Clay won't take out swirls, clay will take off surface contamination, i.e. stuff above the surface. Swirls are in the surface. Go right to glaze or swirl remover.
Clay 3M Imperial Hand Glaze (twice!) 3 coats of a polymer banned from this discussion board (#5)
It did remove alot of the swirl marks, but some still remain. Here's a question - is 3M Swirl Mark Remover better than Imperial Hand Glaze at removing swirl marks?
In the 3M vocab the "glaze" is JUST a paint 'glossifier', it does NOT have even the abrasive 'power' of clay.
If you want to stick with 3M you can try "Perfect-It™ Foam Polishing Pad Glaze Swirlmark Remover" it comes a formula for light & a different formula for dark colored vehicles.
AFTER the Swirlmark remover you will need wax and/or glaze and/OR the "polymer that has it's own forum..."
Thanks for the tip. I'm not wedded to 3M, so any other product that may be better is OK with me. Is the Perfect-It your first choice in removing swirl marks?
The 3M prodcut is good, it is not cheap, but as long you aren't using constantly it should not burn a whole in your wallet. Meguiers is often avaible at a better price. The "Safe Cut" swirl remover from "The Wax Shop" is dirt cheap at one auto parts shop by me that specializes in VW parts, but it smells awful (turpentine type odor). Those are the only products I've used. This was for my dark blue car that did look pretty good , until it got stolen
The key to getting the swirl marks eliminated is patience -- you will need to remove just the tiniest bit with each each swipe. If you are doing this by hand you will probably get tired before the whole car is done. If you don't have the experience with a buffer to barely touch the paint, than don't use that.
I used to make a "pad" of rags (cotton and pure wool fabric scraps from a seamtress) and that seem s to work pretty well.
The rear trunk emblem came off when I was detailing it. Looks like the adhesive has worn out. I think you peel off backing then press the emblem into place. Any suggestions for re attaching. Thanks
People have said that they wash their car after claying, is it adequate to just rinse it off or do I actually need to wash the car with soap again prior to polishing/waxing?
Personally I've never washed after clayed. Seems overkill to me. But I understand why some do this. If you want to rinse, I'm sure it'll be OK.
One reason I don't wash after clay is leaking water screws up my polishing regimen. Once I've washed, dried, and clayed a car, I don't want to get it wet again as I'm trying to avoid water coming out of body seams, window trim, etc. It just makes a mess of my polishing.
But it's certainly your call. Do what you think is best for your car.
I've done it both ways - no washing after claying and just rinsing. I personally like to rinse the car again. It just seems cleaner to me. Bretfraz is correct, though, you have to be careful to completely dry your car because any water droplets will mess up your polishing routine.
It's amazing where water will hide - taillights and car emblems seem to be the main culprits.
One practical reason why I like to wash a second time is that I hate to use a clean towel just to remove any clay lube residue when my wash mitt is still handy.
Your results should be the same if you wash a second time or not.
The normal routine is to wash again after claying if you are using soapy water as your lubricant for claying but not necessary if you are using a clay lubricant or quick detail spray as your lubricant. You certainly don't want any clay residue getting rubbed into your paint as you polish. If their is no residue then there is no need to wash again.....better safe than sorry. It is a lot easier to wash and dry the car than to remove scratches or swirls.
Lapvn, actually I think 303 says not to put on dash first if you are going to install a dash cover because the adhesive velcro tabs to hold the cover in place will not adhere properly. I doubt the car was 303'd before I bought it. Ha Ha Ha
The dealer wanted $50 for a new gold plastic Lexus emblem. I opted for some 3M double sided tape that was free from a local auto body shop. Cleaned up the old one and put it back on. Actually I would have left it off all together if there were not two small holes in the back trunk where the old one fell off.
After applying LG on the car, what is the best to maintain before the next application? Just washing maybe?
I inquired with LG and they offered the following suggestion, quote:
"We do not recommend the use of quick detail sprays over your Liquid Glass Polish/Finish. The residue they leave behind may make it difficult for subsequent coats of Liquid Glass Polish/Finish to adhere properly.
Since we do not offer a detail spray, some customers make their own by mixing a small portion (5-10%) of Liquid Glass Polish/Finish in a spray bottle with water. Although the Product does not mix well with water, the mixture seems to work"
Any other suggestions? Thank you.
By the way - LG aslo said that there is no additional benefit in letting the Product stand longer on the paint surface before buffing.
I understand what LG is saying and agree with them to a point. But I think you can use detail sprays with no problems or worries.
Look at it this way: The next time you want to apply another coat of LG on your car, you're gonna wash it first, right? Well, the washing will remove any residue left from the detail spray. Plus, detail spray protectants don't last that long on a car, a few days to maybe a week. IOW, whatever residue was left from the detail spray will likely be long gone when you're ready for more LG.
I don't like the idea of mixing LG and water and it seems like they don't either. LG is pretty high in solvents which do not mix with water very well. So its kind of a waste of product if ya ask me.
you are always a good resource. Helped a lot clearing my mind about that one.
