Hello, I just purchased a '97 4 runner and it has the roughest ride I've ever experienced. Is there anyone out there that can suggest whether it's the shocks, springs or tires. I've lowered the tire pressure to 30, but it was a minor difference. Thanks George @ Tubby7@msn.com
I experienced the "twang" today while I was in the right front passenger seat. It felt like it was at a 45 degree angle in front my feet, to the left of the right wheel. This occurred and we came to a stop and turned right.
I experience a similar jolt when the transmission is shifting around 15 mph. It appears to happen only after the vehicle has been turned off for a while. After the initial jolt it seems to shift smoothly for the duration of the ride. The service dept. could not find a problem and said that it is how they feel....I am taking it to another service dept soon.
I have a 1998 4Runner. It came with Goodyear RT/S 265/70R15 tires. For the last one year, whenever I go above 65mph, steering starts to shake. I have had 3 tire balances, 4-wheel alignment, and check-up by toyota dealers, but to no avail. The last dealer told me that there is problem with Goodyear tires, and to get either Michelin or Dunlop tires. Does anyone has any info on this?
I have a 95 Toyota 4Runner with a common problem, as I see it. The back end seems to be lower than the front end of the vehicle. What causes this situation? It is the springs or shocks? Can either one be upgraded or replaced to prevent or solve this issue? Thank You.
It seems as though the 95 and older runners were just made that way for some reason.I installed a airbag kit in my bosses 95 and solved the problem. If you notice ,the 96 and up runners do not sag in the rear.
You either have a out of round tire or someone isn't balancing them right.Oh and the alignment will not cause the vehicle to shake.I would suggest going with the michelin's if you replace the tires.....you get what you pay for believe me.
'00 SR5, 17,000 miles, vehicle shutters when braking. Needed two front rotors because they became overheated. Service says that the rear brakes have to be adjusted every 7,500 mile to prevent this from happening. It seems that the rear brakes do not self adjust, as many other vehicles do. If rear not adjusted, all the braking is done by the front brakes thus causing overheating and warping of the rotors. This seems to be a major defect to me. Waht do you think?
I have a 1996 4runner SR5 which I bought used in 1999 with about 50K miles on it. I developed brake shuddering shortly after and had the rotors replaced. Now it is happening again after about a year. The dealer says this is not unusual and won't guarantee anything. Can anybody shed any light on this problem? Braking systems should be perfected by now. What is the answer, this is an expensive fix.
erisarep - You asked if the factory security system be installed by the dealer in a 4Runner that did not come so equipped from the factory. Don't know if you ever got a response, so I'll say YES. I had it done about a month after I bought my 2000 4Runner. I was looking for a truck with it already installed, but it seems getting all the options you want in any Toyota is an unlikely proposition, at best.
When I was looking at all the option, I thought I could have body color-keyed running boards added later, but now I'm told that's not an option out here in California. Odd.
Anyway, my 4Runner came with the keyless entry remotes. Then I paid about $150.00 for the alarm system + another $150.00 to have it installed. Yikes! A friend suggested I look at third-party alarms and now I wish I had, but at the time I wanted all Toyota parts in the truck.
I used to work at a tire sales store and we dealt with customers who requested a specific tire brand for their 4Runners. Michelin and Yokohama are really the best tires you can get for your SUV if you want a smooth ride. Some customers thought that we were trying to boost sales of a specific brand..they were wrong. We usually based our judgement on experience. On all Japanese cars I really recommend Michelin and Yokohama for a smooth ride. Pirelli's perform better on European cars;Jaguars, BMW, Mercedes Audi, Saab and Volvo. Pirelli has a stiffer sidewall and contributes to the sports car feel. Most American cars do well with all tire brands except the crossover Japanese brands like Metro and the Corolla equivalent of Chevy.
I can not believe Toyota is still having this problem. I spent 3 months with my Toyota dealership and Toyota's assigned rep. and they could not fix my shimmy problem. They put 3 sets of tires on my truck, 2 new set of wheels, balanced and aligned my vehicle more times than I care to even talk about and all to no avail. They acknowledged the problem but said that it is not bad enough to worry about any farther. Considering everything they were trying to do to fix the problem why did they not come to this conclusion right from the get-go. Anyway I ended up with Michelin LTX M/S tires which have been great in the wear department. I have 53,000 miles on them and will probably get 60,000 with no problem. The shimmy is still there but not as bad as with the Goodyear's. The true problem I believe is in the frame itself. From what I understand (have been told) Dodge had the same problem a while ago and it had to do with the frames on their trucks. Toyota will never admit to this but once the re-designed 4Runner comes out it will be interesting to see if the shimmy still exists. Good luck with your truck in the future.
i just bought -- 2 weeks ago -- a used 99 srv5 4WD 4Runner automatic. Had it completely checked by my mechanic and thru carfax. Only has 18K original miles. Completely new looking Bridgestone DEULER tires.
