Lexol is pretty mild stuff. If you have cleaner remaining on the seat, I really doubt it will ruin anything. If you want to ensure you get it all off, just get a bucket of warm water and a terrycloth towel. Wet the towel, wring it out a bit so it isn't sopping, but not too dry (like the bottle says, wet enough so you could wash your face with it). Then just wipe the seats down while rewetting/wringing the towel. This should remove any cleaner. You can do one seat at a time and when done, dry it off with a dry terry towel.
Then, go ahead and use a dry applicator and apply the Lexol conditioner again. The leather should feel better when you do this, and the lexol conditioner has a mild (though not super leathery) smell. You can buff the seats after about 20 minutes with a clean dry terry, or don't if they feel nice. I don't always buff them.
I don't see how the Lexol would harm any vinyls they accidentally get on. You could certainly use the cleaner on them as it is milder than most vinyl cleaners.
I apply conditioner about once a month or so. I don't think you will over apply it, though I wouldn't do it everyday or anything.
I know I must be a pain in this forum already, oh with just about 100 post I do. I never had a car with leather, and one of the reasons why I did not want leather was the looks I have seen on some cars. However, these were people who MAY bring the car to a car wash and MAY order some wax, but would never even thought of buying additional products to protect and beautify their leather seats.
I truly an thankful to all the advice and support given here. I may have bought Lexol for now, but I think next I will try some Eagle one (if I can find it) or the Zaino line. We shall see on how long this bottle of Lexol will last. Knowing me, I will probably try to use it up as quickly as possible just so I have an excuse to get the next batch.
If you wonder how good lexol is, go to a horse show some day and you will notice that many people are caring for their thousand dollar leather saddles with lexol products.
The biggest difference is that horse tack is not coated with a clear sealant like most auto leather is. Also virtually all auto leather is spray dyed (topcoated) where horse tack is aniline dyed (stained).
All this means that one should use a product made specifically for auto leather and stay away from stuff like hide food and neatsfoot oils which have no place on your car's leather.
But I would not use hide food on coated leather. I'd check my Jag leather closely before using the wrong product on it.
I've said this before here many times but it bears repeating: Hide food and neatsfoot oil are fine if you have an older (1970s era) Jaguar, Rolls Royce, Bentley, Mercedes, etc that came with vat dyed uncoated leather. A few high end cars still offer this kind of leather but they're very rare. Now that you can get leather in $15000 Toyotas and Hyundais its important to know what kind of leather they have and to care for them properly.
I don't have a Jag, I just know that is where you buy Hide Food. Going back a while ago there was a really active board on leather - the main participant was someone from the leather trade. Awesome explanations of the processes, coatings, split hides, and where each manufacturer got their materials. That is where I found out about HF and who recommended it. HF is actually private labelled by a number of different people. I believe Connely also recommends it. I've used it for around three years with good results. I've never used anything else and hadn't considered it until reading your posts.
Looks like it is made by Connelly and supplied to Jaguar, Rolls Royce, Astin Martin, and others. Some of the sites say "use on all leather surfaces" some specifically say don't use on "vinyl coated leathers" and warn abour Chrysler and Cadillac in particular. Might be time for a change....
I have a LeBra installed on my Car. I would like to use a product to clean and protect it, I cannot use A.A or other similar product since they seal the vinyl, need to keep the tiny hole open. I have a leather protectant made by Simoniz here do you think that I can use it ??
I know this forum is for waxes, but I couldn't find a forum specifically to allow wheels. Sorry
Our car was not properly take care off for the past 6 years. Living in a apt it was basically wash when you can, and use the car wash when it was just too much. Anyway, not the allow wheels have taken a beating. What is the best way for me to get it back to as clean as possible. Thanks.
You can start with a wheel cleaner like Eagle One A2Z (available everywhere). This stuff is a strong alkaline cleaner that will lift some of the gunk off the wheels. Use a soft bristled brush to agitate the cleaner and rinse completely. A second application may be needed.
Beyond that you can try various paint cleaners and polishes to remove embedded crud. Apply them with a small sponge or even #000 steel wool for some extra bite. Small brushes also help cleaning tough to reach areas.
Getting wheels clean can be really tedious and somewhat bittersweet as they usually are the first things to get dirty again. That's why they need regular attention. But its important to get them looking as good as you can because grimey wheels look bad against shiny paint. Good luck and let us know if you need more info.
Brake dust cleaner? You mean the Eagle One I mentioned? What exactly do you use now?
If its reasonably safe then, yeah, use that with a brush to scrub off the crud.