BTW, I used the LG after reading the postings in this forum, and I am very satisfied with the result. May not be the best out there, but for what I can buy readily, I will rate it very good. I do not know how long it will last, but knowing myself I have no problem applying it sooner than suggested.
I recently started using a brand which is new to the U.S but has been in Germany for many years. It's called Einszett (or 1Z). It's a little pricey, but one container lasts forever and they offer a moneyback guarantee (even if it took you a whole container to decide you didn't like it).
In addition to having a very easy to apply, long-lasting deep wax, they also have 3 different levels of polish. The polishes work wonders for removing swirls. We did a dark red car with tons of swirls in it. We used the one called "Paint Polish" and it was great! We couldn't find even one small scratch or swirl in the car at all. Of course, it still had some chunks of missing paint where pebbles had hit the hood, but that was it. I should mention that we always polish using the Porter Cable Dual Action polisher. I'm sure part of the success was due to the Porter Cable. Still, the Einszett was amazing!
Thought I'd mention it in case anyone out there is looking to try something new. I'm glad the Germans decided to share this one with us! :-)
Hi all. This is the first time I've ever owned a new car (those 1.9% financing deals beat the 5.5% rates for used!). I confess I was pretty lax with washing my previous car ('92 Saturn SL2)and don't think I waxed it once in the 9 years I owned it.
Here are my questions...
1) How often do I wash my new car? 2) Can I run it through a car wash? 3) What wash and wax should I use for hand washes? (Owner's manual says dishwashing detergent, but this site seems to discourage any detergents.) 4) Is a paint sealant necessary on Hondas?
Off topic, but I have to ask...is anyone else finding Honda driver's seats uncomfortable?
I have owned and/or cared for about a dozen or so cars, some purchased new, others used. There is no magic formula to how often you "must" wash/wax your car. Some obvious points: #1 -- Road salt is the WORST thing that ever touches any car, get it off as soon as you can - it will destroy the car's value. #2 If/when your car gets any kind of damage that scratches/chips the paint fix it FAST -- it will RUST #3 Parking in a garage/carport will extend the life of your car's finish tremendously. An unbelievable amount of crud falls from the sky everyday. Some is from "industrial sources" but a great deal is from trees, plants, birds, bugs and even the morning dew.
OK, that said I think it is reasonable to expect to wash your car at least monthly. More than that won't hurt with the right choices. Less than that will mean that your car gets quite dirty between washes. The presence of dirt can (and does) increase the likelihood of crud damaging and/or scratching the paint. If you want to avoid "swirl marks" then avoid automatic carwashes. Even "soft cloth" car washes are pretty crummy. The drive through car washes that rely only on pressurized water are unlikely to damage your paint, nor will they remove most high quality waxes/polymers -- however if you car is not well 'waxed' beforehand and/or it is EXTREMELY dirty, don't expect such washes to get the car really clean...
You can get a very nice shine from almost any "wax", but most folks want products that continue to protect for a long time and are worth the effort. The long lasting products are almost exclusively polymers as opposed to plant derived wax ("carnauba"). Even the best products need to be applied at least several times a year. With some products you can safely "reapply" without fear of a discoloring build-up -- other products basically require you to "start from scratch".
Dishwasher detergent (like "Dawn") are designed to remove most/all of the waxes that sit on top of your cars' paint. It is safe for the paint but removes the wax/polymer. Folks who use products that "build-up" nice layers of protections avoid using dishwashing detergent unless/until they have to remove the wax/polymer.
A dealer sold "paint sealant" is a GIANT WASTE OF MONEY!!! No such product is any better than products you can apply yourself. No vehicle, Honda or otherwise, "needs" such a ripoff. If the salesperson drones on about it tell them to SHUT UP or else...
As to specific "product recommendations" read the posts in this forum and the related fora here on Edmunds and around the web. You will see lots of posts from supporters of the well known brands available in WalMart(NuFinish, RainDance), the specialty brands that you'd find in an auto parts store/boutique(Mequiars, Zymol) and those who like brands that have more limited distribution(Zaino). You have to decide how much cost & effort you are willing to invest in the care of your car. Read about the downsides of some of the "over the counter" products BEFORE you decide to use anything. Investigate the less well known brands.
I also have a 2003 Honda Civic EX and I have found it to be the hardest car to get wax off of I have ever seen. I have waxed Ford's, Chevy's, Volvo's, Toyota's, Isuzu's and never had any problems getting the wax off. I normally use Meguiers #26 liquid which on other vehicles is a snap to use. I tried claying first, using #9 and #7 and the wax it still hard to wipe off. I do have to say though it does look great when I'm done but it takes forever! Is there something I'm missing?
The type of car shouldn't make a difference, especially when you use the SMR and glaze prior to waxing. The wax doesn't know what car its being applied to.
Are you applying it thicker than normal? Are you using it in high heat and humidity? Usually when a wax is hard to remove its because the user applied it too thickly or they used it on a hot surface which dried it too quickly. Some carnaubas can be a bear to remove if allowed to fully dry.