Drove it in the rain today for the first time -- light steady rain. On a hill at a stoplight it slipped backwards, and then was spinning out when i gave it gas to make it go forward. Made a right turn later in the day, and it FISHTAILED to the left like CRAZY -- almost had a serious accident -- all traffic around me had to brake to avoid me -- it was scary as hell. I did NOT have the 4 WD engaged, but isn't this alot of loss of control for practically a new car? I have been driving for 15 years, never had an accident. But this is my first 4WD vehicle.
Is there a special way to drive these SUVs?
Should the 4WD have been on?
Did I oversteer and not realize it?
If you have had any type of similar experience please reply here or to munpreetz@yahoo.com.
My husband and I were planning on buying his mother a 6-disk CD changer for X-mas, but the guy at Circuit City said they can't install them on Toyota vehicles newer than '98. We believe hers is either a 1999 or 2000. My dad just bought a MBenz that has some new chip in it so that only MBenz can install CD equipment at an astronomical price so we're wondering if Toyota did the same thing. We just want to find out if we can upgrade her system by going through a store like Best Buy. Thanks in advance for any input. Kim
I have a 1997 with over 100,000 miles with 16" wheels. I complained constantly about rotors. They admit that it exists but will not do anything. Had them replaced once and second time turned. still happens.
Check the tires pressure, if it's too high, low it a bit. Sometimes too much air will easily cause fishtail and wheelspin in wet condition. It happened to me in my last car.
I think it was like topic 84 or 85 who ran the part time 4wd system on dry road and had problems with it... You're not supposed to use a part time system on dry road are you? Did you read the owner's manual before using the system? You may have caused some damage, I'm not sure.
Hello...I have a 2000 4Runner SR5 with Sport Package and I notice that every time I start to accelerate after the SUV hasn't been driven for a while, I hear a twanging kinda noise from the right front passenger area. Sounds like an antenna hitting a tree branch (my antenna is not up when I hear this and there are no tree branches around). After this initial acceleration it goes away and I don't hear it again until the next time. Has anyone had any success in finding out what this noise is? Is it fixable? Also, I have bubbles in my dashboard. Has anyone had any success in getting this fixed?
Well folks it's been around 1 1/2 months since I went to my dealer for the dash problem. Waited for the rep. - he showed today and wants to replace the dashpad on Friday. Still wondering if I should because I'm afraid they may create a different problem along the way. The twang I believe is from the ABS system and will let you know by Friday.How 'bout some advice. Thanks
Thanks skins54 for the info. I don't know how extensive the lumps/bumps (whatever they are) are on your SUV, but mines are barely noticable unless I look really hard. Unless they stick out like a sore thumb, personally I'd just leave it the way it is...You're right, having them fix it might create more problems such as not fitting back properly the way it was...As for the twang noise, I'll be looking forward to hearing what you find out! Thanks!
A little insight for those of us 4runner owners experiencing vibration at highway speeds.The problem is with 4runner/Tacoma rims needing a special adapter for the balancing. The majority of vehicles on the road today have tires that are hub-centric.If you have ever seen your tires balanced, the tire is slid over a conical hub which centers the tire on the balancer and is then balanced. Well 4runner/Tacoma rims are know as lug-centic meaning the tires/rims are mounted on the balancer by the lug holes via this adapter. Only with this adapter will you be able to get a true balance. This has been a hot topic on the 4runner boards I've been posting on. Toyota has issued a technical service bulletin requiring all dealers to have this adapter.The fact of the matter is not all have. Blaming the tires is the easy way out although it is true in some cases. There was a few cases of bad rims but very rare. I can dig back through the archives of some of the forums and post to this forum if folks are interested.
Your story is very similar to mine. Took my 91 4-Runner with 105K miles in for head gasket replacement. Afterwards, it never ran the same; dealer couldn't find any problems. Within 60K miles-rough idle, low compression, and valve job due; suspect valves in #3 and #6 cylinders. Relying on reliable 87 Mazda 626 with 396K original miles , while the 4-Runner sits in my garage. No longer a Toyota fan!