What I meant by a paint cleaner was a polish like Meguiars or 3M or whatever. I don't know what you have so I kinda left my comments generic. Sorry for the confusion.
which is a pretty strong product. It is meant to remove grease and oils from brake parts, and also rinse away brake dust. I don't think I'd want to use that on clearcoated wheels. A2Z is pretty impressively strong, so I'd try that before using brake cleaner...
I think I will try the Simple Green with a toothbrush, then move on to the A2Z.
Next topic: Rotary Polisher
I see that some people prefer and recommend the Porter Cable brand, and I also see that these are very very expensive ($150). Since I will be using the rotary polisher on the 10 year old car what other brands do any of you suggest that is much more affordable. For the new car, I prefer doing it by hand, but would not mind if I could do the old car much quicker when it comes to waxing and polishing. I saw one at a Boat store (can't remember the brand) but it was for $25.
If not a rotary polisher, what about the ones you attach to a drill?
My Pearl White Sentra SE is three years old. I wash it every few weeks and wax it twice a year with Blitz Wax. I've noticed lately that the paint is rough, so have decided to clay it. I've also decided to use a more durable protection -- Meguiar's #20 Poly Sealant. But since this is also a cleaner, is the clay bar over-kill? I don't want to cause any damage.
To me, the clay bar and your cleaner are two totally different animals. The clay will pick up stuff that is embedded into your paint, making the body very smooth enhancing the shine. The cleaner part I believe doesn't act like a cleaner like a wash or that it has the capabilities to pick up debri embedded into your paint. I think it works more of a polish, maybe 95% and 5% as a "cleaner". Forgive me if my percentage are off, I did not do any testing on the product, but expressing what I understand to be the products results. Claying will not be overdoing it, I think it is your first necessary step into getting your car shiny and a pure way of protecting it.
Listening to Bretfraz's outstanding advice and willingness to help each person with their specific situation is what got me started in my detailing quest. It is now an obsessive way of life that has culminated into many favorite products. There is no one best product but it is all dependent upon just how much work, time, money, and desire you have to make your ride look it's best. Even then it depends on what looks good to YOU on YOUR car.
Just wanted to say Happy Birthday to a thoughtful, giving detailer.
Sentrafan, I'd have to agree with lapvn...and would use both products together. I clay my car about twice a year, and it works great...as "fool-proof" as it gets. Let us know how the #20 holds up for you as well. Another topic....has anyone used a glass polishing kit with their Porter Cable? Was checking it out online and wondered if anyone has experience with them and the results they deliver. Thanks!
I appreciate the birthday wishes. I would have treated myself to some detailing fun and maybe a few toys but the weather was lousy today and, well, I think the only detailing toy I'd buy myself is a new rotary polisher or a carpet extractor. Gotta save a few more $$ for those babies.
I've got my car looking pretty danged good right now and am very happy with the stuff I'm using on it. I really think that's the bottom line, supporting what OUTLAWTITAN said so well.... use what you like on your car.
You received some good pointers from the others. Only thing I'd add is that #20 really is not a cleaner sealant. The cleaning ability is very mild and will not remove swirls, stains, oxidation, etc.
2-3 times a year I'd suggest a full detail which would include claying, paint polishing with something like a swirl mark remover, then finish with a sealant or wax. The polishing step is what brings out the best shine; the sealant or wax's job is to protect that shine. When I detail my car I spend most of my time polishing, usually in 2 or 3 steps with different products each time. When I'm done the paint looks spectacular. All I need to do from there is protect it. Do the same kinda thing and you'll be happy with the results.
Over the years I had 2 different buffers (the $25-30 ones) They made the work of applying waxes and final buffing MUCH easier. What I found was most of these type do not have a high enough RPM to really do great job with the ever crucial polish step as bretfaz mentions. The cheaper ones tend to max out at 2500 to 3000 rpm. I went to my body shop 3 years after they fixed my quarter panel (got backed into in a parking lot) because it looked very dry and orange peeled) The guy looked at it and said he would try to polish it first if it didn't work he'd re shoot it (they really stand behind their work) I watched as one of the employees pulled out a porter cable random orbit buffer, slapped on a foam pad, grabbed a bottle of 3M FINESSE IT II and went to work. 5-10 minutes later he was done and the panel was like a dark green mirror, awesome! Being on the ready for counselling side of detailing already, I went to body shop supply house, bought the 3M and some new foam pads and tried to recreate the same effect on the rest of the car. The shine turned out good but not great. Went back to shop and asked questions, the detailer explained and actually showed me since his buffer was adjustable speed. The friction from the extra speed was able to work the product better and buff it out a lot faster. I bought the Porter Cable at a used tool joint for $75. Looked brand new with no box (right place, right time) Huge difference on how it works as compared to the cheaper ones. For you think of the difference between your Z'd Odyssey and the guy who went and got the car wash hot wax special and was bragging about how good his car shines and how well protected it is (and they did a great job of drying it with the car wash towels). Sometimes you do get what you pay for............