Its possible you just have a bad sample. Is the #26 you're using a new bottle? Have you tried the #26 paste? Paste waxes are usually easier to use by hand while liquids are best used by machine.
Just throwin' out some thoughts. Kinda hard to figure out from here.
I didn't think I was applying it any thicker than normal, but I did have to keep shaking the wax to keep it from seperating. I might get a can of #26 paste or 3M show car and see how that works. Thanks for the advice.
If its a fairly new bottle you might want to contact Meguiar's and see if they'll take it back and exchange it for #26 paste. I know #26 liquid will separate but it should not be constantly shaken to maintain the mixture. Based on what you've said I really think you have a defective sample.
Its up to you but its a free call to Meguiar's tech line - (800) 347-5700.
I think the problem with my #26 is I left it in the garage over the winter and it did get below freezing. I only have 1/3 of a bottle left, so no big loss. Is there any difference in durability and ease of use between the liquid or paste?
I've pretty much found that paste waxes are both easier to apply and seem to last longer than the comparable liquid. If you haven't used a paste, consider trying it. Interestingly, all the high end carnaubas on the market are paste only.
If you want to try something different than #26, stop by your local Harley Davidson dealer and pick up a jar of S100 wax. Fabulous stuff and only $15.00.
2nd the S100 suggestion from bret. You will never find anything easier to use or anything that looks better for the money than S100. Perfect by itself or as a topper for synthetics.
Fun stuff! It doesn't last long, but I really enjoy applying it. It goes on (literally) like butter. It has no added fragrance, and smells like birthday candles.
The trick is to wipe it right off after putting it on each panel. If you wait for it to dry you'll regret it -- it'll dry rock hard and you'll have trouble getting it off. They put that tip in the instructions, too.
friend's 95 Civic doesn't look deep enough after I waxed it. She hadn't waxed for about 4 years. I used Mother's cleaner w/carnauba wax. I tried doing the hood a second time, but the depth still isn't there on the dark blue color. Is this just the minimal materials on the part of Honda and the paint just ain't gonna have a deep look again, or should I have used a Mother's cleaner that they called step 1?
Well, a glossy shine is only as good as the paint quality. All the polishing in the world won't make tired paint look showroom new.
Having said that, usually a paint polish like Mother's Step 1, aka Pre Wax Cleaner, will help improve the overall shine by removing oxidation, swirls, and light scratches.
I think this is one of those situations where some experimentation is needed. I wish I could say exactly what would work but if I were there I'd try a few products and gauge results.
I read from other sites as well as posts from forums that wax contain petroleum will ruin the paint's finish. Most suggest Mother's and Meguiars, but when I read the back/side of the container, they also do contain petroleum.
One site even claim that products has warning about Skin, eyes,...etc and not to use on rubber, vinyl ...etc. are because they contain petroleum and other chemical since Carnauba was is natural, it won't harm you or your plastic, rubber...etc. But all the wax(turtel, mother's, meguiars, armor all) I check out has the same warning. Does it mean I should not use them?
So how pure of Carnauba wax is pure? Obviously not 100%, it would be solid, how can you tell you are not buying product that contain petroleum?
I tried some Step 1 Mother's I have here and it does make a deeper shine. I can feel the difference with my fingers also. I thought the Cleaner Carnauba Wax by Mother's would do the trick, but it would take 3 or 4 times over to do what the Cleaner with Polish did. Of course the cleaner polish has a head start with the Cleaner Carnauba wax already having been used.
I can only assume that the advice AGAINST "petroleum" was taken out of context/too literally.
First, "wax" is a generic term -- it DOES NOT refer to any specific 'chemical' either found in nature or synthetically made. There are ALL KINDS of "waxes": carnauba is a specific 'wax' from plant sources that has a very complex chemical composition, in addtion to its use for car & floor 'wax" it is an important additive in the making of many drugs and some foods, there is "bees wax" which is similary 'natural' and contains a range of naturally occuring chemical - it makes nice candles and finds its way into other products, there is "paraffin" which comes from petroleum, "silicon wax(es)" which are made from polymers, et cetera.
As to "petroleum distillates" this basically refers to everything from ether to paraffin with stuff like mineral oil, petroleum jelly, benzene, gasoline, heptane, octane,toluene, kerosene and xylene thrown in for good measure. While I doubt that every automotive finish/surface is 'impervious' to all those "petro-chemicals" I think it is safe to assume that ANY reputable automotive 'wax' will contain quantities of those petrochemicals that are compatible with the majority of automotive surfaces...
Why the "label warning" -- well, NONE of these things is tested/recommended as a "SKIN OINTMENT" or "DESSERT TOPPING" and you know w/o the warning somebody will EAT the stuff/SLATHER all over their chest before heading to the beach & then call the LAWYERS... That said, I gotta believe that none of the products represent anything more harmful that stuff in your laundry room already...
