Yeah it sounds pretty good. On the site it lets you go ahead and order one and the kit they sell includes an extra filter and soap and it costs $29.99. Maybe the store versions won't have the extra filter and soap and will be a little cheaper.
That sounds reasonable but I'm wondering how often you have to buy the soap, replace the filter, and things like that. Could turn out to be expensive like you said.
To my knowledge it has no abrasives. It's a more modern polish compared to the "old standby's" from Meguiar's, #3, #5, and #7, all of which have been around for decades.
On a newer car #81 would be a better choice. Plus you can use it by hand, orbital, or D/A.
I am new to this. I just wanted to keep the water beading on the finish in the past.
But now I live in a neighborhood that seems to have a higher amount of "environmental pollution" than my former neighborhood - my cars get covered with black grit in 4-5 days, and after they come out of the car wash, still feel "gritty" on the top. There are some little specks that are seem to be an alien cross between tree sap, road tar, and maybe refinery discharge (although publicized refinery discharges are, thankfuly, rare) or fireplace gunk (condensed out onto the surface during the night) (regrettably, I live in a tree hugging neighborhood that prefers wood logs to natural gas).
Finally, I drive on country roads more now (to the mountains on the weekends) or on the interstate through farm country, and bugs splats are a problem. I can get most of them off with the windshield cleaners at the gas stations, but specks tend to remain, even after a follow up car wash.
So I have three main concerns: getting the surface clean, which waxing alone (with Zymol the past couple of months) doesn't seem to do; setting down a surface that will be more "gunk repellent" so I don't have to constantly have the cars clayed (hopefull if I wax every two months I can keep the speck build up down); and setting up a "bug repellent" surface on the front end and rear view mirrors, to make bug clean up easier and more thorough.
I know things have gotten tough for my cars' finishes when I can't scrape specks of "environmental pollution" off my Rain-X'd windshield.
Anyway, I tried Bug and Tar from Turtle Wax to remove the specks of dirt on one car, but that didn't work; Zymol wax/cleaner (the mass market version) also didn't work. (Zymol wouldn't even take off low-grade debris on a brand new car that I just bought in LA, which picked up its lesser amounts of gunk from the less hostile, but still polluted, LA docks (new car prep) and dealer lot (of course the dealer just "waxed over" this crud before delivery).
Since Zymol wasn't doing the trick, either to make the surface slicker to let future pollution "release," or to clean the surface in the first place, I decided to try NuFinish, which is recommended in some posts here. I picked some up at WalMart for less than half the price of Zymol, and stuck it in the trunk of my car.
On an unexpected trip back to LA with the new car, I saw a car wash with a $49.95 "wash/clay/was" special and got them to use the NuFinish I was carrying around.
I was quite impressed with the NuFinish results vs. the Zymol I had put on a week before. The car finish felt slippery, smooth, and of course looked pretty good. Of course the second time the car got waxed, it got clayed first, but still most of the car surface had been ok in the first placd, I thought. The earlier Zymol treatment just didn't leave as much "slickness" on the surface as the NuFinish. After my drive back north, the bugs on the front end came off SO much more easily than they had come off the Zymol surface. The car hasn't been outside long enough to pick up any new enviro dirt.
Do you think NuFinish is better than mass market Zymol? It is a heck of a lot cheaper. Also, the petroleum distillates in NuFinish seem to take off some deposits better than the gentler "natural" ingredients in Zymol.
Anyway, I have a full bottle of Zymol and a 1/4 filled bottle left. Should I continue to use the Zymol on my other cars until it is gone? Or just switch to NuFinish. I can probably give the Zymol to someone at work if it comes down to that.
You should probably use a dedicated cleaner/polish. I've used Klasse's All in One, Meg's Medallion Paint Cleaner, and P21's Gloss Enhancer Paint Cleaner (GEPC), and can recommend all.
No wax is going to provide protection from environmental pollutants as well as a sealant. I use Klasse sealant glaze, but there are plenty choices. You can buy Meg's 20 sealant at your local parts store.
You may want to apply a carnuba wax as a topper. Strickly aesthics.
The PDs in NuFinish may help remove debris in your paint, e.g. bugs, but eventually it may also remove your clean coat. It's very abrassive.
The situation you describe, with a high amount of "particulate matter" falling from the skies BEGS for a top quality SEALANT.
The sealant in NuFInish is pretty good, BUT it is LOADED with abrasives as it is a DREADED 'one step' product.
You certainly may NEED an occaisonal shot of 'petro distallates' to get tarry/waxing GOO off the vehicle, but you should NOT make it part of a regaulr routine -- it will eventually dull your finish and may lead to damage.
Ditto on the ABRASIVES in NuFinish -- once in a GREAT WHILE you may want to/need to remove surface oxidation and 'cut' a new surface, but doing this on regualr basis is practically abuse.
FIRST, I would try to find a better (read less exposed) parking situation --ideally a fully enclosed garage, but also a carport, or even a parking pad that is farther away/up-wind from your current "drop zone".
Second, clean the vehicle as well as possible -- use a good quality dish deteregent (like dawn), follow this with a thorought claying. The surface out to be very very smooth.
If the surface is not smooth enough, you may want to get a polish. Use extereme caution, lighter is better!
Third, get a quality sealant/polymer. The Klasse is good, as it the Mequiers, and there are others.
If you want you can put some carnuba WAX over this, but odds are that it is not gonna do much...
I purchased Clay Magic from Wal-Mart, most automotive stores carry some clay bars.
Over a year ago I bought Speed Bead from Stoners products, www.moreshine.com. This has been the very best product that I have ever used. It is very easy and quick, just spray on, spread with cloth over paint and wipe off when dry.
Speed Bead has a very mild clean (no abrasives). They also sell Bead Max Premium Auto Wax which does not have any cleaners in it.