Now your shopping list continues to grow! check out http://properautocare.com/porcabpolac.html and scroll to bottom for tips and tricks on using the buffers. They also have on that same page the foam pads, Micro fiber bonnets for buffing, and other goodies.
Either way you decide to go with your buffer choice, its better then trying to get your arms hands moving consistently at 2500 rpm for the whole car. Check BJ's and Sam's Clubs for the buffers also and if you have a "used tool" joint in the area always worth stopping in.
sequoiasoon - First is that, love your name, and I too hope to be on the same boat as you.
Because I am just looking just to enhance the 10 year old car, I think I will go for the $25 polisher. Just as you said, it was good enough, but just didn't get you the showroom shine that a Porter Cable would give you. If I were to buy a porter cable, I would have to be willing to use it on the new car as well, but right now, with the new car only 3 months old, I prefer to do the work by hand. As for the 10 year old car, because the car was taking a beating for the past 6 years, I really can't expect too much from it, but I can try to enhance it. I wish I could still have kept the showroom shine but right now, I would settle for that slick feeling and knowing that the wax I keep putting on is helping to protect the car.
I get the impression that many noobies (including myself) think that claying is an abrasive proceedure (clay = fine particles?). Indeed it is not. A clay kit consists of a "pancake" of clay (similar, but different to modeling clay) and a bottle of liquid "lubricant". Spray on the lubricant, rub the clay over the paint, and it acts as a "sponge/magnet" to lift off imbeded particles. No abrasive rubbing/polishing whatsoever. I did my first vehicle last month. Go for it! $10.00 at autozone for Clay Magic kit. Do a Townhall search for more details.
I like the 303 suggestion from LAPVN. Its water based, has a UV sunscreen, no petroleum solvents or silicone oils... it should work great. You can use it on your tires, interior trim, door seals, etc.
To find it locally try boater/marine supply stores. Lordco and Zellers sells 303 in Canada. Of course its easy to find online too.
Thanks for the compliment, I should probably change it to sequoia-now-if-the-wife-ever-lets-me-drive-it (picked it up in May now has 1400 miles on it). I was very happy with the results until (see prior post). I think my neighbor is even happier that he saved $25 and got a decent buffer. For general waxing and maintenance it is MUCH better than hand. I used it to apply the cleaners and waxes and final buffing. I used a regular cotton towel to remove the major dried wax with no hard rubbing then followed with the buffer to give that nice even finish. I found that the regular terry cloth bonnets "clogged" real quick otherwise.
To get you back on track what about going to a good bodyshop or detailer and just have the outside polished? Imagine living near BRETFRAZ (happy birthday by the way) and how he could get you a nice clean base to start from. Don't know the cost but if you were to show up with a dawned, clayed, dawned red acura and say they don't even need to final wax because you like doing it and want to try your new buffer. All you want them to do is use there stuff to get rid of the swirls etc. Then you could put all your hard earned advice to work on the interior and rims afterward also. Maybe even Z or klasse so you know the outside will be protected longer. Did you order "the wax test" from guru reports. I blame this forum and certain frequent posters (see green and white norfolk flags by their names) for the condition I am now in. Much poorer but a lot cleaner and better educated and getting addicted to Microfiber and websites like here, classic motoring, and autopia. I think it almost time for my session with the Doc and discuss my "true" feelings (his car is filthy)
To all the contributors here sharing their expertise.
I have been lurking for a few weeks and have learned what to do with my 98. There's more than just turtle wax. Now that I understand clay is not an abrasive process, that'll be next on my vacation list next week.
Car care seems a little like golf. There are many ways to get to the hole, skill-wise, but certain methods are a lot more elegant and easier with a lower score in the end!
At first the term "clay" scared me. I pictured myself rubbing a hard rock made of clay to really clean the car. In the stone ages, my mom told me that they use to use a rock with soap to really get clean. This was the picture I was getting in regarding claying. THIS WAS FAR FROM THE TRUTH.
