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The thing is, the CD4E, for which everyone reviles Ford, wasn't designed for the 626 in the first place - it was first used in the '93 Ford Mondeo, a European model, from which the '95 Ford Contour/Mercury Mystique twins were derived. How it got into the 626 and its sister ships is something neither Ford nor Mazda is explaining.
There is a 1995 Mazda 626, with 89k miles and everything else seems OK. I know nothing about cars, but I was told that there is some serious problem with 626( since 1994). Is it true?
If anybody could give some help, I will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
If you haven't already, you can read through the posts here in this topic to get a sense of what Town Hall 626 owners' maintenance and repair issues have been.
Generally, the right place to look for buying advice is in Sedans or Smart Shopper. You can use the Topic Search feature on the left side of the page to find relevant topics.
Good luck and again, welcome.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Try using the Topic Search feature on the left side of the page for 626 - look for topics in our Sedans conference and check them out. You may find an entirely different perspective.
Good luck.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
my '86 Mazda 626 GT Turbo 4cyl with 223,500 miles.
They are a little noisy but not too bad and I
would like to take some preventative measures.
Actually, I want my husband to do it :-)
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Just to kinda let people know. I bought the car in January and again, it has over 253,000 miles on it. So far, all we've done is tune it up, change the oil and the fuel filter (fuel filter appeared to be original) and it runs like a champ. I've never had any problems with it. It's a 5 speed manual transmission and it runs like it's got hardly any miles on it at all. I'm also wondering if anyone has any idea how long this thing could go! I only paid $1600 for it so I think I'm really getting my money's worth.
Anyway, feedback on the valves would be appreciated.
Quinna
Thanks George gjmp@prodigy.net
Again the car is a 1993 mazda MX-6LS V6 Automatic
Thanks for any help anyone can give me.
George gjmp@prodigy.net
If you shift the thing manually, from "1" to "2" ("2" will actually get you into third) and then to "Drive", you're bypassing all the shift solenoids while you're in the lower ranges. This would suggest that there's a flaky solenoid - but which one? Only one of them is energized for both first and second gear, and that's the 2-3 solenoid. (If the HOLD light were flashing and a code 61 were set, that would ice the deal.)
Still, it may not be the transmission at all, since flooring it seems to bypass all your problems. Have you checked the engine mounts? If there's some slight difference in alignment between where the engine is sitting and what the shift lever is trying to say, and it goes away because the engine has just altered its position a couple of millimeters due to high revs - well, let's say I'd look into this possibility before I started taking the transmission apart.
If you're starting off in D, you begin in second for just a moment, after which you stay in third; this, for me, is ideal for negotiating winter messes, since I don't have to worry that a sudden shift (in either direction) is going to spin me into a ditch. No substitute for a stick, or even a good manumatic (which Mazda sorely needs, if only for the Millenia), but a nice thing to have.
Another thing I think I figured out over the last few days, is that the car (when driving in D - normally) after coming to a complete stop does not shift to 1st gear. I believe it is starting in 2nd gear and as I accelerate a little the car vibrates because it is trying to get out of second and into 1st & eventually does after a few seconds. When the car shifts to second after that I get some vibration there also. After that it runs fine.
When I floor the car it takes off in first and runs & shifts great. Is my mashing the accelerator to the floor putting the car into first because of the high RPMs?
When I have the gear selector in D and push the hold button to take off from a start, the car starts in 2nd gear like it should. Then when it gets to about 2250 RPMs it vibrates & shifts to 3rd gear (it seems like it shifts to 3rd gear prematurely).
Also the hold button does not flash at all. The only time it comes on is when it is supposed to, when I activate it.
Okay. I got used to all that and then it really started getting strange. Now if I'm running the AC, or have the lights or rear defrost on it sputters when I give it the gas from a dead stop. Sometimes it seems to cough when I'm not at a dead stop. I took it to the dealer and they said there was nothing wrong; no error codes, nothing. They just told me to run 89 octane. Of course, when I tried to demonstrate to the mechanic, the little SOB (the car, that is) wouldn't do it. As soon as he got out and I was on my way, it was back to the rodeo.
Any similar experiences and/or remedies?
Thanks.
b
If you've come to a rolling stop, starting up again will usually be in second unless you do, in fact, mash the pedal. If you're stopped completely, the mechanism is supposed to start back up in first.
Screwy torque converter, maybe? Something's resonating at 2200 rpm that ought not to be....
The 2.0 is really not enough engine for a car this size, and the gearing is rather tall, though the 626 weighs quite a bit less than most of its competitors, which somewhat offsets the horsepower deficit, and by '98 Mazda had figured out that buyers of the four-cylinder with the automatic really weren't looking for a torque peak way up at 4500 rpm. (I have redlined one of these engines a couple of times, and it seems to me that above 5500 rpm or so, it mostly processes gasoline into noise.)
