. But Blackfire by itself is Awesome. Just make sure that you apply it in very thin coats. The instructions say a nickle size amount should be used. WAAAY too much. This is a sealant that wants to be applied thinly. 4-6 small dollops around the outside of the orbital pad, and 1-2 if you use a hand applicator.
Really, I live in the midwest, the name comes from the county and the best college bb in the nation. I've learned much from your posts here and on other boards. I hope to have a dazzling shine with uv protection to boot.
this is a product which supposedly alleviates you from having to wax for up to 6 years (!!), and guarantees to protect the finish from acid rain, tree sap, and all the lot. Is this bunk or are they for real?
Those "never wax your car again" scams have been around for decades. I remember Polyglycoat from the 70's.
If you read the fine print they usually say to keep your warranty valid the product needs to be reapplied or "freshened" once a year. So in practice this makes those products no different than any other polymer sealant on the market.
You can go to a place like NAPA and buy a bottle of Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #20 Polymer Sealant, apply it yourself, and get the same protection.
Every 2-3 months or so, I detail my car using a clay bar, Meguiars #9 Swirl Remover, and Meguiars Gold Class. I am generally happy with the results, although I haven't been able to get rid of the swirls at all; so I'm thinking of investing in a Rotary Buffer.
Does anyone have any advice on what kind of Rotary Buffer to buy...and how to properly use a Rotary Buffer...I have never used one and really have no idea what I'm doing; so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I can advise that you don't buy one. If you don't know what you are doing, you can cause substantial damage to your paint. Try a random-orbit buffer first. They are able to fix many problems that you can't fix by hand, and are very safe. It's almost impossible to damage the paint with one. Also, they are very versatile and can be used for applying tough cleaners, and also for gently applying a pure wax or sealant.
There are some cheapy RO buffers, but they don't tend to develop much speed, and so they probably wouldn't be very helpful for your swirl problem. Porter-Cable and DeWalt make reasonably-priced random-orbit buffers that have good speed settings, are adjustable, and they are tough machines that will probably last a lifetime.
A rotary is not something a total novice should tackle, unless you are incredibly brave or have some old clunkers to practice on. The potential for serious damage is very high. I learned how to use a rotary from an auto painter and worked on old trunk lids and hoods; I highly suggest a tutor and a lot of practice.
A high quality DA polisher like the Porter Cable 7424 is more than adequate for us car nuts. They are serious tools and are very versatile. And they're easy to use and master. I have a PC and love it. I can do about 90% of what a rotary can do. A wide selection of pads and polishes will allow you to get terrific results.
Like many others have been mentioned a Random Orbital Buffer like the Porter Cable should do what you want for light scratches.
Good products to remove swirls are 3M Swirl Mark Remover, Meguiars #9, or if they are a little heavier Meguiar's Dual Action Cleaner Polish (Miraculous IMO), or 3M Cleaner Wax Medium Oxidation Remover. I'm sure there are other good products, but these are the ones I'm familiar with.
I've used #9 both by hand and by buffer, and the difference in the results with the machine is phenomenal. Good deep cleaning really needs a machine.
Remember that if a scratch is deep enough to catch a fingernail is needs a paint repair job, not a polish.
That's a new one on me. I think you mean Meguiar's Gold Class.
Gold Class is a pretty decent $10 wax. It leaves an excellent shine but won't last too long, especially in the summertime. I give it 4-6 weeks before most protection is gone.
It's hard to find an inexpensive store-bought wax that will hold up in harsh sunlight. The best products are polymer sealants which can withstand the high surface temps and still offer protection.
One you may want to consider is Blackfire which is sold by a Tampa-based company called Classic Motoring Accessories. Website is http://www.properautocare.com . Blackfire was developed in Florida so they know intimately the challenges of paint protection. It's worth checking out.
