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I'm just trying to get an idea of what the problem is so I don't get fleeced. I'm just nervous since I moved too far away to take my car to my old mechanic... he's slow, but he's honest, frugal, and always does the job right. :-)
The problem is the A/C, it worked ok last year, but this summer it's blowing hot air. I put some more r-134 in it and it worked somewhat for a day, then back to hot air the next. The mechanic who checked it said he was 85% sure it was the Expansion valve on the Evaporator core. The entire core with new valve is only $250, but labor is $800! I want to replace the valve or core myself, but I'm not sure how to do it. I got the Hayne's manual and it doesn't look too difficult. Any suggestions?
Also, could it be a problem other than the expansion valve or evap. core?
Please help.
Do you have any idea how much it would cost to have a mechanic evacuate and clean the system before I do the work?
btw...thanks for the input...I really appreciate it.
Also, is it sufficient just to empty the high-pressure side until there appears to be nothing more coming out? Seems to me that this would indicate that it's empty.
I'd guess a shop might charge you an hour's time to do that.
Don't know if you have had yours fixed or not, but here is what I had replaced on mine that completely fixed the problems:
Spark Plugs - They had fallen apart inside the engine
Spark Plug Wires - Whatever brand was on there. NGK or Denzo or something
Rotor Button
Distributor cap
PCV valve
Fuel Filter - Took an hour to take the engine apart to get to the stupid thing
Air Filter
Adjusted response time and Idle screw
Runs great now with all power restored. I also had my fuel injection system flushed which really made a big difference in performance. Hope this helps
I flush out my CD4E every 15k-20k miles.
i have a 1991 lx 626 stick shift.it has 117000 miles on it.i recently replaced clutch.it accelerates fine,but on fifth gear it hits 3000 rpm and it is only going at 70 mhp.
any ideas
thanks
A local mechanic recently put brakes on my 2001 626, v6 2.5, 35,000 miles. After a while they started to squeak a lot, so I took them apart to put some anti-squeal on the backs of the pads. When I removed the pads, I found that the dust seals on the calipers were torn. It looks like the shim on the back of the pad sliced through the piston dust cover. Rather than take it back (wasn't crazy about the mechanic to begin with), I picked up a caliper rebuild kit from Mazda.
The calipers work fine, but I wanted to replace the dust boots on them. Can I do this without having to remove the piston? I was hoping to just pull the old one off and put the new one in place.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
I seem to have a problem with my 2.0 standard tans. 94 MX6. The idle speed is pretty low around 600 or 500 rpm sometimes. if it happens to be at 700 rpm (usually after driving for a bit) it would drop down to about 550 when i apply the brakes or the clutch, with a double effect if i press both at the same time.
thanks for your input!
He had a condenser from a junk yard put in and now the compressor has smoke coming out so the mechanic told him to bring to dealer. He can't afford that.
Anybody have technical info to link to regarding the AC for this car? Any help will be appreciated. I think it's a 4 cylinder engine.
Thanks,
Gary
So she took it to get a retro fitting cause its a R12, so she got the fitting went to an auto parts store to put freon it after she did now there no air blowing at all.......
Can someone help fix this problem please........
Can anyone help? Does it mean a replacement fan? If so, how easy a task is it to do?
Many thanks
Just started having problems yesterday. Put the car in D from a standing stop when I hit the gas, the engine revs but goes nowhere, likes its in neutral. It does take off, albeit a bit sluggish if I turn the OD off. At higher speeds/RPM's, it seems fine. If worse comes to worse, I will shift right into 2 and it will take off.
What say ye - bad torque converter? Tranny fluid is a little dirty, but full......
do you have a diagram? or even a rough drawing.
its definitely not the fan then. cheers.
I don't think I will be worrying about mine for too much longer. I rear ended an 02 Mazda Protege yesterday and it completely decimated my front end. The protege only made it out with minor scuff marks. Don't think I'll be getting my baby fixed after this. I love you 626...RIP
Good Luck I had the book for it but cant find it
1994 Mazda Chronos 626 4 cyl automatic
When I come to a stop sign the RPM goes from idle to Zero after a few seconds.
