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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    Call back the five people that called you on your ad and try to sell the darn thing now! Why put off tomorrow what you can do today? Avoid the potential inevitable! What if that tranny goes out within the next three months? What if something else goes out that may cost you more than its worth to fix?

    One thing I've learned about cars is to never fall in love with them. Think of all the millions of cars out there that are much better and more reliable than your 94 626. Interestingly enough, you would probably even "love" them more if you had the opportunity to own them.

    Remember, love is blind.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,640
    Think of all the other cars out there that you could own that aren't near as fun to drive!

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Posts: 202
    Does the smell occur all the time, or only when the system is set in "re-circulate" mode. I have a '97 626, V-6. When I set the A/C in re-circulate, their is a bit of a smell, kind of like a damp or moldy smell. When I change to fresh air, the smell goes away.

    I'm not sure what the cause is, just wondering if your situation is similar.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Never seen this offered, even as an option.

    The inside of the A/C system can harbor mold and mildew and other nasty things; after all, it can get cold and damp in there. :)

    You might spritz some Lysol through the exterior vents (under the wipers) while the system is running (not in recirc mode!) and get it flowing through the system. One application is seldom enough, but you gotta start somewhere.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Desire, however, doesn't care one way or another. :)
  • z88z88 Posts: 5
    Thanks all for your comments! This smell does not occur all the times. Mold and mildew in the system could be the problem. I will try Windowphobe's suggestion to see how it works.

  • Hi guys:
    Finally I have made up my mind...I am selling it off and buying a new Accord Ex V6.
    It was a difficult decision (financially) but what the heck...I am atleast gonna use this Accord for the next 10 years...
    I have already placed an advertisement in the local newspaper but I have put a price tag of 4800$ on it...And now I have realized that its too high...I am gonna call the newspaper guys and change this 4800$ to 4300$ ??? What do u guys suggest ??? The Edmund's Value is 3800$ for private party and 3300$ for a trade-in.
    Will I get any calls for it ???

  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    GBROZEN: You're absolutely right. The 626 is a great handling car and is very fun to drive. But nonetheless, it's still considered a problematic car that's expensive to fix (the parts are especially expensive compared to other imports). I'd rather have a less fun car to drive that's more reliable and less expensive to repair.

    HARRY_MAZDA626: Wise decision. The Honda Accord equipped with a V6 is 1BADMF! And without a doubt, will be much more fun to drive than your 4-cylinder 626. BTW, if you want to "quick-sell" your Mazda, price it at or below KBB.COM's trade-in value. You'll get a lot more interested parties to call. Good-luck to you and keep us posted.
  • windwingwindwing Posts: 3
    I bought a 93 Mazda 626 LX two weeks ago and sometimes I heard some noise from the steering wheel when I steered. Could it because I hit the curb once? what can I do? Is it an costly problem?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,640
    Hmmm... don't know where you got the idea that other import parts are cheaper. Let's take, for example, a '99 Camry V6 and compare it to a '99 Mazda V6. I checked out a few items that you might need to replace in the time you would own one of these cars on Here is what I found.


    4 new rotors-------------$232----------$247
    Water pump---------------$72.60--------$73.88

    so far, so good. Both are comparable. How about some bigger jobs.

    Clutch Set----------------$123----------$222
    Brake Master Cylinder
    (both w/ antilocks and
    no traction control)-------$78----------$202

    I picked Toyota because, obviously, that is what Harry wants to buy. I was going to throw in a Honda comparison for the heck of it, but I couldn't find those parts on Carparts for an Accord V6. Strange. I was going to use Napa for the comparison, but their website wasn't working when I decided to look.

    Anyway, I was curious when you said that, so I looked it up. I always thought that my Mazda was relatively cheap to buy parts for - I'm glad to see I'm not crazy.

