Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

mike_542 · February 2001

My favorite store bought spray wax is Turtle Wax Express Shine which lasts pretty long for an instant detailer. My favorite spray wax is actually homemade with wash concentrate, Meguiar's Swirl Remover, Z polish and Z gloss enhancer, and water. It works really well!

paco99 · February 2001

Noticed that people say to use Dawn blue to wash car before applying first polish/wax...why ? is it because it has abrasive properties ?.....Dawn dishwashing products also come in other varieties......curious why only "blue" ?

pjyoung · February 2001

Don't know how the blue thing came to be. Dawn has a high alkaline content, regardless of it's color. That will allow it to remove any old wax. I used green dawn with the same results, and if I had to do it again, I think I'll use "mountain fresh" dawn.

pat · February 2001

I recall from reading all of the past iterations of this topic and the others on waxes and polishes that the thinking was blue dawn doesn't have the stuff in it that's supposed to keep your hands "soft" - I believe the thinking was that the hand stuff would not rinse cleanly off the car?

Someone else probably knows the exact answer to this!

Ah, mountain-fresh dawn... That's a nice thought! :-)

Pat
Host
Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards

molloni · February 2001

But I do own a 2000 Monte Carlo SS...beautiful car! The only problem with it is, like everyone told me it would be, black is difficult to keep clean...

Thanks for the advice. I'll remember to use the rubbing alcohol.

paco99 · February 2001

Hmmm.....your comment makes me think it may make sense.....if it has stuff in it to keep hands "soft", then maybe it's some kind of lotion content that makes it creamy and therefore maybe it leaves a residue, lotion like, on the "skin".....which I would have to guess is bad for the car paint......

sddlw · February 2001

Thanks for the info on glazes. I would agree that using abrasive products often would be foolish, and there are some products out there that will do more damage than good even used once, but there are some awsome products too. A really high end paint shop, doing a show-car paint job will use mildly abrasive glazes or polishes between each coat of paint to get the smoothest surface possible, and will really polish the last coat working down to really fine levels of polishing abrasive. It was such a paint shop that turned me on to the Meguiar's glazes and polishes. The Swirl Remover and Show Car Polish are versions of this whole line of products that can be by a non-professional with an orbital buffer with good results. If you use these products once every 3 years or so over the life of your car you'll be able to polish out many of the swirls and imperfections in the paint and keep your car looking really great.

jster · February 2001

I agree with you 100% about abrasive polishes--I have used them many times over the years--my point wasn't to knock abrasive polishes--just giving someone advice that there are several options--depending on someone's situation and what they are comfortable with.

Some people just don't like using abrasives on a paint job--or some may have already had their clear coat seriously compounded once or more, and feel that any more abrasive polishing will be removing too much paint.

And as you say machine polishing can be great--and an orbital is pretty safe--but it is possible, even with an orbital to do some damage on edges and the like--so if someone's never used one before--I don't know if it's a good idea to start practicing on a 3 year old Mercedes. I'm a little conservative, I guess.

protegextwo · February 2001

Your detail "cocktail" spray, sounds like a witch's brew, lol!

-Larry

fish8 · February 2001

Mequiars Quik detailer is safe for all paint surfaces. It can also be used on freshly painted car finishes. I had some body work done on my '99 Mercury Cougar and they advised me NOT to wax the car for 60 days. I contacted Mequiars and asked if the QD was safe for the new finish. They said is was completely safe on repainted surfaces. Instead of waxing my car for the first 60 days, I used QD instead. It worked great!!!

sierrabudd · February 2001

I have not tried it, but I read that Vinegar is great for removing dried on water spots that will not come off the paint during washing, and is great for the windows too.

However, it WILL remove all the wax on your car, so be preared to re-wax.

sierrabudd · February 2001

DON'T use Dawn or Ivory or any other diswashing detergent for normal everyday car washing. The reason is that it will clean your paint VERY WELL and remove the wax that is on your car. "They say" that it is also harsh on your paint, but then again isn't the mud and acid rain and "gunk" and bird stuff also hard on the paint?