You can check their web site to see where it is available or buy direct on line. You can order 1 can or as many as you want. I order a mixed case of Speed Bead and Bead Max last Tuesday 10/14 and it arrived at my house the NEXT day!
You should be able to wax you car about 5-6 times with 1 can. After my family, friends and neighbors used my Speed Bead, they wanted their own, that's the reason I ordered a case so we all have our own.
Do you like Speed Bead better than Zymol or NuFinish? How would you compare the three?
On the website you noted, they sell a kit containing Speed Bead and Super Bead...do you know what the difference is? I have to assume Super Bead is better, but harder to use, Stoner doesn't say much about it.
I am assuming the Stoner products are polymer based and not carnauba based.
The only negatives I have heard about NuFinish are that it is a little harsh (the cleaning side of the formula) for regular use (if you keep the surface clean via clay, I assume).
Right now I am still waiting to see how my NuFinished Scion xA holds up with the local "environmental pollution." I am going to rewax the xA four weeks after the first wax, and see how the surface feels - after the wash and before the re-waxing, and after the re-waxing. I won't "Dawn" the car since NuFinish recommends, for ideal shine and protection, a second waxing a month later anyway. Maybe this has something to do with "curing" the first coat.
Question: Do I need to "Dawn" the other cars I have to remove the Meguiars the local "quick wax" places put on (or the Zymol I put on myself on one of the cars) or is the "cleaner" part of the NuFinish formula enough to remove the old wax? (Also, a recent post said carnauba over polymer is ok, but what about putting polymer over carnauba?)
To put things in perspective, I am NOT looking for best shine, most water beading - just for a way to minimize environmental pollution build up. The car wash "quick waxes" (applied by hand in 30 minutes, not the spray on junk) were what I was relying on in the past, they "beaded" fine and looked fine after a car wash, but the environmental specks were adhering and not coming off, to the point were my car surface was rough and ugly.
Dawn washing usually removes old wax but it also takes off road grime, oil, grease, and other yucky stuff. It's not a required step but it is a good idea prior to a detail job.
Some folks apply a carnauba wax over a polymer sealant to enhance looks. You can't do it the other way as the oils in the wax interfere with the sealant's ability to bond to the paint surface, which gives it it's durability over wax.
I do not have a classic car.Also i am not after a showroom shine.can anyone suggest a DURABLE long lasting wax/protectant which will stand up to the winter salt and muck which will be present very shortly.
I have used NuFinish, Liquid Crystal and Meguiars and some others that I can't remember. Speed Bead has mild cleaners to remove tar and road grime, Bead Max has no cleaners, they are both easy to use, actually they go on and off the same.
I have not used Zymol, so I can't comment on it's results. What I can say is that I don't want to spend hours every other month waxing a car. I have never had so many people comment on the shine of my vehicles since using Speed Bead/Bead Max. I can put this on my car in less than 20 minutes, let it dry and wipe off.
I think that you should use Speed Bead since you seem to have things in your air. Speed Bead is about as easy as it gets.
The web site tells the difference between their products.
One more thing that I like about using Speed Bead/Bead Max is that there isn't any powdery residue left over when wiping it off. I can touch my paint finish (which I do because if feels soooo smooth) and not leave any finger prints on the car.
Check out their web site again, and go to retailers and see if it is sold locally. I live in N.E.Ohio (bad winters here) and it is not sold locally, ordered on line, very easy and quick delivery.
If the old wax has been on there a couple months at least, the NuFinish will take it off, no problem. With a Dawn wash you'll also remove some filmy grime a milder car shampoo may not so if you have Dawn handy, I say go ahead and wash with it anyway. If you don't have some, no worries.
The Walmart got some Clay Magic back in stock, and I got a kit for $9.95.
I Dawn'd the VW, which had some stain spots, apparently from the local fireplaces. It's not sap, doesn't have any "build up" just a stain.
A lot of the stains rubbed out while washing. NuFinish took the rest out.
After waxing, I wished I had tried the Clay Magic, which I was saving for another car. The washing/waxing got rid of all visible black specs (generic pollution) but the car finish was NOT smooth after the waxing. Clearly there are tons of "micro specks". I finally appreciate what the car detailers have been saying about environmental pollution. Yes, the car is shiny. No, the finish isn't smooth. I just waxed over the pollutants.
Well, I hope Clay Magic is as effective as people say. It costs at least $100 for a clay job where I live, and more if your car finish is "severely polluted."
I did notice one positive: on the hood and roof and top of bumpers (essentially, all top surfaces) there was a lot of "pollution" and I had to rub the wax in fairly hard. On the door panels, the wax went on smooth as silk with no hard rubbing.
So I am hoping that waxing after a clay job will be easy.
BTW, do I have to wash the car after the clay? The instructions say to wipe off the spray lubricant. I don't know if that will interfere with the NuFinish/Zymol.
The short story is, I didn't use the Clay, I saved it for my other car since I thought the cleaner in the NuFinish was taking out the stains and cleaning off the visible specks.
Instead, at the end of the was job, I realized the car had invisible "micro specks" just the stuff the clay would have handled, if I hadn't been too cheap to use it.
The last part of my post, was hoping that claying will make wax application much easier - so that next time, for the whole job, it's not like waxing twice (all that rubbing) and more like waxing 1 1/2 times, in terms of "elbow grease."
I haven't used their spray wax, but I really like Invisible Glass, Tarminator Bug/Tar Remover, and Trim Shine. In fact, I used Trim Shine on all of the black trim on my 137K 1993 Pathfinder SE prior to putting it up for sale and it ended up looking brand new. So new that the first person who looked at it bought it.
I bought a little bottle of Meguiars for black trim, but it was that milky stuff similar to Armor All and although the price was right, didn't do such a good job. Adequate, but not good.
I tried the Stoner's Trim Shine on another car and it worked much better and seems to be holding up.
