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Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

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Comments

  • tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    S100 leaves no white residue on trim. If you clay and polish your car properly all you need to do is spend about 30 minutes once a month to apply a fresh coat of S100 and your car will look its best.
  • rhmassrhmass Member Posts: 263
    I need some suggestion from wax gurus here.
    After reading so many great comments on P21S and S100, I ordered some. I have always been using Mequiar #26 yellow wax in the past and has been satisfied with the results. My order of P21S came in yesterday, I can't wait to try it this weekend. My question is that I just did the whole detailing thing for my car a couple weeks ago including claying, polishing and two coats of Mequiar #26. Can I just wash the car and put on the P21S (2 coats also) or I should polish the car again for the new wax? I really want to see what P21S can do for my black car. Thanks.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Just on store bought waxes. Not going to read them all but my two bits are: I use Nu-Finish liquid. It may not leave the shiniest finish, but it seems to last almost forever. I used to use it twice a year, lately have cut down to once a year as I have gotten lazy about waxing, and the Nu-Finish lasts a full year, this through upper Midwest winters, salt and all the crud. I usually use automatic car washes, especially in the winter, but not that often as usually the car is only clean for a few days anyways and then another blast of salt messes it up. Dont' use any clay bar, wax strippers just wash and wax.
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    Sure, you can apply P21S right on top of whatever you have on the car now. But a more accurate comparison (if that's your goal) would mean you'd have to strip off the #26 and apply the P21S in its place. It's up to you whether you want to do this. Maybe do a side by side comparo to see which one you prefer???
  • rhmassrhmass Member Posts: 263
    I think may be this time I just wash the car and put on a coat of P21S to check out how it looks. Thanks for your suggestions.
    I have always enjoyed reading your helpful posts on this board and have learned a lot on car detailing from you.
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Member Posts: 336
    Recently purchased 2001 MB 320 Black w/ only 14000 miles. Previous owner had taken it thru brush car washes so it was loaded with tiny scratches.
    1...used Macguires Scratch X.
    2... MB dealer had car rubbed out by hand. All day job.
    3...I applied 2 coates of NXT.

    WOW! I have had many black cars but nothing compares to this wax job. So slick & deep that when washing the soap just " sheets" off.
  • tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    From what I have heard the NXT is extremely easy to use, looks great, very slick but is not very durable....especially for a synthetic.
  • gregtranggregtrang Member Posts: 11
    Can anyone tell me which is the best car wax to buy? If there is one, is there any independent lab testing such as Consumer reports that re-inforces which is best. I currently use Nu-finish because several years ago Consumer Reports rated it best. That was several years ago so some other waxes could be better. Also, is it possible to wax your car too often? I have always heard that each time you wax your car you are removing a thin layer of paint.
  • tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    What wax is the best is subjective. It depends on what you want out of a wax. Some waxes both clean and wax but most of the "better" waxes require a cleaning process prior to use for best results, some are much easier to apply and buff off, some are much more expensive than others, many waxes can only be purchased online or by phone, some are more durable than others, some stain trim and some don't, some attract more dust and pollen than others, and some leave a deeper shine than others. However, no one wax has the best attributes of all of these qualities. Which are most important to you?

    Properly waxing your car does not remove any paint. Polishing your car, not waxing, can remove varying amounts of paint depending on how abrasive the type polish you are using. Many mild polishes can be safely used over and over several times a year with no long term damage.

    These are strictly my opinion (and everyone has their own opinion) but the only opinion that counts is yours.

    Most durable - Collinite
    I like S100 because it is only $14.95 at any Harley Davidson dealer, nothing is any easier to apply or buff off, it does not stain trim, has a wonderful deep, wet looking shine and does not attract dust and pollen as much as some others. I can apply and buff off of my Accord in 30 minutes. If you do not have a local Harley dealer in your area I would try Meguiars #16 although you may have to get a Meguiars vendor to order if for you locally. I have not personally used the #16 but I understand from reliable sources that it is very similar to S100.

    IMHO the most important thing in the whole process is to clay your car to remove contaminants to the paint (even if it is straight off the showroom floor) and to polish if necessary prior to waxing.
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    I have tried most of the waxes on this website and its hard to see the difference (except Turtle Wax 2000 left swirl marks) and that old standby Walmart cheapie, NuFinish, is what I like best. Easy to put on, generally a good shine, and lasts.