As a side note, the actual "soup" of chemicals that make up "Carnauba wax" is mostly long chain hydrocarbons, "fatty acids" and "primary alcohols". "Long chain hydrocarbons" are the things that we commonly think of as fats: "cholestorl" "coco butter" "lard" lanolin" "tallow" are all rich sources of these. "Fatty acids" are so named because of their original source: fats, like rancid butter. They tend to be viscous liquids that are often the responsible for/related to the initial decomposition of fats. "Primary alcohols" tend to be capable of slightly dissolving fats. Thus the "synthetic" petroleum based products mimic the "natural" product by being "long chain hydorcarbons pumped up with 'solvents'...
My advice: use the stuff that lasts the longest & looks the best -- leave the chemistry to somebody in a lab coat...
Hi all.....It's been a while for this board but the new edition to the family has me perplexed on how to properly care for her. Earlier this Spring Bretfaz pointed me to Meguiar's Polish which has been great but was wondering do I need to wax afterwards in order to "seal" the polish in? If so which kind...carnuba?
Now for the new one....the black boxster with a few visible swirls I'm guessing resulting from the dealer prepping the car. Probably will get the 3M swirl mark remover but don't know what type of towel or where to get them to prevent future swirls from happening. When I'm about to buy a microfiber towel, I hear something bad and vice versa! The second I am about to order the Califronia Wiping Blade, I hear how bad it is that you are dragging/possibly scratching you car if any tiny dirt molecule has escaped the washing. When I'm about to buy a rotary buffer, I hear that should wax/polish in straight lines. Help I'm completely lost! So basically:
1. Wax (which one) after polishing?
2. How to dry without swirling?
Sorry for the length but I'm clueless now!
thanks fo
ps - the meguiar's polish is great! (thanks Bretfaz!)
I'll try and give you some insight to "drying" first, as you have to do that before you wax...
Unfortunately there is no 100% absolutely fool proof/no-downside method of drying (or wash or waxing for that matter) your vehicle -- everything has SOME risk of 'marring' the finish. You have to try and find the BEST COMPROMISE between something that a mortal can achieve and getting the vehicle dry. Obviously you do NOT want to ANY dirt left on the PAINT, but thorough washing/rinsing is really the way to deal with that. Thoroght means you have to go OVERBOARD with the pre-soak & rinsing so that odds are that NO dirt is left behind. Once you are satisfied that NOTHING else can be done to rinse away dirt THEN you can think about drying -- ideally the drying itself will NOT take nearly as much time as the whole pre-soak/wash/rinse. With that in mind then you can focus on what gets the most water off the quickest. A "water blade" is good for the "first pass". You could probably get every last micro-droplet of water off with a blad, but that is not smart IMHO as that increases the chance that SOMETHING will get smeared/scratched. Once the majority of the water is off you will need SOMETHING to wipe up those little droplets. The idea of using ONLY WHITE 100% cotton towels is as much to be sure that you SEE any dirt that you encounter will drying -- once you see dirt on what SHOULD BE a 'clean' towel you know your wash really missed something and you GET RID OF THAT TOWEL so that you don't smear/scratch with that dirt...
A microfiber towel OUGHT to be more absorbant BUT if it ain't white/is hard to wash out 'stuff' from previous car washing events than the advantage is LOST... A chamois is has similar problems, and is not really much more absorbant than a good cotton towel anyhow...
WOW -- that is a lot on just DRYING...
Wax is more subjective. Some folks SWEAR by the "Meguairs Hi-Tech Wax" -- it is good stuff that last a reasoably long time, has NO icky polish-type compunds to mess up that polishing step that you have worked on and is a good choice. Other good choices have NO polishes, last a long time and are easy to put on/buff off. This includes the "good Zymol", and other hard to find "no polish" Carnuba based waxes AND the various polymer type "sealant/waxes".
Most folks will agree that IF you get a GOOD QUALITY product you can get it applied/buffed BY HAND with no need for a rotary machine. The potential time savings of a machine are offset by the fact that is takes MUCH more skill/practice to AVOID the dreaded SWIRLS then simply sticking to "muscle power"...
Washing also can cause micromarring. I suggest using 100% cotton chenille wash mitts or pure lambswool mitts. Use at least two every time you wash - one for the upper half of the car and another for the lower half. Use a separate tool (mitt or brush) for wheels and tires.
It's also a good idea to use the "two bucket wash method". One bucket is filled with soapy water and the other with plain water. After you've washed a section of your car, dunk the mitt into the plain water bucket and rinse off any dirt and contaminents. Then dunk back into the soapy bucket and continue washing. Many times dirt dragged around the car during the wash will cause those annoying microswirls so whatever you can do to minimize them is a good thing.
Thanks for the info guys - will follow. But I misspoke and I have been using Meguir's #20 sealant and not the polish. Do I need to use wax on top of this sealant, instead of, or not at all? Dp ypu recommend a polish after all?
Also, another fellow boxster owner recommended "The Absorber" which he has been using on his black beauty without any trouble. Try it or just get the 100% white cotton towels?