I like to describe to people that "claying" is more of "putty doughing". Think of it when you were a kid playing with silly putty. Now just add some slippery solution and there you have what we call, "CLAYING". Term should be changed because it does scare some people.
My brother decided to buy clay magic (thanks to Bret), only because he saw the results after I tried it.
Anyway, as much as I want to take it to a detailer, I believe I don't think I can justify that extra expense. I have already placed 2 orders of Z and working on the third order shopping list right now. I keep the Z stuff for the new car. The $25 orbiter I think I can justify because she complains I spend too much time with the cars.
I counter this with, "Would you rather I spend my time at the bar". No explanation, everyone knows where I slept that night.
303 products. You can get information and locate retailers or etailers at their site. www.303products.com Sorry I didn't explain my answer too much, I thought I had seen your name before on the forum, so I thought you were already familiar with 303.
I had gotten it at BJ's wholesale club. Saw the same basic ones at Walmart and even some of the local autoparts stores (but $10 more). Not sure how that equates to stores north of the border EH!
Has construction season started yet? If I remember from living by the border for a while it went Almost Winter, Winter, Still Winter, and Construction as the 4 seasons in Canada. Is there official dates for those seasons?
Hey guys, anyone have any good suggestions on possibly masking the scratches on my "not-so-real" walnut trim on my Aurora's interior? I was just looking at a new one at the dealer and the first thing I noticed when I got in was the condition of the trim. It looked terrible! Mine is not that bad, but it made me wonder what I could do to repair them, short of buying a new trim set. Anyone have some ideas? Thanks!
Ya you ain't kidding. I almost had a heartattack when I saw the prices. There was one place that sold the gallon for $42. Because the 303 products is so expensive, I think I will just use it on the dashboard and anywhere else the sun hits the Vinyl. As for the tires, I think I will use the Z products first and see how it does. Dad16 said to put it on your headlight lens as well.
I haven't tried it yet since it has been raining here, oh I'd say for the last 3 weeks or so, and the forecast here for this weekend is some more rain. I guess you must be in the Eastern part of Canada.
I have owned a Porter Cable for about 10 years and its been a champion performer. Applications are a breeze and I think it is impossible to burn the paint. I admit at first I was nervous. I started out on a Ford Taurus that I had kept up pretty well that I used to wax by hand several times a year. Well clean,polish and wax. The PC cut down my application time by 75% and I used less product because it went on more evenly. As the cars got more expensive: 2-Q45's,LS400 so did the amount of time spent detailing. I've never had a problem with the unit or in applying any product, although I never have tried a glass polish. I have let numerous family members use it, but not with my pads since I don't want any contamination from their products.
The only problem is that since it takes less time to apply I end up putting on more coats. I always buff off by hand to make sure I haven't missed any imperfections on the car. Then use a sheepskin bonnet to buff out the whole car for a spectacular shine.
Maybe next year for birthday, or fathers day I will ask for my own PC. Hopefully by then I would have gotten the hang of using a rotary polisher and not screw up the new car.
Thanks all for the great tips. I clean and detail my car more then the average person, but am nowhere near some of you guys. I'm looking forward to claying and polishing my car, and will let you know the results.
ok Who ordered the Sunny 70 degree day? ON A FRIDAY Couldn't you do it for a Saturday or Sunday. Look now we are getting RAIN AGAIN for the entire weekend. How am I suppose to care for the car now!!!
Could we all pray to the Sun God for the same day please.
ok people, Eastern coast coming wet. Have to work now.
The wood in the Aurora is about as real as it gets in cars. If you have a service manual, I'd suggest you take a look at that. I recall seeing a procedure for removing scratches from the trim. As I recall you basically polish or sand them out of the veneer. I think the veneer is pretty thick and I doubt the scratches go very deep. If they are just spiderwebbing, maybe you could try something like Plexus first.
Please send some of your excess out west where there is a SEVERE Drought from Wyoming thru Colorado to Arizona and almost all places west of these states. Sunny weather is nice but if we don't get much rain soon, we will not even have drinking water. Many places in the west now forbid car washing at home. Without washing, even the best of car waxes soon lose their luster.
Comments
Then, go ahead and use a dry applicator and apply the Lexol conditioner again. The leather should feel better when you do this, and the lexol conditioner has a mild (though not super leathery) smell. You can buff the seats after about 20 minutes with a clean dry terry, or don't if they feel nice. I don't always buff them.
I don't see how the Lexol would harm any vinyls they accidentally get on. You could certainly use the cleaner on them as it is milder than most vinyl cleaners.
