Actually, the spots occurred because my car dries so quickly in our climate. Usually, I am able to mitigate the situation by washing early in the morning when the humidity is at a high 20% and the temperature is below 80.
However, last weekend, I was helping a friend with her car, in 90 degree weather, 10% humidity and was unable to rinse/dry quickly enough. Both of our cars had water spots when we were finished, and neither of us felt like rinsing and drying again.
I plan to wash again this weekend - I hope that is soon enough for the spots not to be impossible to get off, but if they dry hard, I'll be needing all your advice.
If the spots are just from washing, then just follow up with a QD. It'll take them right off. You are probably going to get some spots everytime you wash your car, so I always just follow a wash with a QD'ing. Plus, your car will be extra sparkly from the QD...
Well I got my Meguiar's shipment in and set off to make the 1.5 mos old car showroom again(removing some minor swirls). I immediately noticed after drying the car with the microfiber towel from Meguiar's how it really didn't dry, it just smeared and left water spots everywhere! Then to make matters worse, after I grabbed a 100% terry cloth towel to finish the drying, I saw these swirls, which I thought were few, were EVERYWHERE! It was extremely sunny and the car looks good from 10 ft away but the second you walk up to hand's reach, the swirls jump out at you. The car is black by the way!
OK no prob, I'll just apply Meguiar's swirl remover. Only thing that did was leave a haze on the small part of the hood where I tried it out. I can still see the swirls from the right angle.
Are these swirls here for good and should I just accept it? The next black porsche or other nicely kept black car I'll sneak a peak at and see if I see the same thing.
What about this microfiber towel? Am I using it the wrong way?
On a good note, I used the Quick Detail which took those water spots right up!
i'm not that happy w/ my microfibre as well. got them at fred meyer.
btw, u do have to rinse them first when u first get them or else tiny micro fibers will be left behind... r u sure your swirls aren't those hairs? i got them all over my windshield the first time i used them w/o rinsing. they almost look like tiny scratches.
We’ve been using Clay (no brand pref.) and #26 on our red Jeep for quite a while and it’s we love both products and couldn’t begin to say enough good about them.
We have recently purchased a green Miata with a neglected paint finish. I’ve been reading a lot of your posts out here to get “in the know” again and we have chosen the following steps: #9 to remove whatever gunk was on the car and to clean up some of the smaller marks; #2 to remove some of the deeper scratches; #20 to finish it off; #26, maybe to top off the 20, understanding this is not necessary but may add something to the look.
Now, I’ve got questions about #20. We haven’t used this product before however I used Liquid Glass for many years on a white car and was always very happy about that.
Do multiple coats of #20 improve the protection/durability? If multiple coats of #20 are recommended, how long should we wait between applications?
How much time should we wait for #20 to “cure” before applying #26. I think I read that we should wait 24 hours? Is this correct?
Hi all, this seems to be the source for all things paint related so here goes: My "new" car has dirt and tar accumulating in perfectly straight lines along the hood and trunk. I strongly suspect this is because the protective plastic sheets they ship cars in has left a slight sticky residue where the sheets used to be. Does anyone have suggestions as to how to remove the tar and adhesive line without doing too much damage to the finish? Should I use a cleaner wax and concentrate on those areas and therefore have to wax the entire car? Thanks to any and all suggestions.
I am picking up a new car this week (dark blue). Are there any instructions I should forward to the dealer for preparation to avoid swirls or damage to the finish? I am planning on washing it with Meguiars car wash and following up with Meguiars #26 paste. Any insight/experience is welcomed.
If the lines you see are straight and very thin, they might be some kind of glue seam leftover from transport as you surmise. I suggest using 3M Adhesive, Tar, and Wax Remover and a clean towel. The 3M stuff is avail at WalMart and most auto parts stores. You could even use naptha or mineral spirits if you have some in the garage.
Follow up with a wash and some wax and you'll be set. My car had them too around the sunroof so I know (think?) what you're talking about. Should be a piece of cake to fix.
