Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Lease Questions - Ask Here
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gerri
have a great nite.
gerri
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- In Canada (and perhaps the US?) I can get a standard rider to my insurance for the first 2 years (for about $40CDN) called Depreciation Waiver Coverage. As the insurance assoc. states: "Has your car been written-off in an accident within the first 24 months of the original delivery date? This optional coverage ensures that you will receive the full value of what you paid for the car -- without depreciation."
Would that not eliminate the risk you outline, at least for the first two years?
- For the remaining year (or years with a longer lease), it seems to boil down to the following - in exchange for ensuring you won't lose any down payment in case of totalling your car, you end up paying quite a bit more in interest costs.
To take a real example, a $5,000 (Canadian) down payment would save me about $1,319.44, over the life of a 3 year lease. That's fairly expensive insurance, particularly for a risk that only can occur in the last year of my lease (I realise it would be longer with a 4 year lease). In essence, do I want to pay $1,319.44 (in higher costs) to save myself $5,000 minus the extra interest I've paid upto the date I wreck the car?
- Lastly, it also seems that this risk is the same for those who buy a car - in essence, you risk losing the depreciation. I realise that leasing offers a way of avoiding that loss, but it doens't seem cheap!
Is my thinking right? I realise everyone will have different risk tolerances, etc. - I just want to make sure I'm outlining it correctly.
Many Thanks,
Mike
May I have the residuals and money factors for the Honday CR-V and Toyota RAV4? 3-year, 12k and 15k would be great. Thank you!
Thanks for the Service!
Can you get me the current money factor and residuals for the Saab 9-3 (SE 5-door) and 9-5 (all three versions). 12,000 miles/year. Any help is much appreciated.
Also, I have a general question about residuals. Is the residual percentage applied to the cap cost, MSRP, invoice, or something else entirely? If the residual is, say, 45%, what figure do I multiply by .45?
Thanks much.
Can you tell me the residual and money factor for a 2002 GMC Sonoma 4 dr Crew Cab SLS 4WD shortbed? I am interested in a 36 month, 15,000 mile per year lease? Also I see there is a $3,000 rebate on this truck, can I use that towards the lease downpayment???
Thanks,
Leland
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Here's a repost of my questions. Thanks in advance.
I have a 3yr lease on a 1999 Trooper that ends in the 1st week of August. The residual is the buyout price of $15,495. It has about 41,000 miles by then which is 5,000 over the lease at .15 a mile or $750. It's in very good shape with a couple of door dings and some scratches that I imagine I'd be charged for. It's a 4-wheel drive model with an automatic. The options are: nerf bars (like running boards), floor mats, cargo mat, bug shield, and a 6 disc, indash CD player. I've also added a trailer hitch, but I could take that off. I like the vehicle and will buy it if it's a good deal. I've looked in the newspaper here in Denver,CO and on-line on the Auto Trader. The lowest asking prices from private parties and dealers that I am seeing is about $17,500 with asking prices up to $19,000. Anything lower than $17,500 has a lot more miles. The TMV comes in much lower so I don't know if I should rely on say a value of $16,750 for August as a "market value". Here are my questions: 1)What is a good "market value # to compare to my buy out price of $15,495? 2)I will attempt to negotiate a lower price no matter what. What should I offer below the buy out. I'm thinking of offering $13,500 and accepting up to $14,500. Should I wait until the last minute to offer it? How do I get past a customer service rep and talk to someone who can negotiate? Will it help me in my negotiations to take financing with the leasing company GE Capital? I have excellent credit with a very high score. Has anyone had experience negotiating with GE Capital. This was a very good lease rated as "Gold Star" by Intelilease so I imagine there are a bunch of them coming due now. Any tips would be appreciated? 3) Some here has suggested not buying out a lease and having the dealer buy the vehicle at auction and then buy it back from them for a lower price? Is this a good plan? Can I be assured the dealer can get it? I assume they would have a pretty good idea of what they would have to pay for it. What would be a fair mark up to pay for them doing this?
Thanks a bunch. I'm looking forward to an education. Mark
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However, I'm now stumped on how to avoid paying all that extra interest that will come with putting down little, or no, money. How do I use the cash I have on hand (quite a bit) to lower the lease costs, without putting it at such risk?
If I could (safely) make the up front payment (or the like) I'm able to, I could save over $2,500 on a 3 year lease. There's also the issue of optics with my better half... She'll go nuts if she sees a large lease payment every month, but would be quite happy with the smaller one that would result with a decent up front payment.
Will making a quite large security deposit make a similar difference, as was suggested? Is there a risk that the leasing company will try to use up the large security deposit at lease end?
Many Thanks in Advance....
Mike
Figure you get .00010 to .00015 off for every EXTRA security deposit you place.
Sooo... say it is a $25K cap cost and like a $13K residual.
$136.80 saved on this deal over 36 months for every, say, $450 security deposit (I am assuming a MF of .00250 so we have a $428 payment) at a .00010 discount. At a .00015 discount ya save $205.20 for every extra $450 security deposit.
In other words.. say a $4,500 investment will "return" you $1,368.00 or $2,052.00 over 3 years, effectively tax-free.
Even at .00010, that's 10% or so a year... And at .00015 that's closing on a 15% annual return.
Not a bad deal, eh?
Jeez..do I sound like an accountant or what?
Bill
A question, though - what happens to security deposits if I total the car or it gets stolen? Do I still get my security deposit back??? If not, I'm back to where I was in the first place, with no safe place to put my money down :-(
Again, many thanks for your info. & calculations - if you ever get tired of cars, perhaps you have a second calling ;-)
Cheers,
Mike
On a VW.. they do MSDs in America... Dunno about the Great White Northern Wilderness tho
If it gets totalled, you do get the sec deposits back...
Bill
I'm looking at an actual lease file right now where the guy put $5,000 down. Cap cost (selling price) was $34,600. Monthly payments were $475.23. If it would've been totaled after making one payment the payout to Ford Credit would've been $29,323.51.
With the waiver of depreciation insurance, this person's insurance company would be cutting a cheque for $34,600. $29,323.51 would go to payout the lease, leaving $5,276.49 for the customer.
How has he lost his downpayment?
The more I think about it however, I wonder about this. It seems to me that as long as I pay for the value of the car, the leasing company shouldn't get a windfall (or shortfall) from my insurance. I think I'll call my insurance company.....
Bill aka Brentwoodvolvo - any views on this? Do you agree with landru2?
What happens anyway if a leased car is stolen or wrecked? Does the leasing company simply take the cash from the insurance and GAP insurance and say "thanks - see ya later", do they replace the car, etc?
Curiously yours,
Mike
Without the waiver of depreciation, the insurance will pay the leasing company the determined market value of the car with the leasing company absorbing however much it takes to add up to the payout (Gap insurance). So, the transaction takes place only between the insurance and leasing companies. This is when a downpayment could be lost.
With the waiver of depreciation insurance, the insurance company will give the customer a check, usually made payable to the customer and the leasing company. Then, the leasing company will refund you any difference between the payout and the insurance check. No windfall goes to the leasing company, just the lease payout.
A Canadian thing
I have not heard of that kind of insurance, but it sounds like a deal to me. I wouldnt buy or lease a new car without it if I could get it..
Seriously.. on that insurance I have NO idea, but if its' the case... go for it.
Bill
Landru2 - I too handn't seen much talk of multiple security deposits, but certain dealers refer to it on their web sites, newspaper ads, etc. I saw one such ad from BMW a few days ago.
Thanks again,
Mike
I just came back from a local Audi dealer that offered me the following on an Audi TT lease for a 225 hp model with the audio package option, 12000 mi a year - no money down (just pay the inceptions which amount to $1500 out of pocket)
39 month lease at $509.00 plus tax. They based it on a 55% residual and a money factor of .002150 (Audi financial). I feel I can do better - any suggestions on how to get a better deal?
Thanks for the help!
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Touche
Acura RL lease that is currently offered? One Houston dealer is currently quoting a capitalized cost of $38,300-will this go lower by the end of the Summer?
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Again, I will fill you in on the particulars of this car's current lease program as soon as you give me the additional information that I need. Talk to you soon.
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Regarding my post Nr. 3888 - do you have any thoughts on it? I spoke again with Audi and they reduced the cap cost to the mid $35,000 (in their words)and with inception fees of $1500 and out of pocket of $1000.00 the lease comes to $469.49 per month + tax. Is it possible to actually pay the tax up front and not assume it in thelease? Is this worthwhile? I live in FL.
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I am new to the list (this is my first post). What is the residual and money factor for the Acura MDX and Lincoln's Navigator? My wife and I love each vehicle and are trying to learn if it would advantagous to us to lease one of these new models. Thanks for your advice.