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Honda Passport Maintenance
AC Fuse blows, what could be the problem?
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#215 of 215: auburn63 (reddogs) Fri 24 Mar '00 (01:51 AM)
Heres one that I just had, it was on a 98 Passport
(I made a topic, 1145 Honda Passport Maintenance
so U can post the answer there). It blew the AC
fuse one morning at 10k and I took it in, I ask
them to check and find out why it blew, they said a bare connector/moisture(??) must have blew the
fuse. A few months later at 17k it did the same
thing, went to start, no AC, I told the service rep he had to find the problem this time and he
replaced the alternator, connections, but couldnt
give me a good reason. A few mornings later the
battery died. Now I've had batteries on Honda
Accords go low/die and I know it causes other
problems when this happens, could this have been
the cause of the AC fuse blowing??
Reddogs - I had this problem 6 or 7 years ago with an 89 Accord. I don't remember the exact diagnosis. It had something to do with something within the a/c unit dripping on something else. What I DO remember is that it cost me 500 bucks!
It happened immediately after I had had bodywork done on the front left fender after the car was hit while parked. The a/c unit was right inside where the damage was, so I felt like it was related to the accident.
FWIW, I had that car ten years and replaced the battery twice, each time because it had died on me. No other problems resulted from the battery issues.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
crazy but ended up finding a short under the
drivers side of the radiator. There is a main
harness that runs under there and the radiator has
to come out in order to inspect it. There was
another one that we didn't find the short and we
ended up dividing the circuit up and installing
seperate fuses in the problem lines. So for now if
it is fixed just see if it remains fixed. Shorts
are very difficult to find when they take
days/months to show up then go away.Hard shorts are
a piece of cake but these types are not.As far as
could the battery have caused this,well anything is
possible but I dont think so.Hope I have helped.
#0 of 0: (kimugene) Mon 10 Apr '00 (09:48 PM)
I have a '98 Honda Passport. This truck has been
intermittantly stalling when idle. The tachometer
goes wildly up and down and finally the engine
dies. This does not happen all the time so when I
take the truck to the dealer, they say they can
not reproduce the problem. This stalling problem had happen at least 10 times and I took the truck in at least five times for this problem. There is also an issue with the brake noise and engine oil
burning quicker than normal. Does anybody have a
similar problem with this model?
Anyone have any suggestions for kimugene?
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
The noise I referred to occurs while driving and going through a steady turn, doesn't matter if I'm going fast or slow. It doesn't have to be a sharp, full turn, just going around a normal corner, or turning into a driveway.
Thanks........
Passport had lost power and "check" engine light came on. Ran ok, but would not accelerate from 60 mph on freeway (very dangerous in Atlanta). dealership said was egr valve and back ordered part. They said it was ok to drive and got the part about 3 weeks later. Repaired it and I drove home. Next day, I started accelerate to merge and it just totally lost power. Almost couldn't go slight incline to exit.
Now, dealer says both catalictic converters had "collapsed". Does this sound right to you knowledgable folks? We're talking over over $1,400 just for parts. Did driving with bad egr valve cause damage to converters?
thanks for any thoughts you may have
Cptom
The dealership has been able to get it to duplicate the problem, however, their computer cannot get a code. We are getting nowhere with Honda and have asked them to either replace the vehicle or give us our money back under existing statutory lemon laws. Has anyone else had this problem and if so, what has Honda done about it?
Thanks, jack
have been having this annoying problem. When I
put
the transfer lever to 4H or 4L the 4X4 light on
the dash sometimes work and sometimes it doesn't
work. Although when the light does not work and I
place it on 4L I can feel that the 4 wheel drive
is
working. But I don't know if I am on borrowed
time on the 4 wheel drive or what. Does anybody
else have this problem? I called the Honda dealer
and they said they have no idea and that I have to
bring it in and pay 80 bucks just for them to look
at it. So I called the Isuzu dealer which is it's
brother and they said that the vacuum switch could
be messing up. The vacuum switch is 50 bucks and
labor is 85 bucks. So any information on this
would help.
thanks...
contact me at apparelbiz@aol.com
The problems are: we have a bad vibration in the rear speakers, the sound quality is poor. We need to keep the bass setting low to rectify this problem. It has been in 3 times for this problem and nothing solved. Next, the dashboard squeaks near the odometer. The dealer removed the dash, put on a new gasket and now it squeaks worse! Third, we have a grinding in the brakes. the dealer stated it is the rear rotors. They needed to be replaced for a "nominal fee" of approx. $100.00. I took the vehicle to a personal friend and was informed that this would not be the problem w/ the grinding. Also, the ABS lights and System would engage at any time and nearly resulted in several accidents. The light was fixed, the ABS system engaging could not be reproduced. We also have discovered a leak in the moon roof near the driver's side door. With a water test, the problem could not be reproduced. We have contacted the dealer many time to request a meeting w/ Honda to no avail! If anyone has solutions to these problems it would be greatly appreciated. Our suggestion, don't purchase a Honda SUV!
Please.... I beg of you.... Don't purchase this vehicle. The Engine light comes on all the time.
The list of minor to major issues I have with my Honda go on and on and on and on.....
The dealership is happy and cordial about my plight, but never seem to permanently remedy my SUV's issues.
I'll try the ring kit fix this time. I'm going to head to the local Isuzu dealership. They may have some added expertise in this area.
Don't buy a Passport.
Get a Honda Accord.
Jack jmcwilli@sandi.net
Do a search for passport. You will see several topics, particularly in the SUV conference that will be a better place to get this question answered.
Not trying to discourage anyone from answering...
but the other conferences will get a better response.
Your host, Bruce
Please feel free to participate in our Town Hall forums within the guidelines of our Participant Agreement. Thanks for your participation. ;-)
Pocahontas,
Edmunds.com/Roving Host
How many others out there are having this problem?
Recently, I experienced noise and a shuddering upon braking. I brought the car (with 32K miles on it) in to a different dealer and they determined that the problem was due to "the rotors and drums being out of spec". The rotors and drums were turned to the tune of $216. I thought that such a repair would be covered under the warranty. When I found out it wasn't, the dealer "graciously" gave me an hour goodwill time, reducing my bill down to $144. I had brought the car in to this dealer a few weeks before for its 30K maintenance. At the time, there was no problem noted with the brakes and the pads had 6mm/3mm front and rear, respectively, remaining.
I also complained to Honda, which rejected my claim, stating that the repair is maintenance-related and is not covered under the warranty. They also said that the problem is probably due to the way I drive the car, implying that I brake too hard.
Has anyone else out there had a similar problem? Do you think it is unreasonable for my drums and rotors to be turned at 32K miles?
Is there anyone out there with these problems? Or any suggestions?
I have 73,ooo miles on tires with lots of tread left--rotate every 5,000 miles.
Vibration problems solved with good wheel balance.
Shudder on braking at 18000 miles solved with new pads on rear and machining rotors.
Engine warning light was diagnosed correctly by dealer--fill up and make sure gas cap is tight.