    Claying is the "real trick." If you clay first, you'll be surprised how well NuFinish turns out. Clay Magic is availabl from Walmart sometimes.
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    If there was an impossible-to-answer question, that's a contender.

    It all depends on what your priorities and expectations are. The good thing is there are many very good products on the market nowadays so while some are better than others, there aren't too many dogs. The bad thing is so many waxes perform similarly that its hard to find the stand out's without testing and comparing them yourself.

    If you're interested in an unbiased comparison of waxes and sealants, check out The Wax Test at www.gurureports.org . They tested 46 different products so you don't have to.

    Can you wax too much? Perhaps, but most of today's waxes are so mild that you could wax your car many many times without noticing paint degradation. There are some aggressive products out there (like NuFinish, which is too harsh for my tastes) but most have been formulated to minimize paint wear to avoid consumer complaints.
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    This is little off subject; I recently bought that Mr. Clean gizmo for spot-free washing and have discovered the joys of de-ionized water. It makes a lot of sense in my particular case because of the size of vehicle, full size X-cab with cap. I didn't give it much credence before the first use, assuming it probably a gimmick. After? "Whoa! Wait a minute." Then, after the second use and despite some minor faults I was pretty well intrigued by its effectiveness, so have begun investigating de-ionization in general, and that in greater quantities than can be supplied by Mr. Clean. A small storage tank with power washer seems like the ticket. In fact, I expect that's likely what mobile detailers use who service dealerships. I've found one supplier so far, http://www.crspotless.com
    but they want to get you roped into a monthly fee (who doesn't).
    Ideally, buying a large capacity filter with a fee paid for regeneration as needed seems the way to go. Does anyone here have knowledge or experience in this area?

    -David
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    What is your opiniom of this underhood cleaning/detailing method?
    http://www.apexcone.com/JimPowellHomepage/TechProcedures/EngineBa- yCleaning/ArmorAll.html
    How about substituting Griot's Vinyl & Rubber Dressing or Vinylex for Armor All? Thanks!
  • kourykoury Member Posts: 225
    I've posted before on this but just can't seem to get much satisfaction in cleaning my rims. I have textured surfaces on parts of my rims ('03 Lincoln Navi), and I've used PS21 and BlackFire with a brush, but still can't get the black marks off. If I sat there for hours scrubbing, it will eventually start to fade, but my hands are killing me.

    Are there any abrasive rim brushes you folks are using that won't scratch? Any other tips?
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    I'm sorry it's taken me so long to respond. I haven't been checking in here lately.

    The tips in that link are OK. I'd cover up sensitive electronic components and things like air intakes before using the water and degreaser. Also I'd prefer a citrus-based degreaser instead of a solvent-based one.

    I detailed an engine last week and sprayed on a light coat of Armor All as a final dressing. AA is perfect for this task. Just stick with their Original Shine version and it'll be fine. The two products you mentioned would also work great.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    No problem; I tried the AA on the plastic inner fender liners and t worked great. Thanks for confirming that the procedure is safe!
  • 20992099 Member Posts: 63
    I'm sure I'm above the average when it comes to cleaning/waxing cars, but I'm not a fanatic. I read here recently about detailing a car by washing with Dawn, claying, SEC and S100. Thought I'd try it and want to report that it worked great!! I have a 2002 Avalon in silver and it didn't look this good when I picked it up from the dealer! I had never clayed a car before and can't believe how easy it was. Bought the SEC and S100 from the local Harley dealer and really liked it too. You don't have to use a lot and it does come off easy IF you don't wait too long. Also used the Stoner Invisible Glass and liked it a lot. One small question. Should I use the S100 on the alloy wheels or is there something better?
  • tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    Hard not to like S100....it is as good as it gets and NOTHING is any easier to use. Be sure to wipe it off immediately...do not wait for it to haze or dry or it can actually be a PITA to remove.