Just wanted to know if Sequoiasoon's suggestion in message #2977 worked for you. I experienced the same thing you had with the nose mask and am really bummed out about it, my fault though for neglecting to take it off after the downpour last week. Thanks.
Past posts suggests that over the counter products such as Liquid Glass, Mequires #20, Duragloss, etc. are somewhat similar.
In general, is a glaze/sealant step NOT recommended with these products (ie - Mequires #7)? Will it interfer with the poly bonding?
What about pre wax cleaner/polish? Liquid Glass recommends their product for their sealant, but nobody stocks it. Could a paint cleaner like Mother's step 1, or Mequires Deep Crystal Paint cleaner or Medallion paint cleaner be used before Liquid Glass? - or do they contain polishes that would interfere with the LG?
Thank you. (PS - I know about Dawn wash and claying as first steps).
You are correct, glazes will interfere with any bonding of a polymer agent. Glazes are primarily oils and fillers and both act as barriers to bonding.
Its not necessary to use a proprietary pre-cleaner or polish. You can and should use whatever products you need in order to eliminate paint flaws and restore the finish to your liking.
There is enough chemical cleaner in LG to remove any polish residue but if you want to be on the safe side you can always wash the car after polishing and before sealing.
This new car came without "environmental pollution" - the dealer I bought it from stores most of their cars indoors (they are one of those "office building/parking structure" car dealer setups).
The NuFinish went on smooth as silk - no rubbing required (nothing to clean off).
Left a nice finish that should last a while.
Two comments:
The paint on the Chevy doesn't have the rich glow of my former VW Golf - even a three year old finish on the Golf, which needed clay job.
I picked up some swirl marks on the hood, even though the car was washed, and I applied the NuFinish with a damp application cloth (not terry cloth, a "polish cloth" from Walmart - looks a little like diaper cloth). I did apply in a circular motion, mostly (compared to back and forth as required for Zymol).
The hood was not hot, NuFinish applied in the shade.
BTW, how do you guys like Turtle 200? I see it stocked in Walmart next to the NuFinish all the time.
I haven't been able to locate Speed Bead by Stoner at Autozone or Kragens or Walmart, though I swear I thought I saw it at one of those places a month or so ago (before I heard good things about it here).
My white Focus, Zymol-ed last month, has "tea stains" on the top surfaces again. I think from local fireplaces. Nothing you can feel, literally a stain. When I prepped the Golf to trade in last week, similar stains on the Golf came out via Dawn and a terry cloth. Since I don't want to take the Focus back down to wax free condition again, I may try the Zymol and see if it takes out the "tea stains". I think I just have to re-do the top surfaces - hood, roof, bumper tops, fender tops. I'll keep you posted.
You said that the hood was not hot and you applied NuFinish in the shade.
I have found out through the years that the heat from the engine (doesn't have to be much) will cause the wax/polish to dry faster that the rest of the car. The hood will sometimes have marks on the hood when you wipe it off.
I think that the heat coming from the engine drys the polish too fast before the polish/wax has time to do it's job.
I always make sure that the engine is almost cold if I can and then I don't have that problem.
I haven't tried this product so I really can't say much about it from personal experience. At $30 each + $7 s/h, I don't think I'll be using it anytime soon.
Obviously P&G has done extensive marketing research and realizes there are huge profits to be gained from the car care aftermarket. The amount of advertising, especially towards NASCAR fans, probably says more about the product than its results.
This might be a good tool for those who live in areas of both hot weather and hard water. In some places of the country, avoiding hard water spots is all but impossible and I'm sure there are consumers who'd love something like this.
In a way this thing sounds like a handheld version of the gas station "laser wash". You know, the ones that use high pressure water and lots of soap but no brushes. Considering most of those washes run about $6.00 or more every time you use them, maybe the $37.00 for Mr. Clean isn't so bad. I'm sure the huge marketing blitz will sell a lot of these things. The real question is its staying power in the marketplace.
miceweb - You said "This new car came without "environmental pollution" - the dealer I bought it from stores most of their cars indoors (they are one of those "office building/parking structure" car dealer setups)."
Being that it is a new car it should be fairly clean, but it is also the best way to prep your car to make sure she is always shiny. True that the dealer you bought from stores their car inside, but what if it was an exchange from another dealer which kept the cars outside. Also environmental pollutants are not only associated with the car being outside the dealership. I would suggest that you still clay the car once a year to make your polishing/waxing easier, and have a better result. Bret introduced me to claying and haven't turned back since.
Here is a clip from another company on why you should clay: Rail dust - Tiny, sharp bare metal shavings that can adhere and imbed into the paint finish and cause serious damage when left untreated. Over 70% of new vehicles are transported from the factory using the rail system. In many cases, new cars are stored near a railroad and becomes infected with rail dust.
Brake Dust - Similar to rail dust, brake dust is also in the form of tiny, sharp metal shavings. In recent years, asbestos brake pads were replaced with metallic brake pads, which are actually brake pads made from tiny metal or metallic shavings. Anytime a vehicle is braking; brake dust is disbursed into the air and onto the paint finish. Since the brake dust is now actually tiny particles of bare metal, this form of brake dust can seriously damage the paint finish when left untreated.
Industrial Fallout - A general term used for pollution and can be found in many forms. Eventually, pollution settles onto the paint finish of all vehicles and can cause serious damage when left untreated.
Tree Sap, Road Tar, Bug Residue, Paint Overspray, and Acid Rain Deposits -- These contaminants adhere to or imbed into the paint finish. Left untreated, they will cause permanent damage to your car's paint work by staining and weakening the protective properties.
Lapvn has a very good point about claying your new car. When I bought my New van, I thought the paint felt smooth myself. I later clayed the van and could feel a big difference.
I never used a clay bar until last year and found out for myself how smooth the cars finish could become.
I plan on using the clay bar every two years for me. My mini van isn't so mini when it comes to washing/drying/claying/waxing. That's a lot of trips up and down a step ladder.