DO use Dawn or any other dishwashing detergent when you want to get rid of all the old wax, etc. on your car. If your car is going to get painted, or if you want to put a fresh coat of wax or polymner sealant, make a very strong solution of dishwashing detergent and wash the heck out of your car!

sierrabudd · February 2001

Teflon is one of those things that sounds great (Teflon coat your car, Teflon coat your engine, Teflon coat your Transmission etc!) because the concept (notice I said concept) is GREAT - A dry surface that has the slipperest dry surface permanantly attached to the outside!

However, teflon is NOT going to stick to your paint, or engine or tranny (at least not with a hand applied product or a bottle of engine stuff).

I found an old bottle of Turtle Wax (copyright 1991) that advertised that it was a TEFLON wax, but this was just a fad. Get a bottle of Meguiars #20 Polymer Sealant. I think that is a very good long term treatment for a paint job.

bretfraz · February 2001

Only challenge with #20 is that it's rarely available in retail stores. Also, since it's a sealant your paint condition will have to be perfect. For best results, #20 needs to go on after a possible multi-step cleaning and polishing process.

Although it doesn't fit the parameters of a "Store Bought Wax", it can be ordered online from several places.

tomsr · February 2001

I picked up a kit today.Includes a cleaner in one bottle and another is a sealant.The warranty for four years is useless because of all the loopholes
and at best all you would get is $100 if it did not work.Has anyone tried this stuff?

pjyoung · February 2001

I used it years ago. It did okay, but it was no better or worse than the others. IMHO - if one doesn't wax a car for 4 years, they don't care too much about the finish. The "warranty" appears to be geared toward those who lease a car for 36 months...who's gonna care how it looks after 37 if it's back at the dealer?

jukeboxcarl2 · February 2001

The best polishes...3M Imperial Hand Glaze and Mcguires Show Car Glaze. The best protectants for paint...AT-5 Acrylic Teflon Sealant and Collonite waxes. Collonite has the best durability and the clearest shine of anything I have ever tried. I have used almost everything on the market including products only available at body and paint supply shops. I have also heard that Teflon is a gimmik but a pro told me that the chemical make up of ptfe resins are resistant to other acids etc. Acid rain, Fallout etc. All I know is that getting your paint cleaned,polished,and protected with the products I mentioned will definately please most auto owners and the products are reasonably priced.

duckcaller · February 2001

I switched to using diluted vinegar in water (2 tbsp per gallon) and NO SOAP of any kind years ago. I wash my truck by hand with an old cotton tee shirt dunked in plain water and rinse with the vinegar and water solution - then chamois. I've found that my wax job lasts MUCH longer as a result. I tried every kind of car-wash-in-a-bottle out there and found them ALL to reduce the life of a wax job compared to using just water and a touch of vinegar (primarily to reduce spotting).

I would say if you pour pure, concentrated vinegar on your finish it probably WILL cut the wax. I wouldn't advocate that. But I also wouldn't advocate using any kind of detergent on your wax job at all - it just hurries your next wax job up. But, hey, a lot of folks just LOVE to wax their cars and won't be denied the pleasure. More power to 'em! I prefer to spend my time doing other things. Like I said in a previous post - avoiding any kind of detergent - my wax jobs last all year long and my truck sits outside (not garaged).

All I'm advocating is that folks TRY washing their car without soap of any kind. It's just as fast as using soap, but doesn't cut the wax job. Without the trail of suds, you'll have to pay closer attention to what you've washed and what you haven't, but you'll get pretty good at it with a little bit of practice.

pat · February 2001

... but I kinda thought the soap suds were important to "float" the debris off the surface thus reducing the chance of scratching?

Pat
Host
Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards

joebob6 · February 2001

When most people wash their vehicles they take either a sponge, wash mit or cotton towel soaked with suds, after first rinsing a section, and wipe it clean. Then rinse again. I would think the soap would help lubricate and help the dirt come off and minimize scratching.

I usually spray the most heavily soiled areas with a car wash/water solution in a spray bottle first to loosen up the dirt(the dirt usually breaks up and starts floating off) and follow up same as above using a cotton towel.