That's the problem when in D without the hold button on, after a complete stop the car is starting off in 2nd gear vibrates a bit like it is trying to shift to 1st does shift to 1st and then shifts to 2nd with a some vibration at times.
Any other help before I head to the mechanic?
Thanks,
George (geo768)
It doesn't like it when I back off the gas just after it's shifted, but other than that...it's wonderful! Turn O/D off and it can be downright peppy, especially if you take advantage of the fact that you can crank up to 65mph in "2" before putting the transmission in "D."
Yeah, 0-60 times are pretty lousy, but the Bose stereo is awesome, EVERYTHING still works (had to replace a headlight bulb the other day), short of regular maintenance. I have 67,000 miles and must turn my sweet babu back in, come February. If my residual weren't so high, I'd suggest one of you guys buy it!
Mind you...I NEVER get serviced at the dealer. I ALWAYS stick with the car and make sure it gets done right. I was VERY gentle during the first 4000 miles. Synthetic oil also helps (Mobil 1). ALWAYS wait until the temp. gauge begins to move upward before putting the transmission in drive.
By the way, if gas is as expensive for you as it is here... $1.89 for reg., $2.09 for premium, the 10% surcharge for premium is worth paying for the extra mileage and performance you get...
Still idles nice and smooth. This baby loves it when I "drive it like I stole it."
Are the SP 5000 a Bridgstone tire?
genuine Mazda parts? I use www.irontoad.com for my
other car but they unfortunately do not carry Mazda OEM parts and www.carparts.com / www.wrenchhead.com are too generic. I need a new antenna mast and a power door lock timer/relay. Have the part numbers but need a source. Help...
By the way, I have a 90' 626-LX with 86K that runs
and looks like a jewel. It has been a wonderful (if not "plain-Jane") family vehicle for 10+ years. None of the mechanical problems that seem so common on the later year models. Now if I can only get the door jamb power antenna to stop breaking and the power door locks to work, again...
Sometimes it sticks when I first start the car. I
have to give it a good push to get it past the sticking point. I was just wondering if anyone could help me out!!!
1) throttle cable or linkage in need of lubrication / cleaning
2) throttle body dirty, with deposits causing the throttle plate to stick
Regardless, anything causing problems with proper movement of the gas pedal needs to be addressed immediately....
Good luck!
lane into the second lane too. I wouldn't have enough distance to do so without hitting that car, so I had to jerked my car back to the first lane. I had my foot on the break since I was changing lane. When I jerked back to the first lane, my car skidded a bit, then tt went totally out of control. It sent my car 90 degrees _ACROSS_ the hightway, aiming toward the car that was in the fourth lane! At the last moment, I let go of the break, and that sent my car another 90 degrees (without hitting anything), going parrell
with the car on the fourth lane! I was facing the opposite direction of the traffic for a second or two before my car decided to swing back in place with the rest of the traffic. Was it my speed that caused the car to go out of control or was there something wrong with my car? I got my breaks checked after the incident. The result was normal. Is there anything else I should check?
185K. It runs OK except idle speed fluctuation in
cold weather. The idle speed fluctuates between
1500 and 2000 rpm when the weather temperature
below mid 40F. I cleaned throttle, replaced PCV
valve, distributor, wires and plugs. It's still
there. Is there anyone who has such experience
and knows what kind problem it may be, temp.
sensor, idle control valve, or .... Thanks.
Just want someone expert here to tell me if the price is acceptable.
Thanks a lot.
know if this is really true?? I am thinking of getting a 97 or 98 soon . Thanks
Having no spare money on hand to fix my Mazda ES V6 so I towed my car back home today. I had a test for luck and it's so magic that it moved again fluently both forward and backward. So I think it was sure not the problem of torque converter and the dealer lied to me.
OTOH, was the problem simply because it ran out of transmission fluid yesterday? Yesterday the dealer confirmed me that there was only a little tranny fluid and they poured in a lot. But I remember right after they added fluid the car also didn't move.
Would like to learn from experts here if it's safe to drive my car again on the road.
The major Ford component in the 626 is the CD4E automatic, which wasn't used in the six-cylinder cars in those years.
WINDOWPHOBE-Thanks. Any other tidbits you may like to share???
(After '92, they went to a single reservoir for both brake and clutch - I think.)
I have had this 94 626 ES V6 since it was new. It now has about 31,000 miles. Here is the maintenance that it required beyond the 15,000 and 30,000 mile dealer check-up and regular oil changes. In 1999, it had a leaking oil pressure sending unit and it was replaced. This week was the rough idle and the spark plug wires. In total, the cost for these two items was about $275. That is $275 over 31,000 miles and six years. The 15,000 and 30,000 check-ups were $300 and $450. I did relace two batteries. One was normal use and the ohter one was because I left the lights on for a day. The rest is oil changes.
2 4 handle
1 3
Would someone please tell me I should add fluid to which level?
Thanks in advance.