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Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)
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I had time the last few weekends and waxed my new black vehicle. I washed with Meguiar's Gold Class, dried with absorber and MF towel, and applied Mequiar's #20 (polymer/sealent). (This is where I am seeking comments.) After letting the polymer/sealent cure, I added Mequiar's Gold Class wax and let it dry overnight before wiping off with MF towel. It looks good to me but my wife commented, " I cannot tell a difference / better shine since the wax has been added." I thought the wax would add a deeper shine to a dark vehicle. Should I have used a gloss rather than a wax? Also, I have learned that Klasse is pretty good stuff will use it in the future. However, since I have all this Mequiar product(s)I am hoping to use it before purchising anything else.
In the spring, get some #7 Show Car Glaze or S100 Gloss Ehnancing Cleaner from a motorcycle shop and put it down before you use the #20. It will then get a deeper shine.
Don't forget to use a clay bar before putting on the Glaze. That improves Clarity a lot.
Letting a Carnauba dry a long time means extra work for you to remove. Some sealants can be left on longer, but with a Carnauba just let it dry to a haze then wipe off.
It's the glaze/polish step that gets you the shine, but if you stopped there, it wouldn't last.
BTW-My wife probably would have made a similar comment. 8~)
GC is pretty good stuff for a one-step but will not offer the durability of #20. However, #20 needs to be preceded by some polishing to get the paint in really good shape prior to use. There are some cleaners in #20 but not much.
After my trip to SEMA last week my opinion of GC and Meguiar's in general dropped several notches. If it were me I'd use up the GC and the #20 and move on to something else.
www.permafinish.com
If you read the fine print they usually say to keep your warranty valid the product needs to be reapplied or "freshened" once a year. So in practice this makes those products no different than any other polymer sealant on the market.
You can go to a place like NAPA and buy a bottle of Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #20 Polymer Sealant, apply it yourself, and get the same protection.
Does anyone have any advice on what kind of Rotary Buffer to buy...and how to properly use a Rotary Buffer...I have never used one and really have no idea what I'm doing; so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
There are some cheapy RO buffers, but they don't tend to develop much speed, and so they probably wouldn't be very helpful for your swirl problem. Porter-Cable and DeWalt make reasonably-priced random-orbit buffers that have good speed settings, are adjustable, and they are tough machines that will probably last a lifetime.
A pretty good place to start research on a buffer. The Porter-Cable Griots offers is one of the better models available.
A high quality DA polisher like the Porter Cable 7424 is more than adequate for us car nuts. They are serious tools and are very versatile. And they're easy to use and master. I have a PC and love it. I can do about 90% of what a rotary can do. A wide selection of pads and polishes will allow you to get terrific results.
Here's some links to peruse:
http://www.properautocare.com/bufpol.html
http://www.topoftheline.com/deteq.html
http://www.coastaltool.com (Click on "polishers")
Good products to remove swirls are 3M Swirl Mark Remover, Meguiars #9, or if they are a little heavier Meguiar's Dual Action Cleaner Polish (Miraculous IMO), or 3M Cleaner Wax Medium Oxidation Remover. I'm sure there are other good products, but these are the ones I'm familiar with.
I've used #9 both by hand and by buffer, and the difference in the results with the machine is phenomenal. Good deep cleaning really needs a machine.
Remember that if a scratch is deep enough to catch a fingernail is needs a paint repair job, not a polish.
Gold Class is a pretty decent $10 wax. It leaves an excellent shine but won't last too long, especially in the summertime. I give it 4-6 weeks before most protection is gone.
It's hard to find an inexpensive store-bought wax that will hold up in harsh sunlight. The best products are polymer sealants which can withstand the high surface temps and still offer protection.
One you may want to consider is Blackfire which is sold by a Tampa-based company called Classic Motoring Accessories. Website is http://www.properautocare.com . Blackfire was developed in Florida so they know intimately the challenges of paint protection. It's worth checking out.
You'd be hard pressed to scratch your paint with a good microfiber towel, IMO.
I guarantee that NOT waxing the finish is much harder on it than waxing it. I car a purchased a couple of years ago had a pink glow to the paint. When I removed the oxidation, it was a bright red. Hasn't changed since with proper care. This car is outside all the time.
The rubbing issue is valid only if there is grit under the applicator. That's why I always clay before doing any polishing whatsoever.
Put your hand into a plastic baggie and lightly rub the flat surfaces like the hood and roof. If you feel roughness that means there are surface contaminents on your paint that need to be removed. Detailing clay does this.
I'm sure the next question you have is what to buy and where to buy it. There are several excellent brands available: Mothers, Clay Magic, Eagle One, Griots Garage. Most of the detailing clays are virtually the same so buy whatever one is convenient. The only clay I do not like is Meguiar's - too soft and sticky. Look for detailing clay at any well-stocked auto parts store (Pep Boys, Auto Zone, NAPA) or buy online.
You must use a lubricant with the clay so its best to buy a clay kit that includes a bottle of spray lubricant. It will cost you about $10 minimum.
I could tell that the last post was yours without even looking at your signature.
You made my day
You need a product that will neutralize the acidity of the doo. The easiest and cheapest way I know of is to use Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) and water mixed 50/50. Douse the doo area thoroughly and let it sit (don't wipe). The alcohol will draw out the acid from the doo. After a few minutes do it again. A few minutes later you can use the mix and a soft towel to remove the solids (ewwwwww!).