I need more proof than one person's testimony what works for him. I also believe smog, acid rain, salt and bird droppings would make it impossible for any wax or polymer job to last a year no matter how many times the vehicle is washed-soap or no soap...especially if it is not garaged. I would be very hesitant at this time to wash without using some type of car wash solution. I do believe you do not need huge suds to clean your car.

duckcaller · February 2001

I asked my friend who's a PhD in chemical engineering (University of Madison, Wis - polymer science)... he says all the soaps will work to disolve your wax job. No question about it. It's not a theory - it's just the way detergents work.

As to soap (detergents) disolving dirt - it's true that it does this - the detergent penetrates into the tiny cracks and releases the bonding and helps to "float" the dirt and grime like you say. BUT - in the process it is ALSO taking your wax with it. And as you know - you can't just count on the chemical "floating" action to clean, you have to use a little elbow grease to get the dirt to free up even when you're using soap.

Plain water WILL preserve your wax better and for MOST routine cleanings you just don't need soap. Try it. Rinse the car and get the area thoroughly wet, then use a soft cloth dunked in water to loosen the dirt gently - then rinse away the dirt you've loosened up manually.

Just because you're using detergents - soap - doesn't mean you're "protecting" the finish from tiny scratches when cleaning. You're getting just as much cloth contact with your finish whether you use soap or not. Think about it - if you soaped up a brillow pad or sand paper, would you feel any more safe than if you used just plain water? Of course not - same goes for your soft cotton rags or towels that you use. Use LOTS of water to keep the scratches at a minimum - and throw your soap away unless you just love waxing your vehicle!

Look, I don't think this would hurt any finish just to TRY it. As for the vinegar - I use that mainly to avoid spotting as I'm drying. I have had terrific success over ten years... I'm not trying to lead a revolt against the makers of car wash soap - but I do think you'd save a bunch of money and time if you do.

armtdm · February 2001

Whatever the spelling is I started using this carnuba wax about 6 months ago and I agree with the previous post, this is great stuff, great shine and durability, easy to apply and remove as well.

jster · February 2001

I'm pretty sure that at one time Jaguar and BMW in their owners manuals both recommended using just plain water to wash your car....

And of course Duckcaller is correct when he notes that any soap will reduce the longevity of a protectant. And also that the number one thing when washing a car is to use LOTS of water.

I do think that using soap does provide at least a little bit more of a "safety cushion" when washing the car--how much of one is certainly open to debate--and the price you pay for that safety cushion is shorter longevity for your wax.

Personally I prefer the safety cushion--and will take the time to apply protectant more often--but for other people whose priorities are different--Duckcaller presents a viable option.

I guess a lot of people would blanch at the thought of not using soap when washing a car. But I also see a lot of people recommend using a "quick detailer" type of product--which is just a spray bottle of mostly water with some alcohol and wax thrown in--to do light cleanings of an entire vehicle. Personally I would prefer washing a car with no soap and a lot of water to using a quick detailer for light cleanings.

jcnew4whlr · February 2001

I just picked up a new Sequoia and can't figure out the 'best' way to care for it. Dealer wanted to put on a Simoniz 5 year warranty Teflon coat. For half the cost Zeibart offers a lifetime warranty, but you go back once a year (at least that makes a little sense to me). I've scanned a few pages here, and find I'm really lost. I don't know what claying is, I've read the Z word in Sequoia posts, but have no knowledge of it. I'm planning on keeping this vehicle for at least 6 years, more if I can still climb up in it by then. What's the best long-term approach?

pjyoung · February 2001

Ah, the OTHER Z word. IMHO, "Lifetime" is now used with cars is 3 years, since a good chunk of cars are leased for...ta da...3 years. If you care about how a car looks, forgo the Ziebart or any "lifetime" protection, find a good wax or polymer, and apply it 2 to 4 times a year. Not much work, really, and you at least KNOW you've got something working for you.

mike_542 · February 2001

What I use to usually wash my car is plain water out of a hose without those high-pressure nozzles. I let the water flood the paint, and all of the fresh dirt, dust, and bird droppings come off. Then, I dip a wet sheepskin wash mitt into water and rub over what ever water pressure cannot remove. I reccomend dipping the mitt frequently into the bucket of water.