Try a waffleweave microfiber towel and you will forget about the absorber and terry cloth towels for drying. There is no comparison. I personally would recommend www.pakshak.com for MF towels. You can thank me later!
No, you do not have to top the #20 with anything. Many people do, but it is not required to "seal" anything in...it seals itself. Topping it with a carnauba will not alter the durability either, but it will often times give it a different look. Try some #26 on top, you might really like it. I think it produces a deeper reflection, though maybe not as bright.
I have the Calif. Water Blade and have used it for the past 2 years...love it! That combined with a waffle-weave towel make for very quick drying. You'll find out shortly that people either love it or hate it, there is no middle ground. When you try it, monitor its performance on your car's finish...if you run into problems, ditch it. But if it works for you, then great! If you choose not to use it, there are many other ways to dry a car, you'll have to see which is best for you, and the only way to do that is try everything!! Good luck! -Brian
As a newbee to this forum, I have some very basic and probably pretty dumb question(s). What is the purpose of claying? What does it accomplish? Where in the order of detailing should it be done? OK for new cars, as well as, older cars? I guess, I am looking for a brief tutorial on claying. Thanks.
most 'gentle' sort of polishing compound ever. It doesn't even actually "polish" the paint/clear coat -- it "erases" stuff that sits on top of the finish.
You use it after washing, to remove the "stuff" that is not water soluble. That includes things like overspray, air-borne pollutants, and "environmental fallout" from natural & industrial sources.
It can be useful for "new" cars, especially if the dealer prep and/or transport of the car was not up to snuff. Older cars can pretty much always benefit from it BUT if the paint has serious problems you may need a traditional buffing compound to actually remove some of the damaged paint...
The nice thing about claying is that with almost every version of the product it is hard to screw-up -- you can't work the clay too hard it literally will fall apart before you'd damage the paint. As you turn the clay "bar" (most folks work it into sort of a pancake or sausage) you will see "stuff" that used to be stuck to the finish that is clayed off. Most cars/small trucks can be done in an hour or so. After claying (and washing/rinsing away the clay residue) you can either go right to sealants/waxes to "seal up" the now cleaner than ever finish or you may decide you need a more aggressive swirl remover/polish/compound.
Go to Wally World and for less than $10 get the Clay Magic (comes with lube spray). Wash your car. Before you try claying put your hand in a sandwich baggie and gently run the baggie across a spot on your hood....it will probably grab and drag big time. Spray some lube on and run the clay bar back and forth a couple of times and dry with a MF towel. Try the baggie thing again. Now you know what claying does for the car.....it will be so smooooth! Don't be afraid to clay your car. It is extremely easy to do, takes 40-45 minutes for average size car, and you will get tremendous results. It will make polishing or waxing your car easier and it will look much better.
While washing my friend's car, I came across some marks that I thought were scracthes, but my friend thinks it is hard, dried bubble gum!! It has a stringy pattern like gum, although it is brown and hard. It would not come off without VERY hard abrasive (like scratching with a fingernail) rubbing.
Does anyone know what product would get it off without damaging the paint?
I would clay the spot right away. If that didn't work or you don't have clay, I would soak a cotton ball with vinegar and lay it on/masking tape it to the spot for a while. Often such spots are minerals that were in the water; vinegar softens those minerals so that they can be wiped off.
atoews, I have run into the dry water spots problem many times. One solution that works for me is to use a clean cotton towel that is spinkled with just a touch of water, not really damp. Then use a product like McGuire's #6 Cleaner/Polisher and the water spots come right off with very little rubbing. Let dry for a few seconds and buff off with a clean towel. Seams to be a simple, easy solution.
Try a little quick detailer spray to remove dried water spots. You've got the typical Cali hard water issues so the sooner you can get the spots off, the better.
As for the gum residue, try something like mineral spirits or wax and grease remover.
Are water spots mineral deposits from the water that dries or are they from the detergent or wax in the car wash that is soft when it dries? If it's mineral in nature, it would seem to me that you would want to use car wash detergents to redissolve the particles or at least suspend them to avoid scratching the finish with the mineral particles...
Comments
Clay
3M Imperial Hand Glaze (twice!)
3 coats of a polymer banned from this discussion board (#5)
It did remove alot of the swirl marks, but some still remain. Here's a question - is 3M Swirl Mark Remover better than Imperial Hand Glaze at removing swirl marks?
In the 3M vocab the "glaze" is JUST a paint 'glossifier', it does NOT have even the abrasive 'power' of clay.
If you want to stick with 3M you can try "Perfect-It™ Foam Polishing Pad Glaze Swirlmark Remover" it comes a formula for light & a different formula for dark colored vehicles.
AFTER the Swirlmark remover you will need wax and/or glaze and/OR the "polymer that has it's own forum..."
The key to getting the swirl marks eliminated is patience -- you will need to remove just the tiniest bit with each each swipe. If you are doing this by hand you will probably get tired before the whole car is done. If you don't have the experience with a buffer to barely touch the paint, than don't use that.
I used to make a "pad" of rags (cotton and pure wool fabric scraps from a seamtress) and that seem s to work pretty well.
Good Luck
I know you love that stuff, and I blame you for getting me hook onto it.
Sorry no advice for you though, good luck. What about contacting the dealer to see what they suggest or if they sell something.
One reason I don't wash after clay is leaking water screws up my polishing regimen. Once I've washed, dried, and clayed a car, I don't want to get it wet again as I'm trying to avoid water coming out of body seams, window trim, etc. It just makes a mess of my polishing.
But it's certainly your call. Do what you think is best for your car.
It's amazing where water will hide - taillights and car emblems seem to be the main culprits.
One practical reason why I like to wash a second time is that I hate to use a clean towel just to remove any clay lube residue when my wash mitt is still handy.
Your results should be the same if you wash a second time or not.
The dealer wanted $50 for a new gold plastic Lexus emblem. I opted for some 3M double sided tape that was free from a local auto body shop. Cleaned up the old one and put it back on. Actually I would have left it off all together if there were not two small holes in the back trunk where the old one fell off.
I inquired with LG and they offered the following suggestion, quote:
"We do not recommend the use of quick detail sprays over your Liquid Glass Polish/Finish. The residue they leave behind may make it difficult for subsequent coats of Liquid Glass Polish/Finish to adhere properly.
Since we do not offer a detail spray, some customers make their own by mixing a small portion (5-10%) of Liquid Glass Polish/Finish in a spray bottle with water. Although the Product does not mix well with water, the mixture seems to work"
Any other suggestions? Thank you.
By the way - LG aslo said that there is no additional benefit in letting the Product stand longer on the paint surface before buffing.
Look at it this way: The next time you want to apply another coat of LG on your car, you're gonna wash it first, right? Well, the washing will remove any residue left from the detail spray. Plus, detail spray protectants don't last that long on a car, a few days to maybe a week. IOW, whatever residue was left from the detail spray will likely be long gone when you're ready for more LG.
I don't like the idea of mixing LG and water and it seems like they don't either. LG is pretty high in solvents which do not mix with water very well. So its kind of a waste of product if ya ask me.
Anyhoo, hope this helps.
BTW, I used the LG after reading the postings in this forum, and I am very satisfied with the result. May not be the best out there, but for what I can buy readily, I will rate it very good. I do not know how long it will last, but knowing myself I have no problem applying it sooner than suggested.
In addition to having a very easy to apply, long-lasting deep wax, they also have 3 different levels of polish. The polishes work wonders for removing swirls. We did a dark red car with tons of swirls in it. We used the one called "Paint Polish" and it was great! We couldn't find even one small scratch or swirl in the car at all. Of course, it still had some chunks of missing paint where pebbles had hit the hood, but that was it. I should mention that we always polish using the Porter Cable Dual Action polisher. I'm sure part of the success was due to the Porter Cable. Still, the Einszett was amazing!
Thought I'd mention it in case anyone out there is looking to try something new. I'm glad the Germans decided to share this one with us! :-)
Here are my questions...
1) How often do I wash my new car?
2) Can I run it through a car wash?
3) What wash and wax should I use for hand washes? (Owner's manual says dishwashing detergent, but this site seems to discourage any detergents.)
4) Is a paint sealant necessary on Hondas?
Off topic, but I have to ask...is anyone else finding Honda driver's seats uncomfortable?
OK, that said I think it is reasonable to expect to wash your car at least monthly. More than that won't hurt with the right choices. Less than that will mean that your car gets quite dirty between washes. The presence of dirt can (and does) increase the likelihood of crud damaging and/or scratching the paint. If you want to avoid "swirl marks" then avoid automatic carwashes. Even "soft cloth" car washes are pretty crummy. The drive through car washes that rely only on pressurized water are unlikely to damage your paint, nor will they remove most high quality waxes/polymers -- however if you car is not well 'waxed' beforehand and/or it is EXTREMELY dirty, don't expect such washes to get the car really clean...
You can get a very nice shine from almost any "wax", but most folks want products that continue to protect for a long time and are worth the effort. The long lasting products are almost exclusively polymers as opposed to plant derived wax ("carnauba"). Even the best products need to be applied at least several times a year. With some products you can safely "reapply" without fear of a discoloring build-up -- other products basically require you to "start from scratch".
Dishwasher detergent (like "Dawn") are designed to remove most/all of the waxes that sit on top of your cars' paint. It is safe for the paint but removes the wax/polymer. Folks who use products that "build-up" nice layers of protections avoid using dishwashing detergent unless/until they have to remove the wax/polymer.
A dealer sold "paint sealant" is a GIANT WASTE OF MONEY!!! No such product is any better than products you can apply yourself. No vehicle, Honda or otherwise, "needs" such a ripoff. If the salesperson drones on about it tell them to SHUT UP or else...
As to specific "product recommendations" read the posts in this forum and the related fora here on Edmunds and around the web. You will see lots of posts from supporters of the well known brands available in WalMart(NuFinish, RainDance), the specialty brands that you'd find in an auto parts store/boutique(Mequiars, Zymol) and those who like brands that have more limited distribution(Zaino). You have to decide how much cost & effort you are willing to invest in the care of your car. Read about the downsides of some of the "over the counter" products BEFORE you decide to use anything. Investigate the less well known brands.
Have fun with your Honda!!
Are you applying it thicker than normal? Are you using it in high heat and humidity? Usually when a wax is hard to remove its because the user applied it too thickly or they used it on a hot surface which dried it too quickly. Some carnaubas can be a bear to remove if allowed to fully dry.
Its possible you just have a bad sample. Is the #26 you're using a new bottle? Have you tried the #26 paste? Paste waxes are usually easier to use by hand while liquids are best used by machine.
Just throwin' out some thoughts. Kinda hard to figure out from here.
Its up to you but its a free call to Meguiar's tech line - (800) 347-5700.
way to treat it or dye it back to a reasonable color close to the original?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
http://eastwoodcompany.com/aspfiles/itemdy01.asp?UID=200308041313- 3750&T1=52078+Z&Dep_Key1=InEx
If the deck is covered with velour or carpet try this:
http://www.msitrt.com/car_brite_aerosol_carpet.htm
In any event, if you don't want to go the DIY route, any good upholstery shop should be able to do the job.
If you want to try something different than #26, stop by your local Harley Davidson dealer and pick up a jar of S100 wax. Fabulous stuff and only $15.00.
The trick is to wipe it right off after putting it on each panel. If you wait for it to dry you'll regret it -- it'll dry rock hard and you'll have trouble getting it off. They put that tip in the instructions, too.
Sean
Is this just the minimal materials on the part of Honda and the paint just ain't gonna have a deep look again, or should I have used a Mother's cleaner that they called step 1?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Having said that, usually a paint polish like Mother's Step 1, aka Pre Wax Cleaner, will help improve the overall shine by removing oxidation, swirls, and light scratches.
I think this is one of those situations where some experimentation is needed. I wish I could say exactly what would work but if I were there I'd try a few products and gauge results.
I wish I could offer more help. Good luck.
One site even claim that products has warning about Skin, eyes,...etc and not to use on rubber, vinyl ...etc. are because they contain petroleum and other chemical since Carnauba was is natural, it won't harm you or your plastic, rubber...etc. But all the wax(turtel, mother's, meguiars, armor all) I check out has the same warning. Does it mean I should not use them?
So how pure of Carnauba wax is pure? Obviously not 100%, it would be solid, how can you tell you are not buying product that contain petroleum?
Thanks
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
First, "wax" is a generic term -- it DOES NOT refer to any specific 'chemical' either found in nature or synthetically made. There are ALL KINDS of "waxes": carnauba is a specific 'wax' from plant sources that has a very complex chemical composition, in addtion to its use for car & floor 'wax" it is an important additive in the making of many drugs and some foods, there is "bees wax" which is similary 'natural' and contains a range of naturally occuring chemical - it makes nice candles and finds its way into other products, there is "paraffin" which comes from petroleum, "silicon wax(es)" which are made from polymers, et cetera.
As to "petroleum distillates" this basically refers to everything from ether to paraffin with stuff like mineral oil, petroleum jelly, benzene, gasoline, heptane, octane,toluene, kerosene and xylene thrown in for good measure. While I doubt that every automotive finish/surface is 'impervious' to all those "petro-chemicals" I think it is safe to assume that ANY reputable automotive 'wax' will contain quantities of those petrochemicals that are compatible with the majority of automotive surfaces...
Why the "label warning" -- well, NONE of these things is tested/recommended as a "SKIN OINTMENT" or "DESSERT TOPPING" and you know w/o the warning somebody will EAT the stuff/SLATHER all over their chest before heading to the beach & then call the LAWYERS... That said, I gotta believe that none of the products represent anything more harmful that stuff in your laundry room already...
As a side note, the actual "soup" of chemicals that make up "Carnauba wax" is mostly long chain hydrocarbons, "fatty acids" and "primary alcohols". "Long chain hydrocarbons" are the things that we commonly think of as fats: "cholestorl" "coco butter" "lard" lanolin" "tallow" are all rich sources of these. "Fatty acids" are so named because of their original source: fats, like rancid butter. They tend to be viscous liquids that are often the responsible for/related to the initial decomposition of fats. "Primary alcohols" tend to be capable of slightly dissolving fats. Thus the "synthetic" petroleum based products mimic the "natural" product by being "long chain hydorcarbons pumped up with 'solvents'...
My advice: use the stuff that lasts the longest & looks the best -- leave the chemistry to somebody in a lab coat...
Now for the new one....the black boxster with a few visible swirls I'm guessing resulting from the dealer prepping the car. Probably will get the 3M swirl mark remover but don't know what type of towel or where to get them to prevent future swirls from happening. When I'm about to buy a microfiber towel, I hear something bad and vice versa! The second I am about to order the Califronia Wiping Blade, I hear how bad it is that you are dragging/possibly scratching you car if any tiny dirt molecule has escaped the washing. When I'm about to buy a rotary buffer, I hear that should wax/polish in straight lines. Help I'm completely lost! So basically:
1. Wax (which one) after polishing?
2. How to dry without swirling?
Sorry for the length but I'm clueless now!
thanks
fo
ps - the meguiar's polish is great! (thanks Bretfaz!)
Unfortunately there is no 100% absolutely fool proof/no-downside method of drying (or wash or waxing for that matter) your vehicle -- everything has SOME risk of 'marring' the finish. You have to try and find the BEST COMPROMISE between something that a mortal can achieve and getting the vehicle dry. Obviously you do NOT want to ANY dirt left on the PAINT, but thorough washing/rinsing is really the way to deal with that. Thoroght means you have to go OVERBOARD with the pre-soak & rinsing so that odds are that NO dirt is left behind. Once you are satisfied that NOTHING else can be done to rinse away dirt THEN you can think about drying -- ideally the drying itself will NOT take nearly as much time as the whole pre-soak/wash/rinse. With that in mind then you can focus on what gets the most water off the quickest. A "water blade" is good for the "first pass". You could probably get every last micro-droplet of water off with a blad, but that is not smart IMHO as that increases the chance that SOMETHING will get smeared/scratched. Once the majority of the water is off you will need SOMETHING to wipe up those little droplets. The idea of using ONLY WHITE 100% cotton towels is as much to be sure that you SEE any dirt that you encounter will drying -- once you see dirt on what SHOULD BE a 'clean' towel you know your wash really missed something and you GET RID OF THAT TOWEL so that you don't smear/scratch with that dirt...
A microfiber towel OUGHT to be more absorbant BUT if it ain't white/is hard to wash out 'stuff' from previous car washing events than the advantage is LOST... A chamois is has similar problems, and is not really much more absorbant than a good cotton towel anyhow...
WOW -- that is a lot on just DRYING...
Wax is more subjective. Some folks SWEAR by the "Meguairs Hi-Tech Wax" -- it is good stuff that last a reasoably long time, has NO icky polish-type compunds to mess up that polishing step that you have worked on and is a good choice. Other good choices have NO polishes, last a long time and are easy to put on/buff off. This includes the "good Zymol", and other hard to find "no polish" Carnuba based waxes AND the various polymer type "sealant/waxes".
Most folks will agree that IF you get a GOOD QUALITY product you can get it applied/buffed BY HAND with no need for a rotary machine. The potential time savings of a machine are offset by the fact that is takes MUCH more skill/practice to AVOID the dreaded SWIRLS then simply sticking to "muscle power"...
It's also a good idea to use the "two bucket wash method". One bucket is filled with soapy water and the other with plain water. After you've washed a section of your car, dunk the mitt into the plain water bucket and rinse off any dirt and contaminents. Then dunk back into the soapy bucket and continue washing. Many times dirt dragged around the car during the wash will cause those annoying microswirls so whatever you can do to minimize them is a good thing.
Also, another fellow boxster owner recommended "The Absorber" which he has been using on his black beauty without any trouble. Try it or just get the 100% white cotton towels?
thanks again
fo
I have the Calif. Water Blade and have used it for the past 2 years...love it! That combined with a waffle-weave towel make for very quick drying. You'll find out shortly that people either love it or hate it, there is no middle ground. When you try it, monitor its performance on your car's finish...if you run into problems, ditch it. But if it works for you, then great! If you choose not to use it, there are many other ways to dry a car, you'll have to see which is best for you, and the only way to do that is try everything!! Good luck!
-Brian
You use it after washing, to remove the "stuff" that is not water soluble. That includes things like overspray, air-borne pollutants, and "environmental fallout" from natural & industrial sources.
It can be useful for "new" cars, especially if the dealer prep and/or transport of the car was not up to snuff. Older cars can pretty much always benefit from it BUT if the paint has serious problems you may need a traditional buffing compound to actually remove some of the damaged paint...
The nice thing about claying is that with almost every version of the product it is hard to screw-up -- you can't work the clay too hard it literally will fall apart before you'd damage the paint. As you turn the clay "bar" (most folks work it into sort of a pancake or sausage) you will see "stuff" that used to be stuck to the finish that is clayed off. Most cars/small trucks can be done in an hour or so. After claying (and washing/rinsing away the clay residue) you can either go right to sealants/waxes to "seal up" the now cleaner than ever finish or you may decide you need a more aggressive swirl remover/polish/compound.
Good Luck!
Does anyone know what product would get it off without damaging the paint?
As for the gum residue, try something like mineral spirits or wax and grease remover.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
If it's mineral in nature, it would seem to me that you would want to use car wash detergents to redissolve the particles or at least suspend them to avoid scratching the finish with the mineral particles...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,