Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Thanks, Barbara Correa, Los Angeles Daily News
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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I remember being told that it takes every 3 months to update credit reports. I don't know if it's changed recently, but you can call Equifax and find out.
I just need a few more lease numbers before I make my decision. I need the money factor and residual % for 3yr/15,000 miles for the following vehicles. Thanks again.
2003 Audi A4 3.0 with quattro
2003 Infinity G35 Sedan
Here is a repost of my earlier in the week post...
Can you please provide IFS' residual and MF for November for G35 Sedan (leather).
24, 36, 39 & 42 months
12k miles/year
also what % difference in residual for 15k miles/year
Gregg
I've obtained my payoff from the leasing dealership in Denver (GMAC apparently doesn't retain this info!) and assuming I can sell the vehicle for a bit more than the payoff amount, I could use the balance left over as a downpayment on a different vehicle.
I assume that once I locate a buyer, we would need to go to the leasing dealership together to payoff the vehicle at the quoted payoff amount, at which time the title would then be transferred to the buyer, correct?
I've researched used pricing here on Edmunds as well as Kelly and others, but I honestly don't think I'll get anywhere close to what the site quotes say it's worth.
How accurate are the figures provided by Edmunds and other sites for resale values, and where can we obtain the WHOLESALE values that most dealers tend to use, rather than the "Trade In" figures that are given. No dealer has ever offered me anything close to what Edmunds "Trade value" is...
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If you were to lease a 2003 Infiniti G35 Sedan with Leather (let me know if you want the cloth model instead) through Infiniti Financial Services this month for 3 years with 15,000 miles per, their base lease money factor and residual value should be .00240 and 57%, respectively.
Let me know if you need any other information, like the acquisition fees, or info on any other models, etc...
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For financial reasons, I'm having to scale down my car desires from BMW and Audi to Honda and Mazda. Can you provide me with the money factor and residuals for the following vehicles for 3 year/15,000 miles per year. Thanks again.
2003 Mazda 6 s Sedan
2003 Honda EX Sedan V-6
I am looking at three cars, one of which you quoted recently and two I have not seen listed yet (all 3yr/12k, and probably none subsidized)
2003 M3 Coupe (in October you said .00255 and 64% I believe?)
2003 CLK 320 (not previously listed)
2003 Infiniti G35 Coupe (this one must have been listed earlier, maybe I missed it?)
Also - general question - if the dealer quotes me a higher rate, does it generally work to just tell them you know the buy rate? The BMW guy gave me a sob story just going from 285 to 275, but from October it sounds like this still isn't his best rate?
Thanks for this thread.
It's me again... but this time no Kia as of now. I will be leaning towards a lease so I'm looking at other options...
I've been doing some serious research and my wife an I have interest in the Highlander.
Again, I live in Elizabeth, NJ and the model is the Highlander (SR5) V6 w/4WD (AWD). I got a quote of $28,450. Supposely $700 over invoice.
I'm looking at 12k for 36 and 48 months (still haven't decided).
Thanks.
Oh... if you know of any good lease deals on similar vehicles, I'd appreciate your help as well.
23 years old
only been at job for 4 months
660 credit score
I can afford the car, but didn't know if my age/credit score would require me to have a co-signer or something along those lines. Thanks in advance!
Could you provide the current residual and money factors for a Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo leased for 39 months at 12K year? A recent dealer add quotes a new 2003 that lists for $29,440 for $265 per mo. with 2003 due at signing. Knowing the above factors, I could figure out the cap cost and figure if this is a fair deal. Thanks.
My mother is currently leasing (ends 3/2003) a 2000 Taurus SE with payments of about $335 for 36 months with 15K miles a year (which I think is a rip-off). The car currently has less than 30K miles on it, and it should be at about 40K miles and is in good condition. The residual is about $8400. Last week my she received a call from the dealership that the car could be turned in early w/o any penalties if she got another Ford. I made a few calls to get comparative pricing on a 2003 Taurus SES and SEL and an Explorer XLS Sport 4X4. The SES was $302.00 and 323.00; SEL $420; and Explorer $425 and 413.00. All with no money down, just sign and drive. I'm not happy with the service she has been receiving from any of the Ford dealerships and have suggested going back to the Altima and maybe buying it or an Accord (leasing: $320, same terms, $700 at signing). My question is do you think that the car COULD be worth the trouble as far as looking into using the car as a trade-in since its so far under mileage or does the historically low resale value of Fords just delete any hope of turning this money pit upside down? And, what do you think of the quotes on the 2003s? I think they're a little high, but only because we're in the Detroit area, and A-plan (employee pricing) is generally the advertised price.
Thanks
P.S. In MI, they are giving customer $1500 returning leasee cash and 1000 lease cash for the Taurus; $1500 returning leasee cash and $1000 lease cash-Explorer; I think that might have been used to pay off the current lease for the payments over $400.