I'm in the market for a used 4Runner SR5 5-spd. And, I know I want the newer 3.4 liter engine. Afer doing some research through Consumer Reports (April 2000 car issue), I found that the '96 was listed as having the worst rating for engine troubles/repairs. However, the '97 had just the opposite - the best rating for engine trouble. I've since done some more research but am unable to figure out why that would be the case when '96 was the year of the engine upgrade. According to what I've read there are only very minor changes between the two years.
Does anyone have any info to back-up or refute Consumer Reports findings?
I just got a new 4runner last Summer and the Dealers in the area can not fix a problem with vibration in the vehicle at high speed. The vehicle came with Good Year tires 265-70R-16.After trying to balance the tires 8 times new Michelin tires were installed, however the vibration problem still exist. Now they are planing to change the rims. Can this problem ever get fixed? Should I invoke the Lemmon law?
There are several topics around Town Hall that may be of assistance to you if you are interested in looking in to the lemon laws. You can click here to get a list of them.
Some are frozen, but may still provide you with some good information. To find an active topic in which you can post, check the "last post" date by each topic name.
Good luck.
Pat Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
This morning after inserting the key into the ignition of my 2000 4runner Limited, the key would not turn. No matter how hard I tried, could not turn key to start engine. I got extra set of keys, tried them, same thing. Finally by working key back and forth the key turned. Has anyone had this problem before, if so, what is going on!!!!
Dashpad was replaced and it's great! The dealer did a very nice job and it's rattle free and just like new.The "twang" is the ABS doing a self test within a few feet of moving the vehicle.Start your truck and drive about 30 feet, stop and turn the truck off. Start it back up, move it 30 feet again and you'll hear it again. It will always perform the check after starting out from a stop and after starting it.By the way-if you have your dashpad changed make sure they plug the clock back in.They forgot to do this and I'll take it in this week to have it fixed. No big deal--I hope. I'll stay in touch
The dealership I purchased my 4Runner said that I could tow it behind my Motorhome. Toyota says that they do not recommend towing the 4Runner unless it is placed on a trailer. This is a 2001 Limited. Does anyone know why it cannot be towed with the transfer case in neutral? Has anyoned towed their's and is there something that needs to be modified to do it?
If this happens again, try turning the steering wheel slightly to the left and hold it there while trying to turn the key. If that does not work, try turning the wheel slightly to the right and then try turning the key. If the wheels of your car are turned slightly when you turn off the ignition, they may move and put pressure against the steering wheel locking mechanism. This makes it hard for the key to turn because there is pressure agains the lock mechanism. DO NOT move the wheel back and forth while trying to turn the key as you may damage the locking mechanism.
Does anyone know if the low-on-gas gauge issue is happening on the 2001 models ? Also if anyone knows of a new 2001 SR5 2WD base model in the state of Washington or Oregon please Email me. Thanks
I have a '90 SR5 that I've owned for 2 years, with minimal problems. Yesterday, first big snowfall of the season, I put it into 4WD. The gear shift moved in no problem, but the 4WD light didn't come on, and I could tell that I wasn't in 4WD. I tried everything - putting the clutch in when I shifted it in, restarting it already engaged in 4WD, trying it in 4WD low...no dice. Did everything right according to the manual. This summer, I had it in 4WD no problemn, so I know it worked, at least it did 4 months ago. Any ideas?
Thanks for the great info! It's good to know that you got a good job done replacing the dash pad! And as for the twang, my mind is more at ease knowing it is just the ABS doing a self-test!
So, took the truck in to the mechanic. He tested it, said nothing is wrong, that it was going into 4WD no problem. I tried it myself, and lo and behold, 4WD actually works now!
Anyone have this happen? The 4WD mechanism should have been lubricated, as I did have it in 4WD a bit this summer.
I'm purchasing a 2001 4runner Limited 4WD V6 with 3 in 1 stereo, convenience package, rear heater, and sunroof. A dealer near my house offered it at $38,600 out the door including tax and everything (8.25% california tax). The sticker price is $40,080. Is this a good deal? If anyone believes I can get a better deal please post a message QUICK cuz I'll probably get one by this weekend. thanx!
