Hoping some one may have had this problem - 92 bonneville, shows to have a code 44 that auto-zone says is a oxygen sensor and is burning lean, we have replace fuel filter, mass-air flow sensor and the oxygen sensor. It only does this when the out side temp. is at least 90 degrees or hotter and we have run at least 2 hours or more. At this time the best that I can do is top out at 35 to 40 mph. We can pull over and let it set for 45 minutes and we are good for another couple of hours. If anybody can help i would be grateful.
I'd post in the leng05, "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" #1551, 15 Jun 2005 4:52 pm discussion and hope that someone there, maybe Alcan, can tell you what is really wrong. The oxygen sensor is just an indicated problem. There most like is another single part that is not right. Before you hang a lot of parts, I'd see if thsi is a typical problem that someone can diagnose.
A shop replaced the A/C compressor on our 1995 Bonneville. After the replacement, the "check engine" light displayed. The next day we returned the car to the shop, and they told us that their diagnostic equipment was not able to connect with our car, and to take it to the dealer. The day after that, the car quit running. We towed it back to the original shop, and they informed us that the engine was ruined from driving with no coolant. Would the shop have drained the coolant to replace the compressor? Thanks
Bonneville 2000 stops dead without warning, except "compass calibration" alert comes up on the computerized screen. Can it be related to something in the vehicle, like golf clubs,/ paint can/ etc.?? Before it will start again, the compass calibration has to be rezoned.
Normally a major a/c fix does not require a coolant removal/change. When was the last time you had checked the coolant level? Who knows, you could have gotten a leak or broken hose just the day before & never noticed it. I had a coolant PIPE from the autotrans split off the radiator just as I started a trip. I was lucky - noticed coolant on the driveway. I could probably have gone 10-20 miles with a loaded car & family before engine failure.
There are so many messages regarding the shudder that can occur when the torque converter goes in and out of lock up at low engine RPM that I don't know where to start.
The first question I have is whether it makes sense to go to a transmission shop or to the dealer.
Second, is it likely that the valve or solenoid need work? Some have also seemed to have luck with replacing spark plug wires and coil packs. If this is common then the dealer should be my first stop and if they can't fix the problem, they should, in theory, refer me to a transmission shop.
What kills me is that I am the original owner of this 2000 SLE with 55,000 miles. The shudder just occurred within the past two weeks. But, I owned a 1992 LeSabre with almost the same condition. I should have learned my lesson.
This is likely the last GM product I will ever own. (The list of defects is now between 15 and 20 items long and includes an intermittent cabin leak that I doubt will ever be cured.) Toyota will be the number one car manufacturer in the world. I am sad for GM but they need look in the mirror for answers. Too bad we can't fix our cars with some sort of smoke and mirror trickery.
hi all ! just read a lot of everyone message and sometime it just feel scary.It`s a shame that GM dont take their customer more seriously.btw I am from Montreal.I bought a 1994 bonneville last fall but did not ride it this winter, was parked outside but was started and moved every week . I put in on the road 1 month ago and I have the rpm always stuck at 3000 on the idle(and park) . It does drink lot of gas and on red light and stop sign, it sure want to go.I cleaned the MAF sensor,(looks like 2 little resistor) like in post 1486 but did not work. I will try post 1482 from alcan. I check vacums and all looks OK .I also cleaned the inside of the throttle body.I sprayed WD40 at lots of spots with no results. I unhocked the vacum which goes to the brake booster and the car wanted to die. I was told that if you remove this vacum and that the car goes steady at 800-1000 rpm than the fault woul be a blown booster(brakes are a bit hard , but then again the ABS dont work) . I cleaned the idle air control and no changed as well.Two weeks ago it was going fine after a 10 minutes ride but the idle was not even. Now it is back to its 3000 rpm.There is a check engine sign , but per what I can see posted, it not a garanty that the right thing is often found. If someone can help, I would surely appreciate .I did not see often problems like this in the pages. Wish I could understand the whole relation betwenn all those sensors!!! Tks for the help.