    Personally I use Klasse AIO on my alloy wheels but that is something that must be ordered online...it is not sold in stores. It is VERY easy to use and allows the brake dust to wash off easily during normal wash routine.
  • altimaaltima Member Posts: 1
    hi, everybody!
    i will appreciate if you share your experience with the stuff advertised here http://www.5starshine.com.

    do they exist at all?
    i never got a response to my several e-mails and couldn't get anybody at that phone number (except autoanswer).

    thanks.
  • tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    I went to www.autopia.com and did a search and there was pretty much a consensus of negative feedback on this product. I read something about a 5 year warranty with a 30 day guarantee and that was about all I needed to know. I think it is often used by car dealerships as part of their sealant scam.
  • geneegenee Member Posts: 170
    I will have to agree that Meguiars NXT TechWaxis ONE amazing product. I have used Meguiars for years and thought I would try this on my new Scion tC. 30 minutes later we are looking at real gloss. I then cleaned my daughter's Bimmer and applied the NXT. Surface scratches nearly disappeared. The stuff is so easy to use I will polish the Bimmer to remove the rest of the swirls and reapply the NXT. I bought it because of the money-back thing but I have nothing on which to base asking for a refund. TRY IT!
  • tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    Super easy to use and looks great but many people have been disappointed with it after a couple of washes and a few weeks. I have read that it loses it's slickness and some gloss fairly quickly. Most people expect a sealant to maintain these qualities for a few months.
  • geneegenee Member Posts: 170
    Keeping everything garaged, I usually don't have to worry much about lost gloss between "waxes" - unless I fight the almighty birds and pitch at some parking meter. I do find it iteresting that the manula for the new Scion tC "suggests" that the cars be "waxed" monthly. I guess they expect anyone buying a $17K car won't be spending the time to put on the Z product that we cannot mention on this thread.
  • geneegenee Member Posts: 170
    I would like to clean my windshield and get rid of the crud where the wipers do NOT swipe. I have tried Dawn and Bon Ami with no great change. Anyone have any suggestions? (I have been told that a clay baring will help but am a little gun-shy there.)
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    I find Rain-X cleans my windows pretty well (and of course works well in the rain; STP's new product isn't even close). Still won't work on the specks of sap, I have to use my fingernails on those, some day I suppose I will have to clay the front and rear windshield. The side windows don't collect as much of this sap. And no, I don't park under trees (cars in my neighborhood under trees are a REAL mess) but the wind carries it....
  • tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    If you are gun-shy about using a clay bar on your windshield then you have obviously not used one on your paint or you would know that it is perfectly harmless to both and would do wonders for either one for very little effort or money. Auto-Magic clay bar is at most $10-13 with lubricant at Auto-Zone or PepBoys and in IMHO is the absolute best car care product for the money you can buy. You can do your windshield in about 1-2 minutes at most.
  • geneegenee Member Posts: 170
    Will using clay take off the film that is left outside of the wiper-swipe area? I would like to have a windshield that looks like glass rather than a raccoon
  • geneegenee Member Posts: 170
    I just spent the better part of an hour with a clay bar trying to get the non-wiped portion of the windscreen back to original. All that happened was I got tired of working it ... Does anyone know how to clean this area so it looks new? The stuff can be no more than road film so it should clean.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,672
    I use an SOS pad on my window. Wet the window. Rub lightly in circular motions. Rinse. Repeat. The film is gone.

    I've heard others recommend barkeepers friend which contains oxalic acid as a good cleaner...
    But I think the material that's used to rub has to have a texture that will grab and rip away the road film that has stuck to the glass.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • dumbgirldumbgirl Member Posts: 6
    I just purchased a 2005 Altima and dealer is "selling" an exterior protection plan called Carbrite. Can anyone give me any advice on this product - does it work, is it necessary, what's the "going rate"? Dealer states the car will never require waxing after this is applied and protects from rust. Should this even be a consideration or am I just another "easy sell"?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,672
    Why waste your money???

    Just wax the car once or twice a year...

    This is just a 'pack' to pack extra cost into your purchase.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    ...you never have to wax your car, just apply this conditioner every six months.
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    They're a large maker of auto reconditioning chemicals. They sell primarily to commercial car washes, car dealers, auto auctions, etc.

    What they're probably applying is some sort of polymer sealant. You can buy a comparable sealant at a parts store for about $20. It applies/removes just like any wax.