Usually, when the car is too dirty to use only water, it is time for waxing. THEN, I use Dawn.

jcnew4whlr · February 2001

Thanks for your answer. I suspected the use of personal elbow grease was going to be the preference. Unfortunately, my desire for waxing has been waning (sorry) the last few years.

Seriously, I see mentions in several forums about using clay before waxing. I can guess it smoothes the finish, but it's all new to me. Can you, or anyone, direct me to someplace I can learn these techniques. I don't think my two year old liquid Maguire's is going to be the right answer for my new Sequoia.

paco99 · February 2001

Imperial Hand Glaze and Collonite ? Anyone else use them ? Didn't see them at Pep Boys....

Awhile ago, someone mentioned "liquid glass"; anyone else using it ?

armtdm · February 2001

this site has the Collonite wax and many others. I use the Collinite, best I have ever used fro shine and good durability and easy to apply the paste.

http://www.autofanatics.com/waxselections.html

bretfraz · February 2001

Most all 3M products can be purchased at any NAPA Auto Parts store.

Collinite is best ordered online.

To learn about paint cleaning products like clay, you can go to Meguiars.com, Eagleone.com or try this: http://www.erazer.com/

sierrabudd · February 2001

Duckcall, I was doing some searches on the internet, and I found a site that said it would remove your wax, but they were talking about straight vinegar. Here is the site:

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/waterspots.html

That sounds like a good idea to add 2 tablespoons of vinegar per gallon.

sierrabudd · February 2001

Well, I got my internet mail order shipment of both #20 Meguiars Polymer Sealant and #26 Hi-tech yellow wax, and here is my preliminary opinion:

I REALLY LIKED # 20. This is going to become my "normal" wax, even though it is a little more expensive (about 15-20 $ per 16 ounces, but you can get large bottles that are a much better value per ounce).

I liked it for the following reasons:
1. I have a brand new 2001 truck (and of course, paint job!) No need to really polish or use buffing cleaners yet.(although I did buy #7 Show Car Glaze from Meguiars)
2. It went on easy and came off easy
3. It is supposed to be the longest protecting of any Meguiars product

I was very impressed when I did my truck, so impressed, that I did it twice.

Now to have fun, I did half of my trunk (this is the third coat now) with #26, that has some canruba wax in it, and the other half with Gold Class, also by Meguiars, but available everywhere (wal-mart, K-Mart, Pep-boys, etc) Just FYI, I liked the smell of Gold Class the best, but #26 just was so much glossier and deeper than Gold Class.

I put a 4th coat on, (all #26) and something neat happened. My hood actually had that "wet look" that everyone is talking about!

The hood had that slick wax feel that new cars in showrooms have. It had a deepness that #20 did not give it. Now from 3 feet away, I could not tell the difference between #20 and #26, and I actually felt that my surface felt smoother with #20.

#26 was also easy to apply and remove, although it had more of a drag than # 20.

SO, my opinion (and we all know what they say about opinions, they are like butt holes, every one has them!) since I have limited time to wax my truck, I want the best protection rather than the best shine, I want the protection to last, and I want it to be easy to put on and take off, and I WAS very happy with the shine after my first application, I will use # 20, and when I am feeling like I want to do my truck two or three times, will do a final coat with # 26.

While I loved the smell of Meguiars Gold Class, I thought it was harder to remove (needed more terry cloth towels), and I just liked # 26 better, of the two.

I did Like The Wax Shop Super Glaze, that was until I used #26. I find that the Super Glaze seems to wear off rather quickly.

BTW, I do not work for Meguiars, I just decided that company made since to me. They dont have a "miracle product", or a "ultra expensive caviar" type product, or a "one size fit's all" product, and they have been around for a long time, and I think they have a good reputation.

The person who made the comment about #20 Polymer Sealant being hard to find, is a valid statement! I found only 2 auto parts store (or any store for that matter) that sold it, and all they had were the old bottles of the stuff on the shelf. I had to mail order it.

duckcaller · February 2001

I checked out the website... wow - must have been ahead of my time. As I posted a lot earlier, I learned this in Germany where the water was very hard and left terrible mineral deposits faster than you could dry.