I like to keep it simple when it comes to car care, that's why I like Speed Bead wax.
I just ordered this product on line and will let everyone know how it works. I couldn't find any posts about anyone using the product....appealed to me just to keep from having to use a bucket especially with colder weather. I hope the no hand drying method is true. We have hard water so I should really put it to the test.
I picked up some tree droppings or fireplace crud on a 2003 Focus ZX3. I had used Zymol before on just the hood and roof and top bumper.
I should have clayed...I am saving the clay for my other car...it is hard to find clay kits anywhere here, the clay kit I got was from an LA Walmart...but the TW 2001 did a good job on most of the specks. On a couple of stubborn specks, I let a glob of TW 2001 soak and loosen the speck. Not as good as claying, but the petroleum solvents in the TW 2001 work better than the "almond shells" in the Zymol.
Surface is now in better shape and hopefully will make it easier to take off environmental pollutions next time.
Had some swirl marks. Not sure if I failed to let the car dry completely, or if TW 2001 needs "buffing" after wiping off.
All in all, I prefer the NuFinish, but my strategy on the ZX3 will probably be clay and TW2001 in a month, then see how long the shine lasts vs. the NuFinish. Also how easily future specks and stains come off.
Given all the rubbing it took to do a semi-decent job on the ZX3, I don't think the "spray" products (for touch up) will help much with interim stains and specks. What do you think?
I am beginning to think it's a tough world out there for autofinishes. You can get the water to bead up, but it's hard to fight off tree sap, fireplace condensate (smoke + fog = stains on the top of my car). Regular wax will protect, but not clean.
and I live in Berkeley (Bezerkely) California, where all the tree huggers burn the trees during the cool evenings.
Unless there is a crematorium somewhere nearby, I can't for the life of me figure out where all this crud comes from. When I lived in San Francisco, no such problems.
I no longer park under any trees whatsoever, since they drizzle sap like crazy, year round.
Does anyone know which quick detailer sprays - if any - do not contain any wax? I'm using a polymer sealant on my car (Diamond Plus Paint Sealant) and do not want to add wax on top as I believe it will keep subsequent coats of the sealant from adhering properly. I checked the ones available from the local auto parts store - Meguiars and Eagle 1 - and they don't say what the ingredients are (probably just smelly water, eh?).
By the way, I got this sealant from a professional detailing chemical distributor - it's only available by the gallon - and it seems to be every bit as good, and WAY cheaper, than the designer sealant I had been using (subject of another forum here).
Here is what good ol' Bud A. has to say about his fine product:
Unquestioningly the most carefully formulated and finest paint sealant on the market. DIAMOND PLUS contains over 26 different ingredients, including wax and amino-functional silicones that make it one of the most durable paint protection products on the market, while leaving a long-lasting high shine. It is easy to apply and remove with an orbital waxer, or by hand.
Looks like it has wax in it so I'm sure most any good detail spray will work fine. Most detail sprays have water, alcohol, and some sort of silicone emulsion as their ingredients. A few also have a little carnauba in it but the label usually says so.
Thanks for the prompt answer. I had forgotten that part about all the ingredients including wax. By the way, Mr. A said he doesn't put much stock in quick detailing products, and why not just put on another coat of Diamond Plus, but they have their uses. For example, when away from home and attacked by birds and the like.
One of my neighbors has a silver Mercedes SLK. Car always looks great even after days of bad weather. I often wondered what his secret was and I finely found out the other day. After a wash he started shining it with Lemon Pledge and a micro-fiber towel. The paint is ultra smooth deep and lustrious. I asked him if he ever waxed it and he said never. Just hit with Pledge after each wash.
I doubt Pledge has any real protective qualities but it sure can shine a car up nicely.
Its filled with oils and solvents. There's almost zero protective qualities in Pledge but if the only criteria is looks, it works as well as most other products.
Heck, I can make your car look great using transmission fluid or kerosene if that's all that matters. Just LMK and I'll come by with a bottle of Dexron III and hook ya right up. If ya want Mobil One synth ATF I will have to charge you a little more.
What combo are you presently using on your own car?
In the last year I've tried several different combos, both synthetic (Klasse and Poorboy's) and carnubas (Blitz, #26, P21s/S100). Still experimenting, but I've decided on S100 for my topper.
I just received Vanilla Moose today. Going to try 2 x VM + S100.
I bought a new truck recently, 2004 GMC Sierra. On it now is a product called Paint Perfection Glaze from Hi Temp Products, topped with S100 on 1/2 the truck and Hi Temp's wax called Bahama Mama on the other half.
I played with Poorboy's EX on part of the truck and an experimental product on another part, but didn't like either.
We'll see how long the S100 & Bahama Mama hold up. If not, I'll go back to Z.
...and I need to know the best way to shine up two cars.
Car #1 -- 1996 Honda Civic. I want to prepare this car to sell. Should I go through one of those (tedious) 3-step processes such as Meguiars or Mothers? It has spent about half of its life without any shelter. I clayed/polished/waxed it two years ago. Since then, I've done little besides monthly washing.
Car #2 -- 2004 Audi A4. This car seems to have some sort of wax on it already, because the water beads when I wash it. I'm confused about the smartest way to handle the finish on a brand-new car. Is it okay to just use one of the "cleaner waxes" Meguiars or Mothers has? Or, is the 3-step process necessary or beneficial for a brand new car? I'm worried about putting swirl marks on a 2-month-old car with polish.
I do not have garage priveleges for the Audi (I knew this before I bought it, and bought it anyway). I plan to get a cover for it, but in the meantime, I'd like to know the best way to protect it from bird and tree gunk.
I'm willing to spend some time to keep the car looking sharp, but I'd rather not let this become an obsession. I'm trying to balance efficiency with effectiveness.
I looked into Z, but it seems to be more time consuming (with a much fussier process) than what I'd like. That's why I came to the non-Z discussion board.
