Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Make sure you know who spoke with ..their full name/ time you spoke with them / position / what the final # is ..etc.
Get your financing together....shop around, check your bank, credit union, who ever has the best rate ..etc, your credit I'm sure, is pretty Ok coming off a lease ...You may be able, to finance the truck with little or no money down ..because it does have a strong book (NADA)
And again...you shouldn't worry about the damage..When you are buying the vehicle -- Mazda lease. can care less -- I doubt the Used car Mgr at the store you will deal with, will even spend 10 seconds to look out the window...remember-- at this time, the dealer is -out of the loop- ..unless you decide even to use one of their finance sources.
I have been through this scenario a hundred times...The first store I bought in 1990 was Mazda, so relax ...If you need more help just email me.
Good luck.
Terry.
"Went to local dealer to check out the 2001 CL-S on recommendation from a friend. Great weather conditions today, sleet and freezing rain. Not bad if you want see how it handles on slick roads. Basically, it was awesome. Traction control and VSA worked well and I never lost control (or felt like it would). C-pillar looks like it may be a problem with blindspots, but a lot of cars have that problem. Came away very impressed. The thing really hauls.
The salesman, who my friend also recommended, worked up some numbers on a 42 month lease with 15,000 miles per year allowance after I told him we were looking to stay around payments of $400/mo. He said they could do it at $400/mo with a total out of pocket of $1600, which includes the following; $995 customer cash for cap reduction, $450 bank fee, $155 tax/title/plate fees. 1st month payment is made by Honda (customer loyalty from wifes' Accord lease termination). This sounds like a pretty good deal to me, and I didn't even negotiate yet. The only extra on the CL-S non-NAVI are splashguards. The spoiler at $895 seems pretty high. I'm inclined to go ahead and do it next week. Am I missing something? "
Thanks for your help.
Ken
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According to my calculations, pre-paying this lease would only save you about $140.40. I personally don't think that is is worth tying up over $8,000 for two years for this little a savings but the option is there for you if you would like.
Unfortunately, used vehicle leasing often turns out to be as expensive or even more expensive than leasing a new vehicle. This is because most manufacturers do not yet provide equivalent lease money factor support on used vehicle leases. The above lease was calculated using a money factor that is equivalent to about 3.8%. I doubt that you will be able to lease a used Miata with an interest rate that is anywhere near that low. Furthermore, by leasing a new model you are able to take advantage of the its full new vehicle warranty.
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Chad -
Call up Mazda Credit, get the Purchase Price and ask if they are willing to take a buy out offer. The damage to your vehicle is not an issue if you buy the truck. Also ask if they have special financing avaliable for people who purchase their lease vehicles.
Curt
Also, I am 100% for an extended warranty. Would that be a point to ask about with Mazda Credit also? I'd like to get at least 3 year/ 36,000 miles more on top the manufacturers 3 year/50,000. What would be best is if I could grab an WE of 6 years/75,000 just to cover the financing period and maybe a year after I've paid the loan off.
Ideas or Thoughts anyone??
Chad
Capitalize cost: 28,720
Cap cost reduction (dwn payment): 1,895
Residual: 15,225
Total depreciation: 11,598
Rate: 1.00 (is that a money factor of 0.001?)
Total monthly payments, as the dealer calculated were 322 + a 'rent' charge of 42 (the sales guy couldn't explain that one. Any ideas?) + tax for $393.
Total cost out the door is about 4,000:
bank fee of 595
security deposit 400
first month's payment 393
tax, license & doc fees of 665
down payment 1,895
Generally enjoyed my interaction at the dealer, and the car's great. They wouldn't give me a copy of this info, though; I had to manually copy it, which gives me pause on principle.
Any opinions about how good (or not) a deal this is?
Patrick
Any horror stories or successes?
Thanks,
Harry
Your friend is giving you just a little bit of incorrect information...But, It will be up to you...to get a hold of Mazda..and negotiate a better price with a regional or district Mgr from Mazda credit ( when you call.. ask specifically for one of these people and don't spend much time with the people who answer the phone ..that's how you 'will' end up back at the dealer ). And No, the price can not go up...as it stand's now - based on what you have told me, you will pay $11,300 plus any taxes and fees.
Warranty's I highly recommend.....but you can shop those around while looking for a competitive rate.
Good luck.
Terry.
What to do? What to do?
I'll keep you guys updated with the first set of numbers I get from the dealership this weekend. It wont, by any means, be the only financing choice though. I am shopping around, but going to use dealer as starting point and see what numbers they dish out.
Thanks Terry and everyone else for your insight and advice the last couple days it really cleared alot of things up for my first end of lease experience.
Chad
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My brother's girlfriend will be leasing a car soon and has narrowed her choices to the Corolla Sedan and Civic Coupe. Either way, she will be getting a 5-speed.
I see from previous posts to this board that for a 36 month/12k mile per year lease, the Civic has a residual of 61% and a money factor of .00325 through Honda.
What are the coresponding numbers for a Corolla leased through Toyota?