when i start my car, the engine turns... but for how long it stays running is a different matter. it will sputter out, and i loose power steering. i guess i first noticed problems when my car would vibrate when i accellerated up untill about 50 or 60. then recently i would be driving, and loose power steering and it would veer a little and kick back in. this morning although i got in and started it, and it sputtered out. started it again, drove it about 5 houses down the street, and it died... spent 10 min starting it back up and edging it back down the street towards my house. it finally worked when i started it up and slammed the gas, and it caught... then later i started it up and it sputtered out, again. I had my neighbor fiddle with it a bit and it started up again, and seemd to work properly untill i got in and started driving it... 3 houses later i'm in a non running car. so i'm here now... can anyone help?
I need to put a new fuel pump on my 88 Bonneville. The first question I get from friends who could help is whether the pump is inside or outside of the fuel tank. I have no idea. Does any one know?
Thanks alcan for the reply.The trick on fishing for diagnostics dont work on mine. I took it to the dealer and they replaced TPS and works fine now. The only problem that I still have is high gas consumption.When they read the codes, the only one coming out was the knock sensor and as I did not requested to change it , they did not( at least they fixed my 3000 idle RPM) . Plugs were changed(last fall) and wires(BOSH) .Can it be anything else than the knock sensor?( I guess creating a rich mixture of gas) .I went at that place you showed,` howstuffworks`(lots of nice stuff) but did not see how this knock sensor works? And how it could be the problem?. If I change this part,can I buy cheaper part at Canadian tire? Tks for your time.
Here's a problem that is baffling my local Pontiac dealer's service department. I have a 2002 Bonneville SLE with automatic climate control. In very cold weather and very hot weather, the climate control system will stop blowing air. It doesn't matter if its hot or cold, it stops blowing altogether, usually after the car has been started after being parked for a short interval. When I activate the system, the readout will show the thermostat temperature setting, fan speed, and mode (auto, A/C, or duct air direction), but the system will not blow air into the passenger compartment. :P
The service specialist seems to think there is a problem with one or more of the three blend doors behind the climate control panel behind the dashboard, but beyond that, he cannot seem to replicate the problem. Is this a problem that anyone has encountered with post-2000 Bonnies? Any thoughts on what might be the cause? Suggestions and logical guesses will be appreciated. Thanks! :confuse:
If a knock sensor is defective, it can affect ignition timing and fuel economy. Remember though, the trouble code doesn't say that the sensor is defective, it says there's a fault in the sensor circuit. Could be a dirty wiring connector or wiring chafed through. CTC part # is 23-2651, $74. Here's some more info:
I have a 1993 Bonneville SE with 180,000 miles. It's still a good running old car but it has developed a fuel supply problem. I have replaced the filter and run fuel system cleaner through it. If the tank is below 3/4 full it acts like it is running out of gas. Before I drop the tank I was wondering if there is anything else to check. Thanks for any and all help.
I own a 2001 SLE Bonneville. today I was advised by mechanics at Goodyear that my outer tie rod ends need to be replaced. The car has 77000 miles - not driven all that hard. Am taking a trip next week and need to know if this seems right - if it is dangerous to drive. Am new in my area and don't yet have a regular mechanic - and will confess to some (total probably) ignorance on this issue. Any input would be appreciated.
my 97 sounds like a lawnmower when revving up and it dies evrytime it idles...most say its the fuel injectors but could it also be fuel filter related?...could there be a clog somewhere? or does the engine have a blown head gasket...it drives but dies at any stop sign and definitely wont drive up hills...how do i replace the fuel filter if that is the problem? the fuel gauge also does not work and the lights inside the car stay on all the time and dont turn off 15 minutes even after its off...someone please help...im not a mechanic
I assume you haven't been to a dealer to have the tie rod ends checked. I believe those are sealed and require no lubrication for life?
In some cases service shops try to find something to ring up more service dollars and scare people into changing things not needed. And it might be the tie rod ends have worn. I'd check a dealer--quick. Shouldn't cost much for them to check the ends for you and if there is wear there might be some help from GM in replacing them especially if you're a squeaky wheel.