The posters on both boards tend to be fanatics!! Few of them can stand the thought of someone doing a detail without first Dawning and claying a new car!!
But claying IS optional. You should do one Dawn wash before applying sealant the first time, but you may not need to do so with wax.
I'll put a post just for you on the Z board. It does not have to be as "fussy" as those fanatics over there tend to make it.
Re: the Honda - I'd think the smart thing to do here is put a reasonable amount of effort into getting it looking reasonably good. It sounds like you already have some supplies on hand so I suggest using them to detail the car. A potential buyer is not going to expect an 8 yr old car to look like new but they do expect it to look and smell like its been cared for. The interior should be as clean as the exterior.
If you'd like, post a list of all the car care products you have and we can suggest a detailing plan using them. Or you can do the same thing you did a couple years ago, which I'm sure will be fine.
Re: the Audi - Its always a pleasure to detail a new car. Its like painting on a new canvas. Its already perfect so all you have to do is maintain it. Again, you can use some of the same products you have now to care for it. Or you can look at buying some new stuff. If you want one product that will lightly polish the paint and provide decent protection, there are some pretty good sealants on the market that will do the trick. For "store bought" products, look for Liquid Glass, Meguiar's #20 polymer sealant, Mothers Reflections, and Meguiar's Medallion.
If you are willing to order "boutique" products online, there's an entire world of stuff to choose from. Without overwhelming you, have a look here: http://www.properautocare.com
atoews -- I read your advice on the product that dare not speak its name here, and will keep what you said in mind. Thanks.
bretfraz -- I appreciate your detailed response. I pretty much used up all my supplies when I clayed, etc. the Honda a couple of years back, so I'm starting from zero. The interior has held up well, so all it will need is dusting/vaccuming. I've used Febreeze in it a few times, and I'm not all that impressed with it. What are some other good products for improving the smell of car interiors?
Re: the Audi -- Again, I don't really have anything on hand for that, so I could go for any of the products you listed. I was thinking about going ahead and doing the 3-step thing for the Honda (cleaner, polish, wax), and then just use the same wax for the Audi without the cleaner and polish steps.
I've spotted Meguiars #20 and #26 on the shelf at Pep Boys. Would something like that be good to use on the Audi by itself, with no other products or preparation? Which one (20 or 26) be better for a new car? And would I need to "Dawn" the car before using those products?
I don't want to turn reviving the Honda and protecting the Audi into an obsession, but I'm very concerned about doing it "wrong" (especially if it results in swirls in the Audi). I've read some of properautocare.com, and I'm very impressed with what it has to say (esp. on the differences between German and USA auto finishes).
Comments
That sounds reasonable but I'm wondering how often you have to buy the soap, replace the filter, and things like that. Could turn out to be expensive like you said.
On a newer car #81 would be a better choice. Plus you can use it by hand, orbital, or D/A.
But now I live in a neighborhood that seems to have a higher amount of "environmental pollution" than my former neighborhood - my cars get covered with black grit in 4-5 days, and after they come out of the car wash, still feel "gritty" on the top. There are some little specks that are seem to be an alien cross between tree sap, road tar, and maybe refinery discharge (although publicized refinery discharges are, thankfuly, rare) or fireplace gunk (condensed out onto the surface during the night) (regrettably, I live in a tree hugging neighborhood that prefers wood logs to natural gas).
Finally, I drive on country roads more now (to the mountains on the weekends) or on the interstate through farm country, and bugs splats are a problem. I can get most of them off with the windshield cleaners at the gas stations, but specks tend to remain, even after a follow up car wash.
So I have three main concerns: getting the surface clean, which waxing alone (with Zymol the past couple of months) doesn't seem to do; setting down a surface that will be more "gunk repellent" so I don't have to constantly have the cars clayed (hopefull if I wax every two months I can keep the speck build up down); and setting up a "bug repellent" surface on the front end and rear view mirrors, to make bug clean up easier and more thorough.
I know things have gotten tough for my cars' finishes when I can't scrape specks of "environmental pollution" off my Rain-X'd windshield.
Anyway, I tried Bug and Tar from Turtle Wax to remove the specks of dirt on one car, but that didn't work; Zymol wax/cleaner (the mass market version) also didn't work. (Zymol wouldn't even take off low-grade debris on a brand new car that I just bought in LA, which picked up its lesser amounts of gunk from the less hostile, but still polluted, LA docks (new car prep) and dealer lot (of course the dealer just "waxed over" this crud before delivery).
Since Zymol wasn't doing the trick, either to make the surface slicker to let future pollution "release," or to clean the surface in the first place, I decided to try NuFinish, which is recommended in some posts here. I picked some up at WalMart for less than half the price of Zymol, and stuck it in the trunk of my car.
On an unexpected trip back to LA with the new car, I saw a car wash with a $49.95 "wash/clay/was" special and got them to use the NuFinish I was carrying around.
I was quite impressed with the NuFinish results vs. the Zymol I had put on a week before. The car finish felt slippery, smooth, and of course looked pretty good. Of course the second time the car got waxed, it got clayed first, but still most of the car surface had been ok in the first placd, I thought. The earlier Zymol treatment just didn't leave as much "slickness" on the surface as the NuFinish. After my drive back north, the bugs on the front end came off SO much more easily than they had come off the Zymol surface. The car hasn't been outside long enough to pick up any new enviro dirt.
Do you think NuFinish is better than mass market Zymol? It is a heck of a lot cheaper. Also, the petroleum distillates in NuFinish seem to take off some deposits better than the gentler "natural" ingredients in Zymol.
Anyway, I have a full bottle of Zymol and a 1/4 filled bottle left. Should I continue to use the Zymol on my other cars until it is gone? Or just switch to NuFinish. I can probably give the Zymol to someone at work if it comes down to that.
