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Comments
Anyway, gunk up against the oil pump would seem a very unlikely cause of spiking oil pressure. Perhaps low oil pressure, but exra high? You sound as if you take care of your car, so I can assume this was not the first oil change the car has seen since new. I am not sure of the miles, however, it would seem highly unlikely you would have accumulated that much "gunk" on a '97, even without regular service.
When my gauge began acting up, there was no rhyme nor reason. It did act up more so at first, when the oil was finally warm. I doubt that the oil gauge has anything to do with the temp gauge unless it is acting up too. Then it may a complete electrical problem in the dash unit. Doesn't sound that way.
For the cost of an oil change, and some piece of mind, you may want to try changing the oil again, however, I doubt that will cure what ails you. It suspect a sensor, or the gauge. The sensor will be relatively easy to replace, the gauge...... yuck. Good luck.
Zzahh
By the way, the Bonnie has 84k on it (mostly highway miles - I'm practicing to sell snake oil). ; )
hs
The car will start, but cuts out after about 1.5-2 minutes. It seems initially sluggish, but then comes up to normal for a while then just loses RPM and chugs to a stop. If this car had a carb, I'd swear the choke was closing off the air flow. I've checked the air filter, even removed it, and still have the same problem. Doesn't matter if it sits or if I put it in gear.
I've tried to keep the RPMs up, but the problem overcomes my efforts and kills the car.
Thanks.
Any ideas on how to minimise the wind & road noise? The seals are perfect. Just replaced the almost bald P225/60R16 Goodyear Eagle Rsa s with Michelin Pilot XGT H4s. Everything seems to be ok, except that there is more wind noise coming into the car, somehow. Dealer pretends as to everything is normal.
Any ideas to acheive a better isolation?
I'm concerned that the car won't be the same after the dealer pulls the top part of the engine apart. Also, has anyone heard of this problem with a new car? Thanks,
About 3 times before I've had my headlights get stuck on regardless of what position the light switch was in. Disconnecting the battery has always reset it before. Does this sound familiar to anyone?
If someone has experienced and or repaired this, could you describe the procedure.
They had to replace the ignition - took a week to diagnose, get the part in and repair. They say there's been a TSB out on these but I haven't been able to find reference to it. Anyway, they gave me a fully-loaded 2001 Regal GS while mine was in the shop. Not a shabby loaner! Anyway, dealership was A-1, VERY apologetic and the car has since been trouble-free (I am touching wood as I write this).
The problem you are having with your dash boards lights not working is probably because you have a defective "Headlight/Dimmer switch", which is commonly known as your headlight switch. This switch controls your Headlights, parking Lights, tail lights and dashboards lights (About 9 wires are connected to this switch)
I recently had to replace this Headlight/Dimmer switch on my 95
Bonneville SE. I was getting the same symptoms you have described. The switch cost me $ 26.00 (37.00 at a dealership) and a connector that goes onto the switch ($ 6.00) at dealer. I was able to install the part myself in about an hour. Figure about 1.5 labor at dealer.
I highly suggest/recommend that you have that look at. The reason being, when I went to replace the switch, the defective switch caused the connectors and wires to melt, which caused the connectors not to make a proper connection causing my taillights function intermittently. In addition, this could also be a fire hazard in addition to a safety
hazard.
I have filed a complaint with the NTSB. I also notice that a few other complaints were registered with the NTSB regarding this issue.
I don't know if you are aware, but there has been a safety recall
on 95 Bonneville with Twightlight Sentinel option. The option uses the same switch but with a added part. You might want to check into it.
I hope this was helpful and please let me know how you made out. I happy to share my experiences with other
GWT
Help - Car has 71,000 miles on it and in great running condition other than the above.
After two day I had owned this car, I changed the transmission oil, the engine oil and sparkplugs. Then next the day, the warning light "Check engine soon" came on after driving 10 miles. I stopped the car and I started it after one hour. The light disappeared after going few meters. However, this same failure repeated after a week again (the light disappeared after getting the 10 minutes rest to the car). My auto-mechanic recommended changing the oxygen sensor and he did so. But it did not help; the same problem repeated, so he scanned the car for errors on the computer. During this scan, the warning light was not on. The computer showed misfiring and faulty pedal positioner. The pedal positioner was changed; though, it did not help either. Next time, when the warning light came on, I drove immediately to my auto-mechanic with the light on in order to scan the computer when the light is on. It showed that the oxygen sensor is faulty. I changed the oxygen sensor again, but it did not help. The light came on every day in the morning. I stopped the car, waited 10 minutes, started the car and the light came off for the rest of the day. My auto-mechanic checked all important parts, and everything looked fain. Then he recommended changing sparkplugs and sparkplug wires for the original (AC Delco). I did it and then the problem worsened. Now, the light comes on not just in the morning (or the first time I drive the car during the day), but every time I drive the car. The scenario is that since I usually stop the car with the warning light on, the light appears immediately after I start the engine. I drive 100 meters and the light disappears. However, the light usually comes on back after 5 minutes of driving.
I set up an entire diagnosis test of the car at the dealer. I hope that they will not tell me that my oxygen sensor is faulty because it is not the primary failure; however, it is what the computer shows. Has anyone a clue what this problem could be?
I almost decided to drain and fill it up with normal p.s. fluid, when one mechanic told Me that, basically, there is no big difference on what to use for power steering, and it should not harm anything. What do you think on this?
Regards,
Ayrat
Right now, I am driving a 96 Toyota Camry XLE V-6 with 45K miles. the Camry drives very nice. the 200HP V-6 is a jewel. It does 80MPH like it is standing still.
Am I crazy for even thinking about selling the Camry and buying the Bonneville?
I would take a 2000 Bonneville over a Camry any day. I am partial to GMC cars and don't really care for Camry's, Acura's, etc..
Take that car and run...hope this helps
Thanks for responding - that was a big help. I would like to know if you had to take out the dash to replace the switch.
I found the recall notice (I do have the Twilight Sentinel option) and talked to my local dealer who said that it was not a recall but a technical service bulletin and as such I would have to pay for it. I'm gonna try the 1-800-Pontiac number and the NTSB numbers to see if I can get them to change their minds. Thanks again! MWThames
The car is great on Power and maitainance, low cost of ownership but noticed I pay more gas in a V6 from a 4 cylinder car. After the warranty was over I had to pay $900 at dealership for major oil problem with the engine. I replaced the OEM tires (Eagle GA's) with BF Goodrich Comp TA's from tirerack.com - what a big difference. The car currently still has suspension problems (lots of noises from the tie rods (replaced two months ago NEW) - this SLE has the Traction Control, and Touring/Performance Suspension option. The cars trunk also leaks water. After the rain - There is a huge puddle where the spare tire is.
I love the engine in the car and the power. I love the size and the soft leather seats. But after 50,000 miles, i still have trunk leak, tie rod noises, now body panel noises. Am I ready to sell or trade in for a realiable family car?
Nope not yet, I will use this as the family/wimter car and brought a Porsche to drive as my weekend car...
The Bonnie still has more torque and scence of
power than my Porsche. Plus will hold the family in living room leather seats.