Rule #1 is to prevent the dealer from prepping the car besides peeling off the protective plastic and installing whatever they have to. If the lot boys get ahold of the car it'll be swirled for sure. Talk to the sales manager to ensure your request is followed.
You might want to use a little polish like Meguiar's #7 glaze prior to the #26. Remember the #26 has no cleaners or fillers in it, its a "final step" product. The glaze will fill in any minor flaws, if they exist at all.
I appreciate your advice. The car will be picked up 60 miles away in Gary, Indiana and driven on the Chicago Skyway as a dealer swap. I expect to use the #7 to as a polish/glaze prior to # 26. It is going to encounter city driving soon enough, I just wish that I could wax it first. Thanks again for your input.
Bret, finally got around to purchasing A2Z. Wow is this stuff great. I got so excited with the outcome that I decided to give the car a really good thorough wash and wax. Again, the car is old so I don't need to be picky about the products, but the outcome of the wheels was great. Now the rest of the car looks and shines even better using my cheapy random orbital polisher. I still hesitate on using this on the new car, I still prefer to do that by hand. Again, thanks.
On my way to work today, saw one of those livery cabs giving his car what I would call a "quick detail" job. The bad part is that he was using WINDEX on the body and the glass. I thought to myself, I think windex contains amonia and some form of alcohol that this must be eating his paint little by little.
If you had, you'd know Windex does everything from cleaning windows to healing burns and zits! In reality the guy across the street from me Windexed his cars every night for years. Really didn't seem to cause a problem. Kinda like a Z6 prototype!
What is the consensus on using a product like California Duster then polishing, without a wash directly before - with a detail-level wash having been done the night before?
Basically, last night ran out of time/daylight/wife-patience after washing/drying/interior wipedown/re-drying drips from those @?!@#& hidden spots. I want to know if after work today I can dust it off and do a quick detail type polish. Car is couple months old and babied from the start so don't want to risk swirls (black Acura TSX)...
I would use a CD if I only had time to wash and dry the car in the evening. Pull the car in the garage, and then the following morning use the CD before polishing / waxing.
SInce you have already driven the car today, I would think twice about just doing the CD before waxing / polishing. What if particles were embedded into the paint or what not, is it worth to risk your paint job. I say, just be happy that you were able to wash the car. Maybe next time you will have time to do your entire regimen. Don't take the shortcut and risk any damage, not worth it.
At times I too don't have enough time to do my entire schedule (same reasons as yours) that I just walk away happy that the car is at least clean, and maybe the following weekend that when I can do a full schedule. I usually try to start at 7AM to do my entire regimen so the rest of the day is there for family and house errands. I try to do my leather interior during the week in the garage to break apart my regimen.
I have a question about cloth seats. What is the best way to protect them? Scothguard? 303 Fabric Protection? If you never bring food in the car and keep your car clean, etc. are these things necessary? Has anybody used these products and noticed any difference? And if you do use them how long does it last? Do you have to shampoo the carpet and seats before each use?
I did a search and only found a couple of posts on this and they didn't go into much detail so I apologize if this has been discussed before.
Even if you NEVER eat (or smoke, or drink, or sneeze, or ...) they will STILL have skin flakes, hair, and dirt falling on 'em from open windows and your clothing (of course if you don't wear clothing your, uh, sweat will still get on 'em.
How NOTICABLE this is will be a function of upholstery COLOR. Dark blue and black won't show much besides LINT, unless you go looking for FADE and such in the inside corners.
Light beige will become dark beige over time, light burgundy will become grungy crimson, light grey will either become greasy brown-grey or dusty ash-grey...
Personally I have found that a good soaking of genuine ScotchGard does make even regular dust/dirt a bit easier to brush/vacuum out, but it is not mandatory. As long as the upholstery is reasonably new/ unsoiled a shampoo is not needed, just a thorough brushing/vacuuming. It's "longevity" depends MOSTLY on dirt accumuklation. If the the seats stay mostly clean (by avoiding all the obvious stuff) the ScotchGard will last around a year. If you have to vacuum weekly to keep form noticing the "mess" you will probably need to re-apply quaterly...