I apply conditioner about once a month or so. I don't think you will over apply it, though I wouldn't do it everyday or anything.
I truly an thankful to all the advice and support given here. I may have bought Lexol for now, but I think next I will try some Eagle one (if I can find it) or the Zaino line. We shall see on how long this bottle of Lexol will last. Knowing me, I will probably try to use it up as quickly as possible just so I have an excuse to get the next batch.
All this means that one should use a product made specifically for auto leather and stay away from stuff like hide food and neatsfoot oils which have no place on your car's leather.
I've said this before here many times but it bears repeating: Hide food and neatsfoot oil are fine if you have an older (1970s era) Jaguar, Rolls Royce, Bentley, Mercedes, etc that came with vat dyed uncoated leather. A few high end cars still offer this kind of leather but they're very rare. Now that you can get leather in $15000 Toyotas and Hyundais its important to know what kind of leather they have and to care for them properly.
The EX seems to good to be true. You can apply it after carnuba products, very good shine, UV protection, and can be purchased in gallon quantities.
I would like to use a product to clean and protect it, I cannot use A.A or other similar product since they seal the vinyl, need to keep the tiny hole open.
I have a leather protectant made by Simoniz here do you think that I can use it ??
What are you suggesting ?
Thanks and happy summer !!
http://www.global-accessories.com/lebra/
Scroll to the bottom for their vinyl care product.
Our car was not properly take care off for the past 6 years. Living in a apt it was basically wash when you can, and use the car wash when it was just too much. Anyway, not the allow wheels have taken a beating. What is the best way for me to get it back to as clean as possible. Thanks.
Beyond that you can try various paint cleaners and polishes to remove embedded crud. Apply them with a small sponge or even #000 steel wool for some extra bite. Small brushes also help cleaning tough to reach areas.
Getting wheels clean can be really tedious and somewhat bittersweet as they usually are the first things to get dirty again. That's why they need regular attention. But its important to get them looking as good as you can because grimey wheels look bad against shiny paint. Good luck and let us know if you need more info.
Can I use that and then scrub with a steel wool or bristle brush?
I also have a paint thinner (terpentine), is this what you meant by paint cleaner?
If its reasonably safe then, yeah, use that with a brush to scrub off the crud.
What I meant by a paint cleaner was a polish like Meguiars or 3M or whatever. I don't know what you have so I kinda left my comments generic. Sorry for the confusion.
Next topic: Rotary Polisher
I see that some people prefer and recommend the Porter Cable brand, and I also see that these are very very expensive ($150). Since I will be using the rotary polisher on the 10 year old car what other brands do any of you suggest that is much more affordable. For the new car, I prefer doing it by hand, but would not mind if I could do the old car much quicker when it comes to waxing and polishing. I saw one at a Boat store (can't remember the brand) but it was for $25.
If not a rotary polisher, what about the ones you attach to a drill?
My Pearl White Sentra SE is three years old. I wash it every few weeks and wax it twice a year with Blitz Wax. I've noticed lately that the paint is rough, so have decided to clay it. I've also decided to use a more durable protection -- Meguiar's #20 Poly Sealant. But since this is also a cleaner, is the clay bar over-kill? I don't want to cause any damage.
Thanks.
Just wanted to say Happy Birthday to a thoughtful, giving detailer.
I'd have to agree with lapvn...and would use both products together. I clay my car about twice a year, and it works great...as "fool-proof" as it gets. Let us know how the #20 holds up for you as well.
Another topic....has anyone used a glass polishing kit with their Porter Cable? Was checking it out online and wondered if anyone has experience with them and the results they deliver. Thanks!
I've got my car looking pretty danged good right now and am very happy with the stuff I'm using on it. I really think that's the bottom line, supporting what OUTLAWTITAN said so well.... use what you like on your car.
2-3 times a year I'd suggest a full detail which would include claying, paint polishing with something like a swirl mark remover, then finish with a sealant or wax. The polishing step is what brings out the best shine; the sealant or wax's job is to protect that shine. When I detail my car I spend most of my time polishing, usually in 2 or 3 steps with different products each time. When I'm done the paint looks spectacular. All I need to do from there is protect it. Do the same kinda thing and you'll be happy with the results.
For you think of the difference between your Z'd Odyssey and the guy who went and got the car wash hot wax special and was bragging about how good his car shines and how well protected it is (and they did a great job of drying it with the car wash towels).
Sometimes you do get what you pay for............
Now your shopping list continues to grow! check out http://properautocare.com/porcabpolac.html and scroll to bottom for tips and tricks on using the buffers. They also have on that same page the foam pads, Micro fiber bonnets for buffing, and other goodies.
Either way you decide to go with your buffer choice, its better then trying to get your arms hands moving consistently at 2500 rpm for the whole car. Check BJ's and Sam's Clubs for the buffers also and if you have a "used tool" joint in the area always worth stopping in.
Because I am just looking just to enhance the 10 year old car, I think I will go for the $25 polisher. Just as you said, it was good enough, but just didn't get you the showroom shine that a Porter Cable would give you. If I were to buy a porter cable, I would have to be willing to use it on the new car as well, but right now, with the new car only 3 months old, I prefer to do the work by hand. As for the 10 year old car, because the car was taking a beating for the past 6 years, I really can't expect too much from it, but I can try to enhance it. I wish I could still have kept the showroom shine but right now, I would settle for that slick feeling and knowing that the wax I keep putting on is helping to protect the car.
Need something with UV protectant, and something that doesn't seal the vinyl, in other word the vinyl got to breath !
Thanks
To find it locally try boater/marine supply stores. Lordco and Zellers sells 303 in Canada. Of course its easy to find online too.
To get you back on track what about going to a good bodyshop or detailer and just have the outside polished? Imagine living near BRETFRAZ (happy birthday by the way) and how he could get you a nice clean base to start from. Don't know the cost but if you were to show up with a dawned, clayed, dawned red acura and say they don't even need to final wax because you like doing it and want to try your new buffer. All you want them to do is use there stuff to get rid of the swirls etc. Then you could put all your hard earned advice to work on the interior and rims afterward also. Maybe even Z or klasse so you know the outside will be protected longer. Did you order "the wax test" from guru reports. I blame this forum and certain frequent posters (see green and white norfolk flags by their names) for the condition I am now in. Much poorer but a lot cleaner and better educated and getting addicted to Microfiber and websites like here, classic motoring, and autopia. I think it almost time for my session with the Doc and discuss my "true" feelings (his car is filthy)
I have been lurking for a few weeks and have learned what to do with my 98. There's more than just turtle wax. Now that I understand clay is not an abrasive process, that'll be next on my vacation list next week.
Car care seems a little like golf. There are many ways to get to the hole, skill-wise, but certain methods are a lot more elegant and easier with a lower score in the end!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I like to describe to people that "claying" is more of "putty doughing". Think of it when you were a kid playing with silly putty. Now just add some slippery solution and there you have what we call, "CLAYING". Term should be changed because it does scare some people.
My brother decided to buy clay magic (thanks to Bret), only because he saw the results after I tried it.
Anyway, as much as I want to take it to a detailer, I believe I don't think I can justify that extra expense. I have already placed 2 orders of Z and working on the third order shopping list right now. I keep the Z stuff for the new car. The $25 orbiter I think I can justify because she complains I spend too much time with the cars.
I counter this with, "Would you rather I spend my time at the bar". No explanation, everyone knows where I slept that night.
303 products. You can get information and locate retailers or etailers at their site.
www.303products.com Sorry I didn't explain my answer too much, I thought I had seen your name before on the forum, so I thought you were already familiar with 303.
I'm glad to hear all the advice has helped you. Thanks much for the compliments and b-day wishes.
- - Bret - -
Has construction season started yet? If I remember from living by the border for a while it went Almost Winter, Winter, Still Winter, and Construction as the 4 seasons in Canada. Is there official dates for those seasons?
I went to buy that stuff today at the Zellers nearby my place.
Wow 3 times more than armor all !!! Better be good ;-))
It's raining now no I'll try it another day !!
Can I put some on my dash board without making it too reflective ?
I haven't tried it yet since it has been raining here, oh I'd say for the last 3 weeks or so, and the forecast here for this weekend is some more rain. I guess you must be in the Eastern part of Canada.
The only problem is that since it takes less time to apply I end up putting on more coats. I always buff off by hand to make sure I haven't missed any imperfections on the car. Then use a sheepskin bonnet to buff out the whole car for a spectacular shine.
Maybe next year for birthday, or fathers day I will ask for my own PC. Hopefully by then I would have gotten the hang of using a rotary polisher and not screw up the new car.
Could we all pray to the Sun God for the same day please.
ok people, Eastern coast coming wet. Have to work now.
Sunny weather is nice but if we don't get much rain soon, we will not even have drinking water. Many places in the west now forbid car washing at home. Without washing, even the best of car waxes soon lose their luster.