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I have a 2000 4cyl auto with 125,000 miles on the clock. Has run faultless up to now. Auto trans is jerking when put into drive or reverse, harsh change from 1st to 2nd gear but fine into m3rd or 4th. Sometimes will not go into 4th at all. The rest of the time it goes into 4th but the "lock" light is on all the time. Checked out by one trans specialist who said the gearbox needed a rebuild - $2,500. Any one out there have any experience of this problem and is it terminal for the gearbox?
cheers Rory
let me know ASAP - he is away at college and kind of scared.
let me know ASAP - he is away at college and kind of scared.
I would be worried too if the timing belt had over 100k on it. When I bought my 2000 626 in January 2006 with 84k on it and no record of the 60k service being done, I made the dealer toss that into the deal, including the timing belt replacement.
Yes I did pull a carfax report on the car but could find no service records..It had 92K on it when I bought it and it did appear to be very well cared for..new belts ,hoses ect.It uses no oil..
I'm getting a lot of conflicting information on that 2 liter motor..Some say it is an interference engine and some say it isn't..One guy replaced his belt at 175K and said the old belt looked new..So I'm going to take my chances and run it..I'm planning to get rid of it next spring anyway.Although it's been a pretty good car it's underpowered and noisy...Incidentally I solved the problem of the check engine light coming on and then going back off again after a few days by changing the trans. fld. and putting in Mobil 1 synthetic..Apparently the tranny was overheating causing the check engine light to come on..That's what the code said ...Any way , thanks for your help.. :lemon:
Transmission cooling is generally marginal on these cars; they're much happier with an aftermarket cooler plumbed into the lines.
Since my last post I have done more research and , yes the 2,0 is not an interference engine so I intend to just run the car until I can get rid of it..Not going to put anything into it if I don't have to...Although it has been a pretty good car it is still a pontential disaster..Now the rear drivers side door won't unlock and I have a slight vibration around 45 mph..I replaced both axels last year and new tires..The tires are wearing perfectly and there is no sign of unbalance or out of alignment..Although the tranny appears to be working well I suspect the vibration may be transmission related..??? I can feel it but no one else seems to be able to sense it..It seems to disappear around 55 ~ 60 and then when I let off the gas and re-accelerate there is a roughness there ..Slight~ almost like it was a slightly leaky exhaust...Frustrating..!!!
Also, I had a problem with the original radiator at around 200k miles mark. It was seeping coolant right through the upper neck, but the cracks were microscopic. However, I was losing coolant at the rate of about 1 quart a week. I installed a new radiator, and never had this problem again. The car has 276, 000 miles on it now.
No check engine light, when it gets warm it stumbles, sometimes really bad and sometimes not as bad, yet under full accelleration it does't stumble and runs out. When it's cold it acts normal. Any idea's? I am going to replace the fuel filter but to me that shouldnt be the problem. Spark plug fouled? Sensor??
Thanks in advance!!
If the sound from the back end you hear is ticka-ticka-ticka-ticka-ticka and it occurs sporadically for only about the first five minutes - it's some valve related to the fuel/vapor ... something. There's a TSB for that. They'll install a rubber mount. If it's more of a clunk-a-lunk over bumps - mine does that too - don't know what it is, maybe brake pads.
Yes, the coolant reservoir gets holes in it, I'm on my third one (also a 1998). As for overheating - make sure that the pressure cap is on the *reservoir*, not on the engine (I am used to seeing the other way around).
There's also a TSB for hesitation - they'll reprogram the fuel delivery for that.
Contemplate falling white crystalline matter!!!!
I always tend to pay cash for my cars--no notes/loans/comp Insurance, etc.
I have put about $10,000 into these 2 cars (including their purchase) over a decade.
Includes 2 pretty involved accidents for the '95 -a new clutch (complete) and a new tranny.
I need to put another $3000-$4000 in them for 2012, to keep in good shape. (Struts, Alignment, windshield, tires, body work, timing belt & tensioner, etc, ..and water pump.
( I'm definitely in the --Water Pump Better done at Timing belt replacement -camp)
Thus about 12,000/10 = $1200 a year ( for 2 cars) . Not bad.
Even at $16,000/11 yrs= $1450 a year (2 cars) My MD Brother (ie. CLICK of the Magliozza Bros.) sez "Buy new" ( Yes,... he of the ..I'll never buy a VW again! (He bought New).) I am of the other view--CLACK.
For example--"What would a $17,000 NEW CAR in 2002 be worth today"?? (And how much would I really have spent on it over 10 years ?)
The 1995 626 came home from it's Midwest college 2 weeks ago. ( My College Senior son got the 2003 Passat hand me down-via the MD Uncle--his former personal Money Pit car )
The 1997 626 heads to the same college this coming Fall with the next Freshman student.
Mostly, the 626's sit in Dorm parking lots/ Apt complexes and commute a few miles to school, and back to home occasionally. (For Repairs, cash, food, and Laundry--usually)
About 10,000 total miles each year.
Insurance is zilch (no comprehensive carried), as are taxes, Plates, etc.
The 626's have been well maintained (a good reasonable private mechanic). Both get 26/35 + MPG. Both still drive well. (New struts, etc will improve this)
Due to job changes and the economy, I don't travel as much. Only drive 10k-18k a year. (2011 IRS guideline is 50 cents /mile) I also have more time to tinker, change oil myself, new brake shoes, rotate tires, talk cars with the neighbor, etc.
I also like driving these damnable cheap, paid for, gas -sipping, Zippy little cars 5-speed cars!
The sun roof in the 97 is great!
My daily driver is a V-6 Chrysler LHS. (130K miles) Good shape. I Like the car. 18-28 MPG. A cruiser! I'm ready to park the LHS ....and drive the '95 626.
My Office has a tree lined (sap) , asphalt (hot) parking lot where my car sits in the sun/ snow /thunderstorms/ etc--most of 2-4 days a week. The other day(s) I spend on the road.
My Attorney peers tend to drive more expensive, shiny cars-- but I'm more like a hobbit, " filling the corners of my 'round stomach".
I make money most years from billing my mileage ---to easily cover the cost (or via deductions) of the two Mazda's and the LHS.
The "Click & Clack" acid question is thus: Do you put money into "Older cars" (a/k/a the Money Pit ) to keep them going...or would you prefer to buy a GERMAN Passat with a bad oil pump, sludge, engine failures, re-calls, $$$$ for re-built engines, High Insurance, Loans, etc ??
In other words---Are Mazda owners just "tinker" type people (Hobbits) who have a frugal personality... and the car is just a logical extension of this quirk of personality ???
I have been struck by the generosity of the people on these forums--especially those who slap wrenches for a living. They give away tips and advice more freely ....than Old Pete Seeger, gave away songs.
Impressive bunch of folks, you are !
Philosophical comments are welcomed.!
Also, you should use premium gas in this car. It gets much better mileage (10% better than with 87 octane) and performs better.
Recently my 2002 Mazda had to go the shop for repairs. It has over 150 miles, so I'm used to taking it in once a year for something.
Over the past year there has been an increasing squeal coming from the engine and I knew something (compressor/water pump/steering pump) was about to go...well it finally did and the belt along with it.
I took it to a local repair shop and they told me that the timing belt and water pump needed to be replaced, so I consented.
After the repairs, it ran great for two days and then I began to hear a very low rattle/tapping noise that incrementally got worse over about a two period. I called the shop, took it back, they said that most likely the water pump was bad out of the box...after investigation it was not bad...then they said it was the tensioner...they replaced that and the problem actually got worse.
Now, while idling it just has a loud clicking/knocking noise that seems to come from either the power steering pump or some other place directly in front of the engine. Keep in mind, it runs fine, just makes noise.
When I took it back today and complained about it, their 27 year veteran mechanic said he had never heard the noise before but would tear it down and make it right.
Does anyone have a similar experience...or can you shed some light on the nature of the problem?
Extremely frustrated,
Shazzard
Its been a long trouble free time since my last post here. My wifes 94 626 LXA ATX Air Bag started lighting up last night. It flashes then stops then flashes again. Never stays on solidly.
Car has 88K miles on it and is in Athens Greece.
Have the Haynes manual for mazda 626 and Mx 6 and Ford Probe and it shows location of sensor on the tranny tunnel on 95 and later cars, and under the dashborad on earlier models.
Says not to touch the SRS system bring to a professional. Not going to find one here. Any ideas ?
Thanks
Peter
Hi Guys,
Its been a long trouble free time since my last post here. My wifes 94 626 LXA ATX Air Bag started lighting up last night. It flashes then stops then flashes again. Never stays on solidly.
Car has 88K miles on it and is in Athens Greece.
I cleared the codes with the battery disconnect step on brake pedal for 10 seconds trick.
Brought it to a Mazda guy who tried to run diagnostics on it and it showed no codes.
It was not flashing when I brought it and now its flashing like crazy He asked me if the I4 is a FS V or FS1 I did not know the answer. The 93 is a Ford EEC IV ignition so I dont think he will ever get any codes.
Unless the airbags are different from the OBD 1 system the only way I ever got codes in 10 years is the OBD1 jumping wire, and reading check engine light pulses
Any ideas ?
Does anyone know what the 1993 626 LXA I 4 engine is . Here is Vin if that will help
1YVGE22C2 R5204361
He said when light flashes that means airbag will not open. I am afraid it will open when wife is driving it . Is he correct ?
Thanks
Your O2 sensors need to be changed. You should only have two
Do you have white smoke coming out of your tailpipe?
It's your slave cylinder. That happened to me. My bf replaced the slave cylinder. Well I believe one or two days later it ripped through that rubber. So he made two broke become a whole and I haven't had that issue again.