I clean the outside windows and also clay, however the inside is starting to have a fog tint, because I am still not sure on what product to use. Can I have your 2 cents please on which window product you prefer and why.
Thanks for the response! One last question. After a year and when it's time to reapply the Scothguard or 303 Fabric Protection will the seats and carpet need to be shampooed or can you just reapply it without having to worry about that? Basically what steps should I take to reapply it, anything special? Thanks again for your help.
Classic motoring get the Viper glass cleaning cloth and use Stoners or Eiman Fabrik. I'll never go back to paper towels for my windows. I had to buy a second one after the wife refused to give it back once she cleaned the mirrors and sliding glass door in the house with it. THIEF, get your own cleaning supplies! Back to MF's the ones for glass do seem to be different than the ones for general waxing etc. Something about how they are split on the ends. The viper works real nice for me.
On "outerwear" the dirt is visible so I generally wash the garment & dry it before reapplication of SG. On "outdoor fabrics" (like tents & tarps) I generally only brush it a bit and then reapply.
Since auto interiors are somewhere between, I try to get by with a vacuum & spot cleaning. If LOTS of soiled areas are present I would shampoo the whole thing and start over...
Have you ever read or ordered GURU Reports? They did a test of numerous waxes and Z topped the list. They just recently did a glass cleaner test that had a lot of good info.
Side note - I think they are based in Virginia and there was one of the GURU's named Bret Frazier with a picture......HEY? doesn't Edmunds own BRETFRAZ live in VA and seem to be the local detailing GURU? Coincidence???????
Seriously gurureports.org, great info, keep up the good work to make my life easier. Same reasons I love Autopia car care and Classic Motoring and still come here to Edmunds for more info gathering and sharing.
Based on recommendations from this board I have been using 3M™ Perfect-It™ Show Car liquid wax on a brand new black Civic. The shine it leaves seems good, but I use it mainly for it's protective and duration qualities.
The problem I'm having is that any kind of dirt seems to bond with this wax. The car seems to get dirty really fast with it and the dirt does not want to come off. Even at a coin-operated car wash with a pressure washer the dirt will not budge. The only way it comes off is with a hand wash. Of course, before I scrub it off (and around and into the paint) I'd at least like some of it to rinse off with water.
Am I doing something wrong? Any other wax suggestions? I don't have time to do clay, cleaner, wax, polish so a one-step product is imperative.
i mixed a routine, kind of to get back to baseline, here's what i did... z7 wash, clay meguiars #58(or 53-the dual action stuff)--no orbital buffer dawn wash 3 coats of z2...heres what i got... people turning their heads, coming up saying like the new car, what do you use for wax, all the stuff you z heads have heard before. the stuff is absolutely fabulous. no rain in site down here for another week. i posted earlier about the z5. has it been out long enough and/or have any of you used it enough to say its better than the old stuff to any appreciable degree? i used my last ounce of z2 and last clay bar so have to place another order. now if i could only get mercedes to put better paint on their cars. ive got a black slk320, 2 years old, looks brand new, thanks to z
Hi all. I've posted a similar message in the other (z) board and I thought I'd ask your opinion also. I've been reading ALL the posts in this and the other wax forum and know one has touched on this topic. I'm looking for a way to get my new Forester through the winters here in the Great White North. Winter here lasts a good four months. (Spring and Fall aren't that warn either) They salt and sand the roads. It can be -22F to -40F for weeks at a time and if you do wash your car there's a good chance you won't be able to get back into it because it will freeze like a big ice cube. I'm planning to have the Forester oil sprayed sometime soon to keep it from rusting. It's a messy business the over spray will attract a lot of dirt and is a bear to remove. It also gets in every crevice of the car. What's a good strategy to clean the car after the oil spray? It seems that your car is never the same after. You can clean the exterior but dirt always collects in the door jams, under the hood etc. its a thick gooey mess and sticks to any cloth or mitt you use to wash with. Is there a foaming grease remover I could use? HELP.
