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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    "To get to the timing belt, one has to get the valve cover out of the way".

    This is not a true statement for a 626 with a V6 engine, Mazda Protege with a DOHC 1.8 l engine. I will not speak for a 4 cyl, 626 but I do not believe that it applies there either.

    To get to the timing belt, you remove the drive belts, tensioner pulleys, and the timing belt cover(s). No need to remove the valve cover unless you are replacing the cam oil seals, and do not have an impact wrench to loosen the cam sprocket bolts. Then you remove the valve cover, hold the cam in place by slipping an adjustable wrench over hex portion of each cam and loosen the sprocket bolt. You do the same when retightening the sprocket bolt to spec.

    You really can reuse the old valve cover gasket at least once becuase it is made of moulded rubber and very little sillicone sealant is used on it when assembled at the factory (and only in select locations). If reinstalled correctly, it should not leak if the rubber is still piable and undamaged. However, I do recommend replacing the gasket every time. It is cheap insurance. Also, it is important to replace the rubber sealing washers under the valve cover bolts.
    And follow the mazda shop manual instructions where small amounts of silicone sealant need to be applied. And torque all vavle cover bolts to spec in several increments and correct sequence.

    Water pumps on these cars typically use a moulded O-ring (at least 6 cylinder version does). It should be replaced with each water pump change. There is no need for any silicone sealant on this O-ring. You must be very careful to make sure it does not slip out of the pump housing groove when you bolt the new pump on.
  • p100,

    In the L4 I do believe you need to get the valve cover off. The timing belt cover is a plastic 'spashguard' on the side, but you cannot get to the cam sprockets if you don't remove the cam cover out of the way. There may be a way of avoiding this if you are just changing the water pump, but if you have to take off, and later install, the timing belt it would be tough to do it with the cam cover on.

    In my case, the cam cover gasket that did not get replaced when the timing belt and water pump were replaced had ~70K miles on it. It was extremely hard and brittle when I did change it. As you say, changing it is cheap insurance (I think it was $15).


  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Which year and engine?
  • Alcan,

    Mine's a 95 2.0L with ATX. I don't know how different this engine may be from newer/older L4s. Also, I don't plan to do any of this on my 626. I was just giving some info to a fellow with problems (oil going into spark plug wells, etc., etc.).

    However, and taking the opportunity that alcan is roaming the forum, I need a bit of information regarding the radiator fan circuit on this car. I have the schematics, showing three relays. Do you or anyone else know how they work? I mean, I can see which relay turns on when they get the signal from the PCM, but I don't know how they are wired to the motor (or how the coils/windings of the motors are arranged). Is this three-relay setup one of those serial/parallel arrangements? Apparently relay #1 and #2 give +Vbat to the motor, and relay #3 grounds one of the motor's circuits. Relay #2 and #3 are closed simultaneously by the PCM. Also, I don' know if it's the same PCM signal that closes all three relays (there only one line coming out of the PCM circuit diagram, but two different ones getting to the fan relays). I'm trying to figure out if one of my relays is pooched (sticking closed once it closes for the first time), and this info would be great to know to troubleshoot it.


  • randno1randno1 Posts: 1
    I took the head off my '89 626 (w/Turbo) and had it rebuilt (blown head gasket). It's a 2.2 L4.
    Now I need to reassemble it and get the crankshaft and camshaft lined properly so I can reinstall the timing belt. Can anyone tell me where to put the crankshaft (piston positions), where to put the camshaft pulley, and how to mount the belt so that the timing will be correct?
  • I just recently acquired a used 1987 Mazda 626 and to make a long story short, I need to know how to remove the front wheel bearing so I can change out the lugs the my neighborhood Firestone mech sheared off. I've already removed the entire rotor assembly, but the spindle appears to be one with the bearing.
  • The belt pullies will un-bolt from the crankshaft, and you can see a timing mark on the belt drive gear; This mark should be straight up, pointing to a little mark on the front cover. The cam gear has large markings that will tell you where all the valves are. The "#1" should be straight up as well.
    Make sure all the slack is out of the belt when you tighten the tensioner. Good Luck & God Bless.
  • I have a 1994 Mazda 626 DX (Manual, 4cyl) And I have been having a problem with the engine for several years, that no mechanic that I have taken it to has been able to solve!

    When the problem first surfaced I almost got into an accident. When downshifting to turn a corner, the idle dropped to 0 and the engine stalled, which then took out the power steering! The idle has since been adjusted up, so now it doesn't completely cut out, it just drops really low, flashes the check engine light, and shoots back up. The only thing that I can do to keep this from happening is to shift into neutral and let go of the clutch. When I am stopped and Idling, if the clutch is pressed the Idle bounces up and down, but once I put the gear in neutral and let go of the clutch, it stops bouncing. As soon as I put it back into gear, the bouncing idle returns!