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I have not seen Mercedes-Benz Credit Corp.'s lease program in a while. I believe that they just continued their October lease program through the end of November, but I am not positive. If this is the case and you were to lease a 2003 Mercedes-Benz CLK 320 Coupe through MBCC this month for 3 years with 12,000 miles per, their base lease money factor and residual value should be .00285 and 67%, respectively.
Last but not least we have the 2003 Infiniti G35 Coupe. I have liked the way that this car looks ever since I saw it's prototype at the auto show earlier this year. If you were to lease this car through Infiniti Financial Services this month for 3 years with 12,000 miles per, their base lease money factor and residual value should be .00240 and 61%, respectively.
If I was in your situation, and the dealer that I was working with was trying to mark up a vehicle's base lease money factor I definitely would tell them that I knew that they were padding my deal. The only way to get them to calculate your monthly payment using the base money factor may be just to call them out and tell them that you know what they are doing, politely of course.
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As far as similar trucks that have more lease support available on them go, GM, Ford, and DaimlerChrysler all have similar sized SUVs that have lower lease money factors and lease cash available on them. Unfortunately, the effect of this support is somewhat lessened by the fact that these trucks' residual values are lower than the Highlanders'. The Nissan Pathfinder also has a relatively attractive lease program available on it right now.
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As far as what her next vehicle should be, I think that both the new Honda Accord and the new Nissan Altima are much much better vehicles than any of the Ford models that you mentioned. Of course, you lose out on the owner loyalty cash by not getting another Ford, but I would definitely go with the Accord or the Altima if I was in her shoes.
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I was recently quoted $400 per month plus tax for a Honda Pilot EX-L (leather but no nav. or DVD)for 48 months and 12K per year. Total inception fees: First Month payment of $424 ($400 plus tax) and $255 (DMV and dealer fees). No other money down. Lease is through Honda Finance. Can you tell me if this is a good deal? It appears to be under MSRP but I am not positive.
Thanks in advance.
I'll let you know whatever else comes up ;-)
Anyway, I'm looking to lease a new car for the first time in my life. I've been looking at the 03 Maxima SE, pretty much fully loaded around 28k MSRP, along with the 03 IS300, around 31k MSRP.
What could I possibly hope for as my lowest possible monthly payment. I'm looking to put 1500$ down, 36-39 months, 12k a year.
If I'm doing something wrong by posting this here, I apologize in advance. Thanks for any help, it is appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve
I'm trying to decide whether to lease or buy my next car (a convertible, lexus SC430 or maybe the bmw M3). I've never leased a car before, but i'm a physician and my partners keep telling me that i can deduct a significant part of the lease costs since about 50% of my miles will be going between various offices and hospitals.
I tried reading through all the information about automobile deductions on www.irs.gov. Trust me when I say that four years of medical school and seven years of training were easier than understanding current IRS regulations.
Anyone have any experience with this? Is there a significant advantage to leasing over buying, or can i use either as a deduction? I appreciate any input anyone can provide.
(Again, I apologise if this has already been discussed)
It would be much appreciated if you could tell me the residue and money factor for 2003 Civic LX Auto with 15000 miles/year and 36 months lease.
Thanks again,
Dinghui
The lease is for a Grand Cherokee Laredo 4WD. The base price is $28,015, $640 Convenience Group; $85 mats; $75 Cover-Cargo Compartment; $625 destination charge with a $500 Convenience Group discount for a total MSRP of $28,940. The $2003 due at signing includes first payment,acquisition & bank fee and security deposit. Sales tax, reg & title extra. Hope this helps.
Would you please provide the money factor and residual for a 2003 Audi A6 Avant, 36 month/15k miles per year in Pennsylvania? Thanks.
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Also, is there any room to negotiate the dealer fees of about $155?
Thanks a lot
I've noticed on a Chevy commercial of a lease on a Trailblazer LS for $364/month for 36 months with about $1200 due at signing. Of course applicable fees and tax is not included. I'm thinking it's probably the base model, which you can't tell from the commercial.
Is this what is called a subsidized lease? Anything funny about this or any gimmicks I should be aware of before I make a call to the dealer?
Thanks again.
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I don't know exactly what you mean about a dealer fee of $155, but if it is something like a doc fee or a processing fee then I suggest that you look at your deal as a whole and decide if you want to pay it. What I mean is that the out-the-door price, or the total amount of money that they are going to have to pay to drive off in the vehicle that they are interested in, is the most important number for consumers when they are shopping for a new vehicle. It does not really matter how the dealer that you are working with arrives at the out-the-door price, as long as you are happy with it. If you feel as though this particular dealership's total price is to high when you take this fee into account, shop around for a couple of other out-the-door prices and see if you can get a better total deal. Or if they say that they can't waive this fee, you can ask them to lower the price of the truck that you are getting by an equivalent amount.
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