I recall having tires put on my 67 Mustang and the Sears people telling me the ball joints had too much play in them while they had the car jacked up and needed replacing at 20,000 or so. I went immediately to the Ford dealer who checked them with the jack under the lower A-arm so the ball joint had proper load on it for checking--they were fine. Sears was checking when they were hanging with no weight on them.
Has the water level stayed the same in the reservoir tank when the motor is hot after driving or has it been losing water. One possibility would be seeping antifreeze from the plastic intake manifold problem.
Is there water in your oil? How does the oil look on the dipstick when the motor has been running.
Greetings! I have a 1993 Bonneville and love it! Last week, however, a multitude of electrical issues surfaced all on the same day: the dome lights do not come on when you open the doors, the pop-trunk button on driver's door does not work, the door locks do not open when you push the switch on ANY of the doors or when you click the remote keyfob (a pain in the neck to manually open those back doors!), the backlit area around the air/heat controls is now dark... I think that's it.... Yes, the power windows work even from the driver's side door panel.... are all these things separate issues or could they be related???? A fuse? or lots of little problems? Thanks for looking.
Try grounds. There is a ground connection next to the driver's seat. It is under the carpet about where your left hand would hang down and touch the carpet between the door rail and the seat. Some have found poor connections there. There also is a ground in t he left panel next to the left foot beside the parking brake pedal. I have never traced for that one.
2000 SLE with the same problem. Coming in around the windshield, and also under the front doors. Runs under the console and down to the low spot in front of the rear seats. AND THE TRUNK IS FULL OF WATER !!! Both the passenger compartment and the trunk are the reasons I can't justify buying another one of these cars, and GM don't care !!!
Hi Alcan.I bought a knock sensor at Canadian Tire before checking mine. I checked mine last week-end. This thing is screwed on the motor on the botton front. Actually , its like a big 1/2 inch large screw with a large expension outside the motor, which is screwed on the motor to pick up any unsual knock. Anyway mine , the cable was plainly disconnected...But I performed the test from the info on the internet site where you sent me.It proved my sensor was good.One of the test is amazing as when you knock on the motor with a hammer near the sensor it does developpe an AC voltage(without the key on) . The harder you knock, the more voltage. Anyway I plug back and return the new one to CT. My gas performance have enhence a good 20 %. Thanks for your help on that one. I will need another info from you when you will be free of time..., Sometime the car stall when you are getting out the high way. Happened twice. The two times, I was on Overdrive. When on Drive, it never happened. The idle is at about 700-800 , spark plug changed recently and wire one month ago. One thing I see is the gaz filter. Do you see anything else? Thanks.
You're right. It should be "GM doesn't care" about corrosion. I am in Indiana. I took my 2001 Bonneville for the hood corrosion problem with 102,000 miles on it and they told me that the ONLY reason it could not be covered because corrosion coverage expires at 100K. I called GM Cares and the best I got was a certificate for a $1000 off of a new car purchase. I have 3 kids driving, all in college and a wife that learned to drive from "Rainman" so I am the last prospect for a new car. I do have a pretty certificate that is non transferrable.
I did get a little satisfaction. I went home and looked closely at my other 2001 Bonneville with 78,000 miles and the corrosion had started all under front edge of the hood. I took it back to the same place and yes, they did repaint the hood. I have a third 2001 with 88,000 on it with the same problem and it will be interesting to see what happens when I get take it in.
Hey rustyul, those calipers can get very rusty inside and around the outer edges.Get out the old standby WD-40 and let it set overnight.I have had the same problem.walt8
Hi everyone, I am a newbee here, so here goes.I have a 90 Bonny and the A/C fan motor keeps running all the time even with the ignition off. Someone told me to locate the relay, did that, removed it and motor still runs.Any suggestions?
Amazing what happens when things get re-connected, huh? That's why I always stress that diagnostic trouble codes relate to a circuit, not a component. Who knows how many thousands of dollars get spent throwing parts at cars based on DTC's and no follow-up diagnosis. Anyway, glad to hear you got it sorted out, especially with the current price of fuel. Re the engine cutting out, best thing to do is have the fuel pressure checked, but changing the filter isn't a bad idea. Worst thing is you'd be catching up on maintenance and making the fuel pump happy. If you do change the filter and it's the style with the threaded connection, they can be a bear to get off. Blast the connection with penetrating oil a day or so before you attempt to remove it.