    When the Computer Diagnostic was run, it said that my Mass Air Flow sensor was bad, and I replaced that, but it didn't help. I also had to replace the computer from a different problem, and the distributor (which was done by my local Mazda Dealer) and that didn't solve the problem either. I've been taking it to several mechanics for the past 4 years now and the problem is still there! Has anyone else encountered this problem or have any ideas what I need to do to get rid of it?

  • I had the same thing happen on my 1991 626 DX (engine stall with clutch engaged). It actually turned out to be a crack in the rubber air intake hose. Check between the air filter box and the engine, there may be a crack. If so, duct tape will provide a temporary fix until the intake hose can be repaced.
  • Well, I checked that out, and the hose looks to be in perfect condition. Any other suggestions? Thanks for your help!
  • any help on 1991 mazda 626, screeching noise while acclerating?
  • Belts maybe? What engine and transmission?
  • 626town626town Posts: 7
    well my mass air flow went bad on my 94 626 and my coil (about $55.00 )at the same time. A mazda dealer fixed that problem for me. After other mechanics couldn`t`t. look at your engine while it`s running,in a dark garage.If you see a blue fog like light around your coil and ignition wires , well thats your problem.
  • rangerlgrangerlg Posts: 2
    Sometimes when I am driving my 2000 626, the air conditioner will stop blowing cold. Wheni t does this, my idle will be real high (above 2000 RPM). I can actually begin to go in 1st gear without putting my foot on the gas (I ha a manual). I have 99,000 miles on this car. Is this my compressor going out or maybe something simple. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    A vacuum leak could cause those symptoms. Check for any cracked or disconnected vacuum lines.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    A malfunctioning A/C relay could cause these problems. Looks like your A/C compressor clutch does not get current all the time (this is why A/c blows hot occasionally.

    Another possible reason for intermittent A/C malfunction is contamination of the A/C compressor clutch harness connector. this connector is located directly below the coolant overflow bottle. I had this problem with my 99 626 V6. The collant bottle had a slow leak along the bottom seam. How coolant got into A/C compressor clutch harness connector and contaminated ti. My A/C would work intermittently until it finally quit. Replacing the bottle and cleaning the connector fixed the problem for good. I also had an A/C relay fail once. the cost of the relay is about $ 26.
  • steamer1steamer1 Posts: 1
    !st how to instal a water pump belt on a mazda 626. 2nd why I have had problems with the length of time the water pump belt lasts only 2 months the last one
  • sd01sd01 Posts: 1
    Clean or replace the idle air control (IAC) motor/valve. It's a stepping motor that manages idle and benefits driveability. When inspecting this part, be sure not to lose any gasket/o-ring used for installation.

    Another possiblity is that your throttle position sensor (TPS) is going bad somewhere in its travel.
  • Howdy... For the second time in about 2 months, my 2001 Mazda 626 ES V6 has had difficulty starting. Once it was a cold start, the second time was warm, but the symptom was the same. On the first attempt, the car starts, but then the engine abruptly stops after a few seconds. With numerous attempts, the engine turns over but doesn't catch. Then, after 20-30 minutes it starts up fine and is able to start ok numerous times subsequently. Any ideas on the problem/solution? Fuel injection?
  • hahnsolohahnsolo Posts: 1
    I just bought a used mazda 626 at 61k miles.
    Recently the check engine light would flicker on and off depending if i turned a corner hard or hit a bump.

    Now i took the car on the xpress way and now it wont go off. Anyone ever have this problem? Suggestions?

    I just had the car inpected and oil changed with no problems
  • crsmithcrsmith Posts: 1
    My 97 626 4 cyl 5 spd will sometimes not start in the morning. It cranks at a normal rate but will not start. When it first happened and was towed into the shop, they replaced the fuel pressure regulator and changed the oil and spark plugs. When it happened again, a week later, we had the battery replaced since it was due. It wouldn't start last Sunday morning at first, but we were able to get it started a couple of hours later. Once it starts for the day, it's fine. When it starts, it runs great. Any ideas?