    I'm not going to argue that one might need to be fixed more over the other. I really think that has a lot more to do with the owner than the car when it comes to comparing 2 cars like this. I'm just comparing parts here - nothing else.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Some of these racks were noisy at birth, but it may just be a CV joint dying. Next time you have this car up on a rack, take a peek at the CV boots. If they're torn or cracked, it's time. Rebuilt axles are fairly cheap.
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    Parts are more expensive on Mazdas in general because many of the parts are dealer-only items and that aftermarket parts are not available.

    Granted, if you compare genuine OE parts, Toyota and Honda may be more expensive than Mazda parts. However, Toyota and Honda outsell Mazdas by almost twice as much, and therefore, many of their parts are available in the aftermarket because of the demand, thus making the part much less expensive than dealer parts.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Toyota and Honda sales exceed Mazda sales by quite a bit more than a mere factor of two, at least in the US; Camry or Accord alone outsell the entire Mazda line.

    Of course, taken to its logical extension, this is a great argument for a Chevy.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,640
    Those comparisons ARE aftermarket.

    I'm sure if I REALLY got into it and needed to find a new set of pistons or something extreme like that for my Mazda, then I'd have a tough time, but as it is, I haven't had any trouble finding ANY parts that I actually need for Mazda in the aftermarket.

    You have to remember one thing, though. Honda, for example, sells many many more cars than Mazda, HOWEVER, each one of their cars has a different engine. Mazda engines are used in several different platforms, therefore, their parts are more interchangeable. So, to compare, you'd have to take all Accords with 6-cyl engine sales (which is, obviously, the minority in all Accord sales) and compare that to 626 + MPV + Millenia with their sixes. If you look at the 4-cyl, then you have to add in the Proteges and the Ford Focus and Escape (not sure on those, but the engine specs seem to support it).

    I don't know what those totals come to, and I wouldn't be surprised if Civic sales still outperformed all of those 2 liter Mazda engine sales, but I DO think that there would be enough of the latter to justify aftermarket replacement parts support (and the availability I'm finding justifies that statment).

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Posts: 202
    The MPV does not share the 626 V-6. And Millenia use two different V-6's, the non-Miller Cycle (same as 626) and the Miller Cycle, which is not shared.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,640
    of course I wasn't referring to the supercharged Millenia S.

    You mean to tell me the MPV 2.5 DOHC V6 is different than the 626 DOHC 2.5 V6?? Are you sure about that? I'm just going by the specs and assuming. I know somebody will correct me. But, seems to me like that would be an incredible waste of money to produce 2 different engines that have virtually the same power output and same configuration.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Posts: 202
    The 2.5 V-6 in the MPV is based on the Ford Duratec that was found in the Contour. Not the same as the 626 motor....
  • markz2kmarkz2k Posts: 112
    I had a '95 626 LX (4cyl + Auto) and sold it last June. Although I hadn't had any problems with it except for new plug wires a few months before I sold it, I decided not to tempt fate. The vehicle speed sensor did go wacky on me one time, back in December '98, but never did it again after that one day. Besides, I wanted more power! So, I sold it at 39,000 miles, and bought an Accord EXV6. I love the Accord, and have no regrets, but keep in mind the gas mileage will go down.
    For me, it went down quite a bit. I think I was getting somewhere around 22 MPG on the 626, and now I get 18-20 on the Accord. (I drive 6Mi one way to work each day, mostly stop-n-go.) I get more when I do long trips, of course.

    One suggestion when you buy the new Accord (or any car), INSIST on test-driving the one you pick out for at least 30-60 minutes (preferably by yourself) and try to find any problems now. I found an annoying rattle in mine, and didn't accept the car till it was fixed.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,640
    strange indeed. thanks for the trivia, Ian.

    I gotta ask, where did you get this info? The Mazda website is not quite as beefy as I would prefer.


    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Posts: 202
    Lots of discussion about the merits of putting a Ford Engine in a Mazda product.....

    There are slight differences listed on the Mazda site....torque and hp numbers are a little different, and I suspect bore x stroke dimensions might be different.