A mix of baking soda and water would also do the trick as it accomplishes the same task. So if you're at home and can whip up a quick mix, try that. On the road you should have a bottle of IPA mix and a few towels in the trunk.
Timing is critical here. The chances for etching are high. But you've got to remove the acids before you repolish and wax the area.
Oh, and do not use quick detail spray. They contain silicones (usually) that will actually seal in the acids then bake them into the paint when combine with heat. Not a good thing.
I've had Blackfire on this car for 2 months and am impressed with the results. Just last Friday when my wife went to work a friend came up and asked if we had just repainted the car.
Top it about 3 weeks later with a Carnauba like P21S and you'll find a brilliant shine.
Mrdetailer, my primary concern is protection, not shine. The reason, I have an outdoor car and in three days the best shine is once again dirty. I want the car to look as good in five years as it does now. Just so I am sure I am understanding you correctly, if I wash with an automotive soap, then follow with Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection, am I on the right path? Then, if I want to also use a carnuba wax after later washes that would be fine and maybe bring out more shine?
And then maybe some detailing clay between the wash and the wax?
At a minumim you need:
*Cotton chenille wash mitt (two)
*Dedicated 5 gallon bucket
*A large waffle weave microfiber towel for drying
*Detailing clay of your choice
*Detail spray of your choice
*Shampoo
*Mild polish to remove swirls and light scratches
*Protectant/sealant
That along with the usual glass cleaner, wheel cleaner, tire dressing, etc will make up your detailing arsenal. Budget $200 for all that.
I bucket-washed at coin op joints for years. It was never a big problem except for the many quarters I pumped into those machines. But you can do most of what a homeowner can do. You'll just need to develop a system that's time efficient otherwise you'll go bankrupt using all those quarters.
And then maybe some detailing clay between the wash and the wax?
I share your frustration. Most of my cars are outside all of the time too. At least you don't have to deal with snow.
Twice a year Strip off the wax. I use 3M Adhesive Sap and Wax remover from Walmart.
Then use the clay bar and appropriate polishes If you're going to use Blackfire, P21S Gloss Enhancing Polish, or Meguiars Machine Glaze are good choices, as are 3M Polishes. Terry told me that all of these can go under Blackfire.
You should not have to do these steps more than twice a year.
If you want to add Blackfire use the Gloss Ehnancing polish as a prep surface. It actually looks better on top of a traditional glaze/polish. Then apply at least 3 coats of Blackfire Paint Protectant 3-7 days apart at a minimum. The new Paint Protectant is definitely different and much superior to their prior formula IMO.
Now if you want to just stop there you car will be well protected for at least 3 months. Longer if you use the Blackfire Shampoo and Quick Detailer. This will be a good choice if you wish to stay with one product line.
P21S has a fairly unique ability to keep dust down better than anything I have seen. It also looks great on top of Blackfire. However if you do that you can't add any more BF unless the carnauba layer is worn out. So you would have to re wax at regular intervals and use a Carnauba Quick Detailer. Blackfire soap will also help strip off Carnauba so it shouldn't be used if the Carnauba is on top.
This is my variation of information directly from CMA.
http://www.properautocare.com/refshinkit.html
Thanks!
The best one step I know of is Klasse All In One. It's not really available at retail but several online retailers sell. It's been around for years and is a well known product.
http://www.tacscar.com is a good place to start for info about Klasse.
If you want to spend all day waxing and polishing your car, don't use this product because it is just fast and easy. Did I mention how smooth the paint feels? Well, my van is so smooth it feels like glass.
If you are interested in this go to www.moreshine.com and you can locate some stores that sell it or buy it on line from them direct. They also sell Max Bead which is just a wax and does not have any cleaners in it. I have not tried that product since I like a product that removes tar and road grime in one step.
Most of the products in a certain price point are about the same in terms of performance. It's almost a coin toss as to which is better (or worse). About the only product I like that's sold at retail is Meguiar's Gold Class. It gives a nice shine but it's durability is modest - 8 weeks give or take.
About spray waxes - they are fine if you want a quick, short term shine. Their durability can be measured in days, even hours if the car is sitting in the summer sun. Most are made of silicone mixture (hence the shine and slickness), solvents that provide a little surface cleaning power, maybe a smidge of wax, and alcohol. If your car needs any amount of polishing to remove swirls, stains, dullness, or surface defects, the spray waxes don't cut it. Kiss the shine bye-bye after the first wash. But on a brand new car they look great.
I think NuFinish is a mixed bag at best. It does seem to provide decent protection but it doesn't last nearly as long as they say; maybe 3 months. The big problem I have with it is it's very strong solvent cleaners. The smell will knock you over. It doesn't contain a lot of abrasives but all the solvents more than make up for it. I do not like strong solvent products on paint as they eventually dry out the plasticizers in the clearcoat which can lead to oxidation and failure. Since there are many good products on the market I see no sensible reason to use NuFinish. Just my two cents.
I put Speed Bead on my van on August 3, 2002 and it is still has that same shine and feels smooth. If your paint has swirl marks and needs more then of course you will need a different product. If you stay away from automatic car washes and wash it yourself, swirl marks won't be a big problem.
Good luck.
Ask Marco what he recommends and pick up a few supplies while you're there.
Also, which would last longer MPPP or #20?
IMO, #20 will last longer as its designed for durability. MPPP is a nice overall product that does most stuff well; better cleaner, more carnauba-like shine, supposed to repel dust. On a light colored car many times a polymer sealant like #20 gives a glossier shine. So it's almost a toss up between them.