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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pontiac-Bonneville-SSE-SSEI-Trailer-Hitch-92-99_W- 0QQitemZ8037922968QQcategoryZ33653QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Because of speedometer problem I suspect something like a neighbor had on a Toronado my neighbor worked on for his dad: bad computer. It missed erratically, sputtered, sometimes started hard, sometimes easier.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I cant keep forking out that kind of money.
Find a good garage by referrals from friends or coworkers.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My 95 Bonneville has around 58,000 miles. Around 9 mos ago I started having a problem with my Security Light staying on...after initial attempt to start the car.
When I got the car manual out...it stated that perhaps the chip on my key...was dirty. Also, everytime you try to start your car...and it doesn't start...the red security light will come on and stay ON for 3 mins. When it goes off you can then try to start the car again. (Not a good thing when you are in a grocery store parking lot...with ice cream in your trunk...and it is 95 degrees outside) :mad:
Since, that first experience with the security light...I have also had several other times...where this has happened. Usually, the car will start right up after...waiting out the 3 mins. for the security light to go out. Just a couple of times...I have had to wait it out for 2 attempts at starting (6 mins).
I have 2 keys. Tried cleaning them both...and using them both. I am thinking that this is not the problem...because I could not tell much difference between using the two keys...plus the problem still occurs...from time to time.
My question is....
What exactly is it that needs to be replaced...and approximately what would the cost be? Is it the lock cylinder or the ignition module or the switch and wires?
Are some of these fixes...one in the same...but different folks call them something different, etc? :confuse:
I will tell you that I am a woman...and I don't know exactly what all those terms are or if they might be the same thing due to my lack of knowledge on cars and car parts.
If I do not fix the car soon...Could it be possible that one day when I go to start the car...it will just not start anymore and I would then have to have it towed to a garage...since I guess I would not be able to have the car jumped since I would not be able to have the key start and turn the car engine on...CORRECT? Or...will I always be able to continue to start the car...but just have to be prepared to wait it out for the 3 or 6 mins...whenever the car decides it dosen't want to start...whenever...or where ever...?????? :confuse:
Any info you can give me on the proper terms of the names of the parts and cost of such to repair would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance for reading and any help you can send my way I would certainly appreciate.
I read up more and dipped the key in alcohol and quickly inserted it into the key cylinder to carry alcohol in with it to clean the two contacts that are inside there. That's what I'd recommend you do.
I had lubed the key cylinder in the fall with graphite in a squeeze tube but it was different than the fine power I had used before (could't find the old one). I think that hurt the contact ability somehow.
The VATS light quit coming on after that. That's been 5000 miles ago or so now.
Unless your VATS (security) light comes on and stays on you may not have a fatal problem. There is a bypass method requiring cutting a plastic tube with the two wires in it near the lower part of the steering column and connecting those two with a resistor of the proper resistance to replace the key reading at the top of the column.
I had a 93 LeSabre and the VATS light came on and I had the dealer do the repair (they didn't tell me there was a bypass). They replaced key cylinder and two new keys and it was $100 and more. Don't recall exactly.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
When I cleaned my keys (before)...I did not use the eraser method you mention...(I will try that)...but I did clean them off with alcohol. However...I did not put alcohol on the key...and try to hurriedly put the key into the key cylinder before the alcohol falls off. That could be tricky...but I shall give it a try for sure.
I did take a dry swab...and try to put it into the key cylinder and rub it gently back and forth being careful not to loose any cotton in there. I did not really see any dirt on the swab from doing that...But I am not really sure what I was even trying to clean.
Did the method with the graphite work for you...or not work for you? You mentioned that you weren't sure and may have hurt the contact ablility...but then you mentioned that it has been 5000 miles later...and you have not had a problem. :confuse:
Why did you think it hurt the contact ability? I was thinking maybe if the alcohol dosen't work...I should try to get some graphite and try that...if it has worked for you. Maybe you can clarify for me...and tell me where to get that stuff at.
My Security light does not (or at least it has not done so yet) REMAIN ON...once the car starts up. Sounds like yours did that a couple times...before you fixed it.
Lastly, it is good to know that the whole security can be bypassed. I wouldn't do it myself...but...I could probably find someone who could do that for me...if need be. I had a friend that helped me put a couple of new light fixtures in the house. He took down the old ones and wired up the new ones. Since it is wiring...maybe I could ask him. I suppose if you know what you are doing it would be fairly simple. Did you ever try this yourself?
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with me.
Clean the contact on the key resistor pellet with a pencil eraser. Then use the key. If you have repeated problems wtih not starting at all then you might want to look into the bypass. I might be able to find pictures to show what you're looking for at the bottom of the column and the resistor values to choose from. It requires working in cramped spaces lying on the floor of your car.
I suspect you got something from your pocket or purse onto the key and then into the key cylinder. The more you use it and keep your keys clean the better it gets. That's been my experience. My problem is usually lint from my pocket on the key getting on the contacts. I've heard of someone who got icing from a cake onto their keys in their pocket (older gentleman) and got it into his key cylinder.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I suppose over 11 years time...my keys have probably got some build up of sorts...on them. I will start by cleaning them very well...with the method you suggested.
Then I will try the alcohol on the key and then inserting into key cylinder...a few times.
It didn't dawn on me until you mentioned the cake icing story...that I may have contaminated the inside of the key cylinder with the dirty key. DUH !!!
Hopefully, this will work!