My 1994 bonneville just started doing this today, ill be driving like normal then the car will bog out and not get gas, it will stay started but the rpm gauge just bobs up and down like it wants to get gas but it does not. I think it is the fuel filter but before i buy one I wanted to check with these forums because they are very helpful, My driver side ground connection buss was corroded and this website saved me tons of money thx.
I was going to change my spark plugs on my '92 but before I did I wanted to see if anyone has any tips for me before I go ahead and do it. I've changed spark plugs a few times on my former vehicle ('86 F-150) but never on my Bonneville. Thanks a lot.
Pretty straightforward job. Rotate the plug wire boots 1/2 turn before removing them to avoid damaging the wires, or better yet replace them while you're in there. Loosen each plug a couple of turns then blow compressed air in to prevent any debris from entering the cylinders. Usw dilectric silicone grease in the boots if you ever want to get them off again. Make sure the metal heat shields are in place on the boots. Use AC Delco parts only.
I just got a 89 bonneville se and i'm currently replacing the passenger half shaft which is going good, but i have some problems with the drivers door and low beam head lights. My drivers side door wont open and i can't completely get the door panel off. Any suggestions on getting open and fixed would be great!!. My low beam head lights won't come on, but my high beams work along with all my other lights and the head light lamp on the console is lite up. Please help ..
Hi all. New to this forum. Got a 96 Bonneville SLE 170,000 miles. experiencing loss of vacumn at stop lights and air is redirected to defrost vents...still cold just redirected until back up to speed. is there something i can check/do before taking to repair shop. also had the programmer replaced with a salvaged one off 99 wrecked. couldn't afford a new one. since installation doors do not open as described on digital readout..i.e. display shows out the top vents but air is out the top...always in a bi-level mode will not blowout only the top vents to cool car down quicker. need help
I have a 97 Bonneville SE that has the DRL's. I was wondering if anybody knows of a way to diable the DRL's but still being able to use your low beam light? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!!
1996 Bonneville................. was getting an oil change yesterday. well they told me i needed a water pump. Took it to get a second opinion, well they put some pressure tool over the radiator cap hole, and sure enough i had coolant spraying right out around the lower manifold on the left side of the engine, right over all the pulleys. Guy said it could cost anywhere from $400 to $650. Does this sound right to anyone, or is there a way i could fix it myself, or is it a pretty intense job. HE said it would probably be 5 hours of labor! Just wanting some feedback before i try to figure out how in the hell i am ever going to pay for this.
It's a straightforward job, no surprises other than the 2 hidden lower intake manifold bolts. You'll need an accurate inch/pound torque wrench and follow the torque sequence and specs exactly. You decide whether you have the mechanical ability to tackle it. Here's how::
Intake Manifold GM Bonneville/Eighty Eight/LeSabre 1995-97 VIN K ENGINE
On these engines, the upper and lower intake manifolds must be removed separately.
1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure, as outlined in Fuel System of this repair guide. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Drain the cooling system into a suitable container. 4. Remove the fuel injector sight shield and air intake duct. 5. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires on the right side of the engine and position aside. 6. Remove the manifold vacuum source. 7. Remove the fuel rail. 8. Remove the EGR heat shield. 9. Unfasten the cable bracket-to-cylinder head mounting bolt. 10. Disconnect the throttle cable. 11. Remove the throttle body support bracket. 12. Unfasten the upper intake manifold bolts, then remove the upper manifold.
This engine has two bolts which are hidden beneath the upper intake. These bolts are located in the right front and left rear corners of the lower intake manifold. This is why it is necessary to remove the upper before servicing the lower manifold.
13. Disconnect the upper radiator hose. 14. Remove the alternator, as outlined in Engine Electrical of this repair guide. 15. Remove the drive belt tensioner. 16. Remove the EGR valve outlet pipe. 17. Unfasten the intake manifold bolt, then remove the manifold from the vehicle. Remove and discard the gaskets. Thoroughly clean the gasket mating surfaces, intake manifold bolts and bolt holes.
