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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • No deductible? That's fairly impressive. Does it have any blatant exclusions?
  • jerryc5jerryc5 Posts: 1
    1994 626, 4 cyl, 5-speed manual tran., 75,000 miles
    While driving at highway speed, engine turns off for 1-2 seconds then restarts. No sputtering on turn off or turn on. Tach goes to zero, no engine lights come on. Has even done this with cruise control on. When engine restartss, cruise control is still activated. Happened to my son twice yesterday afternoon on a 125 mile trip. Happened once or twice a month ago. Then nothing till last week when it happened two or three times. Has not occured on city streets. No starting or idling problems. The event is almost over before you realize something is wrong.
  • Sounds like the thermal-overload problem that bedeviled the ignition modules on '93s and '94s. (Cruise control makes no difference.) What's really fun is that this sets no codes. If you can find the module separately, you're in luck, but expect them to try to sell you an entire distributor.
  • tro4tro4 Posts: 5
    Hey windowphobe6 and other helpful folks -- I have been taking care of my Mom's 626 for a couple of years now, and one thing I want to do is a partial drain and refill of the trans fluid. The car drives fine, no symptoms, but the fluid is starting to turn brown (clear brown, but still brown). She doesn't drive much -- only 29k on the car, and it might shift a little harshly, but I'm probably imagining that.

    I've considered doing a flush, but with such low miles, I want to do the drain 3 quarts and refill first as a cheap experiment. My question is -- where is the drain plug? Is it the plug that requires an allen wrench in the center of the bottom of the tranny? The dealer told me to use the same crush washer as the oil drain plug, but this one on the tranny doesn't appear to have any crush washer on it at all. Is this it, or do I have to drop the pan (not my favorite activity)??

    Oh, and one other thing -- any issues with using Dextron 3? I understand it is compatible with Dextron 2, and OK to blend.

  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Posts: 183
    A drain and fill every 15K with standard, or every 30K with syn should help a lot. I would also use Lubegard. Since it is dark now, I would do a complete flush.

    Too much money for a replacement.
  • My shop manual for the GF4A-EL doesn't even mention the drain plug, but then it's the '93 edition, and if Chilton's is to be believed, they didn't start putting drain plugs in these things until, um, 1995.

    At least you have a pan you can drop, unlike those of us out here in CD4Eland.

    Mazda's current recommendation, last I heard, was Dexron II, IIE, or III. Ray's 15k advice for same seems sound enough.
  • tro4tro4 Posts: 5
    OK, you guys are giving me courage to drop the pan as a first step (I may still do the flush later). I don't have a shop manual yet, so here are a couple of questions to boost my courage even more:
    1. can you tell me the torque specs for the tranny pan bolts on the GF4A trans?

    2. Is it wise to coat the new pan gasket I will get from the dealer with any permatex or anything else, or just put it on dry?

    3. anything I should look for when I drop the pan to see what kind of condition the tranny is in?

    4. Is there a preferred sequence to torquing he bolts to prevent leaks?

    5. Do I refill the trans through the dipstick (hope so)or is there a filler port on top of the trans (hope not).

    As Roseanne Roseanadana said, "you ask a lot of questions for someone from New Jersey"! So I appreciate the help!
  • 1. Torque the bolts (both for the filter and the pan itself) to 8.4-10.7 Nm (74-95 in-lb).

    2. Install the gasket as is.

    3. There's a magnet down there to attract ferrous debris; anything you find there is steel. There may be nonferrous material also, probably worn off a band. Small amounts of either aren't worth worrying about, but big chunks should give you pause.

    4. I don't see any prescribed sequence, but I'd do them the way I do lug nuts - don't do two adjacent ones in sequence.

    5. Fill through the dipstick tube. Refill capacity on this thing is 9.3 US quarts.
  • sugarmagsugarmag Posts: 10
    Hope someone has got some advice for me. I have a 99 626 ES V6 that I purchased new. I just ran out of warranty in Jan. Of course now I'm having problems with the paint. I noticed last week that the hood & trunk have white spots on them. SOme are just spots, almost like chips, some are what I've heard called "crows feet", where the paint looks like its splitting. I have been EXTREMELY careful w/ my car - its hand washed every week, waxed every 3-4 months, w/ a full detail twice a year. It's also been garage kept up until the last 4 months when we moved. It's dark blue, so this is why I've been so anal about it. And it seems like all this effort was wasted. What can I do, can I do anything to make it not get any worse? Do I have any recourse w/ Mazda? I don't want to have to get a paint job & kill my resale value even more. Please help. I'm going to try & get by the dealer next week, but I didn't have any luck w/ my tranny ghost before so I'm not expecting much.
  • tro4tro4 Posts: 5
    Thanks, windowphobe6, for the excellent advice. I was thinking that if I dropped the pan, I would get 3-4 quarts out, and fluid in the torque converter would stay up there. Will I get more than that?
  • You can pull the torque convertor out if you're so inclined, but I tend to think that it's more trouble than it's worth.
  • korchmakorchma Posts: 12
    Hello everybody,

    I am about to purchase a Mazda Extended Protection Plan (administered by APCO).
    It will cost me $1199 for 6/100000.
    I have 626 auto/4 cyl/2000 with no problems.
    Does anybody have any experience with this kind of warranty?
  • korchmakorchma Posts: 12
    .... it has 46 K now :)
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I would definitely buy it, and then not service it at all.