However, if it dosen't I am interested in knowing more about the bypass method. If you are able to locate some pictures and more detailed info on the - how to's and resistor values you mentioned - PLEASE feel free to email them to me.
Thanks so much for your time and your willingness to help others. It is very much appreciated. I hope to hear from you.
There were some problems with tire/wheel combination not rolling round causing vibrations in the suspension that were transmitted through the stiff chassis. The suspension parts have become lighter and more susceptible.
Since they worked on the seal, did they lift the motor out of the cradle? Motor mount? Did they remove axles from the transmission. Were those not put back right and now causing a vibration.
The car needs someone who can tell the difference between the types of vibration. Dealers have a vibration analyzer that attaches to different parts and is able to hint at souce of vibration.
First thing to check would be a careful realignment by a knowledgeable person. That caused vibration on my 03 with Symmetry Michelins. Alignment might have been affected by lifting/removing the motor if that was needed for seal repair.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Wires age and yours are up to 7 years old if they've never been changed.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Jim
How recently were plugs replaced?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I've had my '96 Bonneville for almost 6 years and now it seems to be dying.
For the past 2-3 years my AC compressor was making a jingling noise (but I can live with that). Transmission vibrates from time to time at about 60 mph (the test showed "Transmission component slipping"), but other than that it runs fine.
But the 2 major issues are - Recently I had to add coolant about 1 liter every couple of weeks. So I found out that it needs new intake manifold gaskets. I was going to do it and then last week the engine started to make some strange loud ticking noise, the more RPM I give it, the faster the ticking. And the sound comes and goes, meaning that I may start the car, and it's fine, but next time the ticking is back.
When I took it to the shop (Meineke) to replace the gaskets the guy there told me that the sound is most likely caused by a bent piston rod (I think that's what he meant) or a lifter. They ran a pressure test and a combustion test and it didn't show anything other than a coolant leak.
They want at least $170 just for the labor to open the engine, and then it may run into thousands. The car obviously isn't worth it.
Does anybody have any idea how bad it is and what can I do?
I have to make a 300-miles trip next month and don't want to get stuck on the highway with a jammed engine.
Got EGR Valve replaced at a shop ($240). I have other problems, but that one seems to be cured.
Sounds like lifter noise, possibly from coolant contamination of your oil.
You might drop your oil and examine it or pull the valve covers off and see what's up.
How do you know the intake gaskets are leaking?
How I know that the gaskets are leaking? I did the pressure test twice (a few months ago and recently) and when they put the radiator under pressure, the coolant leaked from the engine seams above the belt pullies.
I've never done anything on this car myself. So, how do I get to these valve covers, and do I need any special tools? Is there some special procedure?
What signs should I look for in the oil?
Anyway, you can check for oil contamination by pulling your dipstick and looking for a milky white substance mixed in with the clear amber colored oil----a streaking of white, like milk mixed in with the oil. That is the reaction of coolant + water + oil, producing the white sludge. If you see this, this would definitely cause lifter noise.
Probably your best bet is to get the intake gaskets replaced, flush your oil and coolant, and hope for the best that the other noises will go away.
That's a relief. Seems, it's still not so bad.
I checked the oil recently. I didn't notice any foreign matter there, but it's pretty dark, almost black, although I ran only 1500 miles since last change. So I guess I will have to flush the system and change it anyway.
And maybe you are right and there might be some water in there, because I had some trouble recently starting it up in a really cold weather. Seemed like it was choking for a few seconds and then smoothed up.
What do you think about that sealant stuff sold at the stores that you pour in the radiator to stop the leak? Is it any good?
Anyway, I'll check all the issues you mentioned.
Thanks again.
Always start with the simples and easiest solution then work toward the harder ones~!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
You state in a later post that your oil is very dark after 1500 miles? HOw much time was that from the oil change and what kind of driving did you do? Lots of short trips?
Since you may have a lifter making noise, I would change my oil and filter at 12-1500 miles and get a couple of changes of good fresh oil in there dissolving deposites with the fresh additives.
Let us know what results you get.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I wasn't present during the second test, so can't tell, but his printout says the gaskets are leaking.
I checked the oil on the probe. It looks fine.
Also, I didn't mention it before but it seems to exhaust more smoke than normal, and during the cold days the condensate was making a whole puddle under my exhaust pipe.
So, what do you think about that sealant compound? Should I try using it, or just replace the gaskets?
Thanks.
What do you think about dealer shops, like those GM Goodwrench? I heard that they usually charge a lot? Would you recommend going to them?
Water vapor out the tailpipe isn't necessarily a bad sign at all---water is natural by-product of the combustion of gasoline. But lots of WHITE smoke, (LOTS) after the engine is warmed up, is a sure sign of coolant being burned in the combustion chambers.
But I had to add another quart of coolant yesterday after just 2 weeks and 20-30 miles of driving.
I agree with you about the right solution and a lasting repair. I don't like quick fixes as well. As I said, the problem is that it is almost impossible to find a specialist in this godforsaken town, Concord, NH (although it's a state capital). Sorry, if I offend any locals. I'll probably go to the dealership, see what they say, and then figure out where to do it.
Kevin
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Any Ideas?
Thanks
And yes, it is available, and yes it is legal to use (if you are a licensed AC shop but not if you are a consumer) and yes it is pretty expensive and yes you can convert to R134 but that's not cheap to do either.
But the dust around doors cannot be eliminated if you live in a dusty area.
HTH