No wax is going to provide protection from environmental pollutants as well as a sealant. I use Klasse sealant glaze, but there are plenty choices. You can buy Meg's 20 sealant at your local parts store.
You may want to apply a carnuba wax as a topper. Strickly aesthics.
The PDs in NuFinish may help remove debris in your paint, e.g. bugs, but eventually it may also remove your clean coat. It's very abrassive.
The sealant in NuFInish is pretty good, BUT it is LOADED with abrasives as it is a DREADED 'one step' product.
You certainly may NEED an occaisonal shot of 'petro distallates' to get tarry/waxing GOO off the vehicle, but you should NOT make it part of a regaulr routine -- it will eventually dull your finish and may lead to damage.
Ditto on the ABRASIVES in NuFinish -- once in a GREAT WHILE you may want to/need to remove surface oxidation and 'cut' a new surface, but doing this on regualr basis is practically abuse.
FIRST, I would try to find a better (read less exposed) parking situation --ideally a fully enclosed garage, but also a carport, or even a parking pad that is farther away/up-wind from your current "drop zone".
Second, clean the vehicle as well as possible -- use a good quality dish deteregent (like dawn), follow this with a thorought claying. The surface out to be very very smooth.
If the surface is not smooth enough, you may want to get a polish. Use extereme caution, lighter is better!
Third, get a quality sealant/polymer. The Klasse is good, as it the Mequiers, and there are others.
If you want you can put some carnuba WAX over this, but odds are that it is not gonna do much...
GOOD LUCK!
Over a year ago I bought Speed Bead from Stoners products, www.moreshine.com. This has been the very best product that I have ever used. It is very easy and quick, just spray on, spread with cloth over paint and wipe off when dry.
Speed Bead has a very mild clean (no abrasives). They also sell Bead Max Premium Auto Wax which does not have any cleaners in it.
You can check their web site to see where it is available or buy direct on line. You can order 1 can or as many as you want. I order a mixed case of Speed Bead and Bead Max last Tuesday 10/14 and it arrived at my house the NEXT day!
You should be able to wax you car about 5-6 times with 1 can. After my family, friends and neighbors used my Speed Bead, they wanted their own, that's the reason I ordered a case so we all have our own.
What ever you buy, clay your car first. Good Luck
On the website you noted, they sell a kit containing Speed Bead and Super Bead...do you know what the difference is? I have to assume Super Bead is better, but harder to use, Stoner doesn't say much about it.
I am assuming the Stoner products are polymer based and not carnauba based.
The only negatives I have heard about NuFinish are that it is a little harsh (the cleaning side of the formula) for regular use (if you keep the surface clean via clay, I assume).
Right now I am still waiting to see how my NuFinished Scion xA holds up with the local "environmental pollution." I am going to rewax the xA four weeks after the first wax, and see how the surface feels - after the wash and before the re-waxing, and after the re-waxing. I won't "Dawn" the car since NuFinish recommends, for ideal shine and protection, a second waxing a month later anyway. Maybe this has something to do with "curing" the first coat.
Question: Do I need to "Dawn" the other cars I have to remove the Meguiars the local "quick wax" places put on (or the Zymol I put on myself on one of the cars) or is the "cleaner" part of the NuFinish formula enough to remove the old wax? (Also, a recent post said carnauba over polymer is ok, but what about putting polymer over carnauba?)
To put things in perspective, I am NOT looking for best shine, most water beading - just for a way to minimize environmental pollution build up. The car wash "quick waxes" (applied by hand in 30 minutes, not the spray on junk) were what I was relying on in the past, they "beaded" fine and looked fine after a car wash, but the environmental specks were adhering and not coming off, to the point were my car surface was rough and ugly.
Some folks apply a carnauba wax over a polymer sealant to enhance looks. You can't do it the other way as the oils in the wax interfere with the sealant's ability to bond to the paint surface, which gives it it's durability over wax.
Is the cleaner in NuFinish sufficient to take off the old Zymol/Meguiars, or should I Dawn it first?
I have not used Zymol, so I can't comment on it's results. What I can say is that I don't want to spend hours every other month waxing a car. I have never had so many people comment on the shine of my vehicles since using Speed Bead/Bead Max. I can put this on my car in less than 20 minutes, let it dry and wipe off.
I think that you should use Speed Bead since you seem to have things in your air. Speed Bead is about as easy as it gets.
The web site tells the difference between their products.
One more thing that I like about using Speed Bead/Bead Max is that there isn't any powdery residue left over when wiping it off. I can touch my paint finish (which I do because if feels soooo smooth) and not leave any finger prints on the car.
Check out their web site again, and go to retailers and see if it is sold locally. I live in N.E.Ohio (bad winters here) and it is not sold locally, ordered on line, very easy and quick delivery.
I Dawn'd the VW, which had some stain spots, apparently from the local fireplaces. It's not sap, doesn't have any "build up" just a stain.
A lot of the stains rubbed out while washing. NuFinish took the rest out.
After waxing, I wished I had tried the Clay Magic, which I was saving for another car. The washing/waxing got rid of all visible black specs (generic pollution) but the car finish was NOT smooth after the waxing. Clearly there are tons of "micro specks". I finally appreciate what the car detailers have been saying about environmental pollution. Yes, the car is shiny. No, the finish isn't smooth. I just waxed over the pollutants.
Well, I hope Clay Magic is as effective as people say. It costs at least $100 for a clay job where I live, and more if your car finish is "severely polluted."
I did notice one positive: on the hood and roof and top of bumpers (essentially, all top surfaces) there was a lot of "pollution" and I had to rub the wax in fairly hard. On the door panels, the wax went on smooth as silk with no hard rubbing.
So I am hoping that waxing after a clay job will be easy.
BTW, do I have to wash the car after the clay? The instructions say to wipe off the spray lubricant. I don't know if that will interfere with the NuFinish/Zymol.