I will check it out. I had another knowledgeble person (it seems everyone has their own opinion on this) tell me today that they think waxing a car is hard on the finish because you are rubbing the paint. So if a polymer will last longer maybe that is the way to go...
Expect a Gold Class to last 6 weeks in cooler weather, no longer than 4 in strong sun and heat.
I guarantee that NOT waxing the finish is much harder on it than waxing it. I car a purchased a couple of years ago had a pink glow to the paint. When I removed the oxidation, it was a bright red. Hasn't changed since with proper care. This car is outside all the time.
The rubbing issue is valid only if there is grit under the applicator. That's why I always clay before doing any polishing whatsoever.
is it really that critical with a relatively new paint job? For protection, it sounds like a polymer might be better, it is hard to stay motivated to wax a car every 4 weeks!
Put your hand into a plastic baggie and lightly rub the flat surfaces like the hood and roof. If you feel roughness that means there are surface contaminents on your paint that need to be removed. Detailing clay does this.
I'm sure the next question you have is what to buy and where to buy it. There are several excellent brands available: Mothers, Clay Magic, Eagle One, Griots Garage. Most of the detailing clays are virtually the same so buy whatever one is convenient. The only clay I do not like is Meguiar's - too soft and sticky. Look for detailing clay at any well-stocked auto parts store (Pep Boys, Auto Zone, NAPA) or buy online.
You must use a lubricant with the clay so its best to buy a clay kit that includes a bottle of spray lubricant. It will cost you about $10 minimum.
if Edmunds were to have a contest of most helpful and knowledgable board members, you would certainly have my vote when it comes to knowledge on the detailing/ car care issues.
I could tell that the last post was yours without even looking at your signature.
I have a problem with bird droppings as I live in Florida. Should I just use water and a cloth to remove this, or do you think it is better to use a "quick detailing" product like Meguiar's with wax in it?
And it can be dangerous stuff to your paint. Goal #1 is to get it off ASAP, if not sooner. Bird doo is acidic and will etch your clearcoat if allow to sit.
You need a product that will neutralize the acidity of the doo. The easiest and cheapest way I know of is to use Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) and water mixed 50/50. Douse the doo area thoroughly and let it sit (don't wipe). The alcohol will draw out the acid from the doo. After a few minutes do it again. A few minutes later you can use the mix and a soft towel to remove the solids (ewwwwww!).
A mix of baking soda and water would also do the trick as it accomplishes the same task. So if you're at home and can whip up a quick mix, try that. On the road you should have a bottle of IPA mix and a few towels in the trunk.
Timing is critical here. The chances for etching are high. But you've got to remove the acids before you repolish and wax the area.
Oh, and do not use quick detail spray. They contain silicones (usually) that will actually seal in the acids then bake them into the paint when combine with heat. Not a good thing.
Now of course this is a widely discussed issue, but if you want to use a sealant, the most gentle one I've found so far is Blackfire. The new Blackfire Paint Protectant is the ONLY liquid, either carnauba or polymer, I've tried where color did not come up on my red Mazda with a conventional coat. Seriously with this fussy paint you can sneeze wrong and color will come up.
I've had Blackfire on this car for 2 months and am impressed with the results. Just last Friday when my wife went to work a friend came up and asked if we had just repainted the car.
Top it about 3 weeks later with a Carnauba like P21S and you'll find a brilliant shine.
mix I have never heard of. I will get some in a spritzer and carry it with me, my guess is that I will be using it every day. Maybe thanks to your help I will once again be able to wish peace to our feathered friends, and maybe I won't need that NRA membership and hunter's license.
Mrdetailer, my primary concern is protection, not shine. The reason, I have an outdoor car and in three days the best shine is once again dirty. I want the car to look as good in five years as it does now. Just so I am sure I am understanding you correctly, if I wash with an automotive soap, then follow with Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection, am I on the right path? Then, if I want to also use a carnuba wax after later washes that would be fine and maybe bring out more shine? And then maybe some detailing clay between the wash and the wax?