I started my car this morning and it immediately went down to Zero .
I have to keep reving it to keep it going .
Idles fine
Press the gas very lightly and it's fine
Press the gas to accelerate normally and engine bogs and sounds like misfiring
I recently replaced the entire exhaust system and the problem has worsen since.
Anyone with an answer to this similar problem? Now I know I am not the only one.
WHAT TO DO ?? WHAT WIRE DISCONNECT ??? TO STOP THIS SOUND ?? JANUS
You will need a 10mm wrench, screwdriver + pattern, clip remover-pliers, and a can of Carb cleaner or Brake cleaner (brake is more powerful...use wisely.) open your hood and find the little "Ford" logo just passed the air filter box. Before you do anything--> disconnect the neg (-) battery terminal.
The problem with mine was a dirty, dirty MAF
1. Release the air filter box clamps (like you are looking inside at the air filter).
2. Disconnect the MAF (Ford thingy) wires [hold the clip in underneath and pull from the connector)
3. Disconnect the "other thing" that plugs into the air filter box [pull the two clips on the side away from the connector and pull connector out)
4. Now, your air box and MAF are freer to move, so use a screwdriver to release the clamp on the top side of the MAF to remove both the MAF and the box as one piece (it makes it easier to take apart like this).
5. Be very careful on this step! ... Use your 10mm wrench to remove the 4 bolts that hold the aluminum housing to the air box, keep the gasket.
6. Now you have your MAF removed. As you may notice there is a metal screen, you may or may not remove this, it's up to you. I did. You will need the clip removers to remove it, as you can see.
7.) Looking through the screen you will notice a little hole on the top side; it's probably black and covered in soot. Bingo, that's the problem.
8.) Take your Carb cleaner or Brake cleaner, and spray inside the whole aluminum housing, just to clean it out. DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING WITH A CLOTH OR Q-TIP, OR FINGERS DO NOT TOUCH IT, THESE ARE VERY SENSITIVE SENSORS. Spray inside the black hole... Spray ONLY...DO NOT TOUCH.... just a few squirts will do. You must not use anything other than an alcohol-based cleaner as this is an Electronic component area. When you are done spraying, the little hole should be sparkling clean, and you will notice inside there are shiny bright little wires (2 I believe).
9. Let the cleaner evaporate for 30 mins (just to be safe)
10. Re-assemble and install your part.
If this works for you, congratulations, I know the feeling.
I checked for leaks and can't seem to find any, and the compressor is definitely working so I'm stumped.
Any ideas what could be wrong?
Thanks.
Around 30K miles it started blowing hot intermittently. After replacing the receiver/dryer and the expansion valve under warranty, it still did fail intermittently until it finally quit for good. Turns out my coolant overflow tank leaked slowly and hot coolant got into the A/C compressor clutch harness connector which sits directly under the coolant bottle. Replacing the leaky bottle and cleaning the connector fixed the problem.
The system worked great until about 100K miles when it suddenly quit. This time it was only the A/C relay (about $ 25 from Mazda). I diagnosed and fixed the latter problem myself.
Don't be so sure that your compressor is working. Make sure the compressor clutch is engaging. You can see that by watching the clutch rotate as an assembly (when A/C is off, the A/C clutch sits stationary, and only the pulley rotates.
If your A/C compressor/clutch is working properly, and the system pressure is correct, then I would check the A/C expansion valve for blockage.
I do notice a slight loss of coolant sometimes, usually about 5-10 ounces a month, probably overflow loss so I'll check that first.
Thanks for explaining how to check the compressor clutch.
BTW, I noticed a sound coming from the evaporator/expansion valve area under the dash after I had it working again. At first, it was a slight "whoosh" or "hiss" sound every now and then, like gas flowing through a valve (logically) but after it started blowing hot again, the sound was more consistent. Any idea what it was? Or maybe related to my new prob.
Thanks again for your thoughts, I'll check those out and get back to ya.
B
How do I unclog the expansion valve if it is indeed clogged?
Do I just run water through it, or poke it with a screwdriver?
I don't want to mess it up.
Thanks again.
B
Thanks for your help.
Thanks
ruth