Thanks
Instead, at the end of the was job, I realized the car had invisible "micro specks" just the stuff the clay would have handled, if I hadn't been too cheap to use it.
The last part of my post, was hoping that claying will make wax application much easier - so that next time, for the whole job, it's not like waxing twice (all that rubbing) and more like waxing 1 1/2 times, in terms of "elbow grease."
I tried the Stoner's Trim Shine on another car and it worked much better and seems to be holding up.
In general, is a glaze/sealant step NOT recommended with these products (ie - Mequires #7)? Will it interfer with the poly bonding?
What about pre wax cleaner/polish? Liquid Glass recommends their product for their sealant, but nobody stocks it. Could a paint cleaner like Mother's step 1, or Mequires Deep Crystal Paint cleaner or Medallion paint cleaner be used before Liquid Glass? - or do they contain polishes that would interfere with the LG?
Thank you. (PS - I know about Dawn wash and claying as first steps).
Its not necessary to use a proprietary pre-cleaner or polish. You can and should use whatever products you need in order to eliminate paint flaws and restore the finish to your liking.
There is enough chemical cleaner in LG to remove any polish residue but if you want to be on the safe side you can always wash the car after polishing and before sealing.
The NuFinish went on smooth as silk - no rubbing required (nothing to clean off).
Left a nice finish that should last a while.
Two comments:
The paint on the Chevy doesn't have the rich glow of my former VW Golf - even a three year old finish on the Golf, which needed clay job.
I picked up some swirl marks on the hood, even though the car was washed, and I applied the NuFinish with a damp application cloth (not terry cloth, a "polish cloth" from Walmart - looks a little like diaper cloth). I did apply in a circular motion, mostly (compared to back and forth as required for Zymol).
The hood was not hot, NuFinish applied in the shade.
BTW, how do you guys like Turtle 200? I see it stocked in Walmart next to the NuFinish all the time.
I haven't been able to locate Speed Bead by Stoner at Autozone or Kragens or Walmart, though I swear I thought I saw it at one of those places a month or so ago (before I heard good things about it here).
My white Focus, Zymol-ed last month, has "tea stains" on the top surfaces again. I think from local fireplaces. Nothing you can feel, literally a stain. When I prepped the Golf to trade in last week, similar stains on the Golf came out via Dawn and a terry cloth. Since I don't want to take the Focus back down to wax free condition again, I may try the Zymol and see if it takes out the "tea stains". I think I just have to re-do the top surfaces - hood, roof, bumper tops, fender tops. I'll keep you posted.
http://biz.yahoo.com/prnews/031104/nytu036_1.html
& wondered what the experts here know/think. Thanks.
I have found out through the years that the heat from the engine (doesn't have to be much) will cause the wax/polish to dry faster that the rest of the car. The hood will sometimes have marks on the hood when you wipe it off.
I think that the heat coming from the engine drys the polish too fast before the polish/wax has time to do it's job.
I always make sure that the engine is almost cold if I can and then I don't have that problem.
Obviously P&G has done extensive marketing research and realizes there are huge profits to be gained from the car care aftermarket. The amount of advertising, especially towards NASCAR fans, probably says more about the product than its results.
This might be a good tool for those who live in areas of both hot weather and hard water. In some places of the country, avoiding hard water spots is all but impossible and I'm sure there are consumers who'd love something like this.
In a way this thing sounds like a handheld version of the gas station "laser wash". You know, the ones that use high pressure water and lots of soap but no brushes. Considering most of those washes run about $6.00 or more every time you use them, maybe the $37.00 for Mr. Clean isn't so bad. I'm sure the huge marketing blitz will sell a lot of these things. The real question is its staying power in the marketplace.
"This new car came without "environmental pollution" - the dealer I bought it from stores most of their cars indoors (they are one of those "office building/parking structure" car dealer setups)."
Being that it is a new car it should be fairly clean, but it is also the best way to prep your car to make sure she is always shiny. True that the dealer you bought from stores their car inside, but what if it was an exchange from another dealer which kept the cars outside. Also environmental pollutants are not only associated with the car being outside the dealership. I would suggest that you still clay the car once a year to make your polishing/waxing easier, and have a better result. Bret introduced me to claying and haven't turned back since.
Here is a clip from another company on why you should clay:
Rail dust - Tiny, sharp bare metal shavings that can adhere and imbed into the paint finish and cause serious damage when left untreated. Over 70% of new vehicles are transported from the factory using the rail system. In many cases, new cars are stored near a railroad and becomes infected with rail dust.
Brake Dust - Similar to rail dust, brake dust is also in the form of tiny, sharp metal shavings. In recent years, asbestos brake pads were replaced with metallic brake pads, which are actually brake pads made from tiny metal or metallic shavings. Anytime a vehicle is braking; brake dust is disbursed into the air and onto the paint finish. Since the brake dust is now actually tiny particles of bare metal, this form of brake dust can seriously damage the paint finish when left untreated.
Industrial Fallout - A general term used for pollution and can be found in many forms. Eventually, pollution settles onto the paint finish of all vehicles and can cause serious damage when left untreated.
Tree Sap, Road Tar, Bug Residue, Paint Overspray, and Acid Rain Deposits -- These contaminants adhere to or imbed into the paint finish. Left untreated, they will cause permanent damage to your car's paint work by staining and weakening the protective properties.
I never used a clay bar until last year and found out for myself how smooth the cars finish could become.
I plan on using the clay bar every two years for me. My mini van isn't so mini when it comes to washing/drying/claying/waxing. That's a lot of trips up and down a step ladder.
I like to keep it simple when it comes to car care, that's why I like Speed Bead wax.
I should have clayed...I am saving the clay for my other car...it is hard to find clay kits anywhere here, the clay kit I got was from an LA Walmart...but the TW 2001 did a good job on most of the specks. On a couple of stubborn specks, I let a glob of TW 2001 soak and loosen the speck. Not as good as claying, but the petroleum solvents in the TW 2001 work better than the "almond shells" in the Zymol.