Thnaks.
spons
I had actually checked out Saab's site prior to visiting the dealer, but wanted some feedback or some perspective on whether their offers were that good.
I visited a second dealer tonight and the numbers I have from both are equivalent and looks to be derived from thier national deals. A money factor or .00097 or .001 (from both dealers) seems to indicate significant money factor support of the leases by Saab, so I'm curious how much room I have to negotiate.
In addition to cap cost, suggestions on others areas that might be negotiated would be apprecited.
Thanks!
Patrick
I'm thinking of buying or leasing an Audi TT Coupe 225 hp.
I read all posts since the beginning of the year and didn't see anything about it. If you've answered this before, I apologize.
Could you please tell me what the residuals and money factor are for 36/39/42-month 12k mi/year leases?
Also, I thought about it and I find it VERY hard to believe that I would drive the 12k mi. Is there any significant residual advantage in going with, say, 9k mi a year?
O.
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Audi really does not have any support on the TT right now, so if you choose to lease one through Audi Financial Services prior to March 6th, you will have to use a lease money factor of .00305 for all leases up to 4 years in length. To be honest with you, as far as unsupported money factors go, the TT's rates are pretty good. The 2001 TT 225 quattro Coupe's residual values for 36, 39, and 42 month terms with 12,000 miles per year are currently 66%, 65%, and 59% respectively. Your monthly lease payments on this car would be slightly less if you opt for the 10,000 miles per year option. The 10k residuals are 1% higher than the ones that I posted above.
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Thanks again for the info, it stirred me in a direction which I feel was best for me.
JQ3
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Thanks for the data on the TT.
Interior space may also be an issue for me.
New Jersey these days ?
Is it added to the base payment or rolled into
the gross cap. cost.
Thanks !!
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Sales tax is charged at 6% only on the depreciation, that is the actual capitalized cost (not the list price) minus the residual. It can be included in the lease payment or paid up front. It is not charged on the full lease payment.
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Is it correct for the tax to be added in the
"gross capitalized cost" number ?
Thanks again !
What is the current cost factor and residual% value for the month of March. I looking to lease a 2001 Jetta GLS 4 cylinder auto for 48 months.
My current lease is a 97 Camry who just started smoking (I think it needs new valve stem seals). I am worried that I am going to get clobbered for this. I have $495.00 disposition fee. SHould I inform them about this problem? Help me please.
Thanks.
As far as your Camry goes, you are going to have to have it inspected prior to turning it in at lease-end. Wait and see what happens at this inspection before notifying the bank that you are leasing through about any problems that you are only speculating about. They may pass your car with a clean bill of health.
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if you were still covered by the toyota warranty, you most likely wouldn't be stuck with a repair bill on a car you won't be owning shortly.
ace
Give me the current facts. If I don't get the car before the 6th - I'll rewrite. I am concerned about the fact the the VW only has 24 month warranty. It is one factor that is holding me back. Do they they really break down that often? I have never had a VW. Kind of scared. Thanks.
Thanks in advance - great list!
Terry.
My lease contract lists a Rent Charge. What is this?
$4229.81 on a $20,000 auto w/ 39 month term. Does this sound right?
Thanks,
ja
If you provide me with some specific information about your lease, I would be glad to let you know what I think of the deal that you got. Specifically, post this vehicle's full MSRP, the price that you were charged for it (if available), a detailed description of the trim level, how long you are leasing it for, and how many miles per year you are allowed to drive without penalty.
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4,229.81 divided by 39 equals $ $ 108.46
Then 108.46 divided by sum of ( residual and
adjusted cap. cost)= money rate
Then multiply money rate by 2400
The final answer is your interest rate !
Current market rate is 8.00% for people with good
credit. This rate is what most leasing companies
charge. There are below market rates offered by
auto manufacturers in some cases ( to move cars)..
Anyway, it must be right because I came up with a percentage of 6.7. I have excellent credit but doesn't that sound a bit low?
As soon as I received the bill I called Ford and was told all bills are due IMMEDIATELY and they do NOT have payment plans and I needed to pay 'now". I explained how I was told by the dealership that I could stretch this out for as long as it took (which is not fun but my only financial option). She did say though that as an incentive - Ford offered a Quick Pay and I could pay all at once - for 2,000 - if I paid immediately. (I could commit a check number and have 20 days to get it to them).
This seems like a great deal - if I can come up with the money. And I can come up with the $ - but my question is - if they were so willing to come down $600 in the course of a 3 minute phone call - is there more bargaining room?
I dont want to sound ungrateful - but I also was very unhappy with Ford all along for not offering mile bands available directly from them that I could build into my lease payment as soon as I relaized I would go over - apparently when I went back to read the fine print - I had said 12,00 a year when I signed the lease and I couldnt up it or buy bands either, unless the dealership allowed that and mine didnt, so there was some discord along the way.
Shoudl I jump at the 600 savings or shoudl I continue to negotiate - how much play is there - I could easily do 1500 do I bargain them out until we reach 1850 and then pay that???!!!!! I have a day to decide - please let me if anyoen has any expereince with this!