To install:
18. Position a new gasket, then place the lower intake manifold over it. Apply a suitable threadlocking compound to the bolts, then install them. For 1995 vehicles, tighten the bolts twice, to 24 inch lbs. (10 Nm), in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure. For 1996-97 vehicles, tighten the bolts to 1 ft. lbs. (15 Nm), in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure.
18. Install the EGR valve outlet pipe. 19. Install the drive belt tensioner. 20. Install the alternator.
21. Connect the upper radiator hose. 22. Position the upper intake manifold on the lower manifold. Install the retaining bolts and tighten to 24 inch lbs. (10 Nm). 23. Install the throttle body support bracket, then connect the throttle cable. 24. Install the cable bracket-to-cylinder head mounting bolt. 25. Install the EGR heat shield. 26. Install the fuel rail. 27. Install the manifold vacuum source. 28. Connect the right side spark wires on the right side of the engine. 29. Install the fuel injector sight shield and air intake duct. 30. Fill the cooling system with the proper type and amount of fluid. 31. Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for leaks. Check the cooling system, and add as necessary.
holy cow. Thanks alcan for the detailed job descirption. I dont think i will be able to do this myself though, being i rent a house, and i have no garage or driveway to even work in. Also i took it to another shop and they said it was something else wrong with it. Is there some sort of T of L bracket or hose or something around that area that is common to break. and would cause coolant to leak.. It is pretty bad i already for the name of it. They said it was only about a $30 part.. honestly i really appreciate the response, and it is nice to know i can come here and ask questions when i am in need. thanks.
I had a similar problem with my 96 Bonneville. It irritated me for the longest time, but it ended up being something simple. The fuel pump in the later 90's get really loud with age and I thought there might be some backpressure, but it just ended up being clogged fuel injectors. Ran 2 cycles of fuel injector cleaner through the tank and it cleared up within a week. This might not be your issue, but from the sounds of it, its a good place to start.
Comments
leng05, "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" #1551, 15 Jun 2005 4:52 pm
discussion and hope that someone there, maybe Alcan, can tell you what is really wrong. The oxygen sensor is just an indicated problem. There most like is another single part that is not right. Before you hang a lot of parts, I'd see if thsi is a typical problem that someone can diagnose.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My question is I'm trying to find which relay module controls the alternator.
The first question I have is whether it makes sense to go to a transmission shop or to the dealer.
Second, is it likely that the valve or solenoid need work? Some have also seemed to have luck with replacing spark plug wires and coil packs. If this is common then the dealer should be my first stop and if they can't fix the problem, they should, in theory, refer me to a transmission shop.
What kills me is that I am the original owner of this 2000 SLE with 55,000 miles. The shudder just occurred within the past two weeks. But, I owned a 1992 LeSabre with almost the same condition. I should have learned my lesson.
This is likely the last GM product I will ever own. (The list of defects is now between 15 and 20 items long and includes an intermittent cabin leak that I doubt will ever be cured.) Toyota will be the number one car manufacturer in the world. I am sad for GM but they need look in the mirror for answers. Too bad we can't fix our cars with some sort of smoke and mirror trickery.
http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
The service specialist seems to think there is a problem with one or more of the three blend doors behind the climate control panel behind the dashboard, but beyond that, he cannot seem to replicate the problem. Is this a problem that anyone has encountered with post-2000 Bonnies? Any thoughts on what might be the cause? Suggestions and logical guesses will be appreciated. Thanks! :confuse:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/15/e4/5f/09- 00823d8015e45f.jsp
In some cases service shops try to find something to ring up more service dollars and scare people into changing things not needed. And it might be the tie rod ends have worn. I'd check a dealer--quick. Shouldn't cost much for them to check the ends for you and if there is wear there might be some help from GM in replacing them especially if you're a squeaky wheel.