    Anyway, no big deal, just being my "unlikable" self. (I threw that in for godfather, or whatever his name was...LOL)
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,640
    usually don't mean anything. you'll find they vary all the time within manufacturers' product lines. Look at the 2 liter engine (going back to mazda and ford products). I don't think they have the same numbers between any 2 models. Usually, you'll find the real clincher is in the cubic centimeters (which is more commonly listed than bore and stroke). Using the mazda website, I couldn't find anything beyond torque and hp and liters. Pretty lame i think.

    hey. don't worry about it. I like knowing useless stuff like this.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Both the 2.5 engines were on the drawing boards before Ford and Mazda decided to pool some of their engine-design work (translation: Ford is having Mazda do all the small fours from now on).

    Ford's Zetec 2.0 has very similar numbers to Mazda's FS, but they have nothing otherwise in common.

    Come to think of it, the FS is Mazda's third 2.0 four, and all three had different bore/stroke configurations.
  • Help,
    My 85 626 will start like a charm but stalls as soon as you put in gear.
    Any suggestions?
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    Here's the update on the sunroof problem on my 94 626. The original motor was definitely toast and the wrecking yard motor from a 96 model worked just fine. But a much deeper and bigger problem was discovered: It seems that the cable system that runs in the sunroof on both sides is shot and it would take about five hours of labor to replace. The estimate to do the repair with parts and labor is around $700 (not including the replacement motor from the wrecking yard).

    Needless to say, I think I'm just going to live with an inoperable sunroof. Besides, I still have to replace the high pressure switch on the AC compressor at a cost of just under $400.

    I'm completely amazed and disappointed at how many problems I have encountered with this vehicle. It is the money-pit from hell and the very last Mazda I will ever own.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,640
    what exactly does "shot" mean? Do you know exactly what the problem is? How does that sunroof work? What is the design? Is it a motor that pulls cables through pulleys or what? I've never had a sunroof, so I'm looking for a little more detail. (anybody chime in here.)

    Hey, charles, what does FS stand for?

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    It's actually fairly simple - the motor does, in fact, pull cable through pulleys - but the real issue here is accessibility; it's not so hard to get to the motor, but access to the mechanisms at the far end basically requires that you remove the entire sunroof unit, hence the stiff price.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    It's not an abbreviation or an acronym or anything.

    Mazda has had basically four different series of four-cylinder engines: B, F, G and Z. The F series is basically middle-sized - the Bs (and their Z descendants) appear in 323/Protegé and the MX-5 Miata, and the Gs were used only in the bigger trucks and vans. The current designation (since 1993) is FSD, which is the F-series block with an aluminum head and DOHC. (The third-generation 626 had either the F2 or F2T, the latter denoting the turbo version.)

    For the sake of completeness, Mazda V6 engines are classified as J (90 degrees between banks) or K (60 degrees). The KLD is used in the 626 and the base Millenia. (The Miller-cycle V6 in the Millenia S is designated KJS.) The Js were last seen in the 929 and the rwd MPV.
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    More bad news with my sunroof. Because the cables are bad, it now won't shut correctly. I found this out when I was washing the car and water started dripping onto the seats. I then went to the parts store and bought some RTV silicone sealant and put it completely around the edges of the sunroof to prevent rain from coming in.

    I don't think I want to invest in either putting a brand new factory sunroof assembly (around $1000 P/L) or a wrecking yard unit (around $500 P/L) which would be too risky. However, is it possible to convert the factory unit and have a manual sunroof installed in its place? I believe that mechanical sunroofs run around $500 P/L brand new making it a much lesser expensive alternative than an electrical sunroof.

    Besides, since a sunroof "hole" already exists in the roof, wouldn't make it easier to have an aftermarket unit put in?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    It certainly wouldn't hurt to ask an installer if he has a manual aftermarket unit that fits in the existing hole.
  • acronkacronk Posts: 1
    My daughter's mazda has 190,000 mi and the engine fan quit. Any ideas as to why; cheapest way to fix it.
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