Any other tips or hints on this topic would be greatly appreciated.
how about kerosene? my bro use to use this on his car to REALLY remove the grime on his white car due to heavy diesel-smoke staining on his car paint. HUGE difference after. i'm sure kerosene will remove the oil. just make sure u have a good supply of rags. try on a small section of the car first of course. this will remove everything wax and all so a good waxing (and the other steps mentioned here) would need to be done after.
actually, i did mean to post over there, but i love this camp and have learned tons. most of the time i dont think i have much to offer, but i think both provide a wealth of information. what would be cool is if we could get together for a weekend and have a workshop or something(i know for myself id like to learn how to work correctly the power equipment used for car detailing, maybe get bretf in on it or whoever, pay a nominal fee, and have a few beers along the way.
I have been using this product and still have not formed an opinion. Two things I would like to know 1. Can I use my water blade when using this or must I using towels? (I have only used terry so far followed by a flannel cloth) 2. Can you let this stuff on your windshield and window? (I've worked hard at avoiding this)
here in the south is tough--college football saturdays become as sacred as "sundays". but i think we could probably hit up some of the makers of these products to foot some of the bill and maybe organize the thing if we wanted it to get that big or we could just buy bretf some cold beer and ill bring the dreamland ribs.
I have Sierra Nevada in the fridge so bring something different. Ribs sounds terrific to me. I drove thru Illinois last week; should have stopped and bought some corn straight from the fields.
Month old 2004 dark blue car egged today. I had a coat of Meguiar`s Hi-Tech Carnuba (26 Paste) on it, and the egg seemed to wash off without too much difficulty. Unfortunately it had been on quite a while when I discovered it this evening.
Any special precautions to take, after I inform the coroner of the location of the culprit`s body?
The deposits can usually be removed with white vinegar or a citrus-based cleaner, something acidic which will break the bond of the deposits to the paint.
As for the etching, I know of no product or method that is hand-applied. To remove acid rain damage it always takes a machine and an experienced operator. Sorry.
The egg residue should not be a problem to remove from the car; usually its the shell fragments that do the most damage. Maybe a little bit of light polish like a swirl mark remover is needed.
Just remember to wear gloves, a ski mask, and pick up all shell casings before leaving the scene.
I've never had a problem with vinegar but if it does leave a light residue it will wash off easily. Worse that can happen is you'll need to use a little polish on the area where you used the vinegar but that's all. All I've ever done is wipe off residue with a damp towel.
Good luck. Let us know if the vinegar trick works for you.
Anyone seen that new Mr. Clean Autodry carwash? The site says it won't be in stores until February so I doubt anyone has used it, but was wondering are there similar products like it out there? Do these products work as advertised?
If it does work as described, it makes a lot of sense. Water spots are caused by the dissolved minerals in the water. If the "filter" includes a "ion exhange column" that would effectively demineralize the water, preventing the waterspot from leaving its telltale traces...
The "water sheeting polymer" is probably something MUCH CLOSER to Downy fabric softner than Zaino -- techinically Downy is a kind of "wetting agent" that (among other things) lowers the surface tension of water so that it sheets off instead of beading up -- perhaps a good water to make the product "self drying"...
This is a Proctor&Gamble product -- it won't be cheap.
Comments
However, last weekend, I was helping a friend with her car, in 90 degree weather, 10% humidity and was unable to rinse/dry quickly enough. Both of our cars had water spots when we were finished, and neither of us felt like rinsing and drying again.
I plan to wash again this weekend - I hope that is soon enough for the spots not to be impossible to get off, but if they dry hard, I'll be needing all your advice.
OK no prob, I'll just apply Meguiar's swirl remover. Only thing that did was leave a haze on the small part of the hood where I tried it out. I can still see the swirls from the right angle.
Are these swirls here for good and should I just accept it? The next black porsche or other nicely kept black car I'll sneak a peak at and see if I see the same thing.
What about this microfiber towel? Am I using it the wrong way?
On a good note, I used the Quick Detail which took those water spots right up!
thanks for any & all info
fo
Thanks
btw, u do have to rinse them first when u first get them or else tiny micro fibers will be left behind... r u sure your swirls aren't those hairs? i got them all over my windshield the first time i used them w/o rinsing. they almost look like tiny scratches.