I recall having tires put on my 67 Mustang and the Sears people telling me the ball joints had too much play in them while they had the car jacked up and needed replacing at 20,000 or so. I went immediately to the Ford dealer who checked them with the jack under the lower A-arm so the ball joint had proper load on it for checking--they were fine. Sears was checking when they were hanging with no weight on them.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Is there water in your oil? How does the oil look on the dipstick when the motor has been running.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
This has to been a consistant problem with my 94' have you had any replys with help? If so could you pass on the good word?
Cheers!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Actually , its like a big 1/2 inch large screw with a large expension outside the motor, which is screwed on the motor to pick up any unsual knock. Anyway mine , the cable was plainly disconnected...But I performed the test from the info on the internet site where you sent me.It proved my sensor was good.One of the test is amazing as when you knock on the motor with a hammer near the sensor it does developpe an AC voltage(without the key on) . The harder you knock, the more voltage. Anyway I plug back and return the new one to CT. My gas performance have enhence a good 20 %. Thanks for your help on that one. I will need another info from you when you will be free of time..., Sometime the car stall when you are getting out the high way. Happened twice. The two times, I was on Overdrive. When on Drive, it never happened. The idle is at about 700-800 , spark plug changed recently and wire one month ago. One thing I see is the gaz filter. Do you see anything else? Thanks.
I did get a little satisfaction. I went home and looked closely at my other 2001 Bonneville with 78,000 miles and the corrosion had started all under front edge of the hood. I took it back to the same place and yes, they did repaint the hood. I have a third 2001 with 88,000 on it with the same problem and it will be interesting to see what happens when I get take it in.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
P.S. where are you located?
http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/fix_vacuum_line.htm
Intake Manifold
GM Bonneville/Eighty Eight/LeSabre
1995-97 VIN K ENGINE
On these engines, the upper and lower intake manifolds must be removed separately.
1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure, as outlined in Fuel System of this repair guide.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Drain the cooling system into a suitable container.
4. Remove the fuel injector sight shield and air intake duct.
5. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires on the right side of the engine and position aside.
6. Remove the manifold vacuum source.
7. Remove the fuel rail.
8. Remove the EGR heat shield.
9. Unfasten the cable bracket-to-cylinder head mounting bolt.
10. Disconnect the throttle cable.
11. Remove the throttle body support bracket.
12. Unfasten the upper intake manifold bolts, then remove the upper manifold.
This engine has two bolts which are hidden beneath the upper intake. These bolts are located in the right front and left rear corners of the lower intake manifold. This is why it is necessary to remove the upper before servicing the lower manifold.
13. Disconnect the upper radiator hose.
14. Remove the alternator, as outlined in Engine Electrical of this repair guide.
15. Remove the drive belt tensioner.
16. Remove the EGR valve outlet pipe.
17. Unfasten the intake manifold bolt, then remove the manifold from the vehicle. Remove and discard the gaskets. Thoroughly clean the gasket mating surfaces, intake manifold bolts and bolt holes.
To install:
18. Position a new gasket, then place the lower intake manifold over it. Apply a suitable threadlocking compound to the bolts, then install them. For 1995 vehicles, tighten the bolts twice, to 24 inch lbs. (10 Nm), in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure. For 1996-97 vehicles, tighten the bolts to 1 ft. lbs. (15 Nm), in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure.
Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence - 1996-97 3.8L (VIN K) engine:
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small/0900823d8015dfc1.jpg
18. Install the EGR valve outlet pipe.
19. Install the drive belt tensioner.
20. Install the alternator.
21. Connect the upper radiator hose.
22. Position the upper intake manifold on the lower manifold. Install the retaining bolts and tighten to 24 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
23. Install the throttle body support bracket, then connect the throttle cable.
24. Install the cable bracket-to-cylinder head mounting bolt.
25. Install the EGR heat shield.
26. Install the fuel rail.
27. Install the manifold vacuum source.
28. Connect the right side spark wires on the right side of the engine.
29. Install the fuel injector sight shield and air intake duct.
30. Fill the cooling system with the proper type and amount of fluid.
31. Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for leaks. Check the cooling system, and add as necessary.