Surface is now in better shape and hopefully will make it easier to take off environmental pollutions next time.
Had some swirl marks. Not sure if I failed to let the car dry completely, or if TW 2001 needs "buffing" after wiping off.
All in all, I prefer the NuFinish, but my strategy on the ZX3 will probably be clay and TW2001 in a month, then see how long the shine lasts vs. the NuFinish. Also how easily future specks and stains come off.
Given all the rubbing it took to do a semi-decent job on the ZX3, I don't think the "spray" products (for touch up) will help much with interim stains and specks. What do you think?
I am beginning to think it's a tough world out there for autofinishes. You can get the water to bead up, but it's hard to fight off tree sap, fireplace condensate (smoke + fog = stains on the top of my car). Regular wax will protect, but not clean.
What part of CA do you live in? It sounds like it might be up in the mountains.
How often do you wash your cars?
Unless there is a crematorium somewhere nearby, I can't for the life of me figure out where all this crud comes from. When I lived in San Francisco, no such problems.
I no longer park under any trees whatsoever, since they drizzle sap like crazy, year round.
By the way, I got this sealant from a professional detailing chemical distributor - it's only available by the gallon - and it seems to be every bit as good, and WAY cheaper, than the designer sealant I had been using (subject of another forum here).
Thanks in advance!
Unquestioningly the most carefully formulated and finest paint sealant on the market. DIAMOND PLUS contains over 26 different ingredients, including wax and amino-functional silicones that make it one of the most durable paint protection products on the market, while leaving a long-lasting high shine. It is easy to apply and remove with an orbital waxer, or by hand.
Looks like it has wax in it so I'm sure most any good detail spray will work fine. Most detail sprays have water, alcohol, and some sort of silicone emulsion as their ingredients. A few also have a little carnauba in it but the label usually says so.
I doubt Pledge has any real protective qualities but it sure can shine a car up nicely.
Heck, I can make your car look great using transmission fluid or kerosene if that's all that matters. Just LMK and I'll come by with a bottle of Dexron III and hook ya right up. If ya want Mobil One synth ATF I will have to charge you a little more.
In the last year I've tried several different combos, both synthetic (Klasse and Poorboy's) and carnubas (Blitz, #26, P21s/S100). Still experimenting, but I've decided on S100 for my topper.
I just received Vanilla Moose today. Going to try 2 x VM + S100.
I played with Poorboy's EX on part of the truck and an experimental product on another part, but didn't like either.
We'll see how long the S100 & Bahama Mama hold up. If not, I'll go back to Z.
Let us know how those products perform.
Not too much out there that topping with S100 doesn't improve.
Car #1 -- 1996 Honda Civic. I want to prepare this car to sell. Should I go through one of those (tedious) 3-step processes such as Meguiars or Mothers? It has spent about half of its life without any shelter. I clayed/polished/waxed it two years ago. Since then, I've done little besides monthly washing.
Car #2 -- 2004 Audi A4. This car seems to have some sort of wax on it already, because the water beads when I wash it. I'm confused about the smartest way to handle the finish on a brand-new car. Is it okay to just use one of the "cleaner waxes" Meguiars or Mothers has? Or, is the 3-step process necessary or beneficial for a brand new car? I'm worried about putting swirl marks on a 2-month-old car with polish.
I do not have garage priveleges for the Audi (I knew this before I bought it, and bought it anyway). I plan to get a cover for it, but in the meantime, I'd like to know the best way to protect it from bird and tree gunk.
I'm willing to spend some time to keep the car looking sharp, but I'd rather not let this become an obsession. I'm trying to balance efficiency with effectiveness.
But claying IS optional.
You should do one Dawn wash before applying sealant the first time, but you may not need to do so with wax.
I'll put a post just for you on the Z board. It does not have to be as "fussy" as those fanatics over there tend to make it.
If you'd like, post a list of all the car care products you have and we can suggest a detailing plan using them. Or you can do the same thing you did a couple years ago, which I'm sure will be fine.
Re: the Audi - Its always a pleasure to detail a new car. Its like painting on a new canvas. Its already perfect so all you have to do is maintain it. Again, you can use some of the same products you have now to care for it. Or you can look at buying some new stuff. If you want one product that will lightly polish the paint and provide decent protection, there are some pretty good sealants on the market that will do the trick. For "store bought" products, look for Liquid Glass, Meguiar's #20 polymer sealant, Mothers Reflections, and Meguiar's Medallion.
If you are willing to order "boutique" products online, there's an entire world of stuff to choose from. Without overwhelming you, have a look here: http://www.properautocare.com
And here's a kit that would be excellent for maintaining a new car: http://www.properautocare.com/baresfornewc.html
bretfraz -- I appreciate your detailed response. I pretty much used up all my supplies when I clayed, etc. the Honda a couple of years back, so I'm starting from zero. The interior has held up well, so all it will need is dusting/vaccuming. I've used Febreeze in it a few times, and I'm not all that impressed with it. What are some other good products for improving the smell of car interiors?
Re: the Audi -- Again, I don't really have anything on hand for that, so I could go for any of the products you listed. I was thinking about going ahead and doing the 3-step thing for the Honda (cleaner, polish, wax), and then just use the same wax for the Audi without the cleaner and polish steps.
I've spotted Meguiars #20 and #26 on the shelf at Pep Boys. Would something like that be good to use on the Audi by itself, with no other products or preparation? Which one (20 or 26) be better for a new car? And would I need to "Dawn" the car before using those products?
I don't want to turn reviving the Honda and protecting the Audi into an obsession, but I'm very concerned about doing it "wrong" (especially if it results in swirls in the Audi). I've read some of properautocare.com, and I'm very impressed with what it has to say (esp. on the differences between German and USA auto finishes).