    I love my Mazda and my son loves his. However, it has a very fussy auto tranny.
  • flamazdaflamazda Posts: 11
    626, 4 cylinder 2.0 liter -- any after market one OK, our do we need to use OEM part? Dealer wants $16 for the little piece of plastic here. Thanks
  • mark38lmark38l Posts: 10
    My opinion is extened warranties are a waste of money, especially for $1,100.

    Use this as a guideline my 98 Mazda 626 has 78,000 miles. The only maintance other than oil changes has been a clutch and front brake job both at about 55,000 and both would not be covered under any warranty.

    If you still think you want the warranty bargin hunt with other Mazda dealers you can get it for alot less than $1,100.

    hope this helps
  • korchmakorchma Posts: 12
    Thanks, guys, for sharing your experience..
    I think I'll buy it this time, it's my first car and I am not sure of what to expect to..
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    But don't neglect regular maintenence.
  • ckonnickckonnick Posts: 5
    just purchased a new leftover 2001 lx-v6 w/ auto trans (got a bargain). it has 175 miles. i notice a slight hesitation when i get on the throttle relatively hard from coast or stop. im planning on letting it break-in b4 worrying but i am slightly concerned that this car has been sitting on a lot for 2 years and the 175 miles tells me it probably never got "fresh gas". should i be concerned? any ideas otherwise? thanks.
  • ckonnickckonnick Posts: 5
    has anyone had any experience with they seem to have good prices.
  • bj02176bj02176 Posts: 115
    It will not improve, mine did that on a regular basis until I traded it at 6000 miles or so, also had this problem on 1999 Passat,so you are in good company.
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    She has a 94LX V6 purchased new and has 21,000 miles on the odometer. (no kidding, is that about 250 miles a month?) It's never been in the shop for anything but oil changes. It is clean as a whistle, no dents or dings, the paint looks good and it drives great. In the last month she's had two episodes where the car would not start (after sitting a while), then, later would start. I drove it yesterday. She was sure her son could figure it I punched the spunky little V6 into passing gear on the freeway, it responsed perfectly, but when it shifted back into overdrive the engine went dead. I put it in neutral and tried to restart. It would not. Pulled off the road, put it in park, shut everything off, and then hit the starter. Started right back up and couldn't get it to do it again. Somewhere back in this thread I read "Potential issues (with the 93-94 626) includes ....... possible thermal overload in the ignition module (if it dies at high speed and then starts right up after a few minutes, you've got it)." Looks like a duck, sounds like a duck, but is it a duck? Would this relate to a no-start issue as well? She took it to her local garage when the no-start thing happened, and they could not find anything.
  • matcheckmatcheck Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Mazda 626 4cyl. Lately, it's been stalling at stops, due to low idle. It hesitates a bit, then shudders, then dies. I have 131,000 miles on it, and don't want to sink a bunch of money into it. However, I would like to buy some time to find a new car, if that's what I need...anyone have any idea what could be wrong with the car? Appreciate any thoughts, Thanks!
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Posts: 183
    Costs about $100.00. How long since last tuneup?

    Engine should last much longer if you have taken care of it.
  • matcheckmatcheck Posts: 2
    At least I PAID for one....I repalced the fuel filter thinking that me be part of the problem, and it looked pretty old. Also replaced plugs and plug wires....the plugs looked fine, not corroded or otherwise. I'll have the fuel injectors cleaned and see if that does the trick, Thanks!
  • The weird thing about that ignition-module issue is that it sets no codes. I haven't heard any reports of this being related to a cold-start issue, but it fits the profile otherwise, and as the old country song says, "If the phone don't ring, it's me."
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    dealer replace the distributor.....I didn't even know cars still had a distributor.....we shall see but he assured me it would cause both the stalling when driving 55+ and the no start problem. All things considered and even though the car has only 21k miles, it has been virtually perfect since Jan of '94. Only in the last year have I noticed it showing it's age. My thought, mom has gotten her use outta this car and it's time for a new one. Any thoughts on the new ones? She loves her eight-years-of-trouble-free-driving Mazda and would do another.
  • Well, among other things, they got rid of the distributor, they've stretched the wheelbase a smidgen, they abandoned the hydraulic valve-lash adjusters, 15-inch wheels are now the norm (and 16-inchers the option), and the cupholders are no longer a joke. There were also a couple of nonimprovements: the below-the-steering-wheel vent has been deleted, and there's no longer enough room on the left side of the footwell for a proper dead pedal. Most of these changes were implemented for the 1998 model year.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    There are a lot of improvements when the 2003 models come out. Among them they are getting back to a 2.3 liter engine with a fair amount of new horsepower.

    If you want to increase power and keep the engine running smooth, have a machine clean your fuel injectors.
  • wait777wait777 Posts: 2
    To really resolve this problem you have replace the IAC valve. My local mazda dealer did for $600/. My 95 626 has 96,000 miles and I recently had it in for a complete tune-up,replace tires etc., Total bill was 1200 dollars not including the replacement for the IAC valve.(Talk about hurting!). The dealer had the car overnight and gave me a 99 Camry as a loaner. Man what a difference!!!After driving a 626, the Camry feels like a dream in every respect. Even the maintainence cost is low. Till date I have spent $9000 in maintaininng/fixing this car. My 626 has been through every problem I have read so far in this board.Replaced transmission twice by the way.
    I am only hanging on to this junk since it is paid off. However I think it is time to cut my losses. The only thing these cars have going for them are the looks. Really sharp lookin.Other than that - a real piece of cr***. Never judge a book by it's cover. Toyota here I come!!
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