We had to wash ALOT - the place we lived in was a car owners nightmare... right next to a huge cherry orchard and the building we lived in was home to hundreds of those mud-daubing bird nests (martins?). Literally, in the spring, you had to park a block away to wash your car or there'd be a half dozen bird droppings on it before you finished washing!! Also learned that wax seemed to last a lot longer if I didn't use any soap.

In addition to washing a lot, we all owned car covers that would take most of the abuse between washings... but inevitably you'd get two or three "hits" as you were pulling in and putting the cover on. Ugh - those were the days! We had to wax constantly since the bird drops inevitably burned through the wax job. I found that the more expensive products listing "pure Carnauba" seemed to hold up best against this abuse - believe I used a Maguires wax then.

On my current truck I have the "Toyo-gard" package that came with it... I've not used one of these sealants before, but it comes with the undercarriage spray and the window and door etching (anti-theft). I do save about 25 bucks a year on insurance, so in theory it will eventually "pay for itself." So far (one year) I'm quite pleased with it. Anybody know what I'll be facing in five years or more? Please, I know already that it's (allegedly) a big rip-off, but what's it going to LOOK like down the road.

jukeboxcarl2 · February 2001

It is time to use 3M Imperial Hand Glaze and follow up with Collinite Insulator Wax. One year without adding additional protection is long enough. Sorry I did not post an address to buy these products earlier at #668. 3M products are available at most body and paint supply houses. Collinite as well and also at www.collinite.com I am not affiliated with any wax company...

bretfraz · February 2001

Great post! I'm sure that one will be used as a solid resource for a long time.

I'm suprised you even found #20 in a retail store. The only place I could think of that stocked #20 is a Mirror Glaze store in Louisville, KY. That's why online mail-order is best; you'll get products fresh and fast.

FWIW, one of the many "wax cocktails" I used to make was one step of Super Glaze followed by a step of #26. On a non-clear coat paint job like I had, Super Glaze did an excellent job of polishing the paint, espeically with a buffer. But you're right, it doesn't last long. I don't believe it was designed to last.

duckcaller · February 2001

Thanks for the advice... but tell me more. I really am a neophyte about these sealant things. They gave me a can of cleaner/restorer when I bought the truck... that I've used twice in one year - works a little bit like wax (rub on rub off).

jukeboxcarl2 · February 2001

I didn't Know you were putting any thing else on. You will probably be fine using this maintainance product that you have. If you are satisfied with the shine and if water still beads, you are all set.I have used sealants in the past and they do seem to work good. The problem is you still have to clean road film, tar, etc.and when you do,some of the sealant will be removed as well. I personally would still wax on top of the sealant as long as the paint was clean and smooth to touch.

duckcaller · February 2001

Thanks jukebox - right now the stuff they gave me is working really well ... has that "baby-bottom" smooth, glassy feel and the towel slides right off. But I seem to get a lot of dust, rag threads, etc, that want to leap onto my finish.

Anybody out there come up with a cure for static cling? I know this has to frustrate a lot of people - you just get your ride looking super fine and look it over, only to find stuff drifting through the air being drawn to your car... like the output of the neighbor's lawnmower or dust from the construction site two blocks away?

Any of those dust-mop clingy things do any good?

jukeboxcarl2 · February 2001

I too would like to solve that problem. McGuires makes a product called Medallion. This is supposed to solve this type of thing. Unfortunately this is one of very few products I have'nt tried. The California Dusters work pretty good, alot of show car people use them. They still scare me ...all it takes is a little spec of sand and your in for alot of work. Always wash in shade and use lots of water. I am going to try the 2 tsbs. of distilled vinigar to 1 gal. h2o.

pjyoung · February 2001

Am I gonna have to start another war in this group to get the activity back up?

dhanley · February 2001

Ok, i tried the whole bit, using sandpaper to widen and rough up the chip, filling it in, flattening with 2000 grit, and polishing. The results look pretty good, the paint still looks "hazy" in that area, but more polishing and waxing may take care of it. Still looks better than a chip! One thing: The advice said to glue the rough sandpaper to an eraser. I decided to shortcut, and i was sorry. The paint near one of the chips got scratched up. Much more work to fix THAT. If i have time, i will try to fix a bunch of chips this weekend.

dave

bretfraz · February 2001

Now you know why body shop folks charge so much

The husband of a former co-worker owned a body shop. You wouldn't believe the kind of wheelin' and dealin' that went on with him. Practically his whole house was furnished "free"; benefits of doing body work in lieu of cash payment.