I've been reading a lot of post about the lack of up in the 4 runner- if I don't anticipate towing a boat, house..., is there enough power for a quick acceleration onto the interstate or to carry 5 adults with camping luggage, etc.? The new Qx4 has me looking a bit more than I had anticipated, but I want to get something that I will be happy with for MANY years. Any insight? Thanks
Just bought a 1999 SR5 4WD auto w/highlander package, but don't understand the Overdrive feature in the truck. Manual says "switches between three speed and four speed transmission", but that's it. Is it four speed when engaged or three? Would driving with it engaged RADICALLY alter my gas mileage? - it seems to - and should I drive with it engaged most of the time? I'm guessing one should drive with it all the time, as the O/D OFF light is ON on the dash (and very distracting) when I switch the O/D off.
I purchased a used 97' 4runner and I love it, but it is extremely bumpy on excess speeds of 50 mph. I have BF Good rich tires with an aggressive tire thread. Can changing tires with a more smooth tire threads make any kind difference? Thanks.
I have a 96 4Runner SR5 (2WD) with 55K Miles and are looking for a Better Ride! At this point the Monroe Senceatrack looks the best. Does anyone have any background with this subject. Thanks
I purchased a 2000 SR5 4Runner 4WD last April. I have been extremely happy with it thus far and have not experienced any of the problems listed in this discussion group..... knock on wood!
However, I have experienced something lately when utilizing the 4WD that is of concern. If I attempt to make a sharp turn, greater than about 15 degrees, while the 4WD is engaged, the truck seems to bind up.' By bind up' I mean that if I attempt to maintain a constant speed through my turn, I have to accelerate otherwise it will eventually slow to a stop. Straight forward motion does not seem to be hindered at all.
I have not had a chance to discuss this issue with the dealer yet. Has anyone experienced this problem before? If so, what, if anything, was the fix?
You did not say where you are driving the truck in 4wd. You do know that the 4wd on an SR5 is not supposed to be engaged on dry pavement? In 4wd the wheels on the SR5 turn at the same speed. The owners manual says something about the outside wheel generally spins faster in a turn than the inside wheel. But on the SR5 the wheels are locked to spin at the same speed because there is no differential. You are supposed to use the 4wd on a slippery surface like snow or sand to allow for the difference in the wheel spin. Perhaps this is what is causing the bind up.
The 2000 4Runner manual (and my own opinion) says O/D should be on during normal driving. As far as I know of, it results in better gas mileage if the O/D is on. When it is on, I think it is in "4-Speed transmission" mode, and "3-speed" mode if it is off. I'm not really sure about this, as other people (with other makes of cars, usually domestic) tell me that their overdrive gives them more power with it on. I believe that 4Runners and other Toyotas work the opposite way, with the overdrive off, more power comes through the transmission. With O/D off, the transmission does not shift to 4th gear, when it normally would, and instead stays in 3rd, giving more power at higher speeds. Be careful that you do not exceed the speed listed for 3rd gear with overdrive off as I believe it will activate your rev limiter. If I am incorrect in this, someone please correct me.
The steering wheel lock is (de)activated with the ignition cylinder. If the steering wheel is under tension against the steering wheel lock, it will be difficult to turn the key in the ignition cylinder.
Simply apply a slight turn to the steering wheel in both directions to see if it is indeed against the lock. If it is, turn the wheel so that there is no tension against it and then attempt to turn the key.
Some automatic transmissions also have a safety interlock that prevents the turning of the ignitions cylinder if the transmission is not in either "Park" or "Neutral" and/or the footbrake is not depressed.
Comments
as I see it. The back end seems to be lower than
the front end of the vehicle. What causes this
situation? It is the springs or shocks? Can either
one be upgraded or replaced to prevent or solve
this issue? Thank You.
If you notice ,the 96 and up runners do not sag in the rear.
When I was looking at all the option, I thought I could have body color-keyed running boards added later, but now I'm told that's not an option out here in California. Odd.
Anyway, my 4Runner came with the keyless entry remotes. Then I paid about $150.00 for the alarm system + another $150.00 to have it installed. Yikes! A friend suggested I look at third-party alarms and now I wish I had, but at the time I wanted all Toyota parts in the truck.
Hope this helps.
Michelin and Yokohama are really the best tires you can get for your SUV if you want a smooth ride. Some customers thought that we were trying to boost sales of a specific brand..they were wrong. We usually based our judgement on experience.