    Here's a link to Car Brite's website describing their sealant and their warranty package that's offered to dealers:

    http://www.carbrite.com/servlet/com.ebiz.ecom.search.ResultsPubli- - c?st=SUB&catcd=iepr&loc=Interior%20and%20Exterior%20Prote- - ction
  • dumbgirldumbgirl Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for your info! So do you think this Carbrite is any better than the Zaino product or other sealant?
  • geneegenee Member Posts: 170
    We aren't supposed to use the "Z" word in this strand. NOTHING beats the products the brothers distribute for show car gleam. You just have to be willing to put the effort into using them.
  • tmarttmart Member Posts: 2,399
    What effort?? It's soooo easy!
  • geneegenee Member Posts: 170
    Now, maybe Texans think six or seven coats with ample time between them is "soooo easy" but when I can get the same shine (to these old retired eyes) in 45 minutes with Meguiar's NXT generation TechWax, I am opting for TechWax. That way I can do it every other week and see just how soft the paint is on the new Scion tC.
  • tmarttmart Member Posts: 2,399
    I'm retired too so although I have the time, I usually put a coat or two on every four to six months. I don't do the mega coats, since I can't see a visual difference after two or three coats. See no reason for you to do it every other week as you do. Actually just ONE coat of the "brothers" will also last four to six months.
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    Carbrite and mfrs like them produce products that are easy to use and cost effective. Price per ounce and cost per use are primary concerns, Zaino is exactly the opposite - made for serious enthusiasts, has a very specific use requirements and cost is really not an issue.

    While there may be some chemical similarities, there are far more differences between the two product lines. Doesn't make Carbrite a bad product line but their business focus is not on the individual car owner.

    You can go to a local parts store and buy something like Liquid Glass or Meguiars #20 for about $15-20 and have something very similar to Carbrite's sealant.
  • geneegenee Member Posts: 170
    I usually do at least half the Scion every other week with the TechWax because: 1)I have the time; 2)I enjoy doing it; and 3) it gives me a chance to really inspect my paint for chips, etc. I am about to do my son-in-law's MB down the middle with TechWax and that stuff the brothers in New Jersey produce. His car is NOT garaged and it will give me a chance to see just how long each lasts with no special treatment.
  • pisciottapisciotta Member Posts: 54
    has anyone tried this product and if so did you like it? thanks!
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    Type the words "liquid glass" into the Search This Discussion box and you will find 71 posts mentioning Liquid Glass.
  • sandman46sandman46 Member Posts: 1,798
    Bret, I did what you said and got no results!

    The Sandman :-)
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    /WebX?ed_searchResults@@.ee9960b!keywords=allin%3Amsgtext%20limit%3A.ee9960b%20li- quid%20glass&count=20
  • sandman46sandman46 Member Posts: 1,798
    Yep!

    The Sandman :-)
  • tribblestribbles Member Posts: 56
    OK, I've heard / read all the raves from the "Z" enthusiasts on their board. I just took delivery of an '05 Accord EX that I'd like to pamper a bit more than my previous cars. This is my 4th accord and the two old ones (both '93) still look good (I think). All I have done is give them both a thorough washing/waxing once a year and regular trips to a brushless carwash. I use Armor All's spray and shine or something in between the yearly thorough was treatment.

    I was just at my local Kragen store to buy replacement bulbs and I noticed Meguire's (sp?) clay bar /lubricant/wax kit. Anybody have use that product before. Any other suggestions other than "Z"?

    Thanks in advance.
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    Mothers offers a clay/lube/cleaner wax kit for about $16. Its a nice little kit for the price - Mothers clay bar is excellent as is their Showtime detail spray (I used it yesterday for claying), and the carnauba cleaner wax is a good product for what it is. Overall a good value IMO.
  • tribblestribbles Member Posts: 56
    I went back to the store. It was Mother's not Meguires and I bought the kit. Will try it on one of my old cars first.
  • gearhead10gearhead10 Member Posts: 84
    Use the clay on your new car first while its new and clean--it's very easy to do. Just use enough lube to keep it from sticking and fold it if it gets dirty. And don't drop it or else you'll have to throw it away. Then use it on your old cars--you'll be surprised at how much crud it picks up!
  • mikewinldsmikewinlds Member Posts: 12
    I have a real quick question. I'm not a detailer and don't do all the super-detailing steps like those folks over at Autopia.org, but I was wondering what is wax used for?

    I do wash and wax my car, but I'm not really sure what the wax is supposed to be doing. I do notice a slightly brighter look on my car, but it's not like those mirror-like finishes that detailers do with their polishes and waxes and spending hours and days doing.
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