I am one of the downtrodden, an apartment dweller. So when I wash my car it is at the car wash. I get there early and go to one that is not crowded, take a bay and then hand wash and wax. If I was washing the car in my yard I might take more time, but in my case I want to get out in a couple hours. I see Blackfire recommends the Gloss Enhancing Polish. I have a 2003 GT and want to keep it nice. Is the polish necessary? Again my goal is protection. Thank you!
I have their shampoo, polish, and protectant. Frankly I cannot tell much of a diff between the polish and protectant but that might have changed a bit since CMA slightly reformulated it.
At a minumim you need: *Cotton chenille wash mitt (two) *Dedicated 5 gallon bucket *A large waffle weave microfiber towel for drying *Detailing clay of your choice *Detail spray of your choice *Shampoo *Mild polish to remove swirls and light scratches *Protectant/sealant
That along with the usual glass cleaner, wheel cleaner, tire dressing, etc will make up your detailing arsenal. Budget $200 for all that.
I bucket-washed at coin op joints for years. It was never a big problem except for the many quarters I pumped into those machines. But you can do most of what a homeowner can do. You'll just need to develop a system that's time efficient otherwise you'll go bankrupt using all those quarters.
You said Mrdetailer, my primary concern is protection, not shine. The reason, I have an outdoor car and in three days the best shine is once again dirty. I want the car to look as good in five years as it does now. Just so I am sure I am understanding you correctly, if I wash with an automotive soap, then follow with Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection, am I on the right path? Then, if I want to also use a carnauba wax after later washes that would be fine and maybe bring out more shine?
And then maybe some detailing clay between the wash and the wax?
I share your frustration. Most of my cars are outside all of the time too. At least you don't have to deal with snow.
Twice a year Strip off the wax. I use 3M Adhesive Sap and Wax remover from Walmart.
Then use the clay bar and appropriate polishes If you're going to use Blackfire, P21S Gloss Enhancing Polish, or Meguiars Machine Glaze are good choices, as are 3M Polishes. Terry told me that all of these can go under Blackfire.
You should not have to do these steps more than twice a year.
If you want to add Blackfire use the Gloss Ehnancing polish as a prep surface. It actually looks better on top of a traditional glaze/polish. Then apply at least 3 coats of Blackfire Paint Protectant 3-7 days apart at a minimum. The new Paint Protectant is definitely different and much superior to their prior formula IMO.
Now if you want to just stop there you car will be well protected for at least 3 months. Longer if you use the Blackfire Shampoo and Quick Detailer. This will be a good choice if you wish to stay with one product line.
P21S has a fairly unique ability to keep dust down better than anything I have seen. It also looks great on top of Blackfire. However if you do that you can't add any more BF unless the carnauba layer is worn out. So you would have to re wax at regular intervals and use a Carnauba Quick Detailer. Blackfire soap will also help strip off Carnauba so it shouldn't be used if the Carnauba is on top.
This is my variation of information directly from CMA.
I have a brand new 2003 Honda Ody(Sandstone/Beige) and I would like to put on a protectant / polish that will last the longest. The car is only a week old so I do not think I will need to clay the finish. What product whold the guru's suggest?
It sounds like you want what is known as a "one step" product, meaning it has some cleaning/polishing ability along with protection. Most of the stuff you see on store shelves are one step's. And most are pretty comparable in terms of performance.
The best one step I know of is Klasse All In One. It's not really available at retail but several online retailers sell. It's been around for years and is a well known product.
Thanks for the info. Of the 'retail' products is there ones I should stay away from? Last thing I want to do is degrade the looks or lifespan of the current finish.
I use Speed Bead by Stoner, you spray it on, let it dry and wipe off. My son used this on his 2003 deep blue Toyota last week and he can't stop looking at it or telling his friends about this product. We describe the shine on the cars as being a "wet look" or having a candy apple shine on them.