Every body shop owner I've ever met has a boat and several cars. A couple guys I knew owned airplanes. Unbelieveable.

triple_deke1 · February 2001

This is my 1st new truck..Flame Red, Clearcoat Dodge Dakota. Ive always used
Meguiars cleaner/wax with good results but this time I want to start out with the right
stuff. My paint is very smooth and I havent waxed it yet. What do you all suggest in the
Meguiars line?? I was thinking of the Gold Class lineup but figured Id check here first
before I go and buy anything.

Also, once you polish and then wax the vehicle, is it necessary to polish every time
you wax or can you just wash and then wax?

Thanks
TD

wka · February 2001

I'm looking at a few different polishes for my new 2001 Black Pontiac GTP. It looks like Meguiars is well liked, Anybody have experience with Liquid Glass and how it compares to some of the other polishes?

I had liquid glass on my 95 Pontiac it held up very well.

armtdm · February 2001

I have been using Mequires Cleaner wax for the areas needing some cleaning and their Gold Class wax (paste and liquid) . Also love the paste Carnuba wax Collonite, great shine and luster and recently tried the Mequires #26 Professional Yellow Wax. WOW, great stuff, a little more difficult to remove then the Collonite even though it is a pasty liquid. Just got a new car that had been sitting on the lot for months, black, it already has some acid rain stains that I could not remove.

bretfraz · February 2001

I think if y'all would scroll back 100 posts or so you'll find lots of suggestions for new cars. Don't worry - it doesn't take that long to read them.

Having said that, I'll post a few of my faves:

1. Although I don't use it, Meguiars told me that Gold Class is their best product for shine/gloss. I think this is especially good on a dark car but you'll likely have to wax more often.

2. I've used Meguiars Medallion and found it to be great. It's Meguiars' longest lasting product but doesn't shine like Glod Class. It also repels dust better than other products. I found it to work great on black paint.

3. 3M makes great stuff. Their Imperial Hand Glaze is considered to be one of the best products of its kind. It's a fine hand polish to bring out the highest gloss. You'll need to follow it up with a good wax but you'll get fantastic results.

There are lots of excellent websites to check out. Meguiars.com, Eagleone.com, Carcareonline.com, dccarcare.com are just a few.

triple_deke1 · February 2001

I think Im gonna go with the #26 hi-tech yellow. I want to try the new car glaze or the show
car glaze underneath but dont know what the difference is between the two. Does anyone
know??

TD

mike_542 · February 2001

Great choice! Hi-tech yellow wax is a great choice for the money and I have used it before switching to more expensive products. It was the best wax (in my opinion) made by Meguiar's. I loved it, it was simple to use, reliable, and did a great job. However, if you dont mind to spend $7.75 more, you should try One Grand Blitz Carnauba Wax which is the best wax I tried under twenty-dollars. It lasts much longer, shines much better, and is easier to apply than Hi-tech Yellow Wax. If you wan't to try a sealant, try Klasse All-In-One. Klasse lasts the longest but doesn't have the shine of good old carnauba.

By the way, I haven't tried New Car Glaze but Show Car Glaze is phenominal.

jster · February 2001

You probably don't need to use "Show Car Glaze" on a brand new car--it is a mildly abrasive polish that you would use to clean contaminants and mild oxidation; and reduce "swirl marks" from a finish--probably not necessary on a brand-new car.

I'm not familiar with New Car Glaze myself--but since it's called "New Car Glaze"--and Meguiar's recommends it for new cars--this would probably be the product you would want to use--I suspect it is a chemical cleaner that contains some mineral oils as well.

You would probably be fine just using the #26 Hi-Tech Yellow wax on a new car--a new car usually doesn't need much polishing IMHO.

jster · February 2001

BTW "Mike 542" is right--Show Car Glaze is a real good product--but I just don't think you need to use it on a new car

Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles