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Hope this helps.
Well it's at the paint shop now and I just received a call from them. They have just used two different solvents to try and remove the wax/polish and are still stuck with a "slick" surface. They do not want to paint, afraid of fish eyes or peeling later. Can't blame them and of course I don't want those king of results either!
Anybody had any experience with a similiar situation?
This has worked twice for me in the past with NO problems. I would think that they would also wet sand the paint a little to rough it up.
Sorry for your crease. My garage door hinge broke and dropped my HEAVY wood door on the rear my 2-week old Millennia S back in '95. I thought I would go crazy! My EX-Cellent body shop fixed it perfectly - undetectable.
I e-mailed Sal Zaino and he said that any competent body shop should be able to prep the surface with commercially available products.
I know my shop is competent and has done excellent work for me in the past. I'm wondering if they think I am going to be too picky once the work is complete, because they know me and know that I will want perfection, especially on this brand new vehicle with flawless paint on the rest of the body.
Jeff
Just wanted to tell everyone that the new Z2 is definitely better than the old version!
Secondly, ZFX really does provide all of the other claimed advantages, including more extended area of coverage per amount of polish; much faster drying time; easier buffing-off; and a somewhat more lustrous finish than seen with the older method involving Z-1.
Rather than applying a coat of Z-6 between each coat of ZFX-enabled Z-5 or Z-2, I chose to follow the older advice of simply keeping the applicator pad moist with Z-6 by spritzing a small amount of Z-6 on the pad whenever I added more ZFX-enabled polish. (I've recently spoken with Sal about continuing this strategy, and he encouraged it.) At any rate, the results look even more stunning than the older method, and this is quite remarkable.
I'm now among those who've seen firsthand the enormous advantages of combining ZFX with Zaino polishes, but that said, I offer the following comments.
I found it very difficult to attempt to clean the 2 oz. mixing bottles of residual polish even when the mixture was less than 6 hours old. Unless you have test-tube cleaning brushes on hand (as well as time), you'll likely just end up throwing the bottles away as I did. Similar plastic bottles with closable spouts can be found exceedingly cheap at most drugstores, and they will likely work just as well. When you're done, pitch 'em.
Also, it's unfortunate that Zaino's 2 oz. mixing bottles are not marked or graduated to indicate volume. I had to use a kitchen measure and then place a premeasured amount of water into one of Zaino's bottles in order to estimate volume. According to my measurements, the Zaino bottle holds 2 ounces when filled to the brim, and if you then add this much polish, there's no room for mixing to occur, let alone 10 drops of ZFX. Instead, I added about 1.5 oz. of polish, then 8 drops of ZXF. There was then enough space remaining to shake and mix the solution.
Using the above mentioned volumes, I found that my '03 4Runner (which is a largish mid-size SUV) required all of the 1.5 oz. of ZFX/Z-5, while the 2nd coat using ZFX/Z-2 required less than an ounce to cover the entire truck. Thus, when in doubt it would seem wise to initially mix less, and to then mix more if needed, rather than mix too much polish and end up wasting the remainder.
I have no trouble cleaning the bottles. I drop them in a pot with some diswashing liquid and let them soak. When I get back to them, they rinse out perfectly.
Also - I put need a little over 1 oz of Z-2 in the bottle to do 3 coats - this is easy enough to estimate, mix and shake. If some of the stuff inside hardens - so what? It's just Z and you will put in more Z later.
I think you are using too much Z. 1.5 ounces should get at least 2 coats with your vehicle. Z goes a long way. I found that you do not have to see a haze for the z to cover the entire vehicle! I also spray a little Z6 on the pad. I love how easy it goes on and comes off and the results are amazing!
I would "guesstimate" that I probably used a nickel-sized dollop of polish for every 2-3 sq. ft. of surface area with the ZFX/Z-5, and this area includes (with the exception of the engine compartment): 1) all exterior paint finish and trim moldings, as well as running boards, rocker panels, etc.; 2) most of the inner, harder to reach (ughh!), painted surfaces and recesses of the four doors/door jams, as well as the painted inner aspects of the rear hatch; 3) All of the grillwork, as well as all exterior lenses, including headlights, tail-lights, reflectors, etc.; 4) All four 17" alloy wheels.
Frankly, when it came time to add a coat of ZFX/Z-2, I was too tired to attempt to include all of the inner door work and door jams again, so I just did the easier-to-reach exterior with ZFX/Z-2 as the 2nd coat.
Subjectively speaking, it seemed as though the vehicle's finish "sucked up" or required more ZFX/Z-5 base coat, while the follow-up coat of ZFX/Z-2 seemed to go on more easily and more sparingly.
My new 4Runner is white, and unlike when the vehicle was first new in 9/03 and I first "Zaino'd" it, this last time it took me a DAY just to clean and prep the truck for polishing on the 2nd day. Lord, what a job it was to really clean this white vehicle after so long an interval between detailing jobs! White vehicles look really sharp and are actually much better at hiding dust and light dirt when compared to darker vehicles, but there's no doubt that white vehicles are harder to clean well when detailing them. Next time, I'll be sure to get with the program even more by using Zaino's claybars!
I think it might be the imitation chamois I am using even though I do my best to keep it very clean.
Here's my dilemna. I going to be trading in my Outback for an 05 this year, and MAY....I repeat MAY, go with black. So, I want to ensure that I have the correct wash/dry setup to maintain the finish in top shape.
Q1. What is best washing tool? I currently use a wool mit.
Q2. What is the best drying tool? Currently use imitation chamois because I find it a bit more nap than a real chamois (which btw, would always scratch my previous vehicles). I've tried the california water blade but with my Outback, found that I would end up having to dry most of the vehicle again anyway because of the many uneven surfaces, roof rails etc.
My apologies if these Qs have been answered in other posts.
Thanks.
Sorry to hear about those spider web marks. Maybe you're using the polish a little too sparingly?
Also, how is the Mr.Clean System on it's own..any durability reports yet ?
Tnx
Also, does the ZFX help the buffing process when removing?? I've used that only once.
cont'd next post......
Also, ensure you moisten your pad well with Z6 prior to applying your Z polish. I usually apply 2 or 3 good sprays to the pad before the Z polish. Believe it or not, its been over 4 years doing my Outback and still on my original bottles z1 z2 z5 z6 (almost done my z2 and z5 though). Replaced clay once, and on my last half of my 2nd bottle of z7 wash (in winter up here don't use nearly as much because its too cold to wash!).
Hope this helps.
Anyway, give it a try next time you wash. It may not work for all depending on the vehicle shape and surface obstructions, but it certainly works for me.
Cheers.
A Zymol detailing shop would be a second choice.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Tnx
Of course, this stuff is left on the paint when you let the car dry. Is this a good idea? Too soon to tell, but it sure makes me nervous.
I use a "fan spray" from the garden department to wash the car. The wide, low-pressure spray makes it even easier to flood the surface of the car and flow all the water off when rinsing. Then, the surface tension of the water pulls it right off - there is hardly any water left to wipe off. I use 1 towel to do 2 cars. Because the fan spray covers a larger area, it works even better than the "open hose end" method. Try it!
Is this fan spray same concept as a the extension wand for watering plants? If so, I now understand what you are referring to and agree that this would work just as well. In the winter, I ocassionally wash my car in my garage (its insulated, with a heater and some drain holes) and use the garden wand so as to avoid spraying all over the walls. It works just as well as the open hose.
1. Lambswool mit for washing vehicle?
2. Terry cloth or chamois for drying vehicle?
3. Zaino terry pad for applying Z?
4. 100% cotton terry for removing Z?
Appreciate any views. Planning on getting new car in a few months and want to start fresh with latest and best tools.
thx.
For the fan spray - it is similar to the plant wand, but is short and wide. It is called just that - a "fan spray". Plastic, usually green. You want to use high-volume, low pressure water on your car at all times!
Dissatisfied customer.
I'm going to give it the full boat treatment, with multiple coats of Z5 and Z2.
I'm wondering if I should do a Dawn Wash, Z 18 Clay, Z treatments; or a Dawn Wash, Z 18 Clay, Dawn(or Z7) wash, Z treatments?
Any comments from the group?
Been too rainy here in the upper midwest to apply much Zaino. I'm having a hard enough time keeping up with the growth rate of my lawn, and finding windows of opportunity when it's not raining or I'm not working late. I feel compelled, for my neighbors' sake, to do the lawn before the Zaino. Or do I have my priorities mixed up?
:-)
We are in Wisconsin, and I think our two cars went from Feb or maybe March until June between washes. It rains about every other day.
We finally had two weekends in June where it was nice, so I did both cars one weekend each. They had been Z'd late last year. I washed, clayed and did two coats of Z5, and one of Z2 on the van we just traded
They had been clayed several years ago, probably 1999.
This was the first time I had used ZFX. I have to say it does work. I've always had some smearing on the hood of the CL when doing single coats of Z2 or Z5. With the ZFX, it dries better, and comes off better, no smearing. I used a plastic 35mm film container to mix the Z. They hold about one ounce. I got two coats on the CL and on the larger Villager with this one ounce. The film container is easy to clean out. I just tipped the can over onto the applicator for an instant, and this give you the nickel sized blob to work with.
I'd say your chances of "returning" the car are between slim and none. Best to try to work with the delivering dealer to rectify the problems - if you're not satisfied, then call the manufacturer and open up a case number/ask to speak with the zone rep.
Buffing isn't necessarily a bad thing (all cars need it at some point in their lives), if it's done right (which is the key - I'd negotiate with the dealer to find a place with a good, solid reputation, someplace that details/preps Benzes and Bimmers, et. al.). However, since it does remove some of the layer of clearcoat, you can't do it too many times (my black Aurora has been buffed out 3x in the last 15 months, twice because the snowplow factory next to my workplace is having paint overspray issues - and my car has orange paint drops on it again. Don't want to get it buffed yet again only to have this problem keep reoccuring - at some point they're going to pay for a repaint, if their paint problems aren't rectified).
Just my 2 cents,
--Robert
--Robert
Just a few comments from the last several messages.
First, my neighbor works for P&G (maker of the Mr. Clean auto soap) and was one of the testers for their "no dry" product. He gets all P&G products for free. He offered one of those Mr. Clean auto wash kits to me. I respectfully declined because drying my car takes all of about 10 minutes (if that) using the "streaming hose rinse" technique. I also use a Waterblade which really cuts down on drying time.
While he doesn't use Zaino, he does use some other wax (Meguiars?). Don't know if it's a function of the wax or the Mr Clean wash, but he's reapplying wax every month. Plus, I can guarantee my shine is better than his.
Of course, I've got about 8 coats of Zaino on my car, too (only 1 coat applied this past spring and it still looks great).
I'm a big microfiber fan for washing, drying and applying Zaino. I bought mine at Autotopia.com, but it looks like they are no longer around.
tmart...those 10 minutes of drying time won't make much of a difference for me. Plus, Z7 has, and continues to do the job well for me. It's done so for many years now.
If I wasn't the "shiny car fanatic" that I am, maybe the Mr Clean no dry stuff would be of more interest.
I'm a little daunted by the whole process, and I live in an apartment complex with no convenient place to work on car.
Does it make sense to find a pro shop that uses Zaino products to get me started and get the base coats down? Then it would be more thinkable for me to renew them over time.
I was under the impression that there was more to a proper initial job than this:
1) Wash with Blue Dawn
2) Claybar all
3) Wash with Z7
4) Several coats of polymer & accelerator
etc.
Since you have a new vehicle, to make it real simple, wash with blue Dawn and then apply one coat of Z2 with ZFX and you're done until it's wash time again. For the second wash, wash with Z7. Adding the second coat of Z2 is your call, because the finish is protected for 5+ months anyway. Bet you add the second coat though....then you're hooked!