If you want to spend all day waxing and polishing your car, don't use this product because it is just fast and easy. Did I mention how smooth the paint feels? Well, my van is so smooth it feels like glass.
If you are interested in this go to www.moreshine.com and you can locate some stores that sell it or buy it on line from them direct. They also sell Max Bead which is just a wax and does not have any cleaners in it. I have not tried that product since I like a product that removes tar and road grime in one step.
I'm not much of a fan of what is being sold at national retail. Sure, there are a few diamonds in the rough but for the most part retail buyers are looking for companies who are willing to spend $$ on marketing and product positioning. They have a pricing/product matrix to complete and are going to do business with those companies who are willing to undercut their competitors for shelf space.
Most of the products in a certain price point are about the same in terms of performance. It's almost a coin toss as to which is better (or worse). About the only product I like that's sold at retail is Meguiar's Gold Class. It gives a nice shine but it's durability is modest - 8 weeks give or take.
About spray waxes - they are fine if you want a quick, short term shine. Their durability can be measured in days, even hours if the car is sitting in the summer sun. Most are made of silicone mixture (hence the shine and slickness), solvents that provide a little surface cleaning power, maybe a smidge of wax, and alcohol. If your car needs any amount of polishing to remove swirls, stains, dullness, or surface defects, the spray waxes don't cut it. Kiss the shine bye-bye after the first wash. But on a brand new car they look great.
If you don't want to order a product, there are two Meguiar's products that have good durability and are easy one-steps. One is #20 Polymer Sealant. The other is Medallion Premium Paint Protection. You can probably find both at a place like Pep Boys. I bet some people here can tell you good experiences with #20 (I've never used it). I find MPPP to be an excellent all-in-one product. It has decent cleaning ability while still being gentle, and it gives a great shine. The depth isn't the best, but your car is sandstone. Meguiar's claims it is their longest lasting protectant (although I'd think #20 would be similar) and it was pretty durable for me. It seems to easily go 3+ months, and depending on garaging and such it may go 6 or more. It's also real easy to apply and buff off. Let it sit a few hours and it takes no effort at all to buff.
Well done, rjs. Those two slipped my mind. You're on the money with MPPP. #20 has a very mild cleaner in it but I would not depend on that. What it will do is leave a nice gloss and be fairly durable. The only place I know I've seen it is NAPA.
I think NuFinish is a mixed bag at best. It does seem to provide decent protection but it doesn't last nearly as long as they say; maybe 3 months. The big problem I have with it is it's very strong solvent cleaners. The smell will knock you over. It doesn't contain a lot of abrasives but all the solvents more than make up for it. I do not like strong solvent products on paint as they eventually dry out the plasticizers in the clearcoat which can lead to oxidation and failure. Since there are many good products on the market I see no sensible reason to use NuFinish. Just my two cents.
Your vehicle is new so you don't have to worry about swirl marks. You titled yourself as"lazy owner" just like I am, polishing/waxing your vehicle can be turned into a weekend job that you are not likely to want to do again.
I put Speed Bead on my van on August 3, 2002 and it is still has that same shine and feels smooth. If your paint has swirl marks and needs more then of course you will need a different product. If you stay away from automatic car washes and wash it yourself, swirl marks won't be a big problem.
Thanks for all the replies. I will do some research on the three (#20, MPPP, and Speed Bead)and let you know how it goes. I may also order the Klasse and wait. My primary considerations are protection, durability, and ease of use. I know that I will only get around to 'waxing' once or twice a year, so durability is probably my highest priority. I live in So. California and the weather is very moderate and the Ody will be garaged so I can probably get by with once or twice a year.
If you're close to Orange County check out Detailing Depot in Costa Mesa. It's on Newport Blvd and 21st St. I visit OC several times a year and always stop in there to buy stuff. It's car detailer's heaven. They are a Meguiar's distributor and carry every product from them imaginable. They also distribute Autoglym which is good stuff from England.
Ask Marco what he recommends and pick up a few supplies while you're there.
Can't think of one but I'll ask some folks I know there.
IMO, #20 will last longer as its designed for durability. MPPP is a nice overall product that does most stuff well; better cleaner, more carnauba-like shine, supposed to repel dust. On a light colored car many times a polymer sealant like #20 gives a glossier shine. So it's almost a toss up between them.
IMHO you would be hard pressed to beat Klasse. It looks brilliant on my wife's white 2002 CRV-EX and I believe from all that I have read at Autopia that it will easily last 6 months.
Comments
I had time the last few weekends and waxed my new black vehicle. I washed with Meguiar's Gold Class, dried with absorber and MF towel, and applied Mequiar's #20 (polymer/sealent). (This is where I am seeking comments.) After letting the polymer/sealent cure, I added Mequiar's Gold Class wax and let it dry overnight before wiping off with MF towel. It looks good to me but my wife commented, " I cannot tell a difference / better shine since the wax has been added." I thought the wax would add a deeper shine to a dark vehicle. Should I have used a gloss rather than a wax? Also, I have learned that Klasse is pretty good stuff will use it in the future. However, since I have all this Mequiar product(s)I am hoping to use it before purchising anything else.
In the spring, get some #7 Show Car Glaze or S100 Gloss Ehnancing Cleaner from a motorcycle shop and put it down before you use the #20. It will then get a deeper shine.
Don't forget to use a clay bar before putting on the Glaze. That improves Clarity a lot.
Letting a Carnauba dry a long time means extra work for you to remove. Some sealants can be left on longer, but with a Carnauba just let it dry to a haze then wipe off.
It's the glaze/polish step that gets you the shine, but if you stopped there, it wouldn't last.
BTW-My wife probably would have made a similar comment. 8~)
GC is pretty good stuff for a one-step but will not offer the durability of #20. However, #20 needs to be preceded by some polishing to get the paint in really good shape prior to use. There are some cleaners in #20 but not much.
After my trip to SEMA last week my opinion of GC and Meguiar's in general dropped several notches. If it were me I'd use up the GC and the #20 and move on to something else.
www.permafinish.com
If you read the fine print they usually say to keep your warranty valid the product needs to be reapplied or "freshened" once a year. So in practice this makes those products no different than any other polymer sealant on the market.
You can go to a place like NAPA and buy a bottle of Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #20 Polymer Sealant, apply it yourself, and get the same protection.
Does anyone have any advice on what kind of Rotary Buffer to buy...and how to properly use a Rotary Buffer...I have never used one and really have no idea what I'm doing; so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
There are some cheapy RO buffers, but they don't tend to develop much speed, and so they probably wouldn't be very helpful for your swirl problem. Porter-Cable and DeWalt make reasonably-priced random-orbit buffers that have good speed settings, are adjustable, and they are tough machines that will probably last a lifetime.
A pretty good place to start research on a buffer. The Porter-Cable Griots offers is one of the better models available.
A high quality DA polisher like the Porter Cable 7424 is more than adequate for us car nuts. They are serious tools and are very versatile. And they're easy to use and master. I have a PC and love it. I can do about 90% of what a rotary can do. A wide selection of pads and polishes will allow you to get terrific results.
Here's some links to peruse:
http://www.properautocare.com/bufpol.html
http://www.topoftheline.com/deteq.html
http://www.coastaltool.com (Click on "polishers")
Good products to remove swirls are 3M Swirl Mark Remover, Meguiars #9, or if they are a little heavier Meguiar's Dual Action Cleaner Polish (Miraculous IMO), or 3M Cleaner Wax Medium Oxidation Remover. I'm sure there are other good products, but these are the ones I'm familiar with.
I've used #9 both by hand and by buffer, and the difference in the results with the machine is phenomenal. Good deep cleaning really needs a machine.