On all Japanese cars I really recommend Michelin and Yokohama for a smooth ride.
Pirelli's perform better on European cars;Jaguars, BMW, Mercedes Audi, Saab and Volvo. Pirelli has a stiffer sidewall and contributes to the sports car feel. Most American cars do well with all tire brands except the crossover Japanese brands like Metro and the Corolla equivalent of Chevy.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
4Runner automatic. Had it completely checked by my
mechanic and thru carfax. Only has 18K original
miles. Completely new looking Bridgestone DEULER
tires.
Drove it in the rain today for the first time --
light steady rain. On a hill at a stoplight it
slipped backwards, and then was spinning out when
i gave it gas to make it go forward. Made a right
turn later in the day, and it FISHTAILED to the
left like CRAZY -- almost had a serious accident
-- all traffic around me had to brake to avoid me
-- it was scary as hell. I did NOT have the 4 WD
engaged, but isn't this alot of loss of control
for practically a new car? I have been driving for
15 years, never had an accident. But this is my
first 4WD vehicle.
Is there a special way to drive these SUVs?
Should the 4WD have been on?
Did I oversteer and not realize it?
If you have had any type of similar experience
please reply here or to munpreetz@yahoo.com.
Thanks
Munpreet
I don't think I'll buy another 4 runner.
Package and I notice that every time I start to
accelerate after the SUV hasn't been driven for a
while, I hear a twanging kinda noise from the right
front passenger area. Sounds like an antenna
hitting a tree branch (my antenna is not up when I
hear this and there are no tree branches around).
After this initial acceleration it goes away and I
don't hear it again until the next time. Has
anyone had any success in finding out what this
noise is? Is it fixable? Also, I have bubbles in
my dashboard. Has anyone had any success in
getting this fixed?
Thanks...
hub-centric.If you have ever seen your tires balanced, the tire is slid over a conical hub which centers the tire on the balancer and is then
balanced. Well 4runner/Tacoma rims are know as lug-centic meaning the tires/rims are mounted on the balancer by the lug holes via this adapter. Only with this adapter will you be able to get a true balance. This has been a hot topic on the
4runner boards I've been posting on. Toyota has
issued a technical service bulletin requiring all
dealers to have this adapter.The fact of the matter is not all have. Blaming the tires is the easy way out although it is true in some cases. There was a few cases of bad rims but very rare. I can dig back through the archives of some of the forums and post to this forum if folks are
interested.
Ciao,
Trongod
Does anyone have any info to back-up or refute Consumer Reports findings?
Can this problem ever get fixed? Should I invoke the Lemmon law?
There are several topics around Town Hall that may be of assistance to you if you are interested in looking in to the lemon laws. You can click here to get a list of them.
Some are frozen, but may still provide you with some good information. To find an active topic in which you can post, check the "last post" date by each topic name.
Good luck.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Hope this helps!
Also if anyone knows of a new 2001 SR5 2WD base model in the state of Washington or Oregon please Email me.
Thanks
Thanks again!!!!
Anyone have this happen? The 4WD mechanism should have been lubricated, as I did have it in 4WD a bit this summer.
rajuncajun1 - I'd suggest you head to the active 4Runner discussions on our SUV board to get a good answer to your question.
Pat/Roving Host
Thanks,
Doc Barbay
Boston MA
At this point the Monroe Senceatrack looks the best. Does anyone have
any background with this subject. Thanks
However, I have experienced something lately when utilizing the 4WD that is of concern. If I attempt to make a sharp turn, greater than about 15 degrees, while the 4WD is engaged, the truck seems to bind up.' By bind up' I mean that if I attempt to maintain a constant speed through my turn, I have to accelerate otherwise it will eventually slow to a stop. Straight forward motion does not seem to be hindered at all.
I have not had a chance to discuss this issue with the dealer yet. Has anyone experienced this problem before? If so, what, if anything, was the fix?
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
The steering wheel lock is (de)activated with the ignition cylinder. If the steering wheel is under tension against the steering wheel lock, it will be difficult to turn the key in the ignition cylinder.
Simply apply a slight turn to the steering wheel in both directions to see if it is indeed against the lock. If it is, turn the wheel so that there is no tension against it and then attempt to turn the key.
Some automatic transmissions also have a safety interlock that prevents the turning of the ignitions cylinder if the transmission is not in either "Park" or "Neutral" and/or the footbrake is not depressed.