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Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)
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A long time ago, someone had poured some form of liquid on the car. It stayed on the car since again no time no water access. That was a while back. Now that I do have access and have time to clean the cars, the body is smooth after I clayed it, it is slick after I wax it, but you still see where that liquid had ran off. It almost feels like it has burnt it's way into the body that I can't take it off. It is not raised like a rash or anything, just there.
Will these swirl removers help? what to do to try to get a nice clean car?
The other possibility is that some sort of chemical (often petro-based solvent) has attacked the paint. Again, you might have SOME luck with clay or even (if you are careful) a rubbing compound. it all depends how 'deep' the damage is.
I'm sure others have advice too...
Has anyone given these a try?
It is fine for handbags and wallets though...
A note on the 303, a little goes a long, long way. I don't use it on the tires because its expensive, but plastic headlights and rear lights, yes it helps prevent fade from the sun. I bet the small bottle about 16oz. would last several years if your doing rubber trim around windows and doors, dash, steering wheel, lights etc..... just not the tires. Remember to spray it on your cloth and don't spray on the surface direct. To much over spray and waste. Also, don't forget that it makes the steering wheel slick. I figure the protection last several months then I re-apply and the steering wheel feels slick for about 2 weeks. It keeps it looking like new though.
One last thing; It seems that after the initial application subsequent ones use less.
Clay only removes what sits on top of the surface. A swirl mark remover likely won't touch it; they're very mild polishes. Sounds like something only a machine and a fairly aggressive polish can correct. This is prolly an area where a good pro detailer can really help.
1) Most people seem to be recommending Stoner Invisible Glass. I went to the site but it doesn't say if it's safe for tinted windows or not. Could anyone tell me if it is safe to use on tinted windows?
2) Since tint can't be used on the entire windshield, is there a product that can be used on the windshield to offer some of the benefits as tint does?
3) It seems 303 is a good product to use on the dash, do you use it on the buttons and turn signal levers, etc. as well? I'm a little confused as to how much of the interior the 303 should be used on.
4) Finally, to do all the basic things to take care of a car, how many microfiber towels, cotton towels, etc. should I have on hand? It seems it's best to have a towel devoted to one job and to have a different towel for another, so about how many towels would I need total? How about foam applicator pads? Just wondering what kind of towels and other accessories I need and how many I should have. And where's the best place to get these things? Are all cotton and microfiber towels the same?
Thanks in advance for any responses.
(2) I assume its against state motor vehicle laws to apply any type of product that would interfere with a drivers vision. Whether that's tint or whatever, I'm sure its against the law everywhere. I have a good friend who used to tint his windshield. You could wallpaper a bedroom with all the tickets he got for that stunt.
(3) You can use 303 on any plastic item you like but use some common sense - no 303 on the steering wheel, for example.
(4) Its late and I'm too lazy to answer your broad questions. I'd think at least a dozen microfibers and 10-20 cotton terry hand towels would take care of your needs. That way you're not running out of towels or having to wash them 24/7 just to do a little more work on your car. Foam apps are really cheap so 10 or so would take care of most any need. Lots of good places to get towels, search thru old posts for web links to suppliers. Yes, there's a huge quality diff in towels.
Time for bed.....
1) I think this is terrible for drying the car. I think the abosorber and towels procedure works better.
2) I think this stuff is great when taking off my Z. Like several have posted, no lint, no loose Z residue.
We bought a 3 pack, 2 for the cars and 1 for the bathroom, just to test this out. My wife loves it for the bathroom, so we are thinking of getting more for the rest of the house.
Before I go and buy a 12 pack what other uses can I use these microfibre towels for?
I am not one who can afford the $3k bill for a spot, but we do used these parking garage when we drive to the city and pay $20 - $25 for 4- 6 hours.
The other day we took my brothers Passat with a light beige cloth interior and when we picked it up from the garage there were foot prints on the front seat, and also where the gear shifter is. We complained and they cleaned it as best as they could, but there was still some marks. My brother was satisfied but I would not have been. What can my brother buy that would clean his seats and also the vinyl area?
Oh if you are wondering whats the deal with the foot prints, it turns out that they park the cars so close to each other that when they get in, they climb over your car and through the window since there is only about 5-8 inches in between cars. Now if you pay extra to have the car parked in the very front, in view from the street than there would be no other car near you. How much, I don't know, probably another $20 is my guess, you know prime real estate.
I guess now the question is, do we still use these garages or park on the street, either way you risk your car getting step on. At least on the street, you know they won't step on your seats unless they were going to steal it.
I live 15 miles NW of Boston - plenty of free parking at the malls and restaurants.
The only special that these guys run for the “EARLY BIRDS” are during the week, as long as you get in before 9 and are out by 6, it will only cost you $16 - $20. Now if you are stuck outside because there are so many cars waiting to come in, and they punch you in at 9:01, well too bad, you miss the special.
We don’t drive to Manhattan everyday, we do take mass transit. Besides parking tolls alone would run around $8 - $13, depending if we would have to make a side trip to pickup someone on our way to Manhattan. By the way, on a good day, Manhattan is only 10 minutes from us. Anyway, the parking is not a everyday problem, only on special occasions or odd occasions when we decide to go out for dinner there.
As for the $2k Monthly parking garage SPOT, there was an article SEVERAL years back that this was the fee that some people were paying for an area of 20 x 20. Now you can still get a parking spot much cheaper, just don’t expect it to be near where you live, if you live in Manhattan.
And lastly, parking on the street is always an option, that’s if you can find one. Double parking, thinking of running in for a quick 2 minutes, forget about it, there is a ZERO tolerance especially in the shopping districts and touristy areas. $60 ticket on your window.
Ok, now that is done. How about what to do with the interior? J
I heard some good things about Menzerna Polishes and 3M, of course...but I'm just not sure of which to go with. Any other tips you guys have about how to get those swirls and scratches out would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
-Brian
The results were quite impressive. I don't believe the front of this Accord has been this smooth and glossy since leaving the dealers lot in DEC2000.
My other revelation, a while ago, was microfiber drying clothes. So thanks to all for sharing their experiences.
After 40+ years using a chamois and white compound to clean paint, this old dog is still learning new tricks.
#2933 - 303 is water based. It washes off easily but it also probably made the sap removal easier. I assume you are talking about some sort of trim? It is probably still protecting your trim but it is not very shiny and may not be visible for a very long period of time with or without rain, rinsing, or washing.
I only used the 303 so far on the interior dash, and as for the UV protection, well only time will tell. As far as dust not sticking to it, no problem at all when using the CCD.
For the tires, right now I am using a "Z" product so far so good. I get the Matte clean look and not the wet glossy look. How long it stands, we shall see.
http://www.microfibertech.com/towels.html
I still have a huge bottle of AA, not sure what I will use it for now because I do like the matte looks better from the 303. How the 303 protects I guess on my end, only time will tell.
Does anyone here have personal knowledge that AA was the cause of the vinyl dashboard problems and or their tires?
The other thing I like about 303 is that it isn't as slick as AA. People use to get hurt when I applied AA to the wrong areas and they were constantly slipping.
As for waffle types I might hold off on that for now at least.
I do like the way it takes off the "Z" products.
By the way, I have seen the CWB sold at Wal-Mart.
I replaced a fender in 1996 RAV4 (Sequoia Green). I primed the fender and applied the paint (which I bought for a custom paint house). The custom paint house matched the color chip using OEM paint code. When I paint the color matches alright.
But the metallic shineI have in rest of the car and this replaced fender is way off. I have looked this up in various light conditions. I have applied also two clear coats and still does not solve it.
Help please
/ram
I was asking my buds there about their favorite detailing prods.
Can you believe no one responded????
Can someone tell me what this 303 product is?? Who makes it.
What do you guys use to clean the textured hard vinyl surfaces found around door sills or integrated into bumpers???
Also what works best for removing bug splatter.
I need something safe for clear coat as well as my 3M EXPel covered pieces.
BTW: I regularly care for a gorgeous Jet Black Passat, and a Pewter Trailblazer EXT.
1) Do a search of this thread on "303"
2) Look at Bretfraz's posts on the topic first.
3) Next, look at other frequent posters' responses.
The posters on this thread and the Zaino thread are detailing fanatics! They really know what they are talking about. Do a search and you will find out more info faster than if you wait for someone to respond again to your questions.
found via internet or most marine and boating store.
Bret is the guru here with a garage full of products from A to Z.
Atoews is right, all of your topic has recently been covered so you should have no problems finding your answer.
Also for those looking for that wax "booster shot" check out Meguiar's Quik Wax. Its been reformulated and is much better than before. Supposed to leave a nice, slick finish and add a little "pop" to the paint. Its another product not designed to replace normal waxing but to add some protection between wax jobs. Unlike the Eagle One product you apply Quik Wax like a detail spray, onto dry, clean paint. Shouldn't take more than 15 minutes to do a normal sized car and maybe 25 minutes to do a minivan or SUV.
I recommend the paste fleetwax. see this test on the fleetwax http://www.greatcove.org/read_boat_wax_chart.htm
It goes on easy and comes off with now white residue or hard rubbing. They best thing about this wax is its durability. I live in the northeast and it lasts all winter. I wax mine in the spring and again in the fall.
I have friends that used griots, zaino, meguires, you name it.
They all use Collinite now.
And also is this easily available at Pep Boys or local auto shops?
Z6 use is a bit unusual in that very little is used. Most QD's and spray waxes need a good squirt on the panel to work properly. Just a nice even mist will do the trick.
I'm seeing Meguiar's Quik Wax everywhere I go.