Remember that if a scratch is deep enough to catch a fingernail is needs a paint repair job, not a polish.
Gold Class is a pretty decent $10 wax. It leaves an excellent shine but won't last too long, especially in the summertime. I give it 4-6 weeks before most protection is gone.
It's hard to find an inexpensive store-bought wax that will hold up in harsh sunlight. The best products are polymer sealants which can withstand the high surface temps and still offer protection.
One you may want to consider is Blackfire which is sold by a Tampa-based company called Classic Motoring Accessories. Website is http://www.properautocare.com . Blackfire was developed in Florida so they know intimately the challenges of paint protection. It's worth checking out.
You'd be hard pressed to scratch your paint with a good microfiber towel, IMO.
I guarantee that NOT waxing the finish is much harder on it than waxing it. I car a purchased a couple of years ago had a pink glow to the paint. When I removed the oxidation, it was a bright red. Hasn't changed since with proper care. This car is outside all the time.
The rubbing issue is valid only if there is grit under the applicator. That's why I always clay before doing any polishing whatsoever.
Put your hand into a plastic baggie and lightly rub the flat surfaces like the hood and roof. If you feel roughness that means there are surface contaminents on your paint that need to be removed. Detailing clay does this.
I'm sure the next question you have is what to buy and where to buy it. There are several excellent brands available: Mothers, Clay Magic, Eagle One, Griots Garage. Most of the detailing clays are virtually the same so buy whatever one is convenient. The only clay I do not like is Meguiar's - too soft and sticky. Look for detailing clay at any well-stocked auto parts store (Pep Boys, Auto Zone, NAPA) or buy online.
You must use a lubricant with the clay so its best to buy a clay kit that includes a bottle of spray lubricant. It will cost you about $10 minimum.
I could tell that the last post was yours without even looking at your signature.
You made my day
You need a product that will neutralize the acidity of the doo. The easiest and cheapest way I know of is to use Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) and water mixed 50/50. Douse the doo area thoroughly and let it sit (don't wipe). The alcohol will draw out the acid from the doo. After a few minutes do it again. A few minutes later you can use the mix and a soft towel to remove the solids (ewwwwww!).
A mix of baking soda and water would also do the trick as it accomplishes the same task. So if you're at home and can whip up a quick mix, try that. On the road you should have a bottle of IPA mix and a few towels in the trunk.
Timing is critical here. The chances for etching are high. But you've got to remove the acids before you repolish and wax the area.
Oh, and do not use quick detail spray. They contain silicones (usually) that will actually seal in the acids then bake them into the paint when combine with heat. Not a good thing.
I've had Blackfire on this car for 2 months and am impressed with the results. Just last Friday when my wife went to work a friend came up and asked if we had just repainted the car.
Top it about 3 weeks later with a Carnauba like P21S and you'll find a brilliant shine.
Mrdetailer, my primary concern is protection, not shine. The reason, I have an outdoor car and in three days the best shine is once again dirty. I want the car to look as good in five years as it does now. Just so I am sure I am understanding you correctly, if I wash with an automotive soap, then follow with Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection, am I on the right path? Then, if I want to also use a carnuba wax after later washes that would be fine and maybe bring out more shine?
And then maybe some detailing clay between the wash and the wax?
At a minumim you need:
*Cotton chenille wash mitt (two)
*Dedicated 5 gallon bucket
*A large waffle weave microfiber towel for drying
*Detailing clay of your choice
*Detail spray of your choice
*Shampoo
*Mild polish to remove swirls and light scratches
*Protectant/sealant
That along with the usual glass cleaner, wheel cleaner, tire dressing, etc will make up your detailing arsenal. Budget $200 for all that.
I bucket-washed at coin op joints for years. It was never a big problem except for the many quarters I pumped into those machines. But you can do most of what a homeowner can do. You'll just need to develop a system that's time efficient otherwise you'll go bankrupt using all those quarters.