We have recently purchased a green Miata with a neglected paint finish. I’ve been reading a lot of your posts out here to get “in the know” again and we have chosen the following steps:
#9 to remove whatever gunk was on the car and to clean up some of the smaller marks;
#2 to remove some of the deeper scratches;
#20 to finish it off;
#26, maybe to top off the 20, understanding this is not necessary but may add something to the look.
Now, I’ve got questions about #20. We haven’t used this product before however I used Liquid Glass for many years on a white car and was always very happy about that.
Do multiple coats of #20 improve the protection/durability? If multiple coats of #20 are recommended, how long should we wait between applications?
How much time should we wait for #20 to “cure” before applying #26. I think I read that we should wait 24 hours? Is this correct?
Thanks for all the great info.!
Thanks
My "new" car has dirt and tar accumulating in perfectly straight lines along the hood and trunk. I strongly suspect this is because the protective plastic sheets they ship cars in has left a slight sticky residue where the sheets used to be. Does anyone have suggestions as to how to remove the tar and adhesive line without doing too much damage to the finish? Should I use a cleaner wax and concentrate on those areas and therefore have to wax the entire car?
Thanks to any and all suggestions.
I am planning on washing it with Meguiars car wash and following up with Meguiars #26 paste. Any insight/experience is welcomed.
Follow up with a wash and some wax and you'll be set. My car had them too around the sunroof so I know (think?) what you're talking about. Should be a piece of cake to fix.
You might want to use a little polish like Meguiar's #7 glaze prior to the #26. Remember the #26 has no cleaners or fillers in it, its a "final step" product. The glaze will fill in any minor flaws, if they exist at all.
Good luck with your new ride!!
It is going to encounter city driving soon enough, I just wish that I could wax it first. Thanks again for your input.
Again, thanks.
This is exactly what I was looking for,
thanks again!
What is the consensus on using a product like California Duster then polishing, without a wash directly before - with a detail-level wash having been done the night before?
Basically, last night ran out of time/daylight/wife-patience after washing/drying/interior wipedown/re-drying drips from those @?!@#& hidden spots. I want to know if after work today I can dust it off and do a quick detail type polish. Car is couple months old and babied from the start so don't want to risk swirls (black Acura TSX)...
Thanks for the input, y'all,
Squirrel
SInce you have already driven the car today, I would think twice about just doing the CD before waxing / polishing. What if particles were embedded into the paint or what not, is it worth to risk your paint job. I say, just be happy that you were able to wash the car. Maybe next time you will have time to do your entire regimen. Don't take the shortcut and risk any damage, not worth it.
At times I too don't have enough time to do my entire schedule (same reasons as yours) that I just walk away happy that the car is at least clean, and maybe the following weekend that when I can do a full schedule. I usually try to start at 7AM to do my entire regimen so the rest of the day is there for family and house errands. I try to do my leather interior during the week in the garage to break apart my regimen.
I did a search and only found a couple of posts on this and they didn't go into much detail so I apologize if this has been discussed before.
How NOTICABLE this is will be a function of upholstery COLOR. Dark blue and black won't show much besides LINT, unless you go looking for FADE and such in the inside corners.
Light beige will become dark beige over time, light burgundy will become grungy crimson, light grey will either become greasy brown-grey or dusty ash-grey...
Personally I have found that a good soaking of genuine ScotchGard does make even regular dust/dirt a bit easier to brush/vacuum out, but it is not mandatory. As long as the upholstery is reasonably new/ unsoiled a shampoo is not needed, just a thorough brushing/vacuuming. It's "longevity" depends MOSTLY on dirt accumuklation. If the the seats stay mostly clean (by avoiding all the obvious stuff) the ScotchGard will last around a year. If you have to vacuum weekly to keep form noticing the "mess" you will probably need to re-apply quaterly...
Thank you for your clean input
I use it with a microfiber cloth. You can find those in the same section.
Sean
Since auto interiors are somewhere between, I try to get by with a vacuum & spot cleaning. If LOTS of soiled areas are present I would shampoo the whole thing and start over...
Hope that helps.