    I don't know if it's related, but occasionally I've noticed the tach dropping to 0 for a second then back up again while driving on the highway.
  • man_human_hu Posts: 1
    I've got the same problem on 94 626 GLXI (french appelation i presume. Yes i'm french in france)
    Tonight i've been in a dark place an effectively ther's some light on the ignition wires.
    I think i will command them tomorow.
    Today i've change the coil and it's not good. In France it's cost 75€ (almost 80 us$).
    I've found this very expensive. :cry:
  • pteezypteezy Posts: 3
    Well.. i bought this car.. and its nice but its got a bad tranny.. errors in 2nd and 4th gear and an overheating issue ( had the computer scanned) and it idles really high when cold and really low after.. vibrates alot and when u roll down the window or somethin it gets worse... any suggestions.. new tranny or rebuild?
  • rangerlgrangerlg Posts: 2
    I am looking at changing the AC clutch on my 626. I am scanning the parts sites and it has listing for three different bearings. Do I need all these bearing for my clutch? I can't seem to find an already assembled clutch to just replace. Also, is this a real tough job? I assume I will have to pull the belts to access the clutch. I was going to change then out anyway. Thanks for the help.
  • bshabazzbshabazz Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1995 Mazda 626 4 cyl, about 3 months ago. About a month after I had it, the water pump started leaking anti-freeze. Found out the water pump was the oldest thing on the car (last owner kept all records of maintenance). My Dad recently replaced my leaking water pump with a brand new pump, and brand new thermostat. When I bought the car, the timing belt was just replaced so my Dad did not replace that. After about a week, my water pump leaks again from the same area. I'm not sure if it is the water pump itself or if it is a hose that anti-freeze is leaking from, but one thing is for definite is that it leaks, once again! Do you know what he might have done wrong for a brand new pump to leak so fast again? He put sealant around the pump and everything and it's still leaking. Do you think it may be a hose or something? Thanks for the help.
  • i'm trying to replace the drive axles on an '87 626 for my roommate. i've done this on my hondas... to do this, i've popped the tie rod joint, and removed the bolt snugging the ball joint to the hub, but can't seem to get the ball joint to separate fully from the hub. is there something i'm missing? i've used a LOT of leverage, applying downward pressure on the control arm while hitting it with a hammer to try to pop it... it slid about halfway out, slowly, with a LOT of hammering, but now doesn't move. my honda ball joint popped easily - almost exactly like the tie rod joint. any help??

    sincere appreciation!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    It probably has some rust buildup on the stud of the ball joint. First, give it a good dose of PB Blaster penetrating oil. Then to get extra leverage, bolt a chain around the outer end of the control arm forming a loose loop. Slide the bar through the chain until the inner end of the bar is at the control arm pivot. Should give enough leverage to pop the ball joint loose. Also, make sure the outer edge of the control arm isn't catching on the brake rotor splash shield when you pry it down.
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    I have an american version 94 ATX here in Greece and the CEL comes on. It used to come on only under load (uphill accelerating etc)I have installed xternal trans cooler and now it comes on at lower speeds and occasionally stays on till I come to a stop. It has ford EEC IV and I drew codes using jumper from sti and sto and retrieved 159 118 119 possibly 181. I cleared the codes and am back in USA now.It is difficult to read the codes and I am not certain about a few of them but almost positive that the 159 is accurate. Also when running car (parked) to warm it up pre testing, it is almost impossible to maintain 2000 rpm . Get near 2000 then surges to 2500 and then when I try to back off it drops back to 1500. Maybe that will mean something to you guys? I think it is prolly MAF or O2 sensor but would like to find a inexpensive tool to read the codes accurately. I do not want to change parts randomly. Car has 55k on it and went thru CEL light to Hold light progression 3 years ago and had tranny rebuilt prolly unnecessarily. After rebuild mechanic ordered a sensor and all was fine for 20 months or so. He does not remember what part he changed and Mazda does not keep records back to 2001 I thought it was MAF but Mazda said they never sold that sensor without entire housing It cost $59.45 from Mazda Feb 15th 2001 Aside from light car drives fine.I am concerned what will happen when it gets warm in Greece. Maybe nothing
  • Thanks! using your advice, i successfully separated the ball joint. =)

    i'm now trying to remove the old brake disc to replace it. it has 4 bolts holding it to the spindle/hub from the back side. there is an opening on the back large enough to get an open ended wrench in, but these bolts are on GOOD, and i fear that i'm going to strip them before they come loose. i've used some P.O. and tried a deep angle box end wrench, but can't get it around the head of the bolt with so little room.

    i have a manual for MY car, but this is my roommates, and i'm just trying to help him out. any (more) advice will again be sincerely appreciated! =)

  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    My info shows it's a captive rotor. You'll have to remove the steering knuckle/hub/rotor assembly and take it to a machine shop with a press to disassemble it. Might also require a new wheel bearing as they tend to separate when pressing the hub out.
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