And then maybe some detailing clay between the wash and the wax?
I share your frustration. Most of my cars are outside all of the time too. At least you don't have to deal with snow.
Twice a year Strip off the wax. I use 3M Adhesive Sap and Wax remover from Walmart.
Then use the clay bar and appropriate polishes If you're going to use Blackfire, P21S Gloss Enhancing Polish, or Meguiars Machine Glaze are good choices, as are 3M Polishes. Terry told me that all of these can go under Blackfire.
You should not have to do these steps more than twice a year.
If you want to add Blackfire use the Gloss Ehnancing polish as a prep surface. It actually looks better on top of a traditional glaze/polish. Then apply at least 3 coats of Blackfire Paint Protectant 3-7 days apart at a minimum. The new Paint Protectant is definitely different and much superior to their prior formula IMO.
Now if you want to just stop there you car will be well protected for at least 3 months. Longer if you use the Blackfire Shampoo and Quick Detailer. This will be a good choice if you wish to stay with one product line.
P21S has a fairly unique ability to keep dust down better than anything I have seen. It also looks great on top of Blackfire. However if you do that you can't add any more BF unless the carnauba layer is worn out. So you would have to re wax at regular intervals and use a Carnauba Quick Detailer. Blackfire soap will also help strip off Carnauba so it shouldn't be used if the Carnauba is on top.
This is my variation of information directly from CMA.
http://www.properautocare.com/refshinkit.html
Thanks!
The best one step I know of is Klasse All In One. It's not really available at retail but several online retailers sell. It's been around for years and is a well known product.
http://www.tacscar.com is a good place to start for info about Klasse.
If you want to spend all day waxing and polishing your car, don't use this product because it is just fast and easy. Did I mention how smooth the paint feels? Well, my van is so smooth it feels like glass.
If you are interested in this go to www.moreshine.com and you can locate some stores that sell it or buy it on line from them direct. They also sell Max Bead which is just a wax and does not have any cleaners in it. I have not tried that product since I like a product that removes tar and road grime in one step.
Most of the products in a certain price point are about the same in terms of performance. It's almost a coin toss as to which is better (or worse). About the only product I like that's sold at retail is Meguiar's Gold Class. It gives a nice shine but it's durability is modest - 8 weeks give or take.
About spray waxes - they are fine if you want a quick, short term shine. Their durability can be measured in days, even hours if the car is sitting in the summer sun. Most are made of silicone mixture (hence the shine and slickness), solvents that provide a little surface cleaning power, maybe a smidge of wax, and alcohol. If your car needs any amount of polishing to remove swirls, stains, dullness, or surface defects, the spray waxes don't cut it. Kiss the shine bye-bye after the first wash. But on a brand new car they look great.
I think NuFinish is a mixed bag at best. It does seem to provide decent protection but it doesn't last nearly as long as they say; maybe 3 months. The big problem I have with it is it's very strong solvent cleaners. The smell will knock you over. It doesn't contain a lot of abrasives but all the solvents more than make up for it. I do not like strong solvent products on paint as they eventually dry out the plasticizers in the clearcoat which can lead to oxidation and failure. Since there are many good products on the market I see no sensible reason to use NuFinish. Just my two cents.
I put Speed Bead on my van on August 3, 2002 and it is still has that same shine and feels smooth. If your paint has swirl marks and needs more then of course you will need a different product. If you stay away from automatic car washes and wash it yourself, swirl marks won't be a big problem.
Good luck.
Ask Marco what he recommends and pick up a few supplies while you're there.
Also, which would last longer MPPP or #20?
IMO, #20 will last longer as its designed for durability. MPPP is a nice overall product that does most stuff well; better cleaner, more carnauba-like shine, supposed to repel dust. On a light colored car many times a polymer sealant like #20 gives a glossier shine. So it's almost a toss up between them.