Side note - I think they are based in Virginia and there was one of the GURU's named Bret Frazier with a picture......HEY? doesn't Edmunds own BRETFRAZ live in VA and seem to be the local detailing GURU? Coincidence???????
Seriously gurureports.org, great info, keep up the good work to make my life easier. Same reasons I love Autopia car care and Classic Motoring and still come here to Edmunds for more info gathering and sharing.
The problem I'm having is that any kind of dirt seems to bond with this wax. The car seems to get dirty really fast with it and the dirt does not want to come off. Even at a coin-operated car wash with a pressure washer the dirt will not budge. The only way it comes off is with a hand wash. Of course, before I scrub it off (and around and into the paint) I'd at least like some of it to rinse off with water.
Am I doing something wrong? Any other wax suggestions? I don't have time to do clay, cleaner, wax, polish so a one-step product is imperative.
Thanks!!!
Oh yeah, the 303 is great!
z7 wash,
clay
meguiars #58(or 53-the dual action stuff)--no orbital buffer
dawn wash
3 coats of z2...heres what i got...
people turning their heads, coming up saying like the new car, what do you use for wax, all the stuff you z heads have heard before. the stuff is absolutely fabulous. no rain in site down here for another week. i posted earlier about the z5. has it been out long enough and/or have any of you used it enough to say its better than the old stuff to any appreciable degree? i used my last ounce of z2 and last clay bar so have to place another order. now if i could only get mercedes to put better paint on their cars. ive got a black slk320, 2 years old, looks brand new, thanks to z
I've been reading ALL the posts in this and the other wax forum and know one has touched on this topic. I'm looking for a way to get my new Forester through the winters here in the Great White North. Winter here lasts a good four months. (Spring and Fall aren't that warn either) They salt and sand the roads. It can be -22F to -40F for weeks at a time and if you do wash your car there's a good chance you won't be able to get back into it because it will freeze like a big ice cube. I'm planning to have the Forester oil sprayed sometime soon to keep it from rusting. It's a messy business the over spray will attract a lot of dirt and is a bear to remove. It also gets in every crevice of the car.
What's a good strategy to clean the car after the oil spray? It seems that your car is never the same after. You can clean the exterior but dirt always collects in the door jams, under the hood etc. its a thick gooey mess and sticks to any cloth or mitt you use to wash with. Is there a foaming grease remover I could use? HELP.
Any other tips or hints on this topic would be greatly appreciated.
Having a car you care about is a horrible thing.
how about kerosene? my bro use to use this on his car to REALLY remove the grime on his white car due to heavy diesel-smoke staining on his car paint. HUGE difference after. i'm sure kerosene will remove the oil. just make sure u have a good supply of rags. try on a small section of the car first of course. this will remove everything wax and all so a good waxing (and the other steps mentioned here) would need to be done after.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
1. Can I use my water blade when using this or must I using towels? (I have only used terry so far followed by a flannel cloth)
2. Can you let this stuff on your windshield and window? (I've worked hard at avoiding this)
As for the knowlege sharing get together - we can do it at bret's and we can try to use up the hundreds of bottles of car care potions he has!!
I have Sierra Nevada in the fridge so bring something different. Ribs sounds terrific to me. I drove thru Illinois last week; should have stopped and bought some corn straight from the fields.
I don't own a machine ... we'll be applying by hand.
Any special precautions to take, after I inform
the coroner of the location of the culprit`s body?
As for the etching, I know of no product or method that is hand-applied. To remove acid rain damage it always takes a machine and an experienced operator. Sorry.
Just remember to wear gloves, a ski mask, and pick up all shell casings before leaving the scene.
Good luck. Let us know if the vinegar trick works for you.
http://www.homemadesimple.com/mrcleanautodry/index.shtml
The "water sheeting polymer" is probably something MUCH CLOSER to Downy fabric softner than Zaino -- techinically Downy is a kind of "wetting agent" that (among other things) lowers the surface tension of water so that it sheets off instead of beading up -- perhaps a good water to make the product "self drying"...
This is a Proctor